Getaway: Chagrin Falls, Ohio Recalls a Norman Rockwell-Colored Slice of Americana
Actor Tim Conway wrote in his 2013 autobiography that Chagrin Falls is "a dream town, a living template of mid-nineteenth century America."
“Chagrin Falls is about as picturesque a place as you can imagine,” actor Tim Conway wrote in his 2013 autobiography. “Trust me, it’s a dream town, a living template of mid-nineteenth century America.”
Who am I to argue with Tim Conway?
Incorporated as a village in 1844 (and technically a suburb of Cleveland, located just two hours from Downtown Pittsburgh), Chagrin Falls is bisected by the meandering Chagrin River, with whooshing sound effects provided by two waterfalls that flow through the heart of the historic downtown area. There’s a walkable Main Street — as any self-respecting picturesque village must have — lined with more charming shops than a Hallmark movie.
Conway, who is best known for his comedic stunts on “The Carol Burnett Show,” is not the only notable Chagrin Falls-er. There’s also Bill Watterson of “Calvin and Hobbes” fame (leading to widespread speculation that the comic is set there), 19th-century poet and suffragist Addie Ballou, Broadway stars Corey Cott and Elena Shadow, cartoonist Bela “Bill” Zaboly (“Popeye”), and former San Francisco Giants outfielder Ted Wood.
Start at Chagrin Hardware (82 N. Main St.), a family-owned store serving the village since 1857. If they don’t have it, you don’t need it. A revolving nuts-and-bolts cabinet holds everything from flag brackets and white key tags to boot cleats and corn huskers. Toy soldiers and Christmas ornaments rest side by side on countless shelves, and rakes and garden hoses line the walls. Looking for horseshoes? An “Easy Rider” movie poster with Peter Fonda and Dennis Hopper riding into the sunset? Whatever you’re looking for, it’s here.
The Evergreen Bakery is a new addition to downtown Chagrin. Specializing in naturally leavened bread, artisan pastries and local goods, this is the place for all things yeasty and sweet. We were particularly enamored with the chocolate babka loaf and the strawberry rose crostata, although the lemon sugar cookie makes a better on-the-go treat.
The Chagrin Falls Popcorn Shop is a must-see. Perched atop the river with a waterfall gushing below, the shop is a wonder of red-white-and-blue rustic charm. Popular popcorn flavors include Cleveland Art Pop, Sweet Sriracha Cheese and “Chagrin Style” (double cheese and kettle).
The Spice & Tea Exchange is a fun spot to sniff spices from around the world. If my whole house smelled like Cinnamon Chunk Korintje, I wouldn’t complain. For a morning boost, order the Victorian Chai or Ginseng Hippie at the Tea Bar. Just a few steps away is Fireside Book Shop, two floors of the best in bookish stuff. Pay special attention to the shelves of staff picks.
For a small village, the clothing stores in Chagrin Falls are high-end. Choices include A Bit of Skirt, Toni, Nola True, Haven and Blush, each with its own magazine-ready display window. But it’s the home-decor front where downtown really shines. Both Hedges and White Magnolia are heaven for homebodies who are looking to spruce up tired kitchens and dining rooms with items inspired by trips to Tuscany or Normandy. Don’t miss the back wall at Hedges, where you can choose ceramic tiles glazed with images of compasses, honeybees, lighthouses, dapper hares and even St. Nicholas.
Where to Stay
The Inn of Chagrin, just steps away from the downtown shops, scored a coup when renowned fashion designer Christian Siriano signed on to remodel the historical inn’s 15 rooms. Siriano won the fourth season of “Project Runway” in 2007, becoming the series’ youngest winner. His vision for the Inn of Chagrin combines traditional and contemporary, and his fashion-inspired artworks grace the walls in many rooms.
Where to Eat
For dinner, tuck into M Italian (mitalian.com). The lasagna — with house-made bolognese, ricotta, mozzarella and twin pomodoro and alfredo sauces — gets Nonna’s approval. For a lighter bite, try the Pasta M (cavatelli, meatball and pomodoro). The lightly crusted starter bread is baked in-house as well. You’ll want to slip an extra loaf in your pocket. After dinner, browse the adjacent Glass Asylum, where you can watch objets d’art made right before your eyes.
When to Go
I can’t imagine Chagrin Falls having a bad hair day; it’s truly spectacular in any season. I’ve been twice — in mid spring and early winter — and there are always sights to see. I plan to return in the fall, when one resident said Chagrin is “a big pumpkin and cranberry-colored party.” The village does the holidays right too. Decorated live trees line the Riverside Park Path for the season, and even the streetlight poles catch the spirit with live greenery. At midnight on New Year’s Eve, a massive popcorn ball named Jupiter drops to celebrate the new year.