PHOTO COURTESY OF RAYMOND MIKESELL

Chef Raymond Mikesell called me last night from Middle-of-Nowhere, Montana to talk about a restaurant he’s opening — or, in this case, reopening — in the South Hills of Pittsburgh.

“It’s a cool spot,” he says. “It’s a perfect, little, local joint. It reminds me of how I started when I only had 24 seats. I just want to cook for people. My passion is making people happy through food.”

CHEF RAYMOND MIKESELL | PHOTO COURTESY OF RAYMOND MIKESELL

Mikesell, who, until recently, ran Café Raymond in the Strip District, is the new owner of Wild Rosemary, a popular, 12-seat restaurant in Upper St. Clair that closed several months ago. Founded by friends Gloria Fortunato, Cathleen Enders and Lynne Bielewicz, the tiny, BYOB bistro at 1469 Bower Hill Road will open for lunch and dinner service in June. Look for updates on social media.

Since its inception, the eatery has sent local foodies clamoring to snag a table. Custom benches are being installed to bump up the capacity to 25-27 patrons. Reservations will not be accepted. Seating will be on a first-come, first-served basis.

Mikesell, a North Side native who owns property in Big Sky Country, wants guests to feel like they’re stepping into his home for a family-style, Italian meal. It’s the kind of warm and inviting vibe he created during five-course, Sunday suppers at Café Raymond, typically a breakfast, lunch and brunch spot. These events sold out in minutes and drew more than 100 diners to the Penn Avenue space.

Mikesell will continue to use locally sourced, seasonal ingredients to create an ever-evolving menu inspired by his travels abroad and recipes passed down through generations of his Irish-Italian family. He’ll continue to support local farmers and patronize the Pennsylvania Macaroni Co., a Strip District landmark that he calls “a gift from the food gods.”

Expect rustic dishes such as pot roast braised in figs and red wine, arancini and freshly baked bread. Before opening Café Raymond 16 years ago, Mikesell spent a decade managing Maryland’s Stone Mill Bakery, which provided breads and pastries to more than 250 restaurants and hotels daily.

Post-pandemic labor shortages compelled him to hang up his apron.

After George Ettstaller and Adriana Stacy took over Café Raymond earlier this year, Mikesell was ready to do some fly fishing in Montana and, perhaps, open a small restaurant there. But, every time he returned to Pittsburgh and drove by the shuttered Wild Rosemary, he felt compelled to resurrect the place. He looked up the property owner and wrote them a letter. Three weeks later he got an email back and started a new chapter in his career.

“I’ve been doing this all my life,” Mikesell says. “Now, instead of me cooking Sunday supper on a mass scale, it will be for individual tables. I have that little sparkle in my eye again.”