A WATERFALL VIEW FROM THE MAIN STREET BRIDGE | PHOTO BY HUCK BEARD

“Chagrin Falls is about as picturesque a place as you can imagine,” actor Tim Conway wrote in his 2013 autobiography. “Trust me, it’s a dream town, a living template of mid-nineteenth century America.”

Who am I to argue with Tim Conway?

Incorporated as a village in 1844 (and technically a suburb of Cleveland, located just two hours from Downtown Pittsburgh), Chagrin Falls is bisected by the meandering Chagrin River, with whooshing sound effects provided by two waterfalls that flow through the heart of the historic downtown area. There’s a walkable Main Street — as any self-respecting picturesque village must have — lined with more charming shops than a Hallmark movie.

Conway, who is best known for his comedic stunts on “The Carol Burnett Show,” is not the only notable Chagrin Falls-er. There’s also Bill Watterson of “Calvin and Hobbes” fame (leading to widespread speculation that the comic is set there), 19th-century poet and suffragist Addie Ballou, Broadway stars Corey Cott and Elena Shadow, cartoonist Bela “Bill” Zaboly (“Popeye”), and former San Francisco Giants outfielder Ted Wood.

Start at Chagrin Hardware (82 N. Main St.), a family-owned store serving the village since 1857. If they don’t have it, you don’t need it. A revolving nuts-and-bolts cabinet holds everything from flag brackets and white key tags to boot cleats and corn huskers. Toy soldiers and Christmas ornaments rest side by side on countless shelves, and rakes and garden hoses line the walls. Looking for horseshoes? An “Easy Rider” movie poster with Peter Fonda and Dennis Hopper riding into the sunset? Whatever you’re looking for, it’s here.

EVERGREEN BAKERY | PHOTO BY HUCK BEARD

The Evergreen Bakery is a new addition to downtown Chagrin. Specializing in naturally leavened bread, artisan pastries and local goods, this is the place for all things yeasty and sweet. We were particularly enamored with the chocolate babka loaf and the strawberry rose crostata, although the lemon sugar cookie makes a better on-the-go treat.

The Chagrin Falls Popcorn Shop is a must-see. Perched atop the river with a waterfall gushing below, the shop is a wonder of red-white-and-blue rustic charm. Popular popcorn flavors include Cleveland Art Pop, Sweet Sriracha Cheese and “Chagrin Style” (double cheese and kettle).

The Spice & Tea Exchange is a fun spot to sniff spices from around the world. If my whole house smelled like Cinnamon Chunk Korintje, I wouldn’t complain. For a morning boost, order the Victorian Chai or Ginseng Hippie at the Tea Bar. Just a few steps away is Fireside Book Shop, two floors of the best in bookish stuff. Pay special attention to the shelves of staff picks.

HEDGES HOME-DECOR SHOP | PHOTO BY HUCK BEARD

For a small village, the clothing stores in Chagrin Falls are high-end. Choices include A Bit of Skirt, Toni, Nola True, Haven and Blush, each with its own magazine-ready display window. But it’s the home-decor front where downtown really shines. Both Hedges and White Magnolia are heaven for homebodies who are looking to spruce up tired kitchens and dining rooms with items inspired by trips to Tuscany or Normandy. Don’t miss the back wall at Hedges, where you can choose ceramic tiles glazed with images of compasses, honeybees, lighthouses, dapper hares and even St. Nicholas.

Where to Stay

The Inn of Chagrin, just steps away from the downtown shops, scored a coup when renowned fashion designer Christian Siriano signed on to remodel the historical inn’s 15 rooms. Siriano won the fourth season of “Project Runway” in 2007, becoming the series’ youngest winner. His vision for the Inn of Chagrin combines traditional and contemporary, and his fashion-inspired artworks grace the walls in many rooms.

Where to Eat

For dinner, tuck into M Italian (mitalian.com). The lasagna — with house-made bolognese, ricotta, mozzarella and twin pomodoro and alfredo sauces — gets Nonna’s approval. For a lighter bite, try the Pasta M (cavatelli, meatball and pomodoro). The lightly crusted starter bread is baked in-house as well. You’ll want to slip an extra loaf in your pocket. After dinner, browse the adjacent Glass Asylum, where you can watch objets d’art made right before your eyes.

THE GLASS ASYLUM | PHOTO BY HUCK BEARD

When to Go

I can’t imagine Chagrin Falls having a bad hair day; it’s truly spectacular in any season. I’ve been twice — in mid spring and early winter — and there are always sights to see. I plan to return in the fall, when one resident said Chagrin is “a big pumpkin and cranberry-colored party.” The village does the holidays right too. Decorated live trees line the Riverside Park Path for the season, and even the streetlight poles catch the spirit with live greenery. At midnight on New Year’s Eve, a massive popcorn ball named Jupiter drops to celebrate the new year.

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

If you’ve got TSA PreCheck and you’re heading to Pittsburgh International Airport for a predawn flight, there’s a new place to go to pass through security starting on July 8.

From 4 to 7 a.m., head to the alternate checkpoint on the airport’s ticketing level. That will be the only TSA PreCheck area available at those times.

After 7 a.m. Monday-Friday and on weekends, TSA PreCheck will be available at the main security checkpoint and the alternate location, according to a TSA announcement. 

The change comes during the busiest summer the airport has experienced since 2019, which has resulted in longer than usual lines. Airport and TSA officials had each urged travelers earlier this week to arrive at the airport 3 hours early if they had an early flight.    

“The move will expedite the screening process, maximize space, and minimize line wait times for all travelers at both checkpoints,” TSA stated in its announcement about the change. 

TSA officials said they had experimented using the alternative checkpoint on the ticketing level over the past month and decided it would improve the flow of passengers.

The alternate checkpoint may reopen during the day on an as-needed basis, dependent on passenger volume to serve both TSA PreCheck and non-TSA PreCheck passengers, the TSA stated. 

PreCheck program travelers have an expedited screening and don’t have to remove their shoes, laptops or liquids, for example, to put in a separate bin. CLEAR, another pre-screening program, is only available at the main security checkpoint. CLEAR passengers with TSA PreCheck benefits should still use the CLEAR lane at the main security checkpoint.

On June 21, the airport announced that May 24 — the Friday before Memorial Day weekend — had been a record-breaking travel day nationally and locally.

TSA had screened more than 2.95 million travelers at airports nationwide, setting a new single-day record for the agency previously set during the Thanksgiving holiday in 2023.

That same day, PIT screened 18,255 departing passengers, the most daily passengers recorded at the airport since 2019.

Between Thursday, July 4, and Monday, July 8, TSA estimates that more than 32 million travelers will be screened on holiday weekend flights. That could mean a 5.4% increase from the holiday traffic last year. 

PIT offers an app that can provide helpful information to travelers even before they leave home. It tells you how long you have to wait in each security line, how many open parking spaces there are in each lot, what flights are on time and delayed and other information. 

Jilian Musser’s reporting is supported by the Pittsburgh Media Partnership.

SALT LAKE CITY | SHUTTERSTOCK

Starting this fall, Pittsburghers once again will be able to fly nonstop daily to Salt Lake City.

Delta Airlines announced Friday that it is restoring the flight that it ended in early 2020 because of the pandemic. No other airline has been flying nonstop between Pittsburgh International Airport and the Utah capital.

The first nonstop Delta flights will begin on Nov. 23, just in time for the Thanksgiving holiday and winter ski season. The outbound flight departs PIT at 5:40 p.m. and arrives at Salt Lake City at 8:12 p.m. local time. The return flight departs SLC at 11 a.m. and arrives at PIT at 4:39 p.m. local time.

Tickets for these flights go on sale at Delta.com beginning June 22. Salt Lake City is one of Delta’s largest hubs, linking to 90 destinations, including the West Coast, Mexico, Western Canada, Hawaii and Alaska.

This latest announcement builds on nonstop flights from here to the West Coast. PIT began flights to San Diego on Breeze Airways in May and Southwest Airlines earlier in June.

COOPERS ROCK STATE FOREST IN WEST VIRGINIA | PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

I visited Morgantown, West Virginia, home to one of the nation’s top party schools, on St. Patrick’s Day. Everyone must’ve shamrocked a little too hard the night before because the place was eerily quiet. I’m a 45-year-old University of Pittsburgh alum, so spending a lowkey Sunday on High Street was fine with me.

Perhaps the silence had something to do with the fact that a statue of Deputy Barney Fife keeps watch over the business district. The bumbling law enforcement officer from “The Andy Griffith Show” was played by Morgantown native Don Knotts, a 1948 graduate of West Virginia University.

In addition to the bronze Barney outside of The Metropolitan Theatre, a venue that’s celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, the city honored its favorite son by naming one of its major roads Don Knotts Boulevard. I couldn’t help but whistle “The Andy Griffith Show” theme song from the 1960s sitcom as I cruised down the boulevard looking for a place to eat.

A STATUE OF MORGANTOWN NATIVE DON KNOTTS, WHO PLAYED DEPUTY BARNEY FIFE IN “THE ANDY GRIFFITH SHOW” | PHOTO BY KRISTY GRAVER

My culinary journey through Morgantown started with advice from Matt Welsch, a Marshall County native who owns Vagabond Kitchen in Wheeling and is executive chef for West Virginia’s state park system. The Mountain State’s motorcycle-riding culinary ambassador — he’s known online as The Vagabond Chef — recommended I visit Table 9, Morgantown’s first gastropub. It sits on the banks of the Monongahela River. Even if you can’t snag an outdoor seat, the building is mostly glass, so every spot has a spectacular view. It’s a great place to kick off your visit because it feels like the town’s unofficial visitor’s center. It’s also where I discovered Devils on Horseback — bacon-wrapped dates with pepper jam. They’re sinfully good.

Work off those calories by taking a walk on the Caperton Rail-Trail, a 5.7-mile asphalt path that parallels the Mon River with shops and eateries along the way. Get even deeper into nature by heading 13 miles outside of the city to Coopers Rock State Forest in Bruceton Mills. While you’re exploring 50 miles of hiking and biking trails, stop and take selfies at scenic overlooks, historical sites and Messinger Lake. If you want to cast a line, you’ll need to purchase a current West Virginia fishing license. Bonus points if you catch “The Incredible Mr. Limpet.” (Don Knotts made a splash as a talking fish in this 1964 Warner Bros. comedy.)

Did you know West Virginia is a hotbed of cryptid activity? From Sasquatch and Mothman to Snarly Yow and the Grafton Monster, these creatures aren’t just part of the state’s folklore, many locals have claimed to have encountered them.

“Some say the location itself invites strangeness,” says Matt Tolliver, who, in addition to owning Tolliver Counseling and Consulting Services, runs Cryptid Mountain Miniature Golf. “It may be because of the remoteness of the state, specifically the heavily wooded Monongahela National Forest where creatures like Bigfoot could lurk about unbothered.”

Tolliver grew up in French Creek hearing stories about the legendary beasts. In August, he opened his putt-putt business, a 13-hole, family-friendly, ADA-compliant, indoor mini golf course with blacklights, video and audio systems and a cryptid at each fairway. Even if your short-game is horrific, this is a fun place to spend an afternoon. It’s like Noah’s Ark at Kennywood — if Noah was a cryptozoologist.

Sheepsquatch, a bipedal creature purported to have white fur, horns and an appetite for farm animals, is Tolliver’s favorite cryptid because it’s the one that would terrify him the most if he came face to snout with it.

Believers say its existence is due to a chemical mutation caused by an old TNT factory. Others chalk it up to stories brought to West Virginia by Irish immigrants. For the record, I did not see any leprechauns or other mythological creatures during my visit. However, as I headed home on Interstate 79 I passed The Blues Brothers in their 1974 Dodge Monaco police car. Forget cryptids, perhaps Jake and Elwood have joined forces with the ghost of Barney Fife!

Where To Stay

Morgantown is 75 miles from Pittsburgh, so it’s close enough for a day trip, but if you want to truly experience wild, wonderful West Virginia (and commune with cryptids), go camping! Coopers Rock has a primitive campground and an RV campground that open the first weekend in April. If your idea of “roughing it” includes indoor plumbing, Wi-Fi, a hot tub and local pizza delivery, Mountain Creek Cabins is a family-owned retreat with eight luxury log abodes. Sadly, there is no statue dedicated to Ralph Furley, the loveable landlord Don Knotts played in ‘70s sitcom “Three’s Company.” 

Where to Eat

In addition to your trip to Table 9, you should indulge in a hand-cut fry plate and a gourmet sandwich at Von Blaze and be sure to track down Hill & Hollow, a free-range kitchen and catering business offering farm-to-fork Appalachian eats. For a fine dining experience, Marilyn’s of Morgantown specializes in scratch-made foods with Italian influences.

When to Go

Weather permitting, campsites at Coopers Rock State Forest open the first week of April and close during the winter months. That’s the best time to experience the wilds of West Virginia, which locals and license plates refer to as “Almost Heaven.”  Morgantown also has a Primanti’s Bros. restaurant selling “Almost Famous” sandwiches year-round — in case yinz guys get homesick.

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

Just in time for summer, air travelers in Pittsburgh will have a new ultra low-cost option to fly to Houston when Spirit Airlines introduces daily nonstop flights to that southeast Texas city on June 5.

Spirit will fly into the largest of Houston’s two airports — George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH). 

This will be the third airline flying to H-Town from Pittsburgh. United Airlines operates three daily flights to Bush Intercontinental and Southwest Airlines provides daily nonstops to Houston’s other airport, William P. Hobby Airport (HOU) from PIT. 

Related: New Non-Stop Destinations Abound At Pittsburgh International Airport

Houston is among three new routes that Spirit is launching this summer. Spirit is also starting daily, seasonal service to New York-LaGuardia May 8 and will launch daily flights to Boston also on June 5. 

These and other additional flights are helping to boost overall passenger traffic at Pittsburgh International Airport. Total passengers at PIT so far this year are up 8.1%, surpassing 2 million passengers during the first quarter for the first time since 2019 — the year before the pandemic ground travel to a halt.

THE VENANGO COUNTY COURTHOUSE, ERECTED 1868

There are so many historical churches in Franklin that you’ll hear two or three announcing each hour — chimes in every direction, politely disagreeing about the precise time.

It’s a sound that seems to echo the quiet beauty spread throughout this river town. Natural wonders are accessible via the sprawling trail network that smacks right into the city, where guests will find innumerable remnants of historical grandeur. Franklin is a town that proudly displays its charm.

Those longstanding houses of worship (including St. John’s Episcopal Church, with remarkable Tiffany windows) are far from the only notable buildings in town. In fact, Franklin was nicknamed “The Victorian City” during its late-19th-century oil boom, a reflection of the architectural richness on display throughout the town. If you follow one of the many walking tours — a must for visitors — you’ll notice dozens of remarkable homes and other buildings, relics of an era when this small town was a thriving city frequented by tycoons.

Today, several destinations draw visitors to the small downtown area along Liberty Street. Perhaps the most remarkable is DeBence Antique Music World, a one-of-a-kind museum celebrating the history of recorded sound. The guided tour of this storefront treasure trove will show guests everything from the earliest home phonographs and music boxes dating back to the early 1800s to some of the grandest calliopes and music machines ever manufactured.

ANTIQUE MUSIC MACHINE FROM DEBENCE ANTIQUE MUSIC WORLD.

Nearly all are in working order, and guests will hear dozens during the tour; some are so powerful that you’ll be surprised the walls don’t shake. Once the private collection of the late Jake and Elizabeth DeBence, there are machines here unlike any remaining in the world; according to museum staff, Dolly Parton once attempted to buy the collection for Dollywood amusement park.

Another treasure sits just a few doors down from DeBence. The longstanding Barrow-Civic Theatre, since 1993 has been home to the Franklin Civic Operetta Association and hosts events year-round. The current season includes iconic musicals such as “Jesus Christ Superstar” and “Annie” as well as newer plays; “God of Carnage,” a Tony winner from 2009, is scheduled for August. Chat with anyone in town and it seems they have a connection to the Barrow — and plenty of locals have become performers.

THE BARROW-CIVIC THEATRE

For many visitors, of course, Franklin is a destination for outdoor activities. The rapidly expanding bike trail that links Pittsburgh and Erie brings cyclists, hikers and joggers to town to enjoy a clear (and surprisingly flat) path through Western Pennsylvania. Outdoor Allegheny River Services — that’s OARS for short — rents canoes, kayaks, bicycles and other outdoor equipment and organizes outings and day trips. If you’re taking to the trails, don’t miss the landmark Rockland (or Woodhill) Tunnel, along the trail about 14 miles down the Allegheny; a former railroad tunnel, it’s now a spooky landmark, daring hikers and bikers to travel through near-total darkness. (Bring a flashlight.)

You can bring home some unconventional souvenirs after a trip to The Printer’s Cabinet & Curiosities, a tiny shop in the center of town specializing in … well, anything, as long as it’s appropriately aged and a little bit odd. You’re as likely to leave with a vintage hardcover as you are to spring for an antique piece of jewelry, and the offerings at the shop change on a near-daily basis. Hours are limited — check the store’s Facebook or Instagram page first — but you’re sure to find a conversation piece here.

THE PRINTER’S CABINET & CURIOSITIES

Franklin also boasts a pair of fascinating stores tucked inside other businesses: The Underground Bookstore, a used-book shop hidden inside a law firm, and Weird Fish Records, a music shop tucked inside Iron Furnace Coffee.

THE UNDERGROUND BOOKSTORE

There’s something to the fact that those businesses are nestled up against others; it’s a sign of community. In Franklin, everyone seems involved with everyone else. Perhaps that is what has allowed this charming town to retain its character, and its history, well into the 21st century.

Where to Stay

You’ll find a number of bed and breakfasts around town. See if one of the four bedrooms at The Witherup House is available; in addition to a comfortable room in a historical home, you’ll get as good a breakfast as you’ll find anywhere in town, made with fresh ingredients and served around the kitchen table. Some bed and breakfasts feel like hotels in cozier settings; at the Witherup House, you’ll truly feel like a family guest. There are also more traditional accommodations nearby, though not necessarily in Franklin proper; try the Cross Creek Resort in Titusville or the Foxburg Inn along the Allegheny River.

Where to Eat

You’ll find tasty pub grub at Trails to Ales — share a wood-fired pretzel or two — but the main event here, unsurprisingly, is the beer. A rotating list of IPAs and Lagers, along with seasonal selections, will please aficionados while still offering some less adventurous brews for more traditional sippers. For a filling family meal, head to Benjamin’s Roadhouse; leave room for the Lemon Italian Creme Cake. Locals recommend Leonardo’s, the longstanding pizza and pasta restaurant in the heart of Downtown. And if you can manage a 10-minute drive before you have your morning coffee, order a latte and a pastry at inviting Woods & River Coffee in nearby Oil City.

When to Go

Any season you prefer for outdoor activities is a good time to visit Franklin; while river activities are reserved for the warmer months, the trails are busy year-round. If you’d like an event to build a trip around, the annual Applefest draws crowds from far and wide; you’ll want to make your hotel reservations well in advance for a weekend that includes car cruises, live entertainment, tours of the town and plenty of apple-based delights. This year’s festival is scheduled for Oct. 4-6.

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

Start packing your bags because Pittsburgh International Airport is continuing to add and resume nonstop flights to help with your spring and summer travels. 

Low-cost Spirit Airlines announced it is beginning new daily flights from PIT to Boston Logan International on June 5, according to Blue Sky News, the news service for the Allegheny County Airport Authority. The flights will leave Pittsburgh at 4:56 p.m. and arrive in Boston at 6:34 p.m. Your return flights will leave Boston at 2:25 p.m. and arrive in Pittsburgh at 4:06 p.m.

Delta Air Lines and JetBlue already fly that route to Boston. 

With this announcement, Spirit now serves 11 nonstop destinations from PIT. On May 8, Spirit begins daily, seasonal nonstop flights to New York-LaGuardia, supplementing its existing service to Newark International Airport.

In late March, Spirit resumed its seasonal, nonstop service to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, and recently increased capacity to Orlando, Florida. 

Coming May 16, low-cost Frontier Airlines will begin two nonstop flights a day to Philadelphia. This is part of an expansion by Frontier that also includes service to Atlanta, Dallas-Fort Worth and Raleigh-Durham.

Related: Want to Fly to Houston? Now There’s a Cheap Flight

Later that month on May 24, low-cost Sun Country Airlines resumes its seasonal service between PIT and Minneapolis/St. Paul with flights twice a week; in June these increase to four flights a week. 

For international flights, British Airways is increasing flights to London Heathrow to six times a week beginning April 1. Air Canada will resume daily nonstop flights to Montreal on May 1.

On May 16, Icelandair kicks off its new, seasonal, four-times-a-week service to Keflavik International Airport in Iceland, about an hour outside of its capital Reykjavik. Make sure to monitor the activity in southern Iceland of a series of volcano eruptions that began in December in the Reykjanes Peninsula and has caused disruptions at some of the popular tourist attractions, like its geothermal spa, Blue Lagoon, according to The New York Times.  

If you’re more interested in visiting the West Coast, Breeze Airways will start seasonal flights twice a week to San Diego on May 3. Southwest on June 8 will start nonstop seasonal weekend flights to this southern California city.

Alaska Airlines will increase its nonstop Pittsburgh-Seattle service with a second daily flight resuming May 16. United Airlines will add a third daily flight to Denver on May 23. 

PHOTO COURTESY SHUTTERSTOCK

Whether you’re a visitor to the city or a longtime resident planning a staycation, Pittsburgh has a plethora of hotel options to choose from — all of them luxurious. Besides their convenient locations near some of the city’s best amenities, including museums, stadiums, restaurants and concert halls, these boutique hotels also boast top-of-the-line services alongside acclaimed eateries; if you just decide to stay in, we don’t blame you. 

Which accommodations are right for you? Read on for a closer look at some of our favorite bougie boutique hotels. 

(We independently review everything we recommend. When you buy through our links, we may earn a commission.)  

PHOTOS COURTESY KIMPTON HOTEL MONACO PITTSBURGH

Hotel Monaco
Once the home of Reed Smith law firm, Kimpton Hotel Monaco in Downtown’s Golden Triangle is noted for its Beaux Arts-style architecture. Full of whimsical touches, such as the hotel’s signature birdcages, the rooms are equally beautiful. Be sure to check out the cozy “living room,” where you can sip your wine in the evening (or coffee and tea in the morning) and try one of the luxe board-game sets. Most rooms are pet friendly; all contain an in-room yoga mat and offer 24-hour room service, including an all-night menu of selections from The Commoner. In the warmer months, the rooftop beer garden is a great place to grab a cocktail. You can also revive the lost art of letter writing with the quaint postcard station in the living room; the hotel staff will take care of the postage. 

Book Here

PHOTO COURTESY FAIRMONT PITTSBURGH

Fairmont Pittsburgh
Set in a striking LEED Gold-certified tower in the heart of Downtown, Fairmont Pittsburgh is convenient to Market Square and the city’s Cultural District. Because guest accommodations start on the 14th floor, each of the hotel’s 185 contemporary hotel rooms and suites offer sweeping views of Downtown from its floor-to-ceiling windows. Adding to the luxury feel are lush beds, large desks and spacious bathrooms with a separate shower and soaking tub, plus an in-room refreshment center. Get your endorphins flowing — or relax — in the hotel’s sleek Health Club & Spa, where you can experience a session in a dry cedar sauna or eucalyptus steam room. Among the spa’s offerings are customized massages and facials. For dinner, head to the hotel’s acclaimed Fl.2 restaurant, where you can grab a fresh, locally sourced meal in a luxury setting. 

Book Here

PHOTOS COURTESY THE OAKLANDER

The Oaklander Hotel
A Marriott Autograph Collection Hotel, The Oaklander Hotel in Oakland offers a rich cultural experience thanks to its proximity to the University of Pittsburgh and Carnegie Mellon University. The complex that houses the Carnegie Museums of Art and Natural History, the main branch of the Carnegie Library and the Carnegie Music Hall of Oakland are also all within a 5-minute walk, as are Soldiers and Sailors Memorial Hall and the Cathedral of Learning. Then again, you might just want to stay in. The thoughtfully designed rooms each feature 100% Turkish cotton bedding, bath linens and robes, accompanied by luxury bath amenities. As for the in-house eatery, Spirits & Tales is a reimagined French brasserie with innovative updates to classic fare. 

Book Here

The Industrialist Hotel
Built in 1902 and standing 18 stories high, The Arrott Building on Wood Street, Downtown, was once a testament to the extravagance of its day and its owner — the Bathtub King of Pittsburgh, James Arrott, owner of the American Standard company. Today part of HRI Properties and Marriott International’s Autograph Collection, the building houses The Industrialist Hotel, which is named in honor of Arrott — as well as the other early entrepreneurs who shaped Pittsburgh. Strikingly, the Beaux Arts-style building’s original elements, such as Italian marble, mosaic tiles and crown molding remain; they now blend seamlessly with the hotel’s modern art. Guests may also enjoy The Rebel Room, a bar-centric American restaurant, and the Lobby Lounge, which offers cocktails, small bites and a lineup of complimentary DIY projects from the pet-friendly hotel’s signature Maker Menu.

Book Here 

 

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TRYP by Wyndham Pittsburgh/Lawrenceville
Set in the historical Washington Education Center building at the base of the 40th Street Bridge, TRYP Pittsburgh | Lawrenceville is centered in one of Pittsburgh’s trendiest neighborhoods, Lawrenceville. The 108-room hotel also is home to two restaurants; the street-level Brick Shop is a seasonal contemporary restaurant, with flavors rooted in Central and Eastern Europe, while the rooftop bar Over Eden has views of Pittsburgh’s Downtown and the Allegheny River that are just as fresh as the food offerings. Each floor of the hotel features local art installations and works that reflect the trade taught when the building was an education center. If you’re looking for things to do in the neighborhood, we recommend a visit to Lawrenceville’s iconic Row House Cinema, the historical Allegheny Cemetery and restaurants such as the acclaimed Pusadee’s Garden.   

Book Here 

More Hotels We Love

Joinery Hotel Pittsburgh
Part of Hilton’s Curio Collection, the Gothic Revival-style building constructed in 1924 once housed the Salvation Army of Western Pennsylvania.
453 Blvd. of the Allies, Downtown
Book Here 

Drury Plaza Hotel Pittsburgh
This historical renovation of the Federal Reserve Building offers free soda, popcorn and dinner from 5:30 to 7 p.m., among other amenities.
745 Grant St., Downtown
Book Here

EVEN Hotel Pittsburgh
Fitness and health are important at EVEN. The IHG hotel has in-room fitness areas and healthy grab-and-go meals.
425 Forbes Ave., Downtown
Book Here 

Hotel Indigo Pittsburgh — East Liberty
The modern but comfortable and pet-friendly hotel offers easy access to shopping, dining and entertainment in one of Pittsburgh’s busiest neighborhoods.
123 N. Highland Ave., East Liberty
Book Here 

Hotel Indigo Pittsburgh — Technology Center
Take in views of the Monongahela River from Hotel Indigo’s rooftop bar, plus everything on East Carson Street and beyond.
329 Technology Drive, South Oakland
Book Here

Omni William Penn Hotel
Large, centrally located and elegant, the Pittsburgh institution — opened in 1916 — provides traditional afternoon tea service, currency exchange and dry cleaning and is pet-friendly.
530 William Penn Place, Downtown
Book Here 

Renaissance Pittsburgh
A luxury Downtown hotel in the heart of the Cultural District and close to PNC Park. Braddock’s Rebellion and Braddock’s Side Street Grill are in-house dining options.
107 Sixth St., Downtown
Book Here 

The Westin Pittsburgh
The pet-friendly, conveniently located hotel Downtown is adjacent to the David L. Lawrence Convention Center.
1000 Penn Ave, Downtown
Book Here

PHOTO: VISIT ERIE

Beaches, trails and family fun. Many will make for the coast to enjoy this kind of getaway, but there’s a vibrant destination two hours north of Pittsburgh. Erie, Pennsylvania, nestles into our neighboring Great Lake and offers plenty of opportunities for those looking for a nature-focused getaway.

And thanks to a nearly complete trail network, cyclists can make the majority of the trip under their own power. Read on for updates about that trail system, a pontoon-boat tour of Presque Isle, ideas for families and more — including a once-in-a-lifetime astrological event.

The Ultimate Sunblock

This April, Erie will be at the center of the universe as it falls in the path of a rare total solar eclipse.

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

This year, April 8 will be the biggest day on the calendar for the city of Erie. That’s when the next total solar eclipse – known as the Great North American Eclipse — will pass through the United States in a 125-mile-wide band, moving directly over Lake Erie near Presque Isle State Park. Day will turn to night there at 3:16 that afternoon — for 3 minutes and 41 seconds — the longest period of totality in Pennsylvania.

Continue reading here.

Water Play

With water, water everywhere, Erie provides plenty of activities for kids to enjoy.

PHOTO: VISIT ERIE

If you’re looking to take the family on a beach vacation that doesn’t start and end with a full day in the car, Erie is the perfect destination.

Continue reading here.

Lagoon by Pontoon

Since 1985, the state has offered free public tours of Presque Isle State Park’s bays and interior ponds.

PHOTO BY VIRGINIA LINN

Temperatures peaked at a perfect 78 degrees under clear skies last August as we motored into Graveyard Pond to begin our pontoon boat tour of Misery Bay and the interior lagoons of Presque Isle State Park.

Continue reading here.

Mile by Mile

With a grand vision, dogged persistence and grit, volunteer groups and nonprofits are working to fill in the remaining gaps of the 270-mile Erie to Pittsburgh trail — and hoping to bring it to completion in five years.

PHOTO BY RICHARD COOK

Bill Weller doesn’t break a sweat. He’s biking 40 miles on the Allegheny River Trail, the pristine path he watches over like a protective parent.

Continue reading here.

PHOTO BY RICHARD COOK

Bill Weller doesn’t break a sweat. He’s biking 40 miles on the Allegheny River Trail, the pristine path he watches over like a protective parent.

Most days, the lean 69-year-old can be found chain-sawing downed trees on the trail. Or digging out ditches clogged with leaves or debris. Or taking 56-mile rides in Venango County from Franklin south to Emlenton and back, with a side trail thrown in.

BILL WELLER

So on this sunny day, it’s an easy ride as he cruises down the paved trail along the banks of the Allegheny River, glistening with the reflections of the foliage that covers the surrounding foothills. Then he stops at a large railroad marker, 1½ miles south of Franklin.

“It’s 122 miles to Pittsburgh,” says Weller, president of the Allegheny Valley Trails Association.

Most people zoom down Interstate 79 from Erie to Pittsburgh in the car. But Weller is not most people. He hopes to someday bike the 270-mile Erie to Pittsburgh Trail — once it’s completed.

Up and down the state, on trails in cities and remote forests and farmland, volunteers like Weller and community leaders are trying to fill in gaps of that trail, now 70% complete. With the biggest gaps near the two bookend cities, the planned path veers north from the Bayfront in Erie to the southwestern corner of Chautauqua County in New York then winds south through Erie, Crawford, Venango, Clarion, Armstrong, Butler and Allegheny counties in Pennsylvania until it reaches its end at Point State Park. A completed trail would link at the Point to the Great Allegheny Passage and the C&O Towpath, allowing a cyclist to bike all the way from Erie to Washington, D.C. — a continuous 610-mile trek.

Related: Escape to Erie for a Nature-Focused Getaway

The 30.5-mile Allegheny River Trail, one of the longest completed sections, provides spectacular views and access to historical landmarks along the way. With its embrace of ecotourism, Franklin — a former industrial town and county seat of Venango County — has transformed into an official trail town, pumping up its economy.

Near Franklin, signposts in the ground point out landmarks such as Indian God Rock, etched with 50 Native American carvings, and the striking Belmar Bridge, built in 1907 as part of a railroad funded by local oil men Charles Miller and John D. Rockefeller. On a recent day, Weller and Matt Lehman, a retired surgeon and trail association vice president, replaced 24 wooden planks on the bridge.

PHOTO BY RICHARD COOK

There’s even a signpost commemorating John Wilkes Booth, whose failed stint as an oilman here preceded his notoriety as a presidential assassin.

At around mile 14, in the village of Sunny Slope, a house blocks the trail. Riders have to turn left onto North Kent Road, a rocky, hilly path that the trail group made passable using a grant. Weller hopes to secure a second grant to pave the section, but he and Lohman zip up the three- quarters of a mile bumpy detour like it’s nothing.

After that, a pair of spooky adventures awaits — the 3,350-foot long Kennerdell Tunnel followed by the 2,860-foot Rockland Tunnel. Both are pitch black inside, requiring a bright bike light. Weller warns about a sharp curve to the left at the end.

“There’s no light at the end of the tunnel,” Weller says grinning.

He relies on volunteers for repairs. “They’re tough,” says Kim Harris, secretary of the Erie to Pittsburgh Trail Alliance.

The Starting Line

Franklin is also where the idea of the trail began. Jim Holden — computer science professor at Clarion University and beef farmer — and fellow Clarion professor David Howes both wanted a safe place to bike. Penn Central had abandoned its line there. The power company that bought the tracks donated 14 miles of land to the trail.

“If you build it, they will come,” Holden would say of starting his own trail of dreams.

PHOTO BY RICHARD COOK

Not everyone was sold at first. “I can remember when he first started talking about how trails were going to bring people here — I can’t say they laughed at him, but it was a roll-their-eyes type of thing,” Harris says.

Holden enlisted the help of Weller, a fellow runner and cyclist who operated a tire business in town. Weller knew everyone and could round up volunteers and allay fears — fears that outsiders would invade their bucolic space.

After all, people often move out to small towns to get away from it all. Some of them didn’t want a stinkin’ bike trail abutting their property. What if the cyclists trespassed, even stole things?

Weller would just look at them and say, “Can you imagine the guy on a bicycle with a refrigerator in one hand and the TV in the other, riding on the bike trail?” Despite the ridiculousness of the scenario, he understood the initial resistance to change.

They also touted the health benefits and economic development that would come from trail tourism, helping Franklin, population 6,031, rebound after most heavy manufacturing left town.

Starting in the late 1990s, the trail was built, 5 miles at a time. Once they started walking and biking on it, some of the fiercest critics became volunteers. Once they completed the rail-to-trail path from Franklin to Emlenton, and a beautiful and remote 12-mile offshoot called the Sandy Creek Trail, they thought they were done.

But then Holden figured, why not extend the trail north to Erie and south to Pittsburgh? He never saw that dream come to life; he died at age 73 in 2013.

His memory lives on in Trails to Ales Brewery on the main drag of Franklin. His original bike — an orange Jamis touring bike — is displayed on a shelf above the bar. The brewery, which gets heavy bike traffic in the summer, sells a beer called Holden’s Dream. Five percent of the proceeds from that signature brew benefit the trail.

The goal is “90 by 90” — or 90% of the trail done by 2029, which would have been Jim Holden’s 90th birthday.

Hitting Hurdles

But creating a continuous bike path connecting 38 communities is slow going — like trying to finish a jigsaw puzzle with pieces missing. A beautiful paved or crushed limestone trail comes to an abrupt stop, only to be blocked by obstinate homeowners, a reluctant railroad owner, a geographical blockade. Harris says there is not one single community against the trail, just individual property owners.

“If one guy owns 10 feet of railroad grade, and he says ‘no,’ you are stuck,” Weller says. “So you wait it out.”

As Ron Steffey, former executive director of the Allegheny Valley Land Trust put it, “You do it 1 foot at a time.”

Some 40 miles south of Franklin, Steffey helped build the Armstrong Trails, the 30-mile paved path that runs along the Allegheny River from East Brady through Kittanning to Ford City. The opening of another 10-mile extension from Crooked Creek to Schenley in Armstrong County is slated for April 1.

A former coal miner, Steffey turned to biking after he was injured in a work accident. “I went from coal miner to trail advocate to trail builder to trail consultant and haven’t regretted it,” he says. “It saved me physically, mentally, spiritually.”

But his quest to build the trails faced fierce backlash.

Bikes were buried in the dirt and hung on nooses, dangling ominously from trees, Steffey recalls. Landowners also blocked the trail with fences, gates, barbed wire and logs, any barricade they could find to make a cyclist retreat.

But the biggest obstacle was a 16-year lawsuit. Conrail had stopped running its rail line in Armstrong County, and the land trust bought the land for $250,000. Landowners sued Conrail and the trust, saying the trail had no right to property abutting theirs. Appeals dragged on until the Pennsylvania Supreme Court ruled in 2009 that Conrail had the right to cede the right-of-way to the bike trail organization with the use of the railbanking statutes.

Once they got the green light, Steffey and other volunteers came with tractors and backhoes and built part of the Armstrong Trails and a picturesque offshoot, the 41-mile Redbank Valley Trails, themselves. “It’s heavy labor, but it beats coal mining,” he says. “At least you get to see the sunlight.”

The paved trail that runs through Ford City showcases old industrial landmarks like Pittsburgh Plate and Glass Ford City Works, started by town namesake John B. Ford, one of the founders of the glass company that would become PPG. It also runs through downtown Kittanning, passing trailers with large decks summering along the riverfront, before opening up to river views.

People who once put gates down to block cyclists are clearing trees to let them ride through.

Unfailing Persistence

Farther south in Allegheny County, the trail stops in Harrison Township as it butts up against an active railroad, Norfolk Southern. The Three Rivers Heritage Trail is pushing to extend another 26 miles northward from Millvale to Freeport. While the trail is not fully connected in Allegheny County, more than half of the 26-mile extension is under development, and various smaller segments are completed in Etna, Aspinwall, Blawnox, Brackenridge and Harrison.

“There’s concerns with how close we can get to their tracks,” says Courtney Mahronich Vita,  director of trail development and government relations for Friends of the Riverfront, based in Etna.

Connor Spielmaker, spokesman for Norfolk Southern, says the railroad is not opposed to a bike trail per se, but the company needs enough room from the center of the track to operate and maintain the railroad safely. He says there is enough room along certain segments but not others.

The obstacles may look intractable, but trail builders push through with unfailing persistence. It took more than 20 years, for example, to finish one crucial segment of the Great Allegheny Passage — the concrete trail along the edge of Sandcastle Waterpark in West Homestead, says Darla Cravotta, director of community relations and special projects for Allegheny County. The owners of the water park finally granted an easement.

That never-give-up attitude that completed the GAP trail can be applied to Erie to Pittsburgh.

Says Cravotta: “You have to keep your head down and just keep working toward the solution.”

Cristina Rouvalis is a frequent contributor to Pittsburgh Magazine. Her articles have appeared in publications such as Hemispheres, Esquire.com, PARADE, Smithsonian.com, Parents and AARP the Magazine. She is the co-author of “Snoopers & Sneakers,” a middle-grade novel that will be published next year. When she is not typing with one of her two cats on her lap, she can be found biking on the Great Allegheny Passage.

THE STATE’S FREE PONTOON RIDE LAUNCHES FROM GRAVEYARD POND. | PHOTOS BY VIRGINIA LINN

Temperatures peaked at a perfect 78 degrees under clear skies last August as we motored into Graveyard Pond to begin our pontoon boat tour of Misery Bay and the interior lagoons of Presque Isle State Park.

You really can’t get a better deal than this — it’s a free 45-minute tour, staffed by volunteers with the Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural Resources. Operated since 1985, the tours typically run from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

Related: Escape to Erie for a Nature-Focused Getaway

Our guide, Paul Weiser, is one of the longest-serving among about 375 volunteers who help support operations in Presque Isle — the most visited state park in Pennsylvania. Presque Isle offers a recreational utopia for beachgoers, swimmers, boaters, paddleboarders, kayakers, anglers, hikers, birdwatchers, cyclists, kite-flyers, in-line skaters and more. It celebrates its 103rd birthday as a state park on May 27.

KAYAKERS AND PADDLEBOARDERS EXPLORE PRESQUE ISLE’S INNER PONDS AND LAGOONS.

Brian Gula, DCNR environmental education specialist, says the state uses the pontoon tours as a tool to showcase all the work that’s been done to preserve the area’s wetlands, and also to focus on the wildlife. “The great thing for the public,” he says, “is that they get to see [the wildlife] so close off that pontoon boat.”

GUIDE PAUL WEISER HOLDS UP A BEAVER PELT.

During our trip, Weiser handed out binoculars and passed around various turtle shells, a hefty beaver pelt and photos of the birds and wildlife that we might see.

In Graveyard Pond, we saw map, blanding and painted turtles sunning themselves on logs, which the DCNR anchored in the middle of the pond for optimal visibility. The turtles love to sunbathe, Weiser says, because they are cold-blooded and it helps warm them. (They hibernate in the mud in the winter.)

Then we navigated under a bridge into Misery Bay, with the 101-foot Perry Monument on Crystal Point rising to our right. The monument honors American naval Commander Oliver Hazard Perry, whose fleet of 11 ships defeated the British in the Battle of Lake Erie on Sept. 10, 1813, at Put-in-Bay, near Sandusky, Ohio.

Six of 11 of the vessels were built in the Presque Isle bay — at the time named Little Bay — where the shores and waters of the peninsula protected them during construction, according to the DCNR. After the battle, the fleet returned to Little Bay to repair the ships and seek medical treatment for the wounded. Conditions became so harsh during the following winters that many of Perry’s crew died and, according to legend, were buried in Graveyard Pond (hence the name). To mark those hardships, Little Bay was renamed Misery Bay.

THE PERRY MONUMENT

It might be surprising to learn that the 3,200-acre Presque Isle is a shifting sand spit that is always eroding. Historical records show that it became an island in Lake Erie five times when the strip connecting it to the mainland eroded away; the longest period as an island lasted from 1835 to 1866, Gula says.

Over the years, the Army Corps of Engineers and other agencies have made many improvements to help stabilize the peninsula. The waters were not always as pristine as they are today; the U.S. Department of State under the Great Lakes Water Quality Agreement designated Presque Isle Bay an Area of Concern in 1991 because of years of pollution. The 25-square-mile bay watershed had been contaminated with excessive nutrients, organic compounds and heavy metals from discharges of wastewater from industrial plants and municipal sources.

After much cleanup and once new environmental regulations were put into place, the area was delisted as an Area of Concern in 2013, but it’s still closely monitored by the state Department of Environmental Protection, with federal support.

The latter part of our pontoon tour moved into the interior lagoons and ponds, flush with lily pads and native flowers, such as the pink swamp smartweed. Even though I have visited Presque Isle many times, I had never seen the interior ponds, which give visitors a different view from the paved path along the peninsula’s perimeter.

LAGOONS ON PRESQUE ISLE

If the water level is high enough, the boat can venture into Long Pond, which is more than a ½-mile from the pontoon dock. There you’ll see a steady stream of paddle boarders and kayakers exploring the coves.

Gula says that the interior waterways were reopened only recently after the state rid them of two invasive species from Europe — large reed grasses called phragmites and narrow-leaf cattails — that had completely consumed the inner channels. “There’s a lot more open water compared to 15 years ago,” he says.

Ospreys returned to the area about five years ago, and there are beavers, coyotes and river otters, says Weiser.

The open water is “one of the reasons the public are now seeing osprey nests and other species, more wading birds and other wildlife activity,” Gula says. “An osprey cannot hunt in a wetland that is consumed by a plant like phragmites because it’s so dense.”

As a National Natural Landmark — a program administered by the National Park Service — Presque Isle also is a waystation for migrating birds.

Of the pontoon tours, Gula says: “It’s a great way for us to get our mission across, which is to protect and conserve the natural resources for all future generations to enjoy.”

Know Before You Go

• The pontoon boats, which seat 16 people, launch from a covered pavilion with seating next to the private Presque Isle Boat Rental. After you pass the Perry Monument, the road to the launch is on the left side of Thompson Drive. Signups are 15 minutes before the tour, first come first served, although visitors should arrive early to secure a spot. There are no advance registrations.
• As Memorial Day approaches, check the Presque Isle State Park calendar of events for the summer pontoon schedule. For questions, call 814-833-7424.

PHOTO: VISIT ERIE

If you’re looking to take the family on a beach vacation that doesn’t start and end with a full day in the car, Erie is the perfect destination.

Presque Isle State Park has numerous beaches with kid-friendly amenities over seven miles. Beaches 7 and 11 are adjacent to playground equipment, and Beach 11 also has the most shallow water and is regarded as the best beach for young children. Beaches 6 and 8 offer concessions, or you can always stop at Sara’s for a famous hot dog as you head out at the end of your day. Beach 6 also boasts eight sand volleyball courts.

Keep in mind the sand in Erie is rocky, lake sand, not smooth ocean sand, so kids may want to wear water shoes rather than go barefoot.

Related: Escape to Erie for a Nature-Focused Getaway

Pirate Adventures

2 State St. | scallywagspirateadventures.com

PHOTO BY HUCK BEARD

The word “pirate” may conjure up images of swashbuckling characters on Caribbean waters, but the Great Lakes have a long and storied history with buccaneers terrorizing boats on their waters. At Scallywags Pirate Adventures, themed cruises play up on that history — no real cannons involved.

Located at Dobbins Landing on Presque Isle Bay, Scallywags runs tours for guests of all ages. Their 90-minute Pirate Adventure Show is perfect for families with children — even teens and tweens are enticed by the nautical antics. Costumed characters begin weaving their tale dockside before boarding their pirate ship to hit the open lake. The cast enlists families to help retrieve a treasure map taken by Captain Skull, who is determined to avoid capture. Sea shanties, face painting, treasure chests, and an epic water cannon battle with a rival boat mean this 90-minute tour is nonstop entertainment for families.

Scallywags also hosts evening Wobbly Pirate cruises for guests 21 and over to “party like a pirate” with a cash bar, DJ and more as the ship rounds the bay.

Water World

200 Peninsula Drive | waldameer.com

PHOTO COURTESY WALDAMEER

Erie’s beaches aren’t the only outdoor water play in town. Don’t miss the 32 slides at Water World, located within the Waldameer Park amusement park at the entrance to Presque Isle. Beyond their impressive collection of water slides, there is an endless river, wave pool, two oversized family hot tubs, a water play area for the tiniest guests and a massive water-soaked playground called “The Battle of Lake Erie,” which is themed around the War of 1812.

For Pittsburghers who love Sandcastle, Water World will be a guaranteed hit. The two water parks share common features like the wave pools, children’s splash areas and endless rivers. Compared to Sandcastle’s 16 water slides, though, there are more options at Waldameer Park. One slide, the Rocket Blast, which opened last summer, is reminiscent of Kennywood’s now-defunct Log Jammer. Riders traverse twists and turns throughout the park in an inflatable rubber flume before finishing with a 60-foot drop — making it the largest ride in Water World.

Because Water World is adjacent to Waldameer Park, guests can move from one area to the other, and no wristband is needed to visit the amusement park. Water World does require an all-day wristband. Both sections of the park are cashless but Wally Cards can be loaded at stations throughout the park.

Splash Lagoon

8091 Peach St. | splashlagoon.com

PHOTO COURTESY SPLASH LAGOON

No matter the weather outside, Splash Lagoon Indoor Water Park on Peach Street is a tropical oasis for kids and adults alike. Opened in 2003, the expansive destination (which regularly attracts more than 300,000 visitors per year) features nine water slides, a variety of pools, a multi-level, interactive tree house, a ropes course and an arcade with more than 100 games.

There’s also the 200,000-gallon Wild Waters Wave Pool and a FlowRider Surf Machine, where participants can ride waves (overseen by a lifeguard) without the fear of shark bites.

For those in search of adult time, there are cocktails and mocktails aplenty at the Surf Bar, plus a grownups-only hot tub behind the family-friendly Lava Pool. Guests may also grab a raft and relax on the circular Lazy River (watch out for the waterfall above!) or rent a private cabana.

There’s no need to leave the Polynesian-themed atmosphere (perpetually kept at a balmy 84 degrees) for lunch either. Besides the Laguna Grill on the lower level of the attraction, the facility is connected to a Quaker Steak & Lube restaurant. For dessert, check out Treasure Island Ice Cream Parlor.

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

This year, April 8 will be the biggest day on the calendar for the city of Erie.

That’s when the next total solar eclipse — known as the Great North American Eclipse — will pass through the United States in a 125-mile-wide band, moving directly over Lake Erie near Presque Isle State Park. Day will turn to night there at 3:16 that afternoon — for 3 minutes and 41 seconds — the longest period of totality in Pennsylvania.

It’s such a rare event that Erie officials have been planning for what they’re calling, “The Ultimate Sunblock,” for almost two years.

The Flagship City expects between 65,000 to 250,000 people will visit to view the eclipse, says Christine Temple, director of communications for VisitErie. That estimate comes from GreatAmericanEclipse.com, which uses advanced mapping software, U.S. Census data and a road network model to determine how many people are likely to journey there.

Related: Escape to Erie for a Nature-Focused Getaway

“We are the major city that’s closest to Pittsburgh, D.C., Baltimore and Philly,” she says. Erie is 6 hours from D.C. and 7 hours from Philly.

Most of Erie’s hotel rooms have been booked for months. (Fortunately, Downtown Pittsburgh is about a two-hour drive from Erie so folks can go up and back in one day if they like.)

In Pittsburgh, we’ll see a partial solar eclipse — though a more extensive occlusion than the eclipse in 2017, when thousands of Pittsburghers spilled out of office buildings, university classrooms, homes and shopping centers mid-afternoon to view the phenomena. That year the eclipse covered 81% of the sun here (totality was in Kentucky); this year it will be 97%.

“In math, 97 is close to 100,” says Amanda Iwaniec, director of theater experiences at Carnegie Science Center. “But with an eclipse — no. Totality is totality.”

Pittsburgh will be cast in shadow, not darkness like Erie, she says. But she didn’t want to downplay the Steel City’s experience. “We’re still going to see a pretty amazing thing.”

The next total solar eclipse in this area won’t arrive until 2144 — for our great-grandchildren — so if you want to see the total show, Erie is the place to be. And Cleveland, too, which also will experience totality (3 minutes earlier than Erie) as the celestial wonder moves diagonally across the United States from Texas to Maine.

Erie tourist officials are urging visitors to stay away from Presque Isle State Park; there’s only one road in and out and traffic is likely to be horrendous. Ideal viewing places will be Liberty Park, a large grassy area on Presque Isle Bay in the city’s Bayfront District, as well as Shades Beach, east of the city, and Freeport Beach.

Still, because the sun will be high in the sky and above the treeline at 3:16 p.m., people will be able to see the eclipse from just about anywhere in Erie.

What Erie can’t control is the weather. Historical data shows that April 8 has a 60% chance of cloud cover, Temple says. “Let’s be real. We’re Erie, we’re not the Sunshine State.”

The sky still will turn to a deep twilight during the eclipse whether it’s cloudy or sunny, she says.

A planning committee has put together a website that lists everything viewers need to know.

Also, the American Astronomical Society has compiled a list of certified suppliers of safe solar filters or glasses. People can damage their eyes if they look directly at the sun during an eclipse. The society strongly recommends not going to Amazon or similar sites because there is no way to validate those glasses are safe.

If people do plan to journey to Erie, Iwaniec of the Carnegie Science Center says the most important thing is to map out when and where to go.

“It’s important to make a plan,” she says. “This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.”

PHOTO COURTESY SHUTTERSTOCK

Spring is in the air — and if love is, too, a weekend getaway is never a bad idea. 

Here are a few of our suggestions on where to go for a romantic escape; best of all, they’re each within a 3-hour drive of Pittsburgh.  

(We independently review everything we recommend. When you buy through our links, we may earn a commission.)

PHOTO COURTESY VRBO

This Place Rocks, Erie
The three-bedroom cottage on Lake Erie features a one-of-a-kind patio carved into a bluff looking over the water. Oh, and did we mention the property is adjacent to a scenic waterfall? Of note, the cottage sits about 20 feet above Lake Erie. While that makes for incredible views, there is no fence or railing along the rock wall or bluff. Guests may access the water by carefully climbing down the natural rocks at the waterfall. The property also is close to Erie County’s numerous wineries and about 15 minutes from the natural wonders of Presque Isle State Park, where there’s a slew of recreational trails and beaches. Don’t forget to check out the Presque Isle Lighthouse. Built in the 1870s, the lighthouse still serves as a navigational beacon for passing ships.

Price: $305 average per night. Book now

PHOTOS COURTESY KIMPTON HOTEL MONACO PITTSBURGH

Kimpton Hotel Monaco, Pittsburgh
Be a tourist in your own hometown with a stay at the ultra-chic Kimpton Hotel Monaco. Located in Downtown’s Golden Triangle, the Beaux Arts-style building is within walking distance of noted cultural landmarks, among them the Benedum Center and Heinz Hall. Outfitted with luxury Frette linen, each hotel room comes with its own yoga mat, plus morning coffee and tea service. Guests may also order in-room spa services or join in the evening wine hour in the hotel’s elegant lobby. Grab dinner at The Commoner, the hotel’s American tavern-style restaurant or, in the warmer month, enjoy a drink on the open-air rooftop Biergarten. The hotel also is known for its playful, bold design, including its signature golden birdcage chandeliers. 

Price: Prices start at $169 for a standard room. Book now

PHOTO COURTESY OF GETAWAY

Getaway, Beaver Creek Ohio
Leave the rest of the world behind with a stay at one of Getaway Beaver Creek’s tiny cabins in Lisbon, Ohio. Located less than an hour from Pittsburgh, Getaway’s cabins, designed as “mindful escapes,” offer an unplugged experience set among 59-wooded acres. Be warned, there is no TV and no Wi-Fi; those hoping to stay off their phones may also use a wooden lockbox specifically for cell phones. Elegantly minimalist, each cabin comes with a mini-kitchen, bathroom and a private outdoor area with a fire pit and seating. There also are provisions and analog activities such as basic games and classic novels, plus a deck of cards and a complimentary s’mores pack. “The Journal” on the Getaway website offers insights on what to pack, campfire recipes, how to prepare for a disconnected getaway and what to do around Beaver Creek.  

Price: Rates vary by location, seasonality and availability; current winter rates start at $99 per night. Book now

PHOTO COURTESY VRBO

Luxury Treehouse, Ohiopyle
Unwind in the adult version of a treehouse. Located about an hour from Pittsburgh in Ohiopyle, the Luxury Treehouse features three covered patios surrounded by hardwoods and ferns. Guests may enjoy a morning hike on the cabin’s mile-long, private hiking trail that winds through a clear mountain stream, a rock garden boulder field and canopies of mountain laurels. Venture to nearby Ohiopyle State Park, or take a tour of architect Frank Lloyd Wright’s iconic Fallingwater. The cabin is also minutes from another Wright masterpiece, Kentuck Knob, as well as the Laurel Caverns and Lady Luck Casino. At the end of the day, relax in the treehouse’s hot tub. Worth noting: no pets are allowed at the cabin. 

Price: $350 per night. Book now

PHOTO COURTESY VRBO

Waterfront Log Cabin, Cherry Springs
You’ll see stars, literally, with a stay at the Waterfront Log Cabin in Cherry Springs. About a 3-hour drive from Pittsburgh, the tranquil log cabin is close to Cherry Spring State Park, a “dark sky” park renowned for its stargazing that has 10,000 stars visible to the naked eye on a given night. In particular, the park’s hilltop Astronomy Observation Field has a spectacular panoramic view of the Milky Way. Those wishing for a guided experience may also pre-register for official park events. Other nearby attractions include Rainbow Paradise Trout Farm, the Pa Grand Canyon, Kinzua Bridge Skywalk and Austin Dam. 

Price: $368 average per night. Book now

PHOTO BY RICHARD COOK

Since 2019, finding a direct flight from Pittsburgh to San Diego was impossible. By next spring, travelers will have two airlines offering the service.

Breeze Airlines announced Tuesday that it will begin twice-a-week service to the popular California destination. Service begins on May 3 and will be available on Mondays and Fridays.

“San Diego is one of the U.S.’s most popular summer destinations with great food, beautiful beaches and popular family attractions,” said Breeze Airways’ President Tom Doxey in a statement.

Last fall, Southwest Airlines announced it was launching a once-a-week seasonal nonstop flight between the two cities, beginning June 8.

Both airlines are offering the nonstop service to San Diego in the summer months only, at least for the time being.

CLEAR PLUS PROVIDES SPECIAL PODS TO EITHER CHECK FINGERPRINTS OR IRIS SCANS TO SPEED ACCESS THROUGH SECURITY LANES, NOW AVAILABLE AT PITTSBURGH INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT. | COURTESY CLEAR

Just in time for the busy holiday season, Pittsburgh International Airport has introduced an international program designed to speed travelers through security lines here and at more than 50 other airports and some stadiums.

It’s called CLEAR Plus, a type of airport membership offering dedicated security lanes to verify traveler’s identity with their biometrics – such as iris scans or fingerprints. After verification, a CLEAR ambassador escorts the members to the front of the normal TSA security line or the TSA PreCheck line (if they have that service).

CLEAR Plus began here on Monday, Dec. 18.

The program costs about $16 a month ($189 a year) although Delta Air Lines, United Airlines, Alaska Airlines and American Express members provide discounts. Active military, veterans, and government officials are also eligible for discounted memberships, and additional family members can be added to an existing account for $99 per adult per year. There are now 19 million members in the program.

While there are times of the day or holiday season when there may be lengthy waits at Pittsburgh International to get through the regular TSA line, the new service could be particularly beneficial in navigating places like Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (the busiest airport in the world) or Orlando International Airport (one of the most popular tourist destinations). CLEAR already services nine of Pittsburgh International’s top 10 domestic destinations.

Make sure you do your homework. At large airports with many terminals, for example, it may be available at one terminal but not the one you’re flying out of, so you could not use it.

CLEAR members who are not enrolled in TSA PreCheck still have to remove their shoes and liquids in the regular TSA line.

Some federal lawmakers raised concerns this past summer after there were reports of breaches in 2022 and early in 2023, in which individuals had been escorted past the TSA check without being properly verified. Some privacy advocates also have questioned some of the data collected from members.

CLEAR has announced it will start facial recognition technology some time in 2024, which will further speed travelers through the airport.

PHOTO COURTESY SEVEN SPRINGS

We independently review everything we recommend. When you buy through our links, we may earn a commission.

Let’s face it, winter in Pittsburgh can be downright depressing; the skies are overcast (even more so than usual), the roads are filled with potholes and — perhaps my least favorite — it gets dark before 5 p.m., making the commute home from work feel like it could be at midnight. 

But! If you enjoy skiing, outdoor sports or just curling up before a fire, there are plenty of ways to make the cold-weather feel magical, including embracing it with a short getaway. Here are our picks for winter day trips that range from the family friendly to the romantic.  

OMNI BEDFORD SPRINGS RESORT

Omni Bedford Springs Resort

Relax and get rejuvenated at the historic Omni Bedford Springs Resort. Located less than 2 hours from Pittsburgh in the Allegheny Mountains, the AAA Four Diamond award-winning resort boasts both an indoor and outdoor pool, as well as one of the country’s first golf courses. For those looking to indulge, the resort’s spa treatments are inspired by the natural healing of springs first used by Native Americans. 

There also are six indoor and outdoor dining venues (among them the 1796 Room and The Crystal Room) serving up local produce and signature drinks. Guests may easily explore downtown Bedford, including with a variety of historic tours.

Worth noting: the 30,000-square-foot Springs Eternal Spa will undergo maintenance Jan 2-18. At that time, the Relaxation Lounge, Bedford Baths and locker rooms will not be accessible. The spa’s front desk will still operate as usual, as will the salon and retail areas. 

Book Here

PHOTO: SEVEN SPRINGS INSTAGRAM

Slopeside Hotel by Seven Springs Resort

There’s a reason Pittsburghers flock to the Laurel Highlands when the weather turns cold. Located about an hour outside the city, the scenic area is home to several ski resorts, including Laurel Mountain, Hidden Valley and Seven Springs; all three properties are operated by Vail Resorts. 

The largest of the three, Seven Springs, consists of 285 skiable acres and 750 vertical feet. In addition to skiing and snowboarding, the slopeside Main Lodge — attached to a 418-room hotel and conference center — houses an indoor pool, a bowling alley, a miniature golf course, an arcade and even an ax-throwing venue. For those seeking relaxation, the full-service Trillium Spa offers a variety of massages, facial and body treatments and salon services. 

If strapping on skis isn’t your thing (but you still want to partake in outdoor activities), you can still get your thrills at the resort’s popular snow tubing park. 

Book Here

THE CHATEAU AT NEMACOLIN WOODLANDS RESORT | PHOTOS COURTESY NEMACOLIN

Nemacolin

For the ultimate in luxury, there’s no place quite like Nemacolin in Farmington, Fayette County. Spread across the resort’s five distinct accommodations (among them The Chateau and The Grand Lodge) are fine dining, a number of spas and holistic service providers, clay shooting, horseback riding, painting classes, golf courses and a zoo  — and that’s just to start.  

Among the resort’s winter offerings are skiing and snowboarding at The Peak, which has six slopes ranging in difficulty from beginner to expert, snow tubing, outdoor ice skating, dogsledding and cross-country skiing. 

During the holidays, Nemacolin also offers bedtime elf visits for overnight guests and time with Santa at the Hardy Holiday House. 

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Great Wolf Lodge

Get outside of Pittsburgh with a trip to a wilderness lodge. OK, not really, but Great Wolf Lodge in Sandusky, Ohio (about 3 hours from Pittsburgh) is a woodlands-themed indoor/outdoor waterpark with fun for the whole family. 

The resort is best known for its number of waterslides, but there’s also a lazy river, family-friendly hot tubs and several water play areas. There’s no need to dine out as the resort houses several on-site restaurants, including pizza and pasta at Hungry as a Wolf and breakfast at Gitchigoomie. Other, non-water related activities include an arcade, bowling alley, MagiQuest interactive adventure, a sluicing mine for kids and a Build-A-Bear Workshop. 

Book Here

Gateway Lodge

For those looking to take a more romantic winter break, Gateway Lodge, a family-owned wilderness lodge in Cook Forest State Park, offers fireside suites, cabins and farm-to-table dining alongside the scenic Clarion River. 

Just the lodge’s location alone in a majestic old-growth forest makes for a winter wonderland. Cook Forest State Park has close to 30 miles of hiking trails, all of which are open to winter recreation. Three groomed trails are available for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. Or, take a walk along the Clarion River, where otters are known to frolic in the snow and slide down ice-covered riverbanks. 

Thrill seekers can check out Henry’s Run Day Use Area, where there’s a dedicated sledding area, or lace up their skates (rentals are available at the Cooksburg Dry Goods store) for a spin around the picturesque Cook Forest State Park Ice Skating Rink, which is surrounded by snow-covered trees. 

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The Hotel Hershey

No matter the time of year, Hersey, less than 4 hours from Pittsburgh, is a delicious destination. Besides Hersheypark, the beloved chocolate-inspired amusement park, the region is home to The Hershey Story Museum, where visitors can learn about Hershey chocolate founder Milton Hershey, as well as create their own treat in the Chocolate Lab. There’s also the Hershey’s Chocolate World Attraction, where visitors can experience how chocolate is made while savoring Hershey’s-inspired treats and drinks. 

There’s also no shortage of things to do in Hershey during the holidays. Chocolate World hosts events with Santa and Mrs. Claus, a holiday-themed trolley and the Hershey’s Holiday Chocolate House. Hersheypark also holds its annual Christmas Candylane, featuring more than 5 million twinkling lights, plus visits from Santa and his reindeer, through Jan. 1. 

Situated high atop the town of Hershey, the historical Hotel Hershey, built in the 1930s, offers several Hersheypark packages, including a Christmas Candycane Lane offer. Even if you don’t head to the amusement park, the luxury hotel’s amenities, among them an indoor waterpark and a chocolate-inspired spa, add up to a sweet getaway.

Book Here 

THE HICKORY BRIDGE CROSSING THE ALLEGHENY IN WARREN | PHOTOS BY SEAN COLLIER

Depending on how you travel, there can be very little relaxation on your vacation. If you’re the type to hustle from one destination to another, with tickets to an event every night and a slate of sights to see every day, when are you going to actually unwind?

When you go somewhere like Warren, Pennsylvania, that’s when. The small town just north of Allegheny National Forest has more than enough to draw visitors — particularly nature lovers — and enough isolation that you’ll be left with idle hours. Whether you visit for a day or a week, you will leave Warren feeling rejuvenated.

You’ll have the kind of day we wish we could have every day: Getting up early for a hike or a kayak trip, coming back for a long nap, enjoying a big meal and a few beers then relaxing at a beautiful boutique hotel.

TOM’S RUN TRAIL

Even if you’re a novice when it comes to outdoor recreation, Warren (and, more broadly, the full Allegheny National Forest area) will welcome you. Start your excursion at Allegheny Outfitters, a sprawling store offering everything you need to get back to nature, from advanced camping equipment down to the right shoes. You’ll also pick up a few souvenirs; look for the shirts featuring the squonk, the mopey resident cryptid of northern Pennsylvania.

If you prefer life on the river, you can rent a kayak on the spot (from Memorial Day through Labor Day) and take it out into the Allegheny. Long before colliding with the Monongahela at Point State Park, the Allegheny runs right through Warren; you’ll find new kayakers and seasoned pros alike exploring its banks and gently floating downriver. If it’s the woods you’re after, check at Allegheny Outfitters for recommended trailheads near town.

Looking for a beginner-friendly, 3.5-mile-or-so hike? Point your GPS to the Hearts Content Recreation Area; you’ll find signs for Tom’s Run, an invigorating loop that shouldn’t be too challenging for newcomers. (You may want to download the maps to your phone, as there’s very little cell service this deep in the woods.)

THE STRUTHERS LIBRARY THEATRE

After a day working up a sweat (and, ideally, that nap), you’ll want a hearty meal and a cool drink to go with it. The center of culinary gravity in Warren is a pair of local breweries offering good food and even better beer. Wicked Warren’s is a storefront brewery in the heart of town; you’ll see the stills downstairs as you saddle up to the bar. Their beer offerings range from the mainstream to the daring, and change seasonally; those looking for a refreshing brew after a long hike should try the Not a Boblem pilsner, while sippers seeking a more flavorful experience should order the hearty Sumpin’ Smokey rauchbier. Whatever you’re drinking, get a wood-fired pizza — or, if something else on the menu tempts you, at least begin with the delectable “pizza chips” appetizer, tiny discs of bread topped with cheese and pepperoni.

A few blocks away, Bent Run Brewing Co.  has a similarly strong lineup of suds on tap as well as a full menu; it’s also the go-to spot for Sunday brunch. Bent Run is located next door to Allegheny Outfitters, making it an irresistible next stop after climbing out of your kayak.

STATUE OF NAMESAKE GEN. JOSEPH WARREN

In the morning — or afternoon, depending on how long you sleep — the Arbor Coffee House Cafe & Tea Room is the unofficial center of the city. This is the kind of coffee shop where you’d never merely grab a cup and go; it insists that you linger, either inside its cozy confines or at one of the many streetside tables outside. Their lattes and teas are enveloping, and their sweet pastries sell out on a daily basis. It’s a sensory feast; it looks good, smells good, tastes good and sounds good.

You’ll want to stroll through the compact downtown area, where you’ll find treasures in Authors Books & Music, where you’ll get lost in piles of old paperbacks, and Second Avenue Exchange
a bargain hunter’s dream collection of consignment shops. If you have a nighttime destination, it will be the Struthers Library Theatre, a stately old building that hosts music, movies and more; it’s a beautiful place to spend an evening.

But you may not want to do much in the evening. Or any other time, for that matter. You may want to relax in your hotel, reading or napping; you may want to sit and watch the river go by; you may want to stroll the streets without a thought in your head. Warren is the kind of place that invites such quiet, restorative reveries.

Where to Stay: Seek out a room, if there’s one available, at the Hazeltine Boutique Hotel , a century-old Jacobean mansion that has been lovingly restored into a seven-room getaway. The amenities are remarkable, with free beer on tap (yes, from the local breweries), a generous continental breakfast and more — but you’re here for the remarkable building itself. A series of luxurious sitting rooms invite you to linger, if you can resist the call of your beautifully appointed bedroom. It’s a haven; in fact, if the Hazeltine is booked, reschedule your trip until it’s not.

PIZZA CHIPS AT WICKED WARREN’S

Where to Eat: The aforementioned breweries will likely be your first stop for food; both serve full menus of comfort food and more than a few healthier options. The food at Arbor Coffee House is quite good as well, especially the wraps; try the turkey-and-kale option. If you’re looking for a hearty serving of satisfying pub grub, pop into Christie’s Downtown Pub & Grille. 

When to Go: There’s no off season in Warren, as many of the trails near the town are favored by snowshoe enthusiasts and cross-country skiers in the colder months. Spring and autumn are natural choices for more amateur hikers, and summer is best for river activities. But if you’ve thought about learning to snowshoe, this is the place — and who doesn’t love a winter getaway?

PHOTOS BY SEAN COLLIER

I have, of course, seen “It’s a Wonderful Life” a number of times. It’s practically unavoidable, after all; countless television and repertory showings over the past seven-plus decades have made the film not just a holiday standard, but an indelible part of American culture.

It never affected me before, however, like it did last Wednesday.

On Thanksgiving Eve, I drove to Indiana, Pennsylvania, for a long-overdue trip to the Jimmy Stewart Museum. The museum, which takes up a floor of the Indiana Borough Community Building, is a hometown history of the legendary actor’s life and times — as well as an overview of his family’s history in Indiana, including the story of his father’s hardware store, where Stewart’s Oscar was once displayed.

In addition to rooms of memorabilia, movie posters and artifacts from Stewart’s life (look for his booth from legendary Hollywood restaurant Chasen’s), the museum houses a small screening room. At 1 p.m. each afternoon, one of Stewart’s films is shown — the screening is included with your admission to the museum. In a warm, inviting room (with a jolly, stuffed version of the rabbit “Harvey” sitting in the back row) classics such as “Vertigo” and “Bend in the River” play, perennially.

That’s where I had my annual viewing of “It’s a Wonderful Life,” surrounded by its star’s memories and treasures.

I found myself getting choked up when the angel Clarence says, “No man is a failure who has friends.” The movie is, after all, a story about friendship; while it is certainly a Christmas movie, it’s fundamentally a tale of social worth, of the invaluable role we play in one another’s lives regardless of how much money we have in the bank. Stewart’s many friends and companions seemed to surround me — letters from luminaries such as Frank Capra and Alfred Hitchcock, the door of his Hollywood home with a list of the well-wishers who passed through it, relics of how much his hometown loved him.

Call it the magic of a very good movie in a very good place, but Clarence’s message landed with a bit more weight than it ever has before.

And the Jimmy Stewart Museum is indeed a very good place. It is, in fact, a model for the way a museum can honor a favorite son. There is nothing dry or textbook about the displays and information here; Stewart’s life and accomplishments are vivid and moving.

That shines through the most, though, in the screening room. Here, every day, Stewart’s work is on display — publicly and communally, as it should be. No amount of artifacts or historical detail can match that; it is not only the actor’s memory that is kept alive here, it is his spirit and career.

If I lived a bit closer, I would become a museum member just for the ability to pop in and enjoy a classic any afternoon I wanted. I’ll certainly be back when I notice a favorite flick on the schedule. It’s a moving place — a tribute not just to a celebrity or a good actor, but to a person whose life and times are worth remembering in perpetuity.

No man is a failure who has friends — and if you have enough of them, apparently, your legacy can last forever.

PHOTO BY RICHARD COOK

For the past three years, flying from Pittsburgh to San Diego has always required at least one layover. That will change next summer when Southwest Airlines begins nonstop, seasonal service between the two cities.

There will be one flight a week, on Saturdays each way from June 8 through August. The inbound flight will leave San Diego at 8:35 a.m. and arrive in Pittsburgh at 4:10 p.m. The outbound flight will leave at 4:35 p.m. and land in San Diego at 6:35 p.m. according to Blue Sky News.

Southwest also announced it will resume seasonal service to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina in June with daily flights, increasing to twice daily on Saturdays. Additionally, service to Nashville, Tennessee will increase to three daily flights on peak days.

San Diego becomes the fourth West Coast city, joining Los Angeles, San Francisco and Seattle, with nonstop service to and from Pittsburgh.

Frontier Airlines was the last to offer nonstop service to San Diego in January of 2019.

PHOTOS BY SEAN COLLIER

It is a cool, clear morning in northern Pennsylvania, and I am looking for a squonk.

I first heard of the squonk, the Keystone State’s resident cryptid, a few years back. The almost-certainly fictional beast is said to be a four-legged creature so overwhelmingly ugly that it lives in a constant state of weeping shame. Aware of, and bemoaning, its wart-covered, slack-skinned appearance, it constantly cries and hides, hoping never to be spotted.

Naturally, the squonk — first referenced in the late 1800s and described in detail in a 1910 book, “Fearsome Creatures of the Lumberwoods” — prefers to get around at night, when it can better conceal its hideousness. But I’m hopeful that I might find a squonk somewhere near Tom’s Run Trail, an easy loop near the Heart’s Content Recreation Area in Allegheny National Forest.

Is it known to be prime squonk sighting territory? No — although squonk merchandise, including refrigerator magnets and a very fetching t-shirt, is available at nearby Allegheny Outfitters. But it was a very convenient place for a hike, so here I am.

I have brought no particular equipment and certainly nothing like a net or bag; when captured, the squonk is able to spontaneously dissolve its entire body into tears, rather than have its unfortunate appearance displayed to the world.

The squonk is, in fact, a very Gen-Z cryptid: Self-conscious, emotionally volatile and preferring to stay out of sight whenever possible. The squonk must have loved 2020.

As I stroll through the lovely woods, I’m struck by the relative quiet of the area. It’s a cool, windy day, so I’d imagine most of the wildlife is taking it a bit easy; I don’t see more than a stray chipmunk for the first hour of my quest. The peacefulness of Allegheny National Forest is remarkable; there are some isolated areas that can feel intimidating in their remoteness, but the lush forest and beautiful color of the leaves makes this spot instantly soothing.

The quiet is fitting for my mission, as I am able to listen intently for the weeping of the squonk. The mythical beast has been immortalized in many forms; it’s the namesake of a lauded performance troupe and the subject of a song by Genesis. The squonk even has its own festival, Squonkapalooza, held annually in Johnstown; the event aims to draw the squonk out with fun and festivities, though any self-respecting squonk would likely see that as some form of ruse.

SQUONK MAGNET FOR SALE AT ALLEGHENY OUTFITTERS IN WARREN, PA.

If there are squonks in the vicinity of Tom’s Run Trail, they’re too clever for me; they seem to have momentarily silenced their sobbing and are doing a fine job of hiding. As I resign myself to the fact that I’m unlikely to meet a squonk today, I realize I had no idea what I would do if I were to find one; would I try to photograph the unsightly critter, thus adding to its sad plight? Would I attempt to somehow soothe or compliment it? Or would I be shocked and recoil, adding to its misery?

Perhaps it’s better that I didn’t find a squonk — in fact, perhaps it’s best if no one does. If the squonk does exist deep in the Pennsylvania forest, its lot in life is an unhappy one, soothed only when it can succeed in secreting itself away. We shouldn’t disturb the squonk, which only seeks solitude and may actually dissolve if we find it.

In a lot of ways, it’s the best kind of cryptid; one that seeks never to be found and cannot be captured, making its existence impossible to either prove or disprove. By definition, we cannot know if there are squonks among the trees; we cannot, therefore, know that they aren’t out there. At any given moment, there may be a squonk nearby; we’ll never know.

As I emerged from Tom’s Run Trail, I wasn’t sad that my search was squonk-free; I was relieved. The fun of the squonk is its mysteriousness — how impossible to find it is. To actually find one would ruin it.

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PHOTO BY DAVE DICELLO

Whether you live here or not, Pittsbirgh’s unique blend of urban charm and natural beauty makes it a prime spot for those seeking a weekend getaway. With a diverse selection of vacation home rentals available, visitors can find the perfect sanctuary to experience the city like a local. Whether you’re looking for a romantic weekend, a family adventure, or a bonding retreat with friends, Pittsburgh’s surrounding areas boast a range of opportunities to make your weekend stay memorable.

PHOTOS: VRBO

Rustic Treehouse Tucked away in the enchanting woods of Fernstone Retreat, the Fernstone Treehouse offers a dreamy romantic escape for two, hand-crafted from natural timber and accessible via an elongated staircase. Enjoy a fireplace, hot tub, and majestic mountain views, ensuring a comfortable stay amidst nature in Farmington’s mountainous region. Guests can explore the beauty of Ohiopyle State Park and Laurel Ridge State Park. The cabin is pet-friendly, accommodating up to two dogs, and is perfect for those keen on birdwatching and spotting wildlife.

Why rent: Perfect for couples looking for a unique, hand-crafted retreat nestled in enchanting woods, providing an unparalleled connection to nature with modern comforts.

Price: $366 average per night; Book Now

Cozy Convenience

Located in Lawrenceville, this apartment is near the Allegheny River and within close proximity to The ScareHouse and St. Nicholas Croatian Catholic Parish. West Penn Hospital and Three Rivers Heritage Trail are also within 3 miles. Spacious and cozy, this charming apartment sleeps 2, and has a full kitchen, an impeccably modern bathroom, and an outdoor terrace for enjoying a glass of wine or taking in the views.

Why rent: Perfect for couples looking for a cozy stay near the river and local attractions.

Price: $130 average per night; Book Now

Cozy Log Cabin

The Eagles’ Nest log cabin, nestled in the Laurel Highlands, offers a serene escape surrounded by woods and the sounds of the Roaring Run creek. Newly renovated, it comfortably sleeps two with a queen bed and a custom pull-out couch, boasting amenities like a hot tub, outdoor fire pit, and internet, so you’ll stay connected even while you’re relaxing. Located a short drive from Seven Springs and Hidden Valley resorts, and Ohiopyle State Park, it’s an ideal base for both relaxation and adventures like zip-lining, skiing, and exploring local parks and wineries.

Why rent: A tranquil retreat in the Laurel Highlands, perfectly positioned for exploring local resorts, parks, and wineries, while indulging in amenities like a hot tub and the soothing sounds of Roaring Run creek.

Price: $239 average per night; Book Now

House on the Lake

Overlooking Lake Erie from an 80-foot cliff, this Lakeside ranch retreat offers a spacious setting perfect for families or groups, boasting a well-equipped kitchen, a sunroom for admiring renowned sunsets, and a large living room with a 65-inch TV. Located in a serene Erie neighborhood, it’s minutes from downtown, close to Chautauqua Park and Beach, and a short drive to Presque Isle State Park and Waldameer Park & Water World. Nearby attractions include Warner Theatre, Splash Lagoon, and the Erie Maritime Museum, making it an ideal base for relaxation and exploration.

Why rent: Breathtaking Lake Erie sunsets from an 80-foot cliff, spacious interiors, and proximity to Erie’s top attractions, making it an idyllic waterfront escape.

Price: $300 average per night; Book Now

Stein Oasis, Beaver Creek State Park

A luxury guesthouse boasting a heated indoor pool complemented by a bar, an 80-inch SmartTV, and recreational tables for ping pong and air hockey. Set on a 5-acre property, this newly renovated space offers two bedrooms, 1.5 baths, and a grand 4,592-square-foot-pool complex adorned with a wood-beamed vaulted ceiling and abundant natural light. Guests can indulge in a game of tennis on the property’s full court, available both day and night. 

Price: $550 average per night; Book Now

Perfect for Kids

Dive into a whimsical Willy Wonka-themed retreat located directly behind Children’s Hospital of Pittsburgh, offering an immersive experience with oversized candy decor, Oompa Loompas, and unique room designs. The home comfortably sleeps 8 guests with a king bed, one queen, and four twin beds, all featuring a 12-inch cooling gel memory foam mattress. Guests can enjoy modern amenities like super fast Wi-Fi, a fully stocked kitchen, an arcade, highly designed rooms, and two Roku smart TVs, all minutes from Pittsburgh’s main attractions. 

Why rent: Experience a one-of-a-kind Willy Wonka-themed retreat, blending whimsical decor with modern comforts, all centrally located near Pittsburgh’s top attractions.

Price: $217 average per night; Book Now

Timberwood at Hidden Valley

You and 25 of your closest friends and family members can enjoy Hidden Valley Mountain Resort and a slew of apres-ski amenities. The Timberwood at Hidden Valley Resort is a luxurious mountain-top retreat, boasting large wood timbers, stone architecture, and meticulously decorated interiors for unparalleled comfort. This custom-built ski-in/out home, nestled in the scenic Laurel Mountains, offers eight spacious bedrooms, a private heated pool, and a gourmet kitchen with quartz countertops. Guests can indulge in a range of amenities, from a 15-person movie theater and indoor basketball court to a large hot tub and a pool table. Perfect for family festivities and getaways, this retreat ensures a memorable stay with modern conveniences and a serene ambiance.

Why rent: Luxurious mountain-top escape in the Laurel Mountains, blending ski in/out convenience with a private heated pool and a 15-person movie theater, making it an unparalleled retreat for memorable family gatherings and getaways.

Price: $1,083 average per night; Book Now

PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

When camping in the fall, there are some choices and considerations that can make the trip more comfortable and safer.

• Think layers. When evenings can be cool and days can still reach high temps, be prepared for any weather. It’s better to wear a sweatshirt on a hike that ends up in your backpack then not to bring one at all — when the temperature drops, you’re stuck.
• Fabric matters. Fall can be damp and muddy, and outdoor activities also make us sweat. Cotton fabrics will feel chilly and take a long time to dry, so choose moisture-wicking natural fibers such as merino wool or synthetics such as fleece, polyester and nylon.
• Sleep in a hat. While it’s always a good idea to bring a knit cap in the fall, it’s actually most important to wear it while you sleep. It’s a great way to retain body heat during chilly nights.
• Bring good shoes. Crocs and Tevas may be perfect for summer camping — they transition from creek-walking to dinner wear with ease. When temperatures drop, though, cold and wet feet are a recipe for disaster (and blisters). Invest in a good pair of waterproof hiking boots and pack extra socks.
• Be visible. While most recreation areas are well-marked with designated hunting areas, fall is still deer season in the tri-state area. Choose bright orange or red clothing for hikes in the woods. Wearing 250 square inches of blaze orange is the official recommendation, which is about the size of a vest.
• Snack. When temps drop, it’s important to keep fueling your body with high-fat and high-protein items, especially if you’re in a tent and your body will be working harder to stay warm all night. Prepackaged nuts, cheese and protein bars are easy to shove in a bag for hikes or outings.

Related:

Some of Our Favorite Camping Spots Near Pittsburgh When the Leaves Change

Camping Events This Fall That Are Worth The Drive

How to Best Enjoy Fall in The Forest

BASE JUMPING AT NEW RIVER GORGE NATIONAL PARK AND RESERVE | PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK

Oct. 21
Bridge Day, New River Gorge National Park

On the third Saturday of October each year, the massive bridge across New River Gorge is closed for one of the largest extreme sport festivals in the world. Last year, 140,000 spectators watched BASE jumpers, rapellers and zip liners from 39 states leap from the bridge. (officialbridgeday.com)

Sept. – Oct.
Gauley Season, New River Gorge 

While the New River is the central feature of the national park, the nearby Gauley River is also a stunning natural wonder. Every September, a series of scheduled water releases from the Summersville dam create some of the best whitewater in the world. These releases occur through October and create a six-week long rafting season that draws rafters from across the globe. The West Virginia Department of Tourism calls Gauley Season “a whitewater roller coaster for six unforgettable weeks.” Campgrounds and rafting companies in the region rent equipment and lead guided tours for visitors.

Oct. 6-8
Confluence PumpkinFest, Laurel Highlands

Situated along the Great Allegheny Passage bike trail, the tiny hamlet of Confluence sits where the Youghiogheny and Casselman Rivers and Laurel Hill Creek meet. Each fall it hosts a festival with duck races, family activities and baked goods that celebrate the local harvest. (confluencepumpkinfest.com)

Oct. 13-15
Fort Ligonier Days, Laurel Highlands

On Oct. 12, 1758, a key battle of the French & Indian War occurred at Fort Ligonier. Centuries later, a festival full of re-enactments, food, live music, and family events commemorates the day. (fortligonierdays.com)

Sept. 7-10
Erie’s Wild Rib Cook Off & Music Festival, Erie

This culinary event is anchored by the amazing food — but visitors come back year after year for the music. While in Erie camping, take a break from campfire meals and grab some award-winning ribs. This event, which has been running for nearly 30 years, has been featured on The Food Network. (erieribfest.com)

Related:

Some of Our Favorite Camping Spots Near Pittsburgh When the Leaves Change

How To Camp Like A Pro In the Fall

How to Best Enjoy Fall in The Forest

THE GREAT ALLEGHENY PASSAGE | PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

Pittsburgh Metro Region

Raccoon Creek State Park, Keystone State Park and Moraine State Park all have cabins as well as sites for tents and RVs. Raccoon Creek’s 314-acre wildflower preserve is one of the most diverse stands of wildflowers in Western Pennsylvania, and the blooms peak in early September. Reservations can be made through the Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural Resources website (dcnr.pa.gov). Privately owned campgrounds such as Bear Run Campground in Portersville and Mountain Top Campground in Tarentum can be booked through campspot.com.

New River Gorge National Park and Preserve

America’s newest national park is a pandemic baby — this well-loved recreation area, located just under 4 hours from Pittsburgh in West Virginia, officially became the 63rd national park in 2020. It’s known for rafting, climbing, biking and views. There are nine primitive tenting areas available on a first-come, first-serve basis. For those who want some more creature comforts, check out private camping resorts nearby. Adventures on the Gorge (adventuresonthegorge.com) features multi-bedroom cottages with private hot tubs as well as smaller cabins and traditional campsites. With adventure packages available that include rafting and high-ropes courses, it’s a great choice for new campers to experience fall at the park. ACE Adventure Resort (aceraft.com) features rafting packages and cabins and even has tent and camping gear rental for those interested in giving tent camping a try. It’s also possible to walk on the catwalk under the New River Gorge bridge itself (harnessed, of course), which is the tallest bridge-walking experience in the world (bridgewalk.com).

YOUGHIOGHENY RIVER

Laurel Highlands

Known for Fallingwater, whitewater rafting and snowsports, this mountainous region southeast of Pittsburgh is a perfect spot for fall camping. The area is rife with campgrounds, state parks and cabins for rent — from rustic to luxe. Ohiopyle State Park is a popular choice for fall tent camping and leaf peeping, and the cabins and lodges at Laurel Hill State Park sleep anywhere from five to 14 guests. There’s no need to stay in just one spot while in the area, though. The Great Allegheny Passage bike trail (gaptrail.org) runs through the Laurel Highlands, with accommodations and campsites situated at regular intervals along the trail. Go Laurel Highlands (golaurelhighlands.com) lists accommodations and events this fall — and turn to page 20 for more travel recommendations in the area.

Allegheny National Forest

While Pennsylvania has no national parks within its borders, it does have more than two dozen sites managed by the National Park Service, as well as Allegheny National Forest, which is managed by the U.S. Forest Service (nationalforests.org). This forest spans several counties along the Allegheny River and contains some of the oldest forest grounds in the state. There are tent sites, RV sites, cabins and even the historic Farnsworth Cabin, which was built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps. Bookings for the national forest are done through recreation.gov. There are also many private campgrounds and vacation home rentals available in the area through Airbnb, VRBO and Campspot.

PRESQUE ISLE LIGHTHOUSE | PHOTO COURTESY VISITERIE

Lake Erie’s Shores

Just 2 hours north of Pittsburgh, Erie is a popular weekend getaway for locals. While the region is rife with hotels, it’s also a great location for fall camping. Presque Isle State Park does not have any campsites, but Sara’s Campground borders the state park and features camping on the beach (sarascampground.com). Nearby Presque Isle Passage RV Park (presqueislepassage.com) has campsites, yurts, cabins and recreational vehicles to rent, and can be booked through Campspot.com. Check out Visit Erie (visiterie.com) for information on ongoing events as well as a fall harvest festival and wine festival.

Related:

Camping Events This Fall That Are Worth The Drive

How To Camp Like A Pro In the Fall

How to Best Enjoy Fall in The Forest

PHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

Situated between vast expanses of protected land and recreation areas, Pittsburgh is a prime location for outdoor lovers.

From the Laurel Highlands region of the Appalachian mountains to the dozens of state parks and national forest land in Pennsylvania to the nation’s newest national park in West Virginia, it’s no surprise that many Pittsburgers cut their teeth on a mountain pie and have been camping ever since.

Even for those who did not grow up camping, interest in the activity is on the rise. In a recent report by Dyrt, a popular camping app, campgrounds reported it was five times more difficult to book a campsite in 2022 than in previous years. They also found that 15 million Americans camped for the first time ever over the last two years.

The surge in camping was initially believed to be a brief trend during the pandemic, but the outdoor recreation industry continues to boom. This can mean popular campgrounds book quickly — making last-minute camping trips nearly impossible during the summer months.

Campers and the camper-curious shouldn’t discount the fall season for camping adventures. There’s more lodging available, fewer crowds and just as much value to be found in the outdoor experience. While it may be too chilly in Western Pennsylvania for a dip in a lake or campground pool, the fall months offer so much for outdoor adventurers — including some of the best fall foliage in the United States; in 2022, the Laurel Highlands region was ranked 7th in the country for viewing fall foliage by USA Today.

In this region, fall camping means a chance to observe changes to flora and fauna first-hand. At state and national parks, rangers run free programs every day to educate visitors on the natural world.

Monarch butterflies that hatched over summer months prepare to migrate to Mexico each fall; education programs at local state parks allow visitors to catch and tag butterflies alongside the park rangers. Even the youngest children can carefully place a numbered sticker on the fragile wings with a bit of help. Campers receive an update if their butterfly survives the journey south.

Fall is also a great time to observe bird migrations in this region. Several species of hawks begin their migration in late August and can be seen soaring along ridgelines throughout the fall months. Their impressive wingspan over bright fall foliage is an unforgettable sight. Other birds of prey also begin to migrate in the fall, including kestrels, peregrine falcons and merlins. Smaller songbirds are on the move in the fall as well, and waterfowl flock back to Pennsylvania lakes and streams to spend the winter. Apps from Audubon and other organizations help campers identify the species they spot.

Cooler temps bring mating season for deer and elk, meaning animals are more active — and therefore more visible. While the only remaining elk herds in Pennsylvania reside in and around the Allegheny National Forest to the northeast, white-tail deer are common in all natural areas in this region.

Bears are also active in the fall as they fill their bellies for winter hibernation. During September and October, bears eat and drink nonstop — campers are more likely to see a bear during the fall than at any other time of year. Remember to observe animals, even small ones, from a distance. Not only can human interference upset the ecosystem, some animals become aggressive when disturbed.

Related:

Some of Our Favorite Camping Spots Near Pittsburgh When the Leaves Change

Camping Events This Fall That Are Worth The Drive

How To Camp Like A Pro In the Fall

Tent camping is one of the most affordable travel options and can be an enjoyable experience — with the right gear. Tent sites in Pennsylvania’s state parks begin at just $16 per night, although investing in the right camping gear for cold weather can make it a pricier venture than in summer months.

Camping does not have to involve a tent, though. Even the most enthusiastic tent camper might choose a cabin, yurt or RV. There are many options around Pittsburgh that provide solitude in the woods with the comfort of running water and an indoor bathroom. Rustic campsites are often also not ADA accessible and can be difficult for travelers with disabilities to navigate, but government-owned and privately owned campgrounds are required to provide some accessible cabins.

Camping is also all about the food. Even for lodging with a full kitchen, lean into the simple and hearty meals that camping memories are made of. Hot dogs and kielbasa over the fire, mountain pies bursting with apple filling and s’mores are essential. Foil packet meals full of vegetables and freshly caught fish can be baked over the coals of a campfire for a truly authentic backwoods meal. Rural communities also often have local eateries that provide home cooking to rival any city restaurant. A tiny diner in a one-stoplight town with a packed parking lot? Stop there for lunch.

The main feature that makes a trip a “camping trip” is the proximity to nature, not the type of roof overhead. A quiet cabin in a state park or a treehouse overhanging a creek provide much of the same benefits as tent camping — fewer people around, fewer distractions and more space to unplug and unwind.

Information for this article was provided by the Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural Resources, Go Laurel Highlands and West Virginia Tourism. For more information on camping and fall activities in these regions, please reach out directly. 

GAZEBO BANDSTAND PARK ON THE DIAMOND | PHOTOS BY HUCK BEARD

A small town charmer.” One of “The Most Charming Small Towns in America.” “Among the best places on Earth to lick an ice-cream cone on a warm summer night.”

These descriptions of Ligonier in travel brochures and magazines are no exaggeration.

Whether you’re on a weekend getaway or visiting the town as a launch pad to other sights in the Laurel Highlands, this Westmoreland County borough of 1,500 people offers a variety of history, dining, shopping and entertainment in a quaint setting that feels like a Hallmark Channel movie.

The focal point is an old-fashioned town square called the Diamond, bordered by the town library, white-columned town hall, post office, ice cream parlor, shops and a Methodist church. At the center is the gazebo bandstand park — a slice of Americana — that received a $3.5 million facelift in 2018.

FORT LIGONIER

One of the main draws of this borough, of course, is Fort Ligonier (fortligonier.org), whose original 8-acre site served as the outpost for 5,000 British-American soldiers (including a 26-year-old George Washington) during the French and Indian War. An active garrison, it was never taken. After the fort was decommissioned in 1766, little remained by the end of the 19th century. The Daughters of the American Revolution, with support from the Mellon family, helped reconstruct the fort, which opened in 1953; a museum followed in 1962.

More than 200 re-enactors will fill the site for Fort Ligonier Days, Oct. 13-15, which this year will commemorate the 265th anniversary of the unsuccessful attack on the fort. It’s the biggest weekend of the year in Ligonier, drawing 100,000 visitors to take in its military exercises, 200 craft and food booths, live music, a 5K walk/run, special wine tastings and a grand parade on Saturday. It comes at the peak of the fall foliage season, a time of stunning beauty in the Laurel Highlands.

The original path of the Lincoln Highway — the first transcontinental highway in the U.S. — veered into Ligonier on Main Street and then back to Route 30. The stretch through town was completed in July 1919 and is credited with spurring development in the town. One of 20 of the original highway markers that remain in Pennsylvania (at one time there were 300) is on the edge of the Diamond.

MAIN EXHIBIT GALLERY & ART CENTER | PHOTOS BY VIRGINIA LINN

To appreciate Ligonier, you need to walk it. Its mostly flat business district is filled with an eclectic mix of shops and restaurants, a bowling alley, a few bars, a family-owned movie cinema and theater, antique and furniture stores and galleries. The few empty storefronts already have signs posted about new businesses on the way. If you’re staying the weekend and looking for a quick workout, you can get a day pass for $10 at the giant YMCA on Church Street, just a block off the main drag.

LINCOLN HIGHWAY MARKER ON THE DIAMOND

Ligonier also is a convenient location to reach myriad destinations in the Laurel Highlands. It’s a short drive down Route 30 to Pennsylvania’s oldest amusement park, Idlewild and Soak Zone, and 25-45 minutes from the Frank Lloyd Wright sites of Fallingwater, Polymath Park and Kentuck Knob. In the vicinity, you’ll also find Powdermill Nature Reserve, Ohiopyle State Park, the Flight 93 National Memorial, local ski resorts, the Great Allegheny Passage bike/pedestrian trail and a branch of the Southern Alleghenies Museum of Art. The GO Laurel Highlands visitors bureau (golaurelhighlands.com) has put together several sightseeing trails — among these are the Pour Tour, featuring more than 50 craft beverage locations, and the Trout Trail, 10 spots for the best trout fishing.

Fortunately, Ligonier is only an hour’s drive from Pittsburgh. There’s so much to do and see you’ll want to come back again and again.

Where to Stay:
The boutique hotel Thistledown at Seger House (thistledownligonier.com) offers eight renovated rooms in an early 20th century mansion built by coal baron John Seger, adorned with beautiful stained-glass windows. Dogs are welcome. It includes the independently owned Sweet Rust farm-to-table restaurant and distillery, and there is live music under a large front yard tent on weekends. There are a few B&Bs along Main Street, as well as the Ramada by Wyndham.

Where to Eat:
In addition to Sweet Rust at Thistledown, you’ll find gourmet flavors at The Kitchen on Main (thekitchenonmain.com), a scratch and open kitchen concept offering breakfast, lunch and dinner with a craft cocktail bar. The historical Ligonier Tavern & Table (ligoniertavernandtable.com), in the former home of Ligonier’s first mayor (the first home here with indoor plumbing), offers lunch and dinner and a full bar. No visit is complete without a stop at the Ligonier Creamery (facebook.com/ligoniercreamery), right on the Diamond.

Where to Shop:
Check out Main Exhibit Gallery & Art Center (mainexhibitgallery.com) and G Squared Gifts & Gallery (gsquaredligonierpa.com) — both packed with high-quality, one-of-a-kind jewelry, arts, ceramics and crafts. Don’t miss the Toy Soldier Gallery (toysoldiergallery.net), a miniature hobby store; there’s nothing like it in the region.

When to Go:
Special events are planned each month — even in January, when 50 ice sculptures appear for the annual Ligonier Ice Fest. During the summer, there are Sunday evening band concerts on the Diamond through August and occasional night markets. Fort Ligonier Days, the biggest festival weekend during the height of leaf-peeping season, this year is Oct. 13-15.

THE CHATEAU AT NEMACOLIN | PHOTOS COURTESY NEMACOLIN

I call pull and the pigeon is released, hurtling away from me to the scrubwood. The 12-gauge — a Beretta Silver Pigeon Over-and-Under — kicks back on my shoulder blade. I’ve shot before I even realize it. A miss.

Pull again. My barrel follows the pigeon up and away. I wait for the drop — that moment when the pigeon has hit its highest point and turns to plummet back to earth. This time, it’s a hit. Bloodless. Clay shards scatter and fall to the ground, a cemetery of orange headstones.

“Good one. Next, close your eyes before you call. Picture yourself hitting the pigeon. Now open your eyes. Be ready.”

Who knew that shooting clay pigeons could be so Zen?

Pull.

Another hit.

PHOTOS COURTESY NEMACOLIN

I’ve never been a gun kinda guy, but Ty Schaefer, Nemacolin’s field club director, makes me feel like one. On a sunny Wednesday afternoon, we hop between shooting stands on the sporting-clay course, part of the resort’s 150-acre playground for game enthusiasts. He says he’d rather take out a beginner, which I certainly am, because beginners tend to be more open to instruction. I see an improvement within the hour.

It’s all part of the Nemacolin (nemacolin.com) experience, provided to Pittsburgh Magazine to experience the amenities and preview The Grand Lodge. The resort aims higher than your typical vacation destination. Take your expectations and multiply threefold.

On my arrival, master mixologist Badr El Khessassi has a custom mocktail (huckleberry tea, lemon juice, mint syrup) waiting for me — it’s beyond delicious. At the spa (more on that later), even the door handle has been designed to stimulate the pressure points of my hand. After dinner on my first night, I find my phone-charging cord tied with a gold bow.

In 1949, Pittsburgh industrialist Willard F. Rockwell bought a 60-acre portion of land in Fayette County, just a short drive from Ohiopyle, to establish the Nemacolin Trails Hunting Reserve. Years later, Joseph A. Hardy III — founder of 84 Lumber Company — was looking to buy property near a lake or stream for his daughter Maggie, a fishing enthusiast. When he came upon the Nemacolin property, he purchased it and the surrounding land. Now at 2,200 acres, the resort boasts three luxury hotels, restaurants, bars, lounges, two spas, two golf courses (designed by Pete Dye) and a golf academy, pools, wildlife habitats, tennis, art tours, zip-lining, skiing and more.

THE TEA ROOM AT THE CHATEAU.

The Hardy family’s art collection is a particular draw. The resort boasts that 95% of the extensive collection is on display throughout the hotels, on the resort grounds as outdoor sculptures and in three art galleries. Prints by noted wildlife painter John James Audubon are displayed on The Chateau Club Floor.

To soothe that recoil bruise from your day of shooting, book an appointment at the Woodlands Spa and Salon or the Holistic Healing Center. Massage, acupuncture, salt-water float therapy and yoga are on the menu, but a Fire & Ice session with infrared-light sauna and whole-body cryotherapy (chilled to minus-160 degrees) is a sensation you won’t soon forget.

Nemacolin’s Grand Lodge is undergoing a wall-to-wall renovation this summer, scheduled to be unveiled in August. The resort’s “whimsical and woodsy charm” is the inspiration with a new and dramatic porte cochère, distinctive color palettes, and Juliet or walk-out balconies overlooking the grounds.

The resort is famous for its vast wine collection (with 11,000-plus bottles valued at about $1 million), but the cigar shop in The Hardy Room is a fascinating stop. Like the immersive shooting experience at the field club, the cigar shop can guide you in the etiquette of cigars and teach you how to clip it, light it and smoke it like a pro. Go easy with a $14 Acid Blondie — or go big with a $5,000 Alfred Dunhill 1987-vintage antique cigar.

THE BLEU ROOM

Lucky guests may hear whispers of the mysterious Bleu Room, which is hidden away somewhere on the resort. (I’ll never tell.) If you receive an invitation, don’t hesitate. Inspired by Marie Antoinette’s nap room at the palace of Versailles, this parlor — featuring afternoon tea, craft cocktails and light bites — is serenity within a puff of blue cotton candy.

Area sites not to be missed include Fallingwater (fallingwater.org) and Cucumber Falls at Ohiopyle State Park (golaurelhighlands.com/outdoors/ohiopyle). Fallingwater, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright, never fails to amaze. For a new experience, book a Fireside Chat with noted thinkers in art, architecture, design and nature. Upcoming events feature cellist Mike Block and architect Daniel Libeskind, who is redesigning the Tree of Life building in Squirrel Hill.

Many consider the 30-foot Cucumber Falls to be the most photogenic waterfall in Western Pennsylvania, and it’s just a 10-minute drive from Nemacolin. There are three ways to see it: from above, from below (a steep climb down wooden steps), and best of all, from behind the rushing water.

Where to Stay
Nemacolin offers five options depending on length of stay and price point. The Chateau, modeled on The Ritz in Paris, is the most affordable, yet still luxurious. For a more opulent stay, book rooms at Falling Rock or The Grand Lodge (opening in August). For a more private experience, try The Homes and The Estates (for larger groups).

Where to Eat
The culinary team at Lautrec has long been famous for its masterpiece meals, having earned both Forbes Five-Star and AAA Five-Diamond Restaurant status. It’s been on hiatus during the renovation but is scheduled to reopen this summer. A cornerstone of the renovation at The Grand Lodge is Fawn & Fable, billed as an upscale steakhouse experience with a quiet and whimsical ambiance. Meanwhile, try the seafood-centered Aqueous (itself a Forbes Four-Star and AAA Four-Diamond Restaurant) for upscale fare in a Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired setting. The Aqueous Seafood Tower is a lighted marvel and a must-share. For lighter eats, try wings at The Tavern and finish off sweet at the 1950s-style PJ’s Ice Cream Parlor.

When to Go
There’s plenty to do in all four seasons at Nemacolin, from Jeep off-roading, Segway tours, fly fishing and horseback riding in the warmer months to cross-country skiing, ice skating, snowshoeing and dog sledding when temperatures drop. Indoor activities include bowling, axe throwing, the Woodlands Auto Toy Store and the Pride & Joy Airplane Hangar.

From the Smithton Beach stop on the Great Allegheny Passage, it’s hard to make out Smithton Borough. The hamlet lies past a steep bridge across the tree-lined Youghiogheny River. Most bicyclists and hikers only notice a new trailside sign touting Smithton and old signs warning, “Cross Bridge Cautiously.”

But if you do cross the bridge, you’ll find a historical borough that many locals call “Smithin.” The Westmoreland town is becoming a popular overnight stop for many of the GAP’s long-distance cyclists — it’s about 41 miles from the trail’s start at Point State Park in Downtown Pittsburgh and 108 miles from the trail’s finish in Cumberland, Maryland.

Crossing the bridge is like traveling back in time.

You’ll find about 390 residents wedged into barely a 10th of a square mile. You’ll find small homes whose porches and yards teem with flags, pinwheels, banners, welcome signs, coat hooks, statues and bushes shaped like dogs.

You’ll find a big sign about Shirley Jones, who moved here at age 3 and joined a local Methodist choir at 6 before becoming Miss Pittsburgh. She went on to win an Oscar for her role as a vengeful prostitute in the 1960 film “Elmer Gantry” and later played a wholesome mother on TV’s “The Partridge Family.”

You’ll find three churches, a few stores and offices, mostly with limited hours, and the former brewery of Stoney’s Beer, a regional favorite now made in Latrobe.

You’ll find some new things too. A bed and breakfast. A restaurant with lodgings above. An antiques shop. A salon. A pollinator garden. A “Float Smithton” boat launch. A “Play Smithton” playground just outside the borough, which had no suitable space within. A bicycle repair station — and a kinetic bike sculpture alongside it, mounted about 33 feet high.

You’ll also find friendly people. A young girl will bicycle past you twice and say “hi” both times. Stick around and you’ll find a surprising number of festivals, parades and motorcycle rallies. You’ll also find Joy Riders, a nonprofit based here that gives free tandem bike rides in Westmoreland and Allegheny counties to people with disabilities.

“Everyone here is so nice,” says Joelle Whiteman, who opened Dale’s Place restaurant and lodgings in 2018 with her husband, Eric, capitalizing on the GAP’s growing traffic. “Everyone looks out for each other.”

Native Rosa Smithton-Boyd decamped eight years ago to a nearby farm, leaving behind an elderly uncle. Neighbors still call her to say, “Your uncle’s truck hasn’t moved. Is everything OK?”

CHRISTINE ADELE TUTENA, SMITHON’S MAYOR AND THE CO-OWNER OF THE HISTORIC ADELE’S BED AND BREAKFAST.

First  and  Center

Smithton’s story is intertwined with Adele’s Bed and Breakfast at First and Center streets. The building opened in 1893 as a hotel, tavern and dance hall and closed nearly 100 years later. It reopened in 2017, mainly to serve trail trekkers. Its hosts are Christine Adele Tutena, Smithton’s 17-year mayor and the building’s lifelong occupant, and her husband, Dan Barthels, a 24-year councilman and the third-generation director of Smithton’s 1924 funeral home.

Adele’s is named not for the hostess but her maternal grandmother, Adele Fabean Ottino, who ran Ottino’s bar here for 51 years while raising Christine. “Gram would get such a big damn kick out of people coming to her home and enjoying it again,” declares Christine, as outgoing and outspoken as Gram.

THE BAR FROM THE LANDMARK BAR OTTINO’S, WHERE GUESTS AT ADELE’S ARE NOW SERVED BREAKFAST.

Smithton goes back to the late 1700s, when Dan’s ancestors and others started farming nearby. Coal mines and coke ovens followed. The borough was incorporated in 1901.

Adele’s began as Smith House, then Jones House. In 1907, the story goes, proprietor Bill “Stoney” Jones, Shirley’s grandfather, won Eureka Brewing in a poker game and moved it to town. Locals started asking for “one of Stoney’s beers,” according to the brewery’s history on its website, and the name stuck.

In her 2013 memoir, Shirley — age 89 at this writing and living in Los Angeles — calls Smithton “a Norman Rockwell painting in living color … small, self-contained, innocent, and ideal.” (Other local notables include suffragist Hannah Patterson and wrestler Ryan Mitchell.)

As Christine likes to recount, her Gram was raised “up the holla” nearby with eight siblings and went through three husbands, No. 2 being John Ottino. In 1940, he turned Jones House into Ottino’s bar. But he was diabetic and liked to sample the merchandise. Adele warned him, “You’re not going to last 10 years.” He lasted six.

Adele kept Ottino’s going with help from family; up to 17 members occupied the building at a time. But Christine’s mother died before she turned 3. “I don’t have any memory of my mom,” says Christine. “Adele was my mom.”

Gram, as many regulars began calling her, opened the bar at 7 a.m. for night crews heading home and closed it after the 11 p.m. news. She often fed hungry customers for free. Others brought in vegetables, rabbits and giant meatballs.

Gram welcomed occasional Black visitors to this nearly all-white town. She booted intolerant or combative people but tolerated drunken ones. Men often urinated in a trough beneath the bar. A woman lost her false teeth in it. Another napped in a tub upstairs.

Locals  Linger

During those decades, families typically stayed in Smithton for generations. Bill Manack, the borough’s last barber, recalls, “You never saw a real estate sign.”

Kids roamed free, and grownups kept watch. Dan Barthels says, “If you did something, your parents knew before you got home.”

Many homes lacked garages or driveways, so cars lined the curbs. Former Mayor Robert Prah Jr. recalls, “Everyone knew who had which parking spot.”

Councilwoman Karen Primm, who runs Joy Riders, moved here 45 years ago. Soon after arriving, she went to buy a loaf of bread. “Your husband already bought one,” she was told by a worker, who already had figured out the two newcomers were a couple.

Smithton endured floods and worse. In 1907, the Darr Mine Disaster in nearby Van Meter killed 239 workers, still a Pennsylvania record. In 1982, a fire wrecked Ottino’s third floor for good.

From Ottino’s to Adele’s

Christine helped at Ottino’s for decades despite working full time as a mental health therapist for local hospitals. In 1991, with Gram’s health flagging, the bar finally shut down. “We had one hell of a closing party,” says Christine. “The whole town smelled of spaghetti sauce.”

Christine retired in 2020. Now she devotes herself to Adele’s and Smithton. The bed and breakfast’s 2,584 square feet includes richly painted walls, six guest units, a big balcony, a lush garden and plenty of memorabilia. There’s a “Couples Only” sign meant to keep single women from preying on married men. A stained-glass transom made and donated by a guest. Seasonal decor crammed into every room, even in winter, when the place is closed to the public. Photos of Shirley Jones, FDR and a United Mine Workers leader. (The proprietors are Democrats, and this old union town still leans left, though currently supporting a Smithton Republican, State Rep. Eric Davanzo.)

The trough is gone, but 39 feet of the bar’s original 53 feet survive, as does a 5-foot-tall doorway screening the kitchen — “If Danny and I had a dollar for every time we banged our heads!” Christine says.

She plies guests with homemade snacks and breakfast pastries. Dan fixes their bicycles and serves them omelets with veggies from his ancestral farm.

Online, customers extol Adele’s. “So many memories and so much character in that lovely tavern” … “Breakfast was fabulous” … “Christine regaled us with the town’s history and her family stories.”

Small  Government

The borough spends about $113,000 per year, mostly for five part-time workers. Elected officials are unpaid and usually unopposed.

In 2000, Christine volunteered to bring back Christmas lights along the town’s streets. The next year, voters surprised her by writing her in as mayor.

She and Dan say that, late in 2005’s campaign, tired of infighting, they asked to be voted out. In 2009, worried about borough spending, the spouses retook office. If anyone considers their posts in conflict, Dan says he’d gladly give his up.

Many people have given Smithton up. The population has plunged by more than half in the past 100 years. Grocery stores have dwindled from seven to one. “We try to serve the community with a little bit of everything,” says Marlene Fabean, Adele’s niece-in-law, who has tended Jack’s Meat Market and General Store for 62 years.

Stoney’s stopped brewing here in 2002. Now its roughly 40,000-square-foot complex has just a few small business tenants and some code citations. “If this were Downtown Pittsburgh,” says owner Rob McKeown, “it could have million-dollar condos.”

Prah, the former mayor, says of Smithton, “You’re tucked away, you’re trapped and you’re landlocked. There’s nowhere to grow.”

Barber Manack says, “It’s just a shame it’s on the wrong side of the river.”

Today  and  Tomorrow

But locals still seem “Smitten with Smithton,” as the borough’s website puts it. Realtor Mary Joe Popp says homes sell fast.

The hamlet is hidden but not isolated. Urban sprawl has brought many stores nearby. Interstate 70 and Route 51 are close, too.

The GAP Trail reached Smithton Beach in the 1990s and draws about 161,000 people per year. Bryan Perry, who runs the GAP Conservancy, praises the hamlet’s new offerings. “Smithton’s becoming a destination.”

Christine and Dan, childless in their 60s, say they haven’t thought about Adele’s future. As for Smithton’s future, they hope to plant more trees, pave a playground path, enhance the pollinator garden, welcome a photo studio to a long-closed opera house and make other improvements.

“I hope other businesses would take a chance here,” Christine says of the town.

Dan doesn’t want it to change too much. “I hope it keeps its small-town feel,” he says.

Grant Segall is a national prize-winning reporter who has written for The Washington Post, Cleveland Plain Dealer, Philadelphia Magazine, Time, Reuters, Science, Oxford University Press and other outlets.