The North Hills Are Alive With New Restaurants
From burgers and beer to dim sum and Italian dishes, our food editor explores the area she calls home.
The North Hills dining scene is growing, so it’s a glorious — and somewhat dangerous — time to be a food editor who lives in West View.
In the past few years, I’ve welcomed new neighbors such as Severina Restaurant and Bar and BullDawg’s, a burger joint overlooking Martorelli Stadium, watched my childhood Pizza Hut become a delicious Pakistani establishment called Kabab King and squealed with delight when
James Beard-nominated Chef Wei Zhu opened Chengdu Gourmet 2 on McKnight Road.
The Baranowski family, owners of local favorite North Park Lounge, recently opened several new establishments in the area, including Barry’s Pub, Shooters Golf and Chillin’ Drive Thru.
Meanwhile, the Makripodis clan’s sixth Mike & Tony’s Gyros location is doing gangbusters in the former Kretzler’s Restaurant space on Babcock Boulevard. After a 90-year-absence, there’s finally a two-story, 9,000-square-foot Primanti Bros. — the granddaddy of yinzer chains — in McIntyre Square.
Across the vast parking lot from “The House That Slaw Built” is Wei Lai Dim Sum, a business that brings handmade Cantonese dim sum and Taiwanese noodle dishes along with soups, dumplings, bao and desserts to the shopping center. The name means “future” in Chinese, and I can see myself eating there often.
There’s ample seating in the non-descript dining room, but who needs eye-catching decor when the food is so beautiful. I was in a hurry so I ordered takeout at the kiosk.
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In about 10 minutes, an employee brought out my food in a reusable tote that is nicer than some purses I’ve owned. Inside my new Wei Lai-branded handbag was steamed crystal shrimp dumplings (there are five in an order, but they’re so good you won’t want to share), seaweed salad and a generous portion of Dan Dan Noodles in a peanut and sesame paste with dried shrimp, chili oil, soy sauce, brown vinegar and scallions. It was a spicy, flavorful, filling and affordably priced meal.
If you’re in the mood for pho on the go, sisters Kellie and Tuyen Truong, owners of Lawrenceville’s Bahn Mi & Ti, opened Little Viet Kitchen in Pine Creek Plaza. The takeout spot also offers bahn mi sandwiches, rice and vermicelli bowls, bubble tea and Vietnamese coffee.
I’ve been chowing down at that McCandless shopping center for decades.
My early movie-going experiences either started or ended with a meal at J. Clark’s, a restaurant located across the street from Showcase Cinemas North. The theater’s been shuttered since 2015, but it’s nice to know I can still grab a bite at a familiar spot that’s completely different.
Before reopening under new ownership in August 2022, J. Clark’s lost the “J” and found a treasure trove of cool decor.
Martin Potoczny of TWIN PINE, a vintage store with locations in Wexford and Sewickley, styled the neighborhood joint with a collection of interesting pieces, from an authentic scoreboard in the alcove to a neon martini behind the host stand to the lighting pendants placed throughout the space.
Everything, including the floorboards salvaged from an old shipyard, has a story behind it; take a seat and Clark’s General Manager Cory Alexander will share ‘em. Getting the beloved bar and grill into shipshape took more than a year.
The grand opening was originally scheduled for March 15, 2020, the start of the statewide pandemic shutdown. Thankfully, the owners were buoyed by their other business, the riverfront restaurant Redfin Blues on Washington’s Landing that has an abundance of outside seating (and is conveniently located near Pittsburgh Magazine’s offices!).
During the Covid downtime, the Clark’s crew gutted the building down to the studs, reversed the layout and installed new equipment before adding antique touches. There are modern touches, too, including a massive video wall in the bar area that’s stocked with a bevy of Pennsylvania-made booze and rare bourbons.
Clark’s drink-slingers can whip up classic, hot, smoked or specialty cocktails. The Clark’s crew also overhauled the menu, filling it with scratch-made sandwiches, flatbreads, entrees and appetizers. As a kid, I would’ve loved popping fried pickle chips, cheesesteak egg rolls and Cajun Ahi tuna bites before watching “Bill & Ted’s Excellent Adventure” on the silver screen. (air guitar)
The corned beef Reuben was delicious, as were the accompanying shoestring fries. On a separate visit, I ordered the Pittsburgh Salad, because, even on a diet, I couldn’t get enough of those fries!
I’m happy to report that you can still get J. Clark’s original recipe French onion soup. I recently slurped down a bowl before watching a film at the Cinemark North Hills and XD, a newish cineplex in McCandless Crossing. It doesn’t have the same sticky floor-charm as Showcase, but my full belly didn’t know the difference.
Talk about a Hollywood ending.
Speaking of Tinsel Town, Coughlin’s Law Kitchen & Brew Pub is now open at Mount Nebo Pointe. The enormous restaurant and its original location on Mount Washington are named after Doug Coughlin, a character played by Bryan Brown in the movie “Cocktail.” The veteran mixologist regularly drops pearls of wisdom, or Coughlin’s laws, on his protege, who is portrayed by Tom Cruise in his ‘80s heyday.
In the flick, the pair juggle booze bottles like circus performers, but there is no flair bartending at Coughlin’s Law. But, you will find great cocktails, 40 taps and chef Jim Lengyel’s fun and inventive food menu that includes the vaunted Chipotle Peach & Bacon Burger. Served in a smoke-filled glass cloche that seals in all the ooey-gooey goodness, this thing is so decadent, it should be against the law, Coughlin’s or otherwise.
Not only does the North Hills location have a pizza oven and indoor and outdoor seating for 265, it has a brewing license, too. After unexpectedly losing Necromancer Brewing Co. in February, the northern suburbs needs a new suds factory — or two. Vandergrift-based Allusion Brewing Co. debuts its new digs in Duncan Manor Plaza on April 13.
Look for Coughlin’s Law beers by headbrewer Caio Albuquerque in the next few months at both sites and at other watering holes around town.
As Doug Coughlin once said, “Beer is for breakfast around here, drink or be gone!”
I’m looking forward to the opening of Iron & Basil, a new venture from fellow West View dwellers Katie and Terry Malsch.
Since last summer, the couple’s been remodeling the DiPietro’s Ristorante at the corner of Perry Highway and Center Avenue. Taking over a beloved landmark isn’t something they take lightly.
The Malschs aren’t new to the restaurant game; they’re co-owners of Bigham Tavern, a Mount Washington spot that’s expanding to Bridgewater in Beaver County soon. When they were looking to get a foothold in the North Hills, they nearly bought the shuttered Rum Runners Saloon on Babcock, but the deal fell through due to the pandemic. It’s now a Dive Bar & Grille.
Katie’s a 20-year veteran of the service industry and Terry, a general contractor by trade, is using his hands-on experience to bring a 45-year-old Italian eatery into the 21st century.
He tore down a few walls along with the drop ceiling, exposing the beams and opening up the space that is being designed to look like an Italian piazza, complete with string lights and greenery.
The food will match the decor. The Malschs got all of DiPietro’s recipes and will continue serving pizza, hoagies and the best-selling pasta dishes as weekly specials. They’ll also add new items, including steaks and seafood.
“It’ll be a little slice of Italy in the Iron City,” Katie says.
The bar will be its own entity with a separate entrance on Perry Highway. It’ll feature a draft system with local beers and wine on tap, a cooler stocked with six-packs and a small cocktail menu.
I cannot wait to walk there for a Negroni.