Getaway: Franklin, Pennsylvania Is a River Town With Historical Grandeur
Nestled into a fork in the Allegheny River — and situated along the growing Erie to Pittsburgh trail — Franklin, Pennsylvania is soaked in history and charm.
There are so many historical churches in Franklin that you’ll hear two or three announcing each hour — chimes in every direction, politely disagreeing about the precise time.
It’s a sound that seems to echo the quiet beauty spread throughout this river town. Natural wonders are accessible via the sprawling trail network that smacks right into the city, where guests will find innumerable remnants of historical grandeur. Franklin is a town that proudly displays its charm.
Those longstanding houses of worship (including St. John’s Episcopal Church, with remarkable Tiffany windows) are far from the only notable buildings in town. In fact, Franklin was nicknamed “The Victorian City” during its late-19th-century oil boom, a reflection of the architectural richness on display throughout the town. If you follow one of the many walking tours — a must for visitors — you’ll notice dozens of remarkable homes and other buildings, relics of an era when this small town was a thriving city frequented by tycoons.
Today, several destinations draw visitors to the small downtown area along Liberty Street. Perhaps the most remarkable is DeBence Antique Music World, a one-of-a-kind museum celebrating the history of recorded sound. The guided tour of this storefront treasure trove will show guests everything from the earliest home phonographs and music boxes dating back to the early 1800s to some of the grandest calliopes and music machines ever manufactured.
Nearly all are in working order, and guests will hear dozens during the tour; some are so powerful that you’ll be surprised the walls don’t shake. Once the private collection of the late Jake and Elizabeth DeBence, there are machines here unlike any remaining in the world; according to museum staff, Dolly Parton once attempted to buy the collection for Dollywood amusement park.
Another treasure sits just a few doors down from DeBence. The longstanding Barrow-Civic Theatre, since 1993 has been home to the Franklin Civic Operetta Association and hosts events year-round. The current season includes iconic musicals such as “Jesus Christ Superstar” and “Annie” as well as newer plays; “God of Carnage,” a Tony winner from 2009, is scheduled for August. Chat with anyone in town and it seems they have a connection to the Barrow — and plenty of locals have become performers.
For many visitors, of course, Franklin is a destination for outdoor activities. The rapidly expanding bike trail that links Pittsburgh and Erie brings cyclists, hikers and joggers to town to enjoy a clear (and surprisingly flat) path through Western Pennsylvania. Outdoor Allegheny River Services — that’s OARS for short — rents canoes, kayaks, bicycles and other outdoor equipment and organizes outings and day trips. If you’re taking to the trails, don’t miss the landmark Rockland (or Woodhill) Tunnel, along the trail about 14 miles down the Allegheny; a former railroad tunnel, it’s now a spooky landmark, daring hikers and bikers to travel through near-total darkness. (Bring a flashlight.)
You can bring home some unconventional souvenirs after a trip to The Printer’s Cabinet & Curiosities, a tiny shop in the center of town specializing in … well, anything, as long as it’s appropriately aged and a little bit odd. You’re as likely to leave with a vintage hardcover as you are to spring for an antique piece of jewelry, and the offerings at the shop change on a near-daily basis. Hours are limited — check the store’s Facebook or Instagram page first — but you’re sure to find a conversation piece here.
Franklin also boasts a pair of fascinating stores tucked inside other businesses: The Underground Bookstore, a used-book shop hidden inside a law firm, and Weird Fish Records, a music shop tucked inside Iron Furnace Coffee.
There’s something to the fact that those businesses are nestled up against others; it’s a sign of community. In Franklin, everyone seems involved with everyone else. Perhaps that is what has allowed this charming town to retain its character, and its history, well into the 21st century.
Where to Stay
You’ll find a number of bed and breakfasts around town. See if one of the four bedrooms at The Witherup House is available; in addition to a comfortable room in a historical home, you’ll get as good a breakfast as you’ll find anywhere in town, made with fresh ingredients and served around the kitchen table. Some bed and breakfasts feel like hotels in cozier settings; at the Witherup House, you’ll truly feel like a family guest. There are also more traditional accommodations nearby, though not necessarily in Franklin proper; try the Cross Creek Resort in Titusville or the Foxburg Inn along the Allegheny River.
Where to Eat
You’ll find tasty pub grub at Trails to Ales — share a wood-fired pretzel or two — but the main event here, unsurprisingly, is the beer. A rotating list of IPAs and Lagers, along with seasonal selections, will please aficionados while still offering some less adventurous brews for more traditional sippers. For a filling family meal, head to Benjamin’s Roadhouse; leave room for the Lemon Italian Creme Cake. Locals recommend Leonardo’s, the longstanding pizza and pasta restaurant in the heart of Downtown. And if you can manage a 10-minute drive before you have your morning coffee, order a latte and a pastry at inviting Woods & River Coffee in nearby Oil City.
When to Go
Any season you prefer for outdoor activities is a good time to visit Franklin; while river activities are reserved for the warmer months, the trails are busy year-round. If you’d like an event to build a trip around, the annual Applefest draws crowds from far and wide; you’ll want to make your hotel reservations well in advance for a weekend that includes car cruises, live entertainment, tours of the town and plenty of apple-based delights. This year’s festival is scheduled for Oct. 4-6.