SIZZLING KEBABS FRESH OFF THE TANDOOR AT SALEM’S MARKET AND GRILL IN THE STRIP DISTRICT. | PHOTO COURTESY SALEM’S MARKET & GRILL

This article is part of a series on immigration in Pittsburgh, produced by Pittsburgh Tomorrow, a nonprofit that seeks to revitalize our region by focusing on key population-related issues. It is distributed by the Pittsburgh Media Partnership. Read more stories here.

In the heart of Pittsburgh, amid its rivers and bridges, a culinary revolution is taking place. It is a revolution of flavors and aromas, carried on the shoulders of immigrants who have brought their cherished recipes from distant lands.

What do burritos, General Tso’s chicken and pizza have in common? They are all delectable creations introduced to mainstream U.S. culture by immigrants. These intrepid individuals adapt to their new world while preserving treasured traditions, infusing time-honored recipes with locally sourced ingredients.

The city’s dining scene is having a moment, a moment of sheer deliciousness. While immigration is a contentious topic on national news, it is undeniable that immigrants consistently introduce incredible food to the United States. No longer relegated to the back alleys of the kitchen, immigrants and their foods now take center stage, with younger generations reclaiming the narrative of their heritage. Generation after generation, families pass down cherished recipes — those handed down by grandmothers and those created in their new homes.

Here are five immigrant-owned gems in the Pittsburgh culinary scene, and the courageous stories of the people behind the scenes.

CHENGDU GOURMET

Squirrel Hill: 5840 Forward Ave. | Ross: 4768 McKnight Road

Chengdu Gourmet in Squirrel Hill (with a second location in the North Hills) is more than just a restaurant. It’s a fiery journey through the flavors of Sichuan Province, masterfully crafted by Chef Wei Zhu, a native of Chengdu. Growing up, Wei experienced the contrast between his baker father’s delectable pastries and his mother’s traditional Sichuan dishes. Despite his baking heritage, he ventured into the realm of savory cuisine, eventually being nominated multiple times as a James Beard Awards semifinalist for Best Chef, Mid-Atlantic.

Wei’s American dream began in 2005 at a New York City steakhouse, where financial struggles and language barriers posed challenges. However, fate led him to Pittsburgh in 2006, capturing his heart with its lush greenery and captivating architecture. After refining his skills at China Star in McCandless, Wei opened Chengdu Gourmet in Squirrel Hill in 2014, and another location in Ross in 2022.

Prepare your taste buds for an exhilarating adventure at Chengdu Gourmet. The Sichuan peppercorns provide a unique numbing sensation, while Tianjin peppers ignite an inferno. In Chinese medicine, this combination, known as “ma la,” holds medicinal significance. The essence of Sichuan cuisine lies in the sizzling wok, where hot peppers and aromatic ingredients are expertly roasted. At Chengdu Gourmet, traditional Sichuan dishes take center stage, showcasing sautéed pork shoulder, roasted whole fish and braised beef tendon. Vegetarians will also find solace in the silky Mapo tofu, Dan Dan noodles, and an array of flavorful vegetables.

Kung Pao chicken is a crowd favorite, but don’t expect the saccharine Americanized version. Zhu’s rendition combines robust dry chilis, an abundance of garlic, tingly Sichuan peppercorns, and tender braised chicken in a flaming wok. A touch of sweetness offers a fleeting reprieve from the fiery symphony of flavors. Wei chuckles, remarking, “In Chengdu, we’d never add sugar to this. Here we just add the tiniest amount to suit American palates.” Patrons are welcome to BYOB, and Tsing Tao Beer is a popular choice, providing a cool contrast to the spicy fare.

Language barriers have been Wei’s greatest challenge, but he found solace in the universal language of food. His culinary prowess, coupled with unwavering determination, propelled him forward. “Diners don’t need to tell me in words how much they loved the food,” he says. “I see it in their faces, in their satisfied smiles.”

PITALAND

Brookline: 620 Brookline Blvd.

Pitaland, a charming family-run bakery and cafe in Brookline, exudes an irresistible old-school allure. Behind the glass facade, a colossal steel oven churns out countless loaves of pita bread, lining them up on a conveyor belt to cool. As a testament to its authenticity, Lebanese students flock here for gyro sandwiches, seeking quick fortification and the comforting taste of home. Middle Eastern families gather to share mezze platters and animated conversation.

In 1974, Youssef (Joe) and Jocelyne Chahine arrived in Pittsburgh for a romantic honeymoon, unaware of the unforeseen twist awaiting them. Their native Lebanon was engulfed in civil war, forcing them to extend their visas and seek political asylum. Joe joined his brother George at Chahine’s Bakery, where he toiled with a shovel and a small brick oven for a meager $3 per hour. Eventually, Joe bought the business from his brother, securing a small business loan and acquiring new equipment. And just like that, Pitaland was born. Starting with the humble pita bread of his childhood, Joe expanded his offerings over time. In 1990, the Chahines purchased the building that now houses Pitaland. Chahine ramped up the huge cultural shift between Pittsburgh to Lebanon with good food, flavors, and spices from his homeland. Pittsburgh gave the Chahine’s refuge, and in return, they gave the city its first authentic taste of Lebanon.

Aleen Chahine Atencio reflects on her parents’ challenging journey: “My parents faced language barriers at the start, but they quickly adapted and learned English. The Lebanese-American community in Brookline, along with the church, were their saviors. Coming full circle, in the ’80s and ’90s, our business became a haven for Middle Eastern immigrants finding their way in Pittsburgh.”

You’d be spoiled for food choices here. The tastiest way is to sample a little bit of everything. Sink your teeth into an oven-warm pita with Zaatar, briny Lebanese cheeses, glistening olives, garlicky hummus, and delicately spiced lamb. And their bestseller? “Our Spinach Pie, plump and savory, bursting with salty, crumbly feta cheese. We make and sell around 50 dozen in a single day,” says Chahine Atencio.

SALEM’S MARKET AND GRILL

Strip District: 2923 Penn Ave.

PHOTO COURTESY SALEM’S MARKET & GRILL

The vibrant, graffiti-covered exterior of Salem’s Market and Grill in the Strip District offers a glimpse into the explosion of flavors within. Divided neatly into a market and a grill, Salem’s has every Indian and Middle Eastern grocery item and specialty food imaginable — saffron tea, curry leaves, turmeric root, Indian Alphonso mangoes, and an impressive variety of olives. Once your appetite is whetted while perusing the market aisles, venture next door for a delectable meal. The long, snaking lines at Salem’s Grill are an indication of unparalleled, mouth-watering food, but fear not: Efficient service keeps things moving swiftly.

This super-casual eatery tempts with hearty Indian curries, melt-in-your-mouth kabobs, silky lentils, and a tantalizing array of Middle Eastern mezze. The halal meat served here is locally sourced and humanely processed, and the restaurant even offers halal American burgers, providing a much-needed option for those unable to enjoy this iconic cuisine. A visit here is incomplete without trying the flaky, syrup-soaked Turkish baklava, a sweet memory that lingers long after the meal is done. Just a pro tip: Don’t wear white; the juicy meats and slow-simmered curries can be delightfully messy.

“My dad left Libya in 1977 with nothing and built a community around food. I’ve always been his understudy,” says Abdullah Salem. In 1981, Masaud Salem opened a halal butcher shop in Oakland and soon began serving homemade Libyan meat curries to avoid wasting meat, cooked using a single electric stove. Today, Salem’s is a Pittsburgh institution, and Abdullah Salem is an icon within local communities. “Libyan people know each other from Texas to California to here,” he proudly shares. Beyond the Libyan community, Salem’s provides a sense of belonging for all. The grill employs workers from 16 nationalities, exemplifying their commitment to diversity. Abdullah Salem stands by his cherished motto: “Salem’s the closest thing to back home, no matter where you’re from.”

ZEN RESTAURANT AND SUSHI BAR

Verona: 2181 Hulton Road

In Pittsburgh’s dining scene, Zen stands out as an elegant yet unpretentious establishment serving wicked cocktails and fragrant Asian cuisine. Rong Zhou, known as Joe, made a daring move from Tianshui, a city in China’s Gansu province, to Pittsburgh, showcasing entrepreneurial spirit and business acumen. Joe’s journey is compelling: He arrived in the United States through investment immigration and acquired two thriving businesses he deeply resonated with — Zen in Verona, and Shanghai Tokyo in Sarver.

Joe explains the origin of his moniker: “Back in China, I worked in the import-export business for decades, trading with clients worldwide. A client from England consistently referred to me as Joe, and the nickname stuck. When I relocated to the States, I decided to adopt the name Joe.”

Zen’s expertise lies in sushi and sashimi. Every item on the sushi menu is exceptional, whether it’s the Steelers roll or the Chirashi bowl. Behind the see-through sushi counter, skilled chefs meticulously roll sushi with military precision and craft intricate avocado flowers for an artistic touch. The cuisine here exudes approachability, offering a blend of Chinese, Japanese, and a smattering of Thai dishes, easily customizable to your preferences. Kickstart your evening with a potent cocktail or a glass of sake while indulging in Shanghai Spring Rolls or Tuna Tataki. As for main courses, the Seafood Hot Pot — a theatrical and delectable Chinese tradition — is a standout. Notably, one stool at the corner of the bar remains permanently reserved for a loyal customer who frequents the place, savoring his plate of noodles and a stiff drink throughout the week. This tribute speaks volumes about the delicious food and welcoming atmosphere Zen provides, emphasizing the value the management places on their customers.

Joe’s love for his restaurants, his customers, and Pittsburgh shines through, but he acknowledges the challenges of business immigration. “The documentation — there’s an endless mountain of it. On the bright side, we mastered the language, and my family has adapted well. While I was concerned about uprooting my kids during their adolescent and teenage years, they’re thriving here. So far, so good.”

PARIS 66 BISTRO

Shadyside: 6018 Centre Ave.

“America is my country and Paris is my hometown,” said American novelist Gertrude Stein, who migrated from Pennsylvania to the enchanting City of Light.

Frederic Rongier, the visionary behind Pittsburgh’s Paris 66 Cafe and Gaby Et Jules Patisserie, understands the immigrant’s dilemma of straddling two worlds only too well. With Paris Cafe 66, he flawlessly blended the best of both, gracing Pittsburgh with a touch of je ne sais quoi.

Step inside this Shadyside haven adorned with vintage charm, French signage, and the melodic croon of Edith Piaf. Rongier’s lifelong dream materialized in the form of a French crêperie. The significance behind the name “66” runs deep — it symbolizes the birth year of both Fred and his wife, Lori, and pays homage to Route 66, an emblem of the American Dream. With a grin, Fred quips, “It’s the road from Paris to Pittsburgh.”

The tantalizing aroma permeating Paris Cafe 66 evokes warm butter, fragrant herbs, and the promise of a good time. Delight in exquisite crepes, homemade quiches, flaky salmon croissants, perfectly cooked filet mignon, and herbaceous salads — all crafted with exceptional skill. The secret? Time-honored family recipes passed down through generations, infused with boundless love. Although the local produce may differ, the spirit of Paris 66 prevails — using hyper-local, fresh ingredients with a touch of simple French flair. Oui, oui!

In 2009, a dilapidated building at 6018 Center Ave. ignited a dream: a French bistro. Against all odds, amid skeptics and skeptical lenders, Paris 66 emerged after nine months of fervent construction. Initially focusing on crepes and desserts, customer requests for protein led to selling Fred’s car to afford a crucial kitchen essential — a range hood. Within six months, a full-fledged bistro menu materialized. Paris 66 quickly became a romantic destination, where celebrations of birthdays, anniversaries, and the occasional heartfelt proposal unfolded.

However, success didn’t come without hardships. “To support my family, I worked in car dealerships until 2017. Immigration brings its share of challenges — mocked accents, calls to ‘go back home.’ Adaptation is essential when building a new life in a foreign land.”

Aakanksha Agarwal, now a resident of Pittsburgh, is a wine, travel, and lifestyle writer from India. Formerly a Bollywood stylist, she now embraces writing full time while juggling family life and indulging in her passions for cuisine, literature and wanderlust.