Owned by Restaurant Industry Veterans, Senza Breaks the Rules by Having None

The Etna eatery is a unique culinary escape.
Senzamain

SENZA HAS QUICKLY GROWN INTO MANY THINGS, INCLUDING A CATERING KITCHEN. | PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

Couples Justin and Caitlin Steel and Matthew and Jessie Manowski spent a lot of time together during the pandemic.

Veterans of the service industry, the food-loving friends supported each other through service shutdowns, staff shortages and Covid protocols, all while becoming parents, sharing home-cooked meals and planning for the future as business partners.

In a way, quarantine gave birth to Senza in Etna. The name, an Italian word that means without rules or boundaries, is reflected in the ever-changing menu. In addition to good eats, ranging from seafood and steaks to apps made with seasonal fruits and veggies, there’s a small, but thoughtfully curated selection of wine, beer and cocktails.

Senzasteak

STEAK AT SENZA | PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

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Caitlin, who was a Pittsburgh Ballet Theatre company member before retiring from the stage in 2016, met Justin at Bar Marco, the Strip District joint he owns. They liken the new spot to a European cafe. And they should know; her performance career and his culinary studies took them around the world.

They collect culinary experiences like souvenirs and they’re all on display at Senza, from Korean-spiced crisp chicken and Amalfi-style scampi and shrimp risotto to carnitas and a French brie slab with seasonal jam and bread.

The spot, which opened in February as a bakeshop, has quickly grown into many things, including a catering kitchen. The Manowskis launched Mesa/Terra Catering and Private Dining when they lived in Colorado and now offer the Mediterranean-style service here in PA. Bar Marco is on both of their resumes, so there’s usually a fresh pasta dish on the menu.

Senzapasta

PASTA AT SENZA | PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

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Senza is also an event space, foodie destination and, on a monthly basis, the place to be for a Thursday night, four-course tasting menu.

No rules. No boundaries. No tips accepted.

Drop in on, say, a Saturday around 11 a.m., and you can order a braised pork shoulder and a Bloody Mary or make it a wine-and-charcuterie morning while your dining companion sips Boon Boona Coffee and downs one of chef Jessie’s pastries. For decades, her family ran Barkus Bakery, a company that operated multiple shops around Pittsburgh.

I went to Senza on a Friday afternoon with my daughter, Sarah. Typically, she’s a picky eater, but she housed a dish of burrata and heirloom tomatoes, a New York strip steak, frites, a side salad, fresh bread and then tried to go after my Tagliatelle. I kindly told her “Taglia-hell no!”

It was my last, moderately priced meal before embarking on a beach vacation, and I wanted to savor every bite.

The space has a nautical feel to it. White-washed boards cover the walls, and there are several high-backed, blue booths that look like upholstered waves. During the day, they’re bathed in sunlight pouring in through the floor-to-ceiling front windows. Feel free to pull up a stool and gaze out at bustling Butler Street.

Flowers, shelves lined with cookbooks and an array of artwork add splashes of color. Matthew, a Wisconsin native, is an artist both in and out of the kitchen.

He was also playing server that afternoon and we had a nice conversation about how vacations feed the soul.

Eating handmade noodles in a white wine sauce with kale, summer squash, hazelnuts and big dollops of chevre cheese was the perfect way to kick off my week of sunburn, sand and seafood. I paired it with an effervescent tequila cocktail and could hear the ocean calling my name. Or maybe that was the Senza burger begging me to adhere to an all-burger diet.

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I hope to return on a Thursday evening for one of those popular prix-fixe parties. The July 25 event is already sold out.

The dinner series started in March with an epicurean exploration of France’s regional cuisine. I urge you to follow their Instagram page and scroll back through the menus and drool. Seriously, you’ll need a life preserver.

Each event is priced at $99 per person and includes four courses, wine pairings, dessert and gratuity. Although the partners have grand visions, their seating is limited.

Consider it an all-inclusive vacation.

Etna: 372 Butler St. Hours are 3 to 9 p.m. Friday and 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Saturday dinner service starts July 20.

Categories: PGHeats