SCALLOP CRUDO AT COAST & MAIN

I read somewhere (probably online, so the validity is questionable) that there are so many restaurants in New York City, a person could dine out every night for 54 years and never hit the same place twice.

Although the size of Pittsburgh’s food scene doesn’t compare to The Big Apple’s, it would take a long time to visit every local eatery.

I haven’t managed to hit every one yet, but I’m trying!

Every year, I search for spots that bring something extra to the table. There are a lot of great places to chow down in this town. Here are 25 of them that left a lasting impression and made me want to come back for more.

The List

• Alta Via Ristorante & Alta Via Pizzeria
• Apteka
• Cioppino
• Coast & Main
• Comfort & Spice
• Curbside
• Dish Osteria and Bar
• Eleven
• Fig & Ash
• Fish Nor Fowl
• Hemlock House
• LeMont
• Long Story Short
• Moonlit Burgers
• Nanban
• North Country Brew Pub
• Oak Hill Post
• Pizza Lupo
• Pusadee’s Garden
• Scratch & Co.
• Soju
• Spork
• The Vandal
• Wise County Biscuits & Cafe
• The Wood’s House Historic Pub

Best Brand Expansion

Alta Via Ristorante & Alta Via Pizzeria

Burrito Restaurant Group opened the original Alta Via Ristorante in O’Hara on April Fool’s Day 2019. Alta Via Pizzeria debuted in Larimer’s Bakery Square a few years later on April 12 — the date Pittsburghers celebrate living in the 412 area code.

Alta Via’s Market Square location opened on Oct. 26, 2023. Although no holidays fell on that Thursday, the Christmas tree at PPG Place was already up, so I indulged in bucatini and premature holiday cheer.

The approachable, modern menu is inspired by life in both the Italian Alps and California wine country. It features fresh seafood, vegetable-forward dishes, homemade pasta and gut-busting entrees, including Long Island Duck with gnocchi, Lacinato kale, fig and thyme.

The restaurant also offers weekend brunch, lunchtime sandwiches and gelato made in-house. For a more casual dining experience that’s just as filling, visit AVP. I carbo-loaded by ordering pull-apart bread made with garlic mascarpone, Pecorino Romano and red sauce followed by a rustic, hearth-baked pie topped with pepperoni, fresh mozzarella, red onion, more of that delicious Pecorino Romano, taleggio cream, chives and chili flakes. Any day that you eat at an Alta Via restaurant is a special occasion.

O’Hara Township: 46 Fox Chapel Road
412-408-3816, altaviapgh.com

Downtown: 2 PPG Place
412-408-3816

Larimer: 169 Bakery Square Blvd.
412-755-3387, altaviapizzeria.com

Best Vegan Food

Apteka

Apteka owners Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski are probably the only James Beard Award-nominated chefs to feature a special menu called Crapteka. That’s what I love about them: They serve seriously good food with a sense of humor.

For several weeks every January, the pair puts their typical Central and Eastern European fare (which is anything but ordinary) on hold and dish out vegan-friendly “junk” food. It’s all made from scratch, from the buckwheat burger patties and buns to the sunflower seed ice cream.

If you’re new to vegan cuisine, it’s a nice introduction to plant-based grub. Chances are you’ll recognize a few things on the regular menu, too, including Pittsburgh’s unofficial official dish: pierogi. I urge you to visit Apteka throughout the year to break out of your comfort food comfort zone.

Try something like the Kluski Śląskie z Kopą Warzyw and see why the James Beard Foundation thinks Lasky and Skowronski are no joke.

Bloomfield: 4606 Penn Ave.
412-251-0189, aptekapgh.com

Best Meat-and-Potatoes Restaurant

Cioppino

I’ve always been a meat-and-potatoes kind of girl, but, lately, my spud intake has skyrocketed. Cioppino’s executive chef Robert “RC” Carter also has a deep-rooted love for tubers.

“We are a seafood and steak house with a potato problem,” says Carter, who grew up in his mother’s Detroit soul food restaurant. He’s helmed the kitchen at Cioppino since 2017.

Humble taters pop up all over the all-star menu; they’re in the creamy roasted chicken soup and accompany both the halibut and the rack of lamb. If they don’t come with your entree, by all means, order them as a side, which Cioppino refers to as an “enhancement.” For brunch — served every Saturday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. — I recommend springing for the lox board, which includes a housemade potato waffle and crispy layered potatoes.

On a chilly night last October, when I was craving a hearty meal, I ordered the ultimate stick-to-your-ribs dish — beef short rib with demi-glace, Brussels sprouts and whipped potatoes that were so rich, flavorful and creamy, I wanted to immerse myself in them.

Are potato spas a thing? They should be. Cioppino’s lounge menu includes 1000 Layer Tots, thin slices of potato stacked and deep fried into bricks of crispy perfection.

I want to build a house out of them using the horseradish aioli dipping sauce as mortar and eat my way out.

Strip District: 2350 Railroad St.
412-281-6593, cioppinoofpittsburgh.com

Best Restaurant in a Mall

Coast & Main

As ’90s teens, my friends and I spent a lot of time in Monroeville Mall’s food court. We lurched around like zombies (after all, “Dawn of the Dead” was filmed there) while eating Manchu Wok samples and as many slices of Sbarro pizza as our paltry allowances could afford.

My, how times have changed.

In 2018, the shopping center welcomed Coast & Main, a gourmet seafood and chophouse where even the kid’s menu features a 4-ounce filet mignon. Now I can visit my adolescent stomping grounds, once a culinary wasteland, and order a bone-in ribeye, Chilean sea bass, lobster tail and — since I’m well over 21 — a drink at the bar!

Chef Ricky Kirsop grew up in Portland, Oregon, exploring the state’s forests and shoreline. He attended culinary school there and worked for hometown powerhouse McCormick & Schmick’s. He helped open the company’s Pittsburgh location in 2005.

Although he’s been a longtime landlubber, his love for the ocean is evident in the dishes he makes with seafood flown in daily. Catch a Pacific cod crusted in potato and parm with roasted garlic cream. At the bar, you can order crab cake sliders, salmon cakes and Tuna Tataki along with a Northwest Berry Julep.

Coast & Main is a fusion of land and sea, East and West, heart and soul. I know 16-year-old Kristy would want me to zombie-walk to the Gap for a new flannel shirt and then spring for the surf and turf.

Monroeville: 705 Mall Circle Drive
412-380-6022, coastandmain.com

Best Pop-Up Kitchen

Comfort & Spice

Comfort & Spice, a collapsible kitchen that pops up at area breweries to dish out gourmet soups and stews, might make you adopt a liquid lifestyle.

From borscht and matzah ball to Czech beef goulash and Spanish bean, Toby Vann serves comfort food from a self-designed, pallet-sized kiosk — the first of its kind in Allegheny County; it includes two professional-grade induction hotplates, a panini press, rice cooker, silicone countertops, shelving and a handwashing sink.

The structure can fit in a truck bed and be reassembled in about 30 minutes. The soup is available in to-go containers, but folks who slurp on-site can get free second helpings. I recommend staying put and diving into a bowl of tomato paprika soup served with cheesy croutons, Parmesan and herbed sour cream.

When accompanied by one of Vann’s signature grilled cheese sandwiches, it’s the kind of meal that warms the body and soul. Which is why he takes the summer off. Vann just completed a residency at Fermata Brewing Co. in Ambridge and is spending the next month in Norway studying Scandinavian food. He has big plans for Pittsburgh this fall. Take comfort in the fact that the little red soup shack will be back soon to spice things up.

Multiple Locations
instagram.com/comfortandspice_pgh

Best To-Go Grub

Curbside

Curbside is a welcome sight to motorists stuck in traffic on Route 28. You can see the rainbow-bedecked building from the highway — a beacon on a road that seems like it’s always under construction.

Take the nearest exit and head to the eatery for some exquisite to-go grub. After spending 15 years in Blawnox, Curbside moved to the bigger space last fall to offer a bigger menu. You’ll find more scratch-made baked goods, organic fruit, smoothies, yogurt parfaits and some of the nicest folks in town.

I recommend the colossal bacon, egg and cheese breakfast sandwich on toasted wheat bread. I’d endure gridlock every day for one.

O’Hara Township: 1101 Powers Run Road
412-828-9810, curbsideontherun.com

Best Romantic Restaurant

Dish Osteria and Bar

My romantic rendezvous at Dish included some fava beans and a nice Chianti. As a film geek, that thrilled me. Luckily, my girlfriend, Dre, is also a fan of “The Silence of the Lambs” and understood the reference. She basked in the cinematic glory of it all right along with me.

That’s true love, folks. The only thing that came between us that evening was a plate of Crostini di Ricotta e Fave, grilled ciabatta bread with homemade ricotta, chives and those famous little legumes.

For my main course, I ordered the housemade potato gnocchi that included Elysian Fields Pure Bred lamb shoulder, another nod to the 1991 Jonathan Demme movie, parts of which were shot in and around Pittsburgh. Dre had the cavatelli tossed in extra virgin olive oil, garlic, shallots, crushed red pepper, house made sausage, rapini, oven roasted campari tomatoes, pecorino and basil.

In a Hollywood ending, we topped off the meal with Tiramisú and Limoncello cheesecake. Even if carbo-loading by candlelight and imitating Oscar-winner Anthony Hopkins isn’t your idea of a hot date, please know that Dish owners Michele and Cindy Savoia roll out the red carpet for each one of their guests.

The place is small, so make a reservation, or try to get a sneak preview at the bar. Dish is a culinary blockbuster.

South Side: 128 S. 17th St.
412-390-2012, dishosteria.com

Best Uniquely Pittsburgh Dining Experience

Eleven

If you want to have a uniquely Pittsburgh dining experience, don some black-and-gold attire and go to Eleven.

Located in a renovated Strip District warehouse near some old railroad tracks, the restaurant’s window-filled tavern is in the shadow of a 35-foot, 4-ton Heinz ketchup bottle that stands on a pedestal outside of the neighboring Heinz History Center.

For 20 years, the towering condiment container and its twin adorned the scoreboard at Heinz Field (now Acrisure Stadium) and would tilt each time the Steelers or Panthers entered the opposing team’s red zone, an area of the gridiron between the 20-yard line and the goal line. It’s a cool view in an industrial space that, for the past two decades, has served some of the ’Burgh’s best food.

My most recent meal there was a tender pork chop accompanied by crispy grits, carrot puree, braised collard greens and rhubarb BBQ. It was a touchdown for the taste buds. I ate it so fast I was ready for dessert in a matter of minutes.

I continued with the rhubarb theme and went with strawberry rhubarb cheesecake, a perfect balance of sweet, sour, salty and creamy. Eleven’s prix-fixe brunch menu is a great way to start your day. You get an entree, app and a juice or a cocktail for $39. Order a Bloody Mary and the Eleven burger, a braised veal patty topped with black pepper bacon, crispy onions and your choice of cheese.

As you gaze out at the corner of 12th and Smallman streets, dip some fries in ketchup and raise them in a salute to good ol’ Heinz 57!

Strip District: 1150 Smallman St.
412-201-5656, elevenck.com

Best Recommendation Restaurant

Fig & Ash

When someone asks me for a restaurant recommendation, I usually say Fig & Ash. Not only have I had many wonderful meals at the Deutschtown establishment, but it’s also the first restaurant that I, as a food writer, covered from the groundbreaking to the grand opening.

Interviewing chef Cory Hughes and his team over the years has taught me a lot about the restaurant industry and the passion that’s required to make a culinary dream a reality. If it’s your first visit, someone in your party must order the short-rib-and-pork-belly meatloaf.

I’ve written entire articles about this entree and it never disappoints. It’s a Fig & Ash fixture, but other items on the seasonal menu are just as delightful and filling. On a recent date night, my girlfriend and I split the family-style plate of spaghetti with San Marzano tomato, Italian sausage, crab, bay scallops and Calabrian chili.

We also shared an order of Brussels sprouts. These green buds are often viewed as villains in the vegetable kingdom, but when prepared with black pepper honey, goat cheese and cherry, they will rule your world.

The place, including the four-season courtyard, is usually packed. If you don’t have a reservation, take a chance on the bar, where the entire “farm-to-flame” menu is available fresh out of the wood-fired oven.

We snagged two seats and had a wonderful conversation with the bartender about astrology. A return trip to Fig & Ash is written in the stars.

North Side: 514 East Ohio St.
412-321-2222, figandashpgh.com

Best Comeback

Fish Nor Fowl

I’ve been in love with this Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group eatery since it opened in 2018. When the pandemic started, it closed its doors and — aside from hosting a few holiday pop-ups — remained shuttered until Valentine’s Day 2023.

I’m still head-over-heels for Fish Nor Fowl. The name, taken from an old Norwegian saying, means, “hard to classify.” I guess you could call the place a rustically modern, Italian-inspired open kitchen with a floor-to-ceiling plant wall that’ll make you think spring, a second floor with a wintry hunting lodge aesthetic and a patio with distinctly summer vibes.

Last fall, like a bear preparing to hibernate, I ate a loaf of buckwheat focaccia and an autumnal manicotti highlighted by butternut squash, ricotta, brown butter and sage. In the springtime, you’ll find a nice assortment of small plates such as shrimp mixed with garlic, white wine, lemon, cherry tomatoes and pickled celery and bigger helpings of seafood linguine and chicken parm.

Just go there and — I promise — it’ll all make sense.

Garfield: 5523 Penn Ave.
412-460-4644, fishnorfowlpgh.com

Best Menu for the Adventurous Eater

Hemlock House

At Hemlock House, owner Josh Sickels and chef Mike Allison have created a quirky spot that shrieks “Twin Peaks” and has a no-holds-barred menu. Like the cult television series from the ’90s, it takes a lot of unexpected turns.

Uni bucatini, an Italian-sushi mashup, is a mouthwatering mix of uni (the edible part of a sea urchin) and sake cream sauce, stracciatella, black masago, bucatini and American Grana cheese. You’ll find snacks, handhelds, small and large plates and desserts, and adventurous early birds can enjoy a weekend brunch that includes pork belly hash and andouille benedict.

There aren’t too many Pittsburgh eateries offering duck burgers. The patty, a mix of duck breast and beef fat, is topped with micro greens, Luxardo cherries, caramelized onions and Boursin cheese on a challah bun. Save room for corn-battered hushpuppies, consisting of lump crab and diced slab bacon topped with scallions, fish sauce and bonito flakes.

Pair those pups with a glass of Sloop John B., a mix of Beefeater Gin, lime, raspberry preserves and Dogfish Head SeaQuench Ale. Hemlock House is a bastion for irreverent eats and cocktails and boasts one of the best bar playlists around. (In addition to running Rockaway Pizza in White Oak, Sickels is in the local band Animal Scream.)

I’m a firm believer that nursing a strong cocktail in a dark, atmospheric bar with a killer soundtrack and off-kilter food is good for the soul.

Swissvale: 1126 S. Braddock Ave.
412-660-2742, hemlockhousepgh.com

Best Place to Take an Out-of-Town Guest

LeMont

LeMont used to intimidate me with its marble floors, chandeliers, maître d’ and rack of lamb. It seemed a little too fancy pants for this threadbare food writer. When I learned that LeMont’s new executive chef was a guy from my homebase in Plum, I took it as a sign and made a reservation.

You can find Michael Campbell’s seasonal offerings — including Lobster Boursin Flatbread and Firecracker Shrimp — mixed in with signature dishes such as Steak Diane and Chateaubriand for Two (both prepared tableside), roasted raspberry duck and lemon herb airline chicken.

Related: Have a Monstrously Good Meal at LeMont

Longtime employee Tom Zastawny whipped up a Caesar salad right next to me, gleefully tossing hearts of Romaine with anchovies, mustard, pasteurized egg yolks, lemon, garlic, imported Parmesan cheese and seasoned croutons. It’s the first time this carnivore has been wowed by a salad.

Since 1983, Zastawny’s tableside showmanship has dazzled patrons, including celebrity guests Johnny Carson, Wayne Gretzky, Jake Gyllenhaal, Michael Douglas, Frances McDormand, Kate Hudson and Robert Downey Jr. (on his birthday). My job allows me to eat at a lot of different places, from fast-casual concepts and pop-up kitchens to trendy hot spots and food trucks.

At 64 years old, LeMont is a throwback that adapts to the ever-changing dining scene without losing its identity. And that view of the city skyline made me fall in love with Pittsburgh all over again.

Mount Washington: 1114 Grandview Ave.
412-431-3100, lemontpittsburgh.com

Best Brewery Food

Long Story Short

Once upon a time, Cinderlands Beer Co. opened a taproom in Lawrenceville that served Belgian pub cuisine. Last summer, in a huge plot twist, the brewery owners decided to revamp the Butler Street spot into Long Story Short.

The laidback sandwich joint has a retro rumpus room in the back and an arcade on the mezzanine level that’s plastered with posters of movies I love. The place is one big honkin’ slice of nostalgia and, like a lot of Gen Xers, that’s what I’m craving these days.

You might think the menu is a work of fiction with items such as the Meatball Mac Melt, two pieces of Texas Toast piled with smashed meatballs in a cheesy marinara sauce and yellow mustard, macaroni noodles and Doritos. But it’s real and it’s rad!

There are also classic burgers, tuna melts and Italian subs on Mancini’s bread. The spot is great for tots, and by that I mean the deep-fried potato variety. Pair your extremely happy meal with a Cinderlands brew (Lil’ Cinder Light Beer cans are $3 all day, everyday) or a cocktail and then go shoot some pool and play tabletop Ms. Pac-Man.

Long story short, go to Long Story Short.

Lawrenceville: 3705 Butler St.
412-251-0656, cinderlands.com/locations/long-story-short

Best Restaurant for Kids

Moonlit Burgers

If you’ve got young kids, college kids or you’re just a big kid at heart, Moonlit Burgers is the space for you. The company — known for its famous smash burgers — has colorful eateries in Dormont and on Duquesne University’s Uptown campus, plus a food truck cheekily named the Patty Wagon.

Who doesn’t love a rolling dad joke? I guess you could say owners Mike McCoy and Derek Stevens have the gourmet fast-food model down pat(ty).

The culinary playground also has a fried chicken sandwich so stacked it seems to defy gravity, as well as pickle-brined poultry strips, chili, shoestring fries, chocolate chip cookies, Millie’s soft serve ice cream and salads that you can nutritionally destroy with a smash patty. (That’s the kind of power move I dreamed of making when my parents told me to eat my veggies in the ’80s.)

Both stationary locations have full bars slinging beer, wine, cocktails, shots and boozy shakes. You have to be at least 21 to enjoy those, of course. Please, drink like a responsible adult even if you’re eating like a kid.

Dormont: 1426 Potomac Ave.
Uptown: 1023 Forbes Ave.
moonlitburgers.com

Best Place to Spice Up Your Life

Nanban

Nanban is a BYOB restaurant that specializes in five-alarm Asian soul food. I suggest you bring a few gallons of milk or just pull up out front in a fire truck.

Several years ago owner Roger Li combined two of his popular eateries — Ki Ramen and Ki Pollo — into one counter-service establishment that loves to bring the heat. Set your mouth ablaze with fried chicken, bao and Inferno Ramen that will boil your brain cells in the best possible way.

My fav, the Hot Chicken Sando, is an absolute scorcher with thighs dipped in chili oil, Bibb lettuce, rayu pickles, kewpie mayo and lazi seasoning. My lips are still burning from when I ate one on my 45th birthday in December.

I did not need to wear a coat or mittens that day. There was more fire in one bite than on the top of my cake.

Lawrenceville: 4407 Butler St.
412-224-2518, nanbanpgh.com

Best Road Trip Restaurant

North Country Brew Pub

PHOTO BY HUCK BEARD

In 2005, North Country Brew Pub opened in Slippery Rock, a convenient spot for when I need to rest my weary bones after hiking a small section of the 4,800-mile North Country Scenic Trail, which runs through nearby McConnells Mill State Park.

The Main Street building, erected in 1805, was formerly Uber and Sons Undertakers and Furniture Dealers. My beer-lovin’ skeleton feels at home there. Bob and Jodi McCafferty bought the place in 1998 and lived in the historical, reportedly haunted, structure while bringing it back to life.

They filled the space and rustic outdoor areas with a whimsical assortment of odds and ends. My daughter and I discover something new each time we visit, which is often. Bob’s an archeologist by trade and a hippie at heart. That playfulness is infused in the food, drink and decor. There’s an assortment of sandwiches for herbivores, including the mushroom-laden Fungus Amongus.

Carnivores can feast on the Porky sandwich, lightly smoked pork roast, slow-roasted in the company’s Paleo IPA and slathered in Paleo IPA BBQ sauce. Wash it down with a Paleo IPA draft, one of North Country’s other tasty brews or a house-made root beer, cream soda or ginger ale.

All of the pasta dishes can be made with gluten-free “impasta” noodles and most menu items can be prepared with plant-based protein options. It’s nice to lose yourself in nature, especially when it’s on your plate.

Slippery Rock: 141 S. Main St.
724-794-BEER (2337), northcountrybrewing.com

Best Breakfast

Oak Hill Post

Oak Hill Post is like a foodie version of the bar in “Cheers” — everybody knows your name. Even a house plant on the counter has been dubbed “Keanu Leaves.” And while they don’t serve alcohol, my girlfriend and I feel like the Norm and Cliff of this Brookline establishment when we show up to chow down.

Dre likes to switch things up on the food front — sometimes she opts for the breakfast burrito filled with eggs, cheese, sausage gravy, biscuit bites and harissa. On the next visit (which is often the following day), she might go with fried chicken on a biscuit or bacon, eggs and latkes.

For me it’s always the same: Creme Brulee Griddled French Toast, scrambled eggs, roasted beets topped with goat cheese and dill, a biscuit with lemon curd and a few bites of whatever Dre’s eating. That’s my favorite meal in Pittsburgh.

Brookline: 600 Brookline Blvd.
412-254-2970, oakhillpost.com

Best To-Go Pizza

Pizza Lupo

As professional firefighters for the City of Pittsburgh, brothers Travis and Brad Wolff put out infernos for a living — but they’re heating up Lawrenceville with their pizza.

Pizza Lupo (that’s Italian for “wolf”) grew out of Travis’ dedication to dough. Fascinated by ancient bread-making techniques, he began experimenting at home with sourdough starters way before it became the go-to pandemic hobby. Bread became his passion.

The dough is consistently hydrated, giving the crust a nice crunchy outside with a bite that you can really sink your canines into. The ingredients are always fresh and flavorful. Travis is on dough detail, of course, and Brad is the guy in charge of the sauces, sandwiches and pastas.

I once went outside my comfort zone and ordered the Tropic Thunder, one of Lupo’s specialty pizzas, most of which are available in sizes small, large and grandma-style. My selection featured crushed tomato sauce, smoked mozzarella, Broadbent’s bacon, jalapeño, shaved red onion, chili oil and … pineapple. I’ve always scoffed at this topping for reasons unknown, but, on a spicy pie that’s a five-alarm fire, the sweetness helped soothe this savage beast.

With help from family members, the Wolff pack is cranking out pies and placing them in inside-out pizza boxes Tuesday through Saturday. Aside from a few stools near the front window, this pizza den is a to-go establishment.

I got a vodka pie to go and turned the front seat of my car into a Best Restaurant.

Lawrenceville: 5123 Butler St.
412-782-9922, pizza-lupo.com

Best Outdoor Dining

Pusadee’s Garden

Last summer, I went on a camping trip with my girlfriend. We spent two days in the Ohio wilderness eating Doritos, s’mores and hot dogs cooked over an open flame. It was like the foodie version of “Survivor.” We were craving a gourmet meal upon our return to civilization but didn’t want to completely ditch The Great Outdoors vibe. Pusadee’s Garden was a vacation from our vacation.

The Thai restaurant is located in Upper Lawrenceville, but you’ll forget you’re on Butler Street as soon as you step inside. The dishes, like the building, are beautiful and lush. The menu could’ve been written by Henry David Thoreau, including such items as locally foraged ramps, stir-fried morning glory and bok choy with bear’s tooth, lion’s mane and oyster mushrooms.

I’m a spice girl, so I always have the server lead me to the heat. Beef tenderloin with holy basil, garlic, chilis and sweet and spicy bell peppers is a heavenly choice for hot heads, and the jungle curry full of chicken, kabocha squash, banana peppers and basil is a flavorful burn. Cool down with a cocktail or non-alcoholic alternative such as Give it a Chai, a simple concoction of chai, ginger and lemon.

If you can’t get a seat in the courtyard oasis (make those special occasion reservations early!), you can still bask in its beauty while dining indoors, including at the bar, which is encased in a big, glass box. Consider it a culinary trophy case.

Chef Busaba Tongdee was nominated for a James Beard Award this year. Book a stay at Pusadee’s this summer and you’ll know why.

Lawrenceville: 5319 Butler St.
412-252-2683, pusadeesgarden.com

Best Neighborhood Joint

Scratch & Co.

The good people at Scratch & Co. have gone out of their way to create a meatball sandwich that is structurally sound and won’t leave you wearing and seeing red.

Topped with mozzarella cheese and nestled between two airy slabs of house-made focaccia, the Meatballloaf comes with a sidecar of sauce for dipping. This is just one of Scratch’s great contributions to society. The Troy Hill cafe and pub, a favorite among epicureans since its 2015 debut, not only serves amazing meals, it also serves the community as a whole.

During the pandemic, owner Don Mahaney switched to a pay-what-you-can business model that included a small market. Now the restaurant is gearing up for a summer of fun, approachable food and fundraisers to support the Allegheny YMCA. The century-old North Side building, which includes 88 single rooms for low-income men, is getting a multimillion-dollar upgrade.

Meanwhile, Scratch’s brunch, dinner and bar menus have all gotten a boost. They’re a team effort between multiple chefs who put an emphasis on high-quality, locally sourced ingredients and let the food do the talking. A sign in the collaborative kitchen reads, “It’s about the food, stupid.” Dining at Scratch is always a smart decision.

Look for Mystic Mondays that feature tarot card readers, psychics, guest bartenders and a build-your-own Millie’s ice cream sundae bar with a portion of the proceeds going to the Y. Why? Because it’s the neighborly thing to do.

Troy Hill: 1720 Lowrie St.
412-251-0822, scratchandcopgh.com

Best Place to Make New Friends

Soju

Soju is a small Korean-American restaurant and bar in Garfield. For six years, chef Simon Chough has run the intimate space where local artwork adorns the walls, pop-up chefs can showcase their menus and it’s easy to strike up a conversation with your fellow diners.

When a massive cocktail arrived at my table, the people next to me oohed and aahed and inquired about it. The Soju Punch, I explained, was a mix of soju — a Korean rice liquor similar to vodka — Maggie’s Farm White Rum, pineapple, mango, pomegranate, ginger, Yakuroto yogurt and soda.

It’s served in a glass that looks more like a punch bowl, so it’s definitely an attention-grabber. Their dinner piqued my interest: A spicy chicken sandwich, fries seasoned with nori (dried seaweed) and BiBimBap, a mixed rice bowl with spinach, bean sprouts, mushrooms, spicy cucumber and egg.

In between sipping and chewing, we had a nice conversation. The couple had just moved to Pittsburgh from Atlanta and were thrilled that a family-owned restaurant was just a few blocks away from their new home in Friendship. If they hadn’t already been full by the time my entree arrived, I would’ve gladly shared.

I was already up to my eyeballs in Tteokbokki, a popular Korean street food made up of chewy, stir-fried rice cakes. My Korean BBQ combo gave me three, thinly sliced, marinated meat options: Kalbi (beef short rib), Bulgogi (beef tenderloin) and Dwaejibulgogi (pork tenderloin) served with rice and banchan.

The dish is a balancing act of sweet, salty, savory and spicy. There’s something in it for everyone. I can say the same about Soju.

Garfield: 4923 Penn Ave.
412-450-8968, simonchough.wixsite.com/sojupgh

Best Mood-Boosting Restaurant

Spork

I went to Spork in the dead of winter, when everything, including my mood, was dark and gloomy. I left feeling lighter — even if I gained a few pounds during the visit.

Eating at the Bloomfield restaurant snaps me out of whatever seasonal funk I’m in. It starts with the amuse-bouche, teeny-tiny, on-the-house hors d’oeuvres. The French term translates to “mouth amusement”; in Pittsburghese it means “Kennywood fer yer taste buds.”

James Beard Award-nominated chef Christian Frangiadis’ menu evolves daily because fresh ingredients are key (and also pricey, so expect to open your wallet a little wider), but there are staple dishes that never disappoint, from the seared scallops with truffle sauce to the bolognese.

Spork has a garden in the lot next door, so chances are the fresh dill in your dinner and nasturtiums decorating the plate were picked the same day. You can check the space out this fall during the annual Pittsburgh Urban Farm Tour.

The restaurant pays just as much attention to its beverages, including the ones without booze. Summon the Cocktail Cart and watch an expert hand-craft a classic cocktail tableside. I had the Old Fashioned, but it was fun to watch my date sip a boozy house specialty from a parrot-shaped mug.

At the time, The Phoenix, a fruity rum concoction, was Spork’s rotating charity cocktail. Five bucks from each bird went to service industry workers affected by the wildfires in Hawaii. Like the utensil it’s named after, Spork comes in handy in pretty much any situation.

Bloomfield: 5430 Penn Ave.
412-441-1700, sporkpittsburgh.com

Best Place to Become a Foodie

The Vandal

If you want to introduce someone to Pittsburgh’s upscale dining scene or you’d like to expand your own palate, The Vandal is a good place to start.

It’s small, with a minimalist decor, but the flavors, made with simple ingredients by chef Joey Hilty, are big and bold. Before a visit in February, my 18-year-old dinner guest was worried she wouldn’t be able to find anything at the “fancy” restaurant that could satisfy her hunger better than McDonald’s. She was happy to see chips and French onion dip on the menu.

Baked ricotta was also a safe bet, along with fresh bread, of course. That’s where we started. We ended with a bourbon-soaked toffee cake and vanilla panna cotta. All the plates were licked clean. In between the apps and dessert, we shared lobster bucatini, a pork chop with pumpkin mostarda and a hanger steak accompanied by twice-fried frites and garlic aioli dip.

It was all recognizable and approachable, even if the wording on the menu did strike fear in the heart of the novice fine diner. “What is mostarda anyway?” she asked. (Turns out it’s an Italian condiment made with fruit and mustard.)

Weekly specials include upscale takes on familiar favorites such the Thursday night cheeseburger dripping with gruyere, caramelized onions, aioli, pickles and peppery au poivre sauce. If you want a crash course on oysters, well, shucks, The Vandal serves ‘em up chilled on Wednesdays.

Intimidated by trendy booze? The restaurant’s bar seats only five, but it has a robust vino program specializing in natural and biodynamic wines, a rotating menu of signature cocktails and a proper Martini Service featuring Hendricks Gin, Noilly Prat French Vermouth, Castelvetrano olives, lemon and caviar.

Fledgling foodies might be shaken at first, but eventually they will be stirred.

Lawrenceville: 4306 Butler St.
412-251-0465, thevandalpgh.com

Best Pop-Up Turned Brick-and-Mortar

Wise County Biscuits & Cafe

For James Wolfe, buttermilk biscuits taste like home. His grandma, who hailed from Wise County, Virginia, taught him the basics of country cookin’.

Made with King Arthur Flour and local buttermilk and butter (grandma used lard), Wise County biscuits are a big, flaky homage to those Appalachian roots. And so is the new cafe. Late last year, after doing pop-ups around town since 2017, Wolfe and his wife, Lena Laskaris, settled their business into a counter-service eatery on the North Side.

The space is bright and cheerful with country-chic decor. I think the down-home atmosphere makes folks here more neighborly.

The menu features an array of breakfast plates, lunch options and sides (their home fries get my professional stamp of approval). The stars of the show are the biscuits, which, while flaky, don’t become a cascade of crumbs when you pick them up. You can get ‘em topped with either seasonal jam, pimento cheese, honey and butter or Tennessee sorghum.

They’ve got heft, so they can serve as sandwich buns, too. The best-selling Your Way gives patrons a fried egg and their choice of two toppings, from breakfast meat to braised greens. I’m a fan of Sallie’s Snack, a sammie with pimento cheese, a fried egg and Chow Chow, a condiment made from pickled veggies that I would happily eat by the truckload.

The cafe opens at 7:30 a.m. Wednesday through Monday. Wake up, y’all! It’s time yinz got wise to this restaurant.

North Side: 911 Galveston Ave.
412-330-1389, wisecountybiscuits.com

Best Historical Restaurant

The Wood’s House Historic Pub

As a food writer and a history buff, I love everything about The Woods House Historic Pub, a Scottish-style tavern that’ll take you back in time. It’s located in a residential section of Hazelwood because it was a residence, built in 1792 by Col. George Woods, the surveyor who laid out Pittsburgh’s Golden Triangle.

The stone structure — one of the oldest still standing in the area — was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1993. It’s a unique experience to dine in a relic that has weathered the rise and fall of the steel industry and now overlooks Hazelwood Green, a 178-acre brownfield along the Monongahela River that’s being redeveloped into a technological, environmental and cultural hub.

Once you’ve digested all the fun facts about the building’s past, get ready to dig into some hearty dishes, starting with a batch of classic Scotch Eggs, hard-boiled eggs wrapped in pork sausage, flash fried and served with brown mustard aioli. The historical proof is also in the black pudding, blood sausage, mashed potatoes, roasted peas and parsnips dripping with savory onion gravy.

Other classics include Guinness pot roast mac-and-cheese, fish and chips and steamed mussels in a creamy shallot broth served with crostini bread. And, of course, there’s a nice selection of Scotch to wet your whistle.

There are two floors and both are worth exploring. I dined on the bottom level, where a large fireplace gives the room a medieval vibe that’ll make you want to eat your leftovers while watching “Braveheart.”

Hazelwood: 4604 Monongahela St.
412-251-0894, woodshousepgh.com

Pittsburgh restaurants are moving through a period of transition, resetting and restructuring. So this year, I’ve dialed back the Best Restaurants list to 25 establishments.

What was I looking for when I compiled this list? The sole fundamental qualification to be included on the list is that the restaurant must have opened by the end of the previous calendar year. Then, as I always do, I start by asking:  “Does this restaurant fulfill its intention exceptionally?”

The List

Click on the restaurant you want to check out first or continue scrolling through the entire list.

• 40 North at Alphabet City
• Alta Via
• Apteka
• Back to the Foodture
• Bar Marco
• Casbah
• Chengdu Gourmet
• DiAnoia’s Eatery
• Dish Osteria
• Driftwood Oven
• Eleven Contemporary Kitchen
• Everyday Noodles
• Fig & Ash
• Gi-Jin
• Ladybird’s Luncheonette
• Mola
• Morcilla
• Oak Hill Post
• Pusadee’s Garden
• Sakura Teppanyaki and Sushi
• Salem’s Market and Grill
• Senti
• Spork
• Taiwanese Bistro Cafe 33
• Udipi Cafe
• Fet Fisk (Best Pop-Up)
• stuntpig (Best Food Truck)
  

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Delicious food must be at the forefront. Whether it’s dumplings, lentils or duck, the best restaurants delight us with what they are serving. Service played a more prominent role in my rubric this year than it did last year, too. One of the things that drew me to several of these restaurants was seeing management and longtime employees helping newcomers learn the ropes.

Despite the headwinds, these restaurants found a way to thrive. Long-standing establishments leaned into systems knowledge to weather the continuing storm of uncertainty. Newcomers brought needed energy and creativity into our dining landscape. Chefs tuned into their culinary visions. Pittsburgh’s international restaurant owners continued to grow confident expressing their voices.

It didn’t happen in a bubble.

Organizations such as Pittsburgh Restaurant Workers Aid and the Pittsburgh chapter of the United States Bartenders’ Guild redoubled efforts to educate, assist and advocate for hospitality industry employees. Our region’s farmers expanded their fields, extended their growing seasons and produced an ever-increasing array of flavorful crops.

The year was marked with significantly more tumult and uncertainty than anybody expected. The delta and omicron variants spurred spikes in COVID-19 cases, forcing establishments to augment operating hours. Staffing shortages got worse. That’s ebbed somewhat, but restaurateurs now need to train a new generation of hospitality staff. There were supply chain issues across the board, and inflation like we haven’t seen in decades meant price hikes at restaurants around town.

We lost some fantastic restaurants that would have had a strong case for inclusion on this list had they remained open. Other longtime stalwarts are working through a transformational phase with their menu, service or overarching philosophy, or a mix of those factors. I expect that most of those establishments will find the right footing over the next year. I certainly hope so.

Most of us have returned to dining in-person at restaurants. Once we did so, we were reminded of how much a visit can add to our lives. Restaurants are a place of connection. We gather with our friends and families or take a moment for ourselves. Restaurants allow us to explore new flavors, savor long-standing favorites and appreciate the artistry of a chef cooking with perspective. And it sure is nice just to feel taken care of, too.

It remains, by any standard, a challenging time for Pittsburgh restaurants. Yet I continue to be hopeful for the future. There’s vibrancy and creativity and a desire to push forward. I believe that things will be moving along at a faster clip by this time next year. For now, let’s celebrate what’s offered by these excellent establishments.

These are the 25 Best Restaurants in Pittsburgh.

40 North at Alphabet City

The year-old 40 North at Alphabet City brought welcome energy to the city when it revived the dormant restaurant space in the City of Asylum’s North Side building, where it shares space with a performance venue and an independent bookstore. It’s a place for vibrant conversation (or for you and your book of the moment) where you’ll get a wholesome meal, peppy-yet-professional service and an upbeat atmosphere.

Leading the charge is executive chef Bethany Zozula. She earned a nod as a 2022 James Beard Award Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic semifinalist (her second) for 40 North’s Western Pennsylvania foodways-rooted menu. Start with one of Zozula’s salads, which always pop with the season, even in winter. Be sure to ask about the lamb specials; Zozula’s connection to the region’s agricultural producers extends to bringing in at least one whole halal lamb every week. The ribeye is one of the few pricey items on a generally reasonably priced menu, but it’s locally raised and always cooked just as it should be. Vegetarian diners are well taken care of with thoughtfully prepared dishes such as falafel, beets and yogurt, khachapuri and those aforementioned salads.

North Side  40 W. North Ave.
412/435-1111, 40northpgh.com

Alta Via

Although it’s only three years old, the O’Hara restaurant already feels like a longtime Pittsburgh fixture. Alta Via’s sprawling-yet-intimate-feeling dining room — and its lovely square bar — offers a relaxing, easy-to-love experience that’s a boon for a part of town that needed a dining boost. The restaurant is also a destination for eaters further afield. Longtime Casbah executive chef Dustin Gardner crossed the Allegheny River last year to step in as Alta Via’s executive, tightening up the wood-fired large plate section of the menu. I’m a big fan of the restaurant’s vegetable dishes, which are always made with attention to detail and just enough nuance to bring out the best flavors and textures of the plants. In addition, Alta Via’s plates of pasta are some of the best in town — I suggest taking the option for a half-portion so you can try a few of them on the same visit.

Big Burrito launched an offshoot with Alta Via Pizzeria in Bakery Square in Larimer in March. You’ll find tray and round pizza variations, plus some of the pasta and sides that make the original Alta Via one of our Best Restaurants. Early next year, a second location of Alta Via will spring up in Downtown’s Market Square.

O’Hara  46 Fox Chapel Road
412/408-3816, altaviapgh.com

Apteka

Apteka chefs/owners Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski earned a well-deserved first nod from the James Beard Awards as semifinalists in the Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic category this year, as the duo continued to dive deeper into an exploration of how Eastern- and Central-European culinary traditions, Western Pennsylvania foodways and a vegan philosophy intersect into utterly delicious meals. While some menu staples such as pierogi have remained since the early days of Apteka, Lasky and Skowronski’s offerings are significantly more dynamic now. Lest this all seem a little serious, there is also a lot of merrymaking. Crapteka, the establishment’s annual January play on fast food, features housemade plant-based burgers, an array of marvelous dipping sauces and a mind-blowing sunflower-based milkshake.

I was thrilled when Lasky and Skowronski reopened a renovated dining room in July, and its backyard garden is a draw for a fun warm-weather meal. Apteka’s bar program is one of Pittsburgh’s most ambitious — housemade cordials bolster one-of-a-kind cocktails (and also are available for sipping as-is, which you should try), its deep natural and biodynamic wine list rivals any in town and the beer list features a selection of European bottles you won’t find anywhere else in Pittsburgh. Those who choose not to imbibe will appreciate the non-alcoholic drinks list, which is as detailed as the boozy one.

Bloomfield  ​​4606 Penn Ave.
aptekapgh.com

Back to the Foodture

It’s been a treat to see Back To The Foodture, Angel and Edward Magwood’s hamburger and wing joint, mature into a new phase with a move last May from its original Pitcairn location to a prominent position in South Side Works. The establishment’s narrow dining room has a luncheonette vibe (and limited seating) where you can power through a dozen wings while appreciating the ebullient Edward Magwood’s collection of nostalgic knickknacks. There’s also outdoor seating in the warmer months, and you can bring your bites over to the nearby square.

Angel Magwood is Back To The Foodture’s head chef. Every time I visit, I’m in awe of how she can throw together so many permutations of hamburgers and wings (38 burgers and 154 wings, plus 18 hot dogs and 26 fries) yet have them (almost) all ring scrumptious. So here’s what I suggest: go for a burger such as Dusty Rhodes (Provolone, crispy onion, bacon, sliced wing dust chips, Carolina sauce) or a wild one such as 504 Boy (Ghost pepper cheese, jalapeno, onion, coconut habanero sauce) and then get a mix of dry and wet wings ranging from mild to hot.

South Side  2767 E. Carson St.
instagram.com/back2thefoodture

Bar Marco

The evolution of Bar Marco is one of the most vibrant success stories of Pittsburgh’s modern-era dining boom. The Italian-influenced Strip District restaurant turned 10 in January, and chef/owner Justin Steel continues to find nuance in his let-the-ingredients-speak-first perspective with top-notch housemade pasta, perfectly cooked and simply dressed seasonal vegetables and larger-format dishes such as milk-braised pork with sage and lemon.

Bar Marco’s hospitality-forward team kept diners in good cheer (speaking of merriment, the beverage program here is always a crowd-pleaser) in a tented area for much of 2021 prior to reopening its intimate dining room this January. As of press time, the establishment is offering a two-course $45 menu, including a starter such as Tuscan onion soup and a pasta, meat or fish main course, with a “bonus pasta” available. Always get the bonus pasta at Bar Marco.

Strip District 2216 Penn Ave.
412/471-1900, barmarcopgh.com

Casbah

In a year of significant upheaval in the hospitality industry, Casbah’s management trained new staff members to seamlessly keep pace with expectations in a restaurant known for its consistency. Indeed, the Shadyside restaurant thrives because of its fine-tuned systems, some of which are obvious and some of which take place behind the scenes. As a result, Casbah is one of those places where you’ll have the same well-taken-care-of experience if you are a Wednesday night regular, haven’t visited for years (or even a decade) or are there for the first time to celebrate a special occasion.

Casbah’s pasta, fish and roasted meat selections are always a solid choice, but I’ll also steer you to the excellent vegetable cooking. The big Burrito group continues to source better and better local ingredients every year, and the chefs here know what to do with them. Look at seasonal selections such as spring salad with tender greens, fava beans, green garbanzo beans, watermelon radish, avocado tahina, benne seeds and white balsamic vinaigrette and English pea and fava bean ravioli with preserved lemon butter, sunflower shoots and sumac — and don’t skip the vegetables served on the side of those main courses, either.

Shadyside 229 S. Highland Ave.
412/661-5656, casbah.kitchen

Chengdu Gourmet

I missed feasting around the large table in the back corner of Chengdu Gourmet’s subterranean Squirrel Hill dining room more than I missed any other singular Pittsburgh dining experience during the various stages of the coronavirus pandemic. Reveling in a shared meal around a parade of dishes ranging from soul-satisfying to mind-numbing hot is a friendship-building experience I highly recommend experiencing with people close to you. If you’re new to Sichuan cuisine, start with classic dishes such as cumin lamb, Chongqing beef hot pot and pickled vegetables, and then ask the Chengdu Gourmet staff to help round out your meal.

Executive chef/owner Wei Zhu earned his fifth consecutive James Beard Award Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic semifinalist nomination this year, and it’s well deserved. Rather than sit on his laurels, he continues his journey toward mastering the art of Sichuan cuisine, introducing new dishes such as beef filet in an electrifying green Sichuan peppercorn sauce while honing in on his interpretations of the canonical items. Look for a second, larger location of Chengdu Gourmet on McKnight Road in Ross this year.

Squirrel Hill 5840 Forward Ave.
412/521-2088, chengdugourmetpittsburgh.com

DiAnoia’s Eatery

DiAnoia’s Eatery is always humming. Over the last year, the Strip District restaurant fully reopened for breakfast, lunch and dinner service. Whichever meal you pick for a visit, you will get top-notch, informed service at the high-energy space. What I love about DiAnoia’s is how it blends a classic, red-sauce Italian-American joint with contemporary Italian culinary influences. I also appreciate how owners Dave Anoia and Aimee DiAndrea aren’t above delivering a little Instagrammable pizzazz with dishes such as gnocchi pumpkin bowl — that’s a whole pumpkin filled with gnocchi, pumpkin cream sauce, mozzarella and nutmeg.

My suggestion for dinner is to share a seasonal salad and a few of the restaurant’s outstanding pasta selections, such as rigatoni al forno and capellini alla vongole, then dive into a main dish such as the luscious porchetta and drippings served with a slab of focaccia. I’m into the vast array of hot and cold panini offered at lunch (the veal parmesan is excellent) and am glad there’s a small selection of lunchtime pasta dishes now available, too.

Strip District 2549 Penn Ave.
412/918-1875, dianoiaseatery.com

Dish Osteria

Pittsburgh’s restaurant world felt a little more complete when Dish Osteria reopened in late September 2021. The 22-year-old South Side gem had remained shuttered longer than nearly any Pittsburgh restaurant that intended to reopen, so it was cause for celebration when Michele and Cindy Savoia (and almost the entire pre-pandemic staff) welcomed guests into their cozy Sicilian restaurant and bar. Dining at Dish, whether you’re a longtime regular (they are legion) or a first-time visitor, is a portal into the importance restaurants have in connecting us in a way that you’re not going to share over a Zoom happy hour.

Put your trust in Michele Savoia’s straightforward southern Italian cuisine. Begin with a seasonal salad — even through the cooler months, Savoia worked with farmer Jason “Joddo” Oddo to bring in locally grown vegetables such as punchy puntarelle and bitter chicories — and a fish such as grilled sardines. Get whatever soup is in season — in winter it might be earthy maccu di fave (fava bean soup) and in spring bright and pungent stinging nettles and ramps. Then, split a couple of pasta dishes; stuff-your-face-indulgent rigatoni alla scamorza is always on my must-get list. Go back to fish for the main course, or perhaps the crispy and lovely grilled quail. Finish with a few bites from the dessert menu plus a glass of a digestif from Dish’s extensive amari list.

South Side 128 S. 17th St.
412/390-2012, dishosteria.com

Driftwood Oven

Like a well-tended sourdough starter, Driftwood Oven adapted to its environment and grew stronger over the past year. After closing his Lawrenceville dining room in 2020, chef/owner Neil Blazin expanded the establishment’s kitchen space to bolster its roster of baked goods (a small dine-in area and some outdoor seating are still available). Now, every weekend bakery manager Alaina Phillips brings a celebration of craveable creations consisting of croissants, cruffins, cookies and cinnamon rolls to Pittsburgh. All the leavened items offered at Driftwood Oven are prepared with a natural starter, which adds a hint of pleasant, tangy roundness to the goods.

On the savory side, Driftwood Oven’s 16-inch round pies and its Roman-style trays are among the few on the peak of Pittsburgh’s pizza pyramid. Go for something straightforward, such as classic cheese or pepperoni, or dig into a seasonal or specialty pie — whatever route you choose, the pie will be well-balanced. This year, one of the more excellent changes is that the bakery’s Roman-style pizza is now also available by the cut. On top of it all, Driftwood Oven’s menu of shareables, sides, salads and sandwiches likely would merit the restaurant’s inclusion on this list even if that was all it served.

Lawrenceville 3615 Butler St.
412/251-0253, driftwoodoven.com

Eleven Contemporary Kitchen

The thing I dig most about Eleven Contemporary Kitchen is how it’s in a constant state of slow evolution. Things never change too drastically at the Strip District restaurant, yet it always seems to be the right fit for the time. There are menu staples such as nicely cooked scallops, salmon, chicken and a couple of beef dishes, but they swap the accompanying side sets often enough to keep things lively. For example, take the scallops from a few months back — the black garlic puree, white asparagus, peas, fava beans, radish and toasted shallot-pink peppercorn vinaigrette spoke to the early spring weather.

Everything else at Eleven is framed with friendly formality. You will find one of the most professional front-of-house crews in Pittsburgh, led by a team of longstanding managers, servers, hosts and bartenders and rounded out by the next generation of Pittsburgh’s hospitality industry. The restaurant boasts an excellent wine list and a comfortable, upscale design. That, alongside a menu just about anyone can dig, makes Eleven one of the top spots in town for an upscale meal.

Strip District 1150 Smallman St.
412/201-5656, elevenck.com

Everyday Noodles

As much as I enjoyed getting takeout from Everyday Noodles (bowls of savory, piquant and satisfying pickled mustard greens with pork noodle soup in particular), it sure was nice to return to the narrow Squirrel Hill dining room to enjoy a meal peppered with one after another juicy xiaolongbao, the signature dish of the restaurant. Owner Mike Chen and his team have extended the menu to offer what functionally is dim sum without the carts — you’ll find a variety of buns that range in form and filling, from classic potstickers to fried stuffed bun, which is a pork-meatball filled bun that’s fluffy like a bao on top and crunchy at the base.

Staffing remains an issue at Everyday Noodles, which means that for the moment, you won’t see the show of chefs Pop! Thwack! Roll! Slice! as they prepare noodles a la minute; prep work tends to take place during the day now. But the brisk, efficient servers are great at navigating your order and keeping the busy space moving without making you feel rushed — if you’re looking for a quick bite before heading to a show (as long as the wait isn’t too long to get a table), you can be out the door, stuffed and happy, in 30 minutes.

Squirrel Hill 5875 Forbes Ave.
412/421-6668, everydaynoodles.net

Fig & Ash

There’s intoxicating magic to a restaurant when the entire staff sings the same tune. That’s what’s happening at Fig & Ash, the welcoming North Side establishment run by Cory Hughes and Alex Feltovich. The restaurant was one of my favorite openings of 2020, and it continues to shine as it rolls through its second year on Pittsburgh Magazine’s Best Restaurants list. I appreciate how the restaurant sits in a hard-to-find sweet spot between neighborhood tavern and destination, night-out dining.

Hughes, executive chef Chris Shuplock and the rest of the kitchen crew deliver a crowd-pleasing menu with dishes inspired by Sunday dinners and classic American cuisine. What makes it shine is they use quality ingredients, add some nuance in technique you might not want to do at home and execute the cookery with fine attention to detail. There are now-stalwart dishes such as double-cut pork chop and short rib and pork-belly meatloaf with side sets that change seasonally (jump on the luxurious mashed potatoes if they are listed), as well as seasonal salads and soups plus rotating items such as lentil shepherd’s pie.

North Side 514 E. Ohio St.
412/321-2222, figandashpgh.com

Gi-Jin

Gi-Jin, one of the recent additions from the always-hustling Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group, brings escapist vibes and a flair for fish to the mini-restaurant row in the Cultural District. You’ll find a ridiculous gin menu, hard-to-find (in Pennsylvania) sake bottles, and upbeat, informed service in an immersive dining space. Downtown Pittsburgh has a new superstar restaurant to enjoy as it slowly wakes up from two-plus years of sometimes near abandonment due to the coronavirus pandemic.

You’re coming to Gi-Jin for chef de cuisine Michael Taylor’s varied permutations of raw fish. It’s been a joy to see him delve into his craft as he quickly moves deeper into modern-day sushi philosophy. Taylor does everything from precision butchering to aging an aquarium of sea creatures. The quality of his work is shown in nigiri that ranges from delicate to flavor-bomb. Be sure to get some of the stunning small plates, such as hamachi crudo and spicy tuna rice cake, to share with your pals, too.

Downtown 208 Sixth St.
412/325-7007, gi-jin.com

Ladybird’s Luncheonette

Earlier this year, Ladybird’s Luncheonette owners Jade Cageao and Alex Jordan moved the entirety of their operation from the restaurant’s original Ellwood City spot to what previously was a satellite location on the second floor of a building in downtown Beaver. That space offers more room for Cageao and her crew to prepare the array of savory and sweet treats that make the establishment a destination. It also allows the duo to throw multi-course dinners, offer classes such as sourdough baking techniques and provide a small dining room where guests can crush their Appalachian-influenced craveables to the sounds of alt-country and Belinda Carlisle.

I’m drawn to Cageao’s blend of timeless pastry skills, sense of seasonality, focus on local ingredients and flair for contemporary whimsy. Her generously filled hand pies have crackly, flaky shells, her soups are heartwarming and her desserts decadent. If you’re feeling indulgent, get messy with dishes such as BBQ Mac hand pie stuffed with roast chicken, macaroni and cheese, bread and butter pickles and barbeque sauce. Are you feeling a little more wholesome? Cageao’s avocado toast, served on homemade sourdough, elevates a tired trend with a pop of texture and flavor; pair that with one of Ladybird Luncheonette’s energizing juice blends. Whichever direction you choose (or choose both, like I do), don’t skip what’s in the pastry case.

Beaver 459 Third St., Second Floor
724/506-6302, ladybirdsluncheonette.com

Mola

PHOTO BY HAL B. KLEIN

The thing I love best about Mola is chef/owner Alex Tang’s deliberate and continuous drive to refine his proficiency in the craft of sushi making. Over the past year, he’s deepened his supply chain to import a global lineup of seafood that can’t be found at establishments elsewhere in the region. For example, there were times when he offered five varieties of uni from various geographies, allowing diners to experience how terroir affects the characteristics of sea urchin. Tang also treats fish with the utmost respect, experimenting with aging (contrary to popular belief, fresh isn’t always best when it comes to sushi) and curing techniques. His sushi rice is on-point and delicately seasoned. This year, he introduced a call-ahead omakase option, one of the few of its kind in Pittsburgh.

There are some excellent small plates on the menu, too. I love the juicy hamachi collar, and Mola’s seaweed salad is a vegetal and sweet way to balance the rest of the meal. Diners looking for non-fish dishes should consider pork belly bao, pork gyūdon and Japanese curry chicken. Service at Mola is upbeat, and the small dining room is lively. Later this year, Tang and Everyday Noodles owner Mike Chen will launch a food hall centered around Asian restaurants in the Terminal Building in the Strip District.

East Liberty 6018 Penn Ave.
412/365-6688, themolafish.com

Morcilla

Passing tapas and sharing big-format dishes while quaffing funky fermented cider might be the norm in Mediterranean Spain, but it wasn’t even an option in Pittsburgh prior to Justin Severino and Hilary Prescott Severino opening Morcilla in late 2015. The restaurateurs entrusted longtime Cure chef Nate Hobart with the kitchen, who, as executive chef and partner, is offering a ridiculously tasty menu of Spanish-style dishes. Morcilla’s menu moves with the seasons, so don’t miss dishes such as almejas en salsa verde (Manila clams, green garlic salsa verde, vermouth, lemon) when offered. You’ll also find consistency in shared items such as the Laurel Hills Farm trout with fried artichokes, salsa verde and lemon and costillas de la matanza; those baby back ribs are my favorite rib dish in town.

The bar at Morcilla, with picture windows opening to Butler Street, is one of my favorite places to relax with a drink and a snack. Morcilla’s beverage menu has a deep sherry and vermouth list, its cocktails are refined and balanced, the beer is local and the wine list is marvelous. As for snacks, I’d go for the Salty Pork Bits platter (Severino’s charcuterie business is top-class), zesty fried artichokes and the luscious oxtail montadito.

Lawrenceville 3519 Butler St.
412/652-9924, morcillapittsburgh.com

Oak Hill Post

Oak Hill Post owners Christian Schulz and Rebecca Nicholson strengthened the voice of their already outstanding Brookline establishment by slowly transforming what began as a takeaway sandwich and pasta shop into Pittsburgh’s premiere daytime restaurant. When I reviewed the restaurant in February, I noted how it walks a perfect line between a contemporary, ingredient-driven restaurant and a diner with a small-town vibe. I crave visits to Oak Hill Post for the depth of flavors on its small-yet-dynamite menu, and I return for the warmth of service.

Breakfast is a big draw here, with crusty, flaky biscuits that serve as a base for sweet (lemon curd and jam) and savory (get the breakfast sandwich). The hearty breakfast burrito and airy French toast are fantastic options, too. For lunch, Oak Hill Post’s All American Burger makes a strong case for Pittsburgh’s top hamburger. Sandwiches such as No. 26 (a wildly yummy fried chicken sandwich) and The Breakfast Club (turkey, bacon, fried egg and more) round out a delightful list of items.

Brookline 600 Brookline Blvd.
412/254-2970, oakhillpost.com

Pusadee’s Garden

The most exciting Pittsburgh restaurant opening of 2021 kept rolling strong in 2022. A visit to the sophisticated reimagining of Pusadee’s Garden in Upper Lawrenceville is transportive. I feel like I drop all of my worries the minute I step into the elegant, breezy entrance arcade and land in a seat in one of the semi-private dining rooms, the glass-box bar or the restaurant’s gorgeous garden, which, fewer than two years in, is already starting to mature into a dreamy modernist fantasy (I can’t wait to see how beautiful it’ll be as it matures over the years).

Pusadee’s Garden’s menu has staple small plates, such as charcoal-cooked lemongrass meatballs (be sure to enjoy the sugarcane stick they are grilled around) and pork belly with garlic caramel, and mains such as khao soi short rib with egg noodles and pickled mustard greens. There always are a few new dishes for voracious eaters to explore. If you’re a fan of spicy food, I’ll steer you to som tum; the spicy green papaya salad is brightly acidic, a little sweet and comes with an (adjustable) heat that awakens the palate for the rest of the meal.

Lawrenceville 5319 Butler St.
412/252-2683, pusadeesgarden.com

Sakura

Fenping Geng and Feng Gao’s Squirrel Hill restaurant has a Japanese name and a wide-ranging menu that offers everything from sushi to canonical Chinese-American dishes. But dig in deeper to what effectively is a restaurant within a restaurant, and you’ll find one of the most exciting places to eat in Pittsburgh. That’s because Geng, the effusive front-of-house personality, and Gao (a chef growing ever more confident in his culinary vision) have moved the dishes of their native Shaanxi province to the forefront of the menu. And those dishes, along with Geng’s gracious presence, are why Sakura is on this list.

Geng and Gao significantly expanded Sakura’s handmade dumpling list earlier this year, and what’s offered now is extraordinary. Get into the “Amazing Dumplings” list with selections such as the spicy, crunchy pork with lotus root, vegetal pork with fennel fronds and the juicy northern classic pork with sour pickled cabbage. A new “Chef’s Secret Northwest Noodles” list includes hand-pulled noodle treats such as beef hot-oil noodles and ripped noodles topped with tomato and egg. Don’t skip out on other Northern dishes such as the crackly ​​Laotongguan pork sandwich and cold chicken salad popping with cilantro and warm spices, either.

Squirrel Hill 5882 Forbes Ave.
412/422-7188, sakura-pgh.com

Salem’s Market and Grill

The dining room at Salem’s Market and Grill got an upgrade this year with new flooring, tables, and bright digital signs, making the fairly lengthy menu easier to navigate. While you wait in line to order, watch executive chef Nurul Huda oversee a multicultural crew of cooks working grill stations and batching portions of flavorful Middle Eastern cuisine in the Strip District restaurant’s open kitchen. Since it’s attached to a best-in-the-region butcher shop, the halal restaurant is reasonably priced, especially considering that the meat is locally raised and of remarkable quality. Vegetarian diners are looked after, too — the establishment offers a tantalizing array of dishes for those who choose not to eat meat.

There’s the hot bar, one of the best meal deals in Pittsburgh, where you can order heaping portions of goat curry and chicken biryani along with sides such as spinach paneer. Or go for the grill, where kebabs and shawarma come as plates or sandwiches. And while it might seem like a bit of a departure for a Middle Eastern restaurant to offer a hamburger, Salem’s has one of the best in Pittsburgh; the custom blend is ground in-house daily.

Strip District 2923 Penn Ave.
412/235-7828, salemsmarketgrill.com

Senti

As Pittsburgh (in line with restaurant trends across the country) settles into an era where casual dining and comfort food is at the forefront, it’s particularly critical for our city to celebrate its elegant dining options, too. Senti fits the bill. With friendly-formal service and refined contemporary northern Italian cuisine, the Lawrenceville restaurant is a perfect spot for a special-occasion meal, out-of-town family visit or a lovely mid-week date.

Senti’s spaghetti pomodoro reminds us that even the seemingly most straightforward dishes can spark perfection when everything works in harmony; the al dente noodles seem to be drunk with tomatoes and basil. Agnolotti di vitello, dumplings stuffed with veal and herbs, swim in a bright veal and sage broth; the tiny pockets are deep, vegetal and wondrous to eat. Senti’s menu includes a rotating selection of seasonal main courses (typically, two are offered) and a dynamite list of starters. The restaurant’s wine list is one of the most exceptional in Pittsburgh.

Lawrenceville ​​3473 Butler St.
412/586-4347, sentirestaurant.com

Spork

I appreciate how Spork is a restaurant driven by curiosity. This year, the major evolution for the Bloomfield restaurant was in the style of service, which became significantly more formal. The kitchen sends out a series of amuse-bouche between courses, many of which will be among the best bites of the meal, and you’ll find a bit of theater as a bartender prepares beautiful classic cocktails on a roving bar car (the whole bar program is top-notch). Unless you alert staff otherwise, dinner may linger for a few hours. I’m here for it — this sort of heightened dining experience is a real treat, and the dynamic, upbeat soundtrack featuring artists such as The Clash and Blondie keeps the energy high.

The menu changes pretty frequently at Spork, but dishes typically don’t move forward without testing. Take an early spring halibut dish — the firm, juicy fish was seasoned with toasted rye bran and coriander and served with grassy English pea puree and hard-to-find corn sprouts, plus a painter’s palette of sauces such as spicy yogurt, pistachio miso and harissa. Executive chef Chris Frangiadis and his team go one or two steps extra in a way that nearly always works by using fresh, preserved or fermented elements from the restaurant’s adjacent garden.

Bloomfield 5430 Penn Ave.
412/441-1700, sporkpittsburgh.com

Taiwanese Bistro Cafe 33

One of the liveliest places in Pittsburgh is the dining room of Taiwanese Bistro Cafe 33. Tables are nearly elbow-to-elbow at the Squirrel Hill restaurant, which is located in a former laundromat around the corner from the hubbub of Forbes Avenue. Co-owner Jenny Tao and her upbeat front-of-house staff walk newcomers and loyal regulars through her husband Asan Tao’s Taiwanese menu, which runs the gamut from mild items such as chicken cutlets over rice and turnip cakes to the assertive changsha chou doufu, known in English as stinky tofu.

It’s easy to put together a balanced meal at Cafe 33. I adore Asan Tao’s approachable yet elegant dishes such as steamed halibut dressed in soy sauce, sesame oil, scallions and cilantro (be sure to ask about fresh fish specials), and I crave comfort food such as pork rolls with oyster sauce and lightly fried tofu with chive blossoms. Tao’s approach to canonical Taiwanese dishes such as beef noodle soup, scallion pancake with eggs and three-cup chicken (listed as chicken with basil and garlic in a hot stone pot) are terrific, too.

Squirrel Hill 1711 Shady Ave.
412/421-2717, twcafe33.com

Udipi Cafe

Udipi, which opened in 1996, is the Pittsburgh-area’s longest continuously operating vegetarian restaurant. The lively eatery offers an expansive menu primarily focused on the southern Indian cuisines of the Tuluva-Mangalorean and Andhra regions. The Monroeville establishment garners long-standing love from devoted regulars yet continues to remain under the radar enough to make it a bit of an unsung gem. Owner/chef Manjunath Sherigar dialed things in another step this year. It is operating with a precision of execution that makes it even more of a destination than it has been all these years.

Udipi has built a reputation as the go-to spot for dosa, a thin crepe prepared from a batter of fermented lentils and rice. Lacy with umami on the inside and filled with items such as potatoes, onions, minced vegetables and spicy chutney, they are energy-dense and utterly delicious. Be sure to get some selections from the appetizer menu — the sampler plate with vegetable cutlet, vegetable samosa idli, medu vada and pakoda is a mighty array of crispy bites that are particularly yummy when dipped in some of Udipi’s spicy condiments.

Monroeville 4141 Old William Penn Highway
412/373-5581

BEST POP-UP

Fet Fisk

PHOTO BY HAL B. KLEIN

Nik Forsberg and his crew carry a lot of good cheer under the Fet Fisk umbrella. There’s a small farm, which he’s expanding this season. There’s the Bloomfield farmers market stand where Fet Fisk sells pickled vegetables, smoked fish, condiments and other housemade delights. There are whimsical specials such as the “Fisk Fry” and “Burger Knights.” There are Forsberg’s cleverly crafted newsletters. There’s a newly introduced series of multi-course dinners in collaboration with Nine O’Clock Wines.

And then there’s the continuation of where it all began with collaborator and co-founder Sarah LaPonte in 2019 — the pop-up series. Forsberg found a temporary spot for the typically biweekly popups at now-closed Pear and the Pickle in Troy Hill and in May moved the events to (for the time being, at least) Soju in Garfield. Forsberg and his crew shine with menus that seamlessly combine local seasonality and foodways with Scandinavian culinary influences. What’s offered changes each time, so just dive in with a few friends and get into it.

fetfisk.net
instagram.com/fet_fisk

BEST FOOD TRUCK

stuntpig

Ariel Alexander and Cody Maze launched stuntpig in mid-2021, delighting an ever-growing multitude of fans with their lineup of raise-your-hands-in-the-air tasty sandwiches. There typically are three or four of them available when the Pig Rig rolls up to one of the region’s terrific breweries (and, occasionally, other locations). I crave the backyard barbeque delectability of Mr. Pink (smoked pork shoulder, chipotle mop sauce, fennel-coriander slaw, violet mustard) and the bright heat of Mr. Orange (smoked and pulled chicken, spicy piri piri sauce, briny cucumbers, chimichurri aioli), while Mr. Blonde (house-cured rosemary ham, melty swiss, bread and butter pickles, mustard jam) is an easy-to-love pressed sandwich.

Not all of stuntpig’s sandwiches are named for “Reservoir Dogs” characters, and the menu is rounded out with just-as-enjoyable items such as herby “grandma-style” potato salad, grilled carrot salad and jerked chicken drumettes.

stuntpigpgh.com
instagram.com/stuntpigpgh

It’s been 14 months since Gov. Tom Wolf issued a public health directive for restaurants to close during the initial, uncertain wave of the COVID-19 pandemic. In that time, I’ve organized picnics in parks, gathered around fire pits in backyards and embraced, as best I could depending on the weather and the severity of the pandemic, dining outdoors at restaurants. I’ve eaten melancholy bowls of soup alone on dreary, humid August evenings; I’ve lost myself in revelry crushing pizza and sandwiches after masked drives with friends in the dead of winter. As of late, I’ve returned, fully vaccinated, to indoor spaces. I bet you have similar stories about the ways you supported Pittsburgh restaurants during this tumultuous time.

We had to go the extra mile to get through the past year, and Pittsburgh’s restaurants were there to nourish us — even as they were forced to do it very differently than usual. Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2021 Best Restaurants list reflects the ways we’ve dined through the pandemic while looking forward to what’s coming next.

The List

Click on the restaurant you want to check out first or continue scrolling through the entire list.

• Alta Via
• Apteka
• Back to the Foodture
• Bar Marco
• Butterjoint
• Cafe Agnes
• Casbah
• Chengdu Gourmet
• Della Terra Italian Bistro
• DiAnoia’s Eatery
• Dish Osteria
• Driftwood Oven
• Eleven Contemporary Kitchen
• Everyday Noodles
• Fet-Fisk: Royal Market
• Fig & Ash
• Gaucho Parrilla Argentina
• Independent Brewing Company + Hidden Harbor
• Ladybird’s Luncheonette (Ellwood City)
• Mediterra Cafe (Mt. Lebanon)
• Mola
• Morcilla
• Oak Hill Post
• Poulet Bleu
• Pusadee’s Garden
• Sakura Teppanyaki and Sushi
• Salem’s Market and Grill
• Senti
• Spork
• Taiwanese Bistro Cafe 33
• The Speckled Egg

Restaurants foster connection and conversation, furnish an escape from the day-to-day routine and, from hamburger to haute cuisine, transform sustenance into bliss. Restaurants are economic drivers, too. In 2017, labor analytics research firm Emsi noted that more people in the region worked in restaurants than in any other field; that’s not counting the other spokes in the wheel, such as farmers, janitorial staff and laundry services, that make the industry run.

This list is dedicated to everyone who works in the hospitality industry. To that end, I’ve decided not to name executive chefs in each restaurant’s information bubble, as is typical for our list. This isn’t meant to diminish the importance of an executive chef to a restaurant; instead, see it as a reflection of the reality that restaurants are a holistic operation.

To all the dishwashers, servers, bartenders, chefs, line and prep cooks, managers, bussers and hosts, you deserve unyielding esteem. This pandemic exposed much of the dark side of the restaurant world — the parts we’re not supposed to think about when we’re out to dinner. Wage disparities, often stemming from tipped-wage power dynamics, were exacerbated as servers were thrust into the role of teaching a new dining etiquette to a sometimes politicized public. Punishing hours in cramped, poorly ventilated kitchens were always part of the typically unseen working conditions for many back-of-house staff; now those conditions put those workers at a high risk for contracting COVID-19. Lack of healthcare for too many people who work in restaurants, along with an at-will labor policy that left thousands of people without jobs at a moment’s notice, resulted in many feeling anchorless and, frankly, scared. An even brighter spotlight was fixed on the urgency for a long-overdue reckoning with systemic, overt and unconscious forms of racial, gender and sexual discrimination that have for generations plagued the industry.

In the face of it all, hospitality-industry workers showed the backbone that makes this community special. When the Commonwealth left front- and back-of-house restaurant (as well as agricultural and grocery) workers off the vaccine prioritization list — all but saying, “you are essential but not essential enough, please keep working but figure out how to stay healthy on your own” — people formed networks to share information about appointments for shots that otherwise might have gone to waste. Hospitality industry veterans banded together to launch Pittsburgh Restaurant Workers Aid, a nonprofit that, since its inception in March 2020, has provided relief in the form of physical goods, information exchange and shared emotional burden. Longer-standing organizations such as the Pittsburgh chapter of the United States Bartenders Guild and 412 Food Rescue stepped up to help a community in crisis. And a Downtown restaurant, The Warren Bar & Burrow, distributed free, no-questions-asked meals to restaurant workers who found themselves displaced from their jobs.

I hope that one of the lasting takeaways from the past year is more widespread recognition that working in a restaurant is as noble a career choice as any and, as a society, we ought to work harder for equity across the board. As a writer and as a diner, it’s my goal to continue to fight for that; just as importantly, I want to make sure I’m actively listening so that underrepresented voices are better heard.

While this list is, by its nature, selective (and subjective), every restaurant owner who navigated the pandemic while adhering to public-health measures deserves praise. You didn’t get the support you should have from the federal and state government when they asked you to protect the general welfare by severely curtailing your businesses. In the wake of it all, you rode it through openings, closings, capacity restrictions, an understandably nervous dining public and countless other obstacles as best you could, even as a small number of restaurant owners selfishly chose a short-term money grab or political posturing over the greater good.

Thank you.

So, in light of all of this, how did I put the 2021 Best Restaurants list together? Aside from the qualification that a restaurant had to have opened by the end of the 2020 calendar year, I always ask one core question: “Does this restaurant fulfill its intention in an exceptional fashion?” With restaurants operating in an augmented and ever-changing reality for 14 months, I found answering that was even more complicated than usual. The listings this year are longer, and more personal, than past manifestations of Best Restaurants.

Delicious food always remained at the forefront for me. Everywhere you go on this list serves lovely things to eat. I did give a wider berth than I have in the past for establishments that have enough dishes to spark delight — even though you might have to sort through a longer menu to find them. (I’ve done my best to point you in the right direction.) I even included a few establishments that aren’t restaurants in the traditional sense because I love the food so much.

Because this list was compiled in large part via takeout or through dining in outdoor spaces meant to be temporary, design didn’t play as much of a factor as it has in the past. That’s OK. Even so, there are establishments that continued, when they could, to offer exemplary atmosphere and service; I’m sure they will continue to do so, and that’s why they made this list.

Some establishments found, reasonably quickly, ways to pivot into expanded takeout operations while keeping their dining rooms closed. Others emerged as models for all-season outdoor dining. Newer restaurants demonstrated how casual meals prepared with quality ingredients and attention to detail were what we needed this year. All in all, I think this reflects a healthy balance of what Pittsburgh restaurants have to offer. I’m certain you’ll find outstanding places to choose from no matter what you’re in the mood for on any given day.

The pandemic claimed many Pittsburgh restaurants. Some, including Spoon, Whitfield, Union Standard and Dinette, were stalwarts of this list as well as personal favorites. I’m looking forward to the next act from the people who made those establishments thrive.

As of press time, there is a significant staffing shortage in town. This means service might be a little slower or less attentive than you might expect and that menu options are reduced (although I’d argue, overall, that shorter menus are a good thing). Although more people are vaccinated from COVID-19 every day, the pandemic lingers on (and while I am optimistic it has crested, it could resurge), so continue to adhere to whatever public safety measures are in place and don’t be a jerk about it. Exercise patience and kindness as you return to restaurants.

As I write this in early May, everything is in a state of what I hope is healthy metamorphosis. I’m feeling upbeat about the future of restaurants in Pittsburgh. Takeout remains an option, but diners are returning to establishments. As restaurant professionals and guests are vaccinated, it’s starting to feel fun to go out again. I’m eager for what comes next.

These are the Best Restaurants in Pittsburgh.

Alta Via

The first new concept from the big Burrito Restaurant Group since 2004 proved to be a hit when it opened in 2019, offering the suburbs northeast of Pittsburgh a much-needed dose of first-rate cooking. Executive Chef Ben Sloan takes advantage of the restaurant’s wood-fired hearth to provide an excellent selection of smoke-kissed cuisine; I’m particularly fond of the vegetable dishes, such as baby artichokes with mint salsa crudo and Meyer lemon aioli.

I’ll also steer you to Alta Via’s pasta plates, which are made in-house and always feature the proper cut of noodle. There are seasonal treats such as fettuccine mixed with an armada of spring vegetables and wow-wow crowd-pleasers such as crispy chicken breast over spaghetti with red sauce; they’re some of the best around. I was a big fan of Alta Via’s bar — both the physical space and the cocktail and wine programs — prior to the COVID-19 pandemic and am looking forward to returning for a bite and a drink. Service at Alta Via is excellent, too, in line with the customer-forward expectations of the big Burrito Restaurant Group.

46 Fox Chapel Road, O’Hara Township; 412/408-3816, altaviapgh.com

Apteka

Chefs/owners Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski’s eastern- and central-European-influenced vegan menu and dreamy, often candle-lit bar program has made Apteka one of Pittsburgh’s most exciting destinations since its 2016 opening. Closing the dining room during the pandemic allowed Lasky and Skowronski the space to dive even deeper into their roots, and the dividends paid off. The duo opted for a honed-in, highly seasonal takeaway menu with dishes such as chłodnik (chilled beet soup with yogurt, cucumbers, seared beet greens and kohlrabi kraut) and faszerowane pomidory (oxheart tomato stuffed with long rice, zucchini, onion and fermented tomato) highlighting farmers such as Chris Brittenburg and Aeros Lillstrom (Who Cooks For You Farm) and Jason “Joddo” Oddo (Bitter Ends Farm Co.).

On top of that, the bottled cocktail program included a lineup of drinks made with long-term projects of foraged preservation such as quince and cornelian cherry cordials, spruce syrup and juniper tincture. And Apteka was the first in town to introduce a dynamic wine-to-go bottle shop focused exclusively on natural and biodynamic wines, adding an easy-to-navigate website full of handy descriptions and recommendations. Lasky and Skowronski are in the process of renovating Apteka’s dining room and plan to reopen for on-premise dining this summer.

4606 Penn Ave., Bloomfield; aptekapgh.com

Back to the Foodture

I love chef/co-owner Angel Randolph’s hamburgers and wings. When I first wrote about the establishment she co-owns with her husband, Edward Magwood, in early 2020, I asked the question: “What happens when you fuse the gastronomic lineage of southern grandmothers with the over-the-top culinary carnival of Guy Fieri?” Well, Randolph’s culinary creations have only gotten more over-the-top, marvelous and numerous since then.

The key to her wings is the crisp and juicy fry. From there, you choose an adventure of dry rubs and sauces with flavors that range from classic to red hot to sweet and herbaceous; salt & vinegar, Barnzy, Thai basil and Angel’s Revenge are among my favorites. Randolph’s burgers are equally varied; simple versions ring true to form while wild ones such as Buggie (grilled cheese sandwiches rather than buns, egg, bacon, tomato, lettuce, mayonnaise) don’t just look show-stopper — they are messy, indulgent and delightful. Look for Magwood, a consummate entertainer and lover of all things pop culture, to add his charm to the couple’s new South Side location, which opened in early May.

2767 E. Carson St., South Side; facebook.com/Back-To-The-Foodture-737494689957282/

Bar Marco

I’ve been a regular or semi-regular at Bar Marco since the day it opened in 2012 (really — I was there on day one). It had become routine for me over the last few years to pop in for a Tuesday-night chicken parmesan special and a glass of wine after a yoga class, so, naturally, the first dish I ordered for takeout when restaurants were shut down for in-house dining was chicken parm. For a moment during the whirlwind of that initial disquiet, everything felt kind of normal.

Executive chef/co-owner Justin Steel and his team pivoted to a thrice-weekly, takeout-only model, choosing to keep the dining room closed. On top of that, two former front-of-house employees, Celine Roberts and Christie Kliewer, followed their passion and launched an in-house (yet independent) wine shop — Nine O’Clock Wines — specializing in natural wines. I continue to be a big fan of Steel’s seasonal, Italian-influenced menu, which is never too fussy and always lets the ingredients speak. Look for a return to camaraderie and fun as things ease back to normal; Bar Marco’s Wine Room is available for booking, outdoor dining is off to a festive start since it returned in April and the main dining room is expected to reopen sometime this summer.

2216 Penn Ave., Strip District; 412/471-1900, barmarcopgh.com

Butterjoint

At the beginning of the pandemic, Trevett and Sarah Hooper were deep into the process of combining their three adjoining restaurants, Legume, Butterjoint and Pie For Breakfast, into a singular establishment they were calling Butterjoint All Day. The idea was to pull the best from all three — Legume’s intensely seasonal cookery (which earned it Hall of Fame-worthy inclusion on PM’s Best Restaurants lists), Butterjoint’s classy bar food and Pie For Breakfast’s casual-upscale diner cuisine.

Throughout the COVID-19-augmented year, the Hoopers kept their dining room closed and offered many of their best dishes frozen for takeaway, adding fresh specials and provisions to the list as they could, along with bar manager Austin Ansell’s rotating batched cocktail specials. Hooper also added a smashburger. Expect an augmented version of the combined Butterjoint vision, spurred by Trevett Hooper’s reconnection to his kitchen, as Butterjoint welcomed guests again into the cozier, Thommy Conroy designed dining room in May. The menu will be limited at first, tilting toward sandwiches and other easygoing dishes, and will ramp up as Butterjoint’s back-of-house staff expands.

214 N. Craig St., Oakland; 412/621-2700, butterjoint.com

Casbah

PHOTO BY CHUCK BEARD

Each year as I write this list I think, “What can I say about Casbah that I didn’t say last year or the year prior?” The restaurant will turn 26 in October, and it is the longest-standing member of Pittsburgh Magazine’s Best Restaurant club; it’s been on our list every year since 1996. Slow, steady and consistent improvement is the hallmark of the big Burrito Restaurant Group, and nowhere is that more evident than at Casbah.

While executive chef Dustin Gardner’s Mediterranean-influenced menu has a familiar feel, the subtle changes to the way dishes are prepared — which include a continuously deeper commitment to the local food economy, as well as the streamlined set of offerings to reflect the realities of the COVID-19 era — mean that Casbah always feels like the right thing to be eating at the moment.

229 S. Highland Ave., Shadyside; 412/661-5656, casbah.kitchen

Chengdu Gourmet

Twelve of us gathered together around the large table in the back corner of Chengdu Gourmet three nights before the initial restaurant shutdown. We indulged in what felt like a “last supper” feast of executive chef/owner Wei Zhu’s nuanced renditions of Sichuan dishes. Cumin lamb, mapo tofu, dry-sauteed green beans, Lion’s Head meatballs and crispy Chongqing chicken were among the many “hope this strangeness won’t last long” favorites we passed around the table. More than a year later, it reminds me how dining out with a crew of friends is always an evocative experience.

I’m thrilled Zhu’s menu has held up for takeout — hot and sour yam noodles, crispy pickled cucumbers and many of the above dishes made for a few epic backyard feasts, and this year’s house-made winter sausage was the best Zhu has ever offered. Still, I’m bursting with excitement for the first night spent rowdily sharing dishes, arriving home stuffed and tingling from hot peppers and Sichuan peppercorn. Zhu plans to reopen his dining room on June 1. You bet I’ll be there.

5840 Forward Ave., Squirrel Hill; 412/521-2088, chengdugourmetpittsburgh.com

Della Terra Italian Bistro

PHOTO BY CHUCK BEARD

It’s exciting to watch a restaurant blossom into itself. Fiore and Michelle Moletz opened Della Terra in a strip mall in Harmony in 2013. Over the years, the restaurant quietly earned a reputation as an under-the-radar gem, particularly for Fiore Moletz’s outstanding naturally leavened neo-Neapolitan pizza. In late 2019, they moved the operation to a former bank on Zelienople’s main drag.

I’m excited about the move for a lot of reasons — mainly, that it allows more people to have access to Moletz’s culinary chops and his quiet farm-to-table ethos (nobody, for example, will brag that the egg yolk on the top-notch spaghetti carbonara comes from the Moletzs’ chickens, but it does). In addition to the still outstanding pizza, cooked in an oven heated with kiln-dried locally sourced hardwood, the menu features some of the best scratch-made pasta dishes in the region, as well as terrific starters such as artichokes romano and main courses such as Lambrusco chicken with salt and vinegar potatoes. Service is charming, and the wine and cocktails are terrific.

100 N. Main St., Zelienople; 724/473-0630, dellAterrapgh.com

DiAnoia’s Eatery

DiAnoia’s pivoted to a dinner-only restaurant during the COVID-19 pandemic, at times operating as a takeout-only restaurant, offering outdoor dining and, in March, returning guests to the inside of the establishment. Throughout, it maintained its well-earned reputation as an all-around crowd-pleaser. DiAnoia’s dinner menu weaves Italian-American restaurant classics such as meatballs and spaghetti and escarole, beans and sausage with big-plate Italian dishes such as porchetta with focaccia and drippings and steak Florentine. DiAnoia’s Eatery typically is a triple threat, with daily breakfast and lunch worth indulging in, too. When things return to a more even flow, I recommend visiting in the mornings for excellent espresso drinks (or a breakfast cocktail if that’s your thing) and my favorite NYC-bodega-style breakfast sandwich; go at lunchtime for sandwiches such as sausage and peppers, veal parmesan and tuna with balsamic vinegar, as well as dishes including Tuscan kale salad and roasted cauliflower.

In 2020, owners Dave Anoia and Aimee DiAndrea added a casual eatery, Pane è Pronto, just down the block from DiAnoia’s. There you’ll find killer, ready-to-eat Italian sandwiches on house-made bread (you can also purchase a variety of bread on its own), a hot bar, a frozen food case and pastries.

2549 Penn Ave., Strip District; 412/918-1875, dianoiaseatery.com

Dish Osteria

Here’s how much I love Dish Osteria, Michele and Cindy Savoia’s South Side hideaway: It is the only restaurant that has been closed for the entire COVID-19 crisis to still make this year’s Best Restaurants list. Given that it reopened in 2019 in even more vital form following a two-year hiatus (and I can confirm it will reopen this year once the staff is fully vaccinated), I expect that this blurb from my never-published 2020 Best Restaurants list will ring as true as ever:

Even though it’s elbow-to-elbow boisterous, Dish is one of Pittsburgh’s most romantic restaurants, in large part due to the needs-anticipating service team and transportive ambiance. On the flip side, the front bar is an everybody-knows-your-name neighborhood hangout, where reasonably priced wines and a deep amaro list keep you buzzing. Dish is proof that serving straightforward dishes prepared with quality ingredients is the best way to go. Michele Savoia’s menu is attuned to his Sicilian roots — salads speak to the seasons; fish and shellfish, grilled and simply adorned, speak to the beauty of the sea; pasta dishes speak to our souls. It’s beautiful.

Update: Dish reopened on September 29.

128 S. 17th St., South Side; 412/390-2012, dishosteria.com

Driftwood Oven

Last year, Driftwood Oven executive chef/owner Neil Blazin earned a James Beard Award semifinalist nod for Outstanding Pastry Chef for his top-flight work as a pizzaiolo, bread baker and, occasionally, a preparer of scrumptious treats such as cinnamon rolls, all of which begin with a sourdough starter that he’s nurtured for years. Blazin closed his dining room in response to COVID-19 and expanded his bakery program to bagels and sweets.

His old-world and Roman-style pizzas remain in Pittsburgh’s top-tier, with straightforward pies and thoughtfully topped permutations such as Major Tom (finocchiona, morita chili oil, herbed ricotta, mozzarella, provola, fresh garlic and white wine shallot cream sauce) hitting the right notes. Dishes such as hoagies, kale salads and baba ganoush round out an excellent menu; I’m consistently impressed with the little details, such as the way crispy-yet-chewy croutons were packaged separately for a takeaway tasty winter salad. Look for Driftwood’s dining room to open in a smaller, fast-casual capacity, which will include lunch service, late spring or early summer.

3615 Butler St., Lawrenceville; 412/251-0253, driftwoodoven.com

Eleven Contemporary Kitchen

The last formal review I wrote for Pittsburgh Magazine was for Eleven Contemporary Kitchen in our April 2020 issue. The biggest takeaway I had was how impressive executive chef Eli Wahl and his team were at nuancing their menu design and execution so that everyone who visits Eleven has an exceptional experience. There’s an art to pushing boundaries — but not too far to be way out of the box — while not playing it so safe as to be dull and repetitive, either. The big Burrito Restaurant hits that mark at Eleven.

I can still remember how pleased I felt eating dishes such as Elysian Fields lamb loin with parsnip puree, sweet potato and tart cherry-Marcona almond salsa; that one felt perfectly attuned to the season and comfortably of the moment. Service at Eleven ranks among the most attentive in the city, and the wine list is fabulous, making it a top choice for a let’s-get-back-to-restaurants upscale dinner. In pre-COVID times, Eleven made for a terrific spot for a light lunch (or a heavy one, if you want to go indulgent with its fabulous hamburger), and its attached bar offered the best happy-hour menu in town. Both are currently on hold; hopefully, they will return later in the year if conditions allow.

1150 Smallman St., Strip District; 412/201-5656, elevenck.com

Everyday Noodles

Prior to the pandemic, my every-visit move at Everyday Noodles was to order xiaolongbao. There are few things more delightful than housing a homemade dumpling that contains unctuous meat soup and tender, seasoned ground pork, and Everyday Noodles is my favorite place in town to eat this Jiangsu province classic. That bao doesn’t travel particularly well (though I did order them a few times), so I took full advantage of the fact that owner Mike Chen, one of Pittsburgh’s most seasoned restaurateurs, has over the past year worked with his Taiwanese chefs to expand the menu to offer significantly more dishes than he did when the restaurant opened in 2013. Although many of his chefs returned to Taiwan during the COVID-19 pandemic, Everyday Noodles is as delicious as ever.

This change of pace proved to be an opportunity to get to know the rest of the menu. Take pickled mustard greens with pork noodle soup, for example. Its broth resonates, tangy and vegetal; it nourishes my body and my spirit. The accompanying noodles (packaged separately for takeaway) are hand-pulled to toothsome perfection. That soup, more than any other restaurant item in Pittsburgh, became my go-to when I felt the lonesome blues of physical-distancing measures.

5875 Forbes Ave., Squirrel Hill; 412/421-6668, everydaynoodles.net

Fig & Ash

It took Fig & Ash’s executive chef/co-owner, Cory Hughes, nearly four years to open his North Side restaurant. We’re lucky he stuck with it through construction nightmares and COVID-related inspection delays, because Fig & Ash is one of Pittsburgh’s brightest new destinations. Hughes is a longtime Pittsburgh chef who most recently served as executive chef at Google Pittsburgh; prior to that, he worked at Spoon and Eleven Contemporary Kitchen.

At Fig & Ash, he built a menu influenced by Sunday comfort food dishes that he liked to prepare with his family. Here’s what I love about what he’s doing — while you might see meatloaf and clam chowder on the menu, they are prepared with more refined details in composition and plating than most home cooks would want to bother with. At the heart of the kitchen is a wood-fired grill (get one of the seats by the glass-enclosed kitchen for some theater with your meal); from there, you’ll find many of my favorite dishes, which include a spectacular double-cut pork chop and hearth-roasted heirloom carrots. The family influences extend throughout the restaurant — Hughes’ wife, Kate, an intensive care nurse, designed the cozy-yet-upscale dining room, and his brother-in-law, Alex Feltovich, is Fig & Ash’s general manager and co-owner.

514 E. Ohio St., North Side; 412/321-2222, figandashpgh.com

Gaucho Parrilla Argentina

It’s been a delight to experience Gaucho Parrilla Argentina’s development over the years. In 2013, owner Anthony Falcon opened his wood-fired restaurant in a pocket-sized Strip District building; it was primarily a takeout joint, with a limited menu of grilled meats. It was so good that in 2015 it helped us redefine what exactly made a restaurant a Best Restaurant. That same year, Falcon expanded Gaucho into an adjoining building, adding a host of banging new menu items, significantly more seating and a high-energy, counter-service style; this also began Gaucho’s signature line, a queue that would wrap toward the 16th Street Bridge.

In 2020, Falcon moved the establishment Downtown. Here, the menu still sings with the wood-fired joy of its previous iterations, and the high energy remains, too. But the line is a thing of the past; Gaucho now takes reservations. The most significant addition is a liquor license; Falcon curates the wine list, which is almost 100 percent Argentine, and bar supervisor Alison Hillard’s well-executed cocktail list has classics such as Aperol spritz and Fernet & Coke plus tasty originals such as Cafe Gaucho (Maggie’s Farm rum, house-made horchata, coffee liquor, Jannamico Super Punch and cinnamon).

146 6th St., Downtown; 412/709-6622, eat-gaucho.com

Independent Brewing Company + Hidden Harbor

I’ve always had a soft spot for the Squirrel Hill stalwart bars Independent Brewing Company and Hidden Harbor. Columnist Celine Roberts and I named Peter Kurzweg, Matthew Kurzweg and Adam Henry’s establishments, which also include Lorelei in East Liberty, as Best Bar Group in 2020, citing how the Independent has “evolved from a hyper-focused beer bar into a well-rounded modern gastropub.” The evolution continued through the COVID-19 pandemic, as Peter Kurzweg and Henry combined the Independent and the adjacent Hidden Harbor into a singular entity. They closed both dining rooms, opting to build a charming (and well-heated) courtyard getaway in the alley behind the building. There, they served an easy-to-like menu of snacks, salads and sandwiches, and, after long resisting it, introduced a hamburger as a regular menu item (it’s terrific). The drinks, as you’d expect from the best bar group, continue to be destination-worthy in their own right. Indoors, Kurzweg, Henry and company built a terrific wine and beer shop, a to-go menu and space for occasional guest sets by beloved Pittsburgher Rick Sebak. Look for the spaces to evolve this year as they reopen for indoor dining, now with Taylor Radebaugh as head chef.

Kurzweg’s leadership went beyond his restaurants, too. He has been an outspoken advocate for adhering to public safety measures from the get-go, speaking out against the small cadre of scurrilous restaurant owners who decided to buck best-practice restrictions. I’ve included Independent/Hidden Harbor on this list foremost because they, as combined forces, make for an outstanding restaurant, but this is also a nod to Kurzweg’s leadership.

1704 Shady Ave., Squirrel Hill; 412/422-5040, independentpgh.com

 Ladybird’s Luncheonette (Ellwood City)

It’s not too often you’ll find a chef who is equally skilled in savory and pastry cookery. Jade Cageao, chef/co-owner of Ladybird’s Luncheonette, nails both techniques with aplomb. I first visited the charming Ellwood City eatery on a whim — it was a pleasant July day, and I needed a little escape from the city. I was thunderstruck by La Marquita, a lard-fried carnitas sandwich with queso fresco, jalapeno pesto and smashed avocados, and I was haunted for days by the lingering memory of Cageao’s funky-sweet miso-buttercream double-ginger cookie sandwich.

Subsequent visits introduced me to handpies, meatloaf sandwiches, cakes and more, all crafted in-house and, as much as possible, with locally grown ingredients. Sure, the menu is pretty indulgent, and the portions are generous, but you can wash it down with a feel-good, house-pressed juice blend. Cageao and business partner Alex Jordan operate a second location, with a slightly pared-down menu, in Beaver.

507 Lawrence Ave., Ellwood City; 724/824-3623, instagram.com/ladybirdsluncheonette

Mediterra Cafe (Mt. Lebanon)

PHOTO COURTESY MEDITERRA CAFE

The Ambeliotis family has, since 2001, been feeding Pittsburgh via its versatile Mediterra Bakehouse. But family patriarch Nick Ambeliotis has long harbored visions of a neighborhood cafe that would offer an assemblage of quality food and drink for dine-in and takeaway. He and the next generation of his family realized that dream when they opened Mediterra Cafe in Sewickley in 2017. In 2020, the Ambeliotis family expanded on the vision by opening a larger version of the cafe in Mt. Lebanon.

Both spots offer executive chef Aniceto Sousa’s delightful menu of breakfast items, salads and sandwiches (where the bakery’s bread beautifully complements the sandwich fillings) and outstanding Roman-style pizza, plus a pastry case full of treats. On top of that, Ambeliotis pulls from his past career as a fine-foods importer to offer a top-of-the-town selection of cheese as well as a specialty foods market that is a genuine thrill to browse, at both locations. What sets the Mt. Lebanon location apart, for me, is the large and charming dining room (as well as the equally charming outdoor space) and the liquor license, which offers a full bar menu that includes Christina Squillace’s tasty cocktails.

292 Beverly Road, Mt. Lebanon; 412/533-9588, mediterracafe.com

Mola

Across the board, Mola is my favorite place to get sushi in Pittsburgh, and, when executive chef/co-owner Alex Tang is in the zone, his nigiri and hand rolls are genuinely top-flight. The first thing I noticed when I visited Mola, shortly after it opened in late 2018, was the quality of Tang’s rice — he cooks his Koshihikari rice al dente and gently seasons it with aged vinegar before serving it body temperature, which helps gently warm the raw fish. That fish Tang imports is excellent in quality, too — be on the lookout for weekly specials, which often include hard-to-find (especially in Pittsburgh) offerings such as kama toro, the fatty collar of tuna, which was the single best piece of fish I had in Pittsburgh in 2020.

Rounding out the Mola menu are nicely prepared vegetables such as the lotus root, snow peas, wood ear mushrooms, enoki and tofu skin that make up the Mola-Style Vegetables dish, bao (get the crispy chicken), quality dumplings and tasty rice bowls.

6018 Penn Ave., East Liberty; 412/365-6688, themolafish.com

Morcilla

PHOTO BY ADAM MILLIRON

There are two ways I like to approach Morcilla, the Lawrenceville taverna owned by Justin Severino and Hilary Prescott Severino. The first is to sit at the bar and order a selection of charcuterie, snacks such as crispy beer-battered smelts and beet conserva and small plates such as roasted cauliflower, pairing them with a funky cider or a few glasses of vermouth. This is equally as delightful on a transportive hot summer night as it is uplifting on a cold winter evening.

The other way to do it is to get a table in the refurbished dining room and go wild with executive chef/co-owner Nate Hobart’s menu — think cider-braised chicken, Calasparra rice and herbs, Jamison Farm lamb tagine and roasted duck with fennel, pomegranate and blood orange. Here, I like to get into the restaurant’s excellent cider and Spanish wine lists. I appreciated Morcilla’s 2020 pivot to takeout; dishes such as costillas de la matanza (baby back pork ribs, pomegranate sherry caramel, scallions, coriander and crunchy black olive) and fried artichokes with anchovy aioli and burnt lemon held up on short drives to backyard hangs.

3519 Butler St., Lawrenceville; 412/652-9924, morcillapittsburgh.com

Oak Hill Post

For much of last winter, I was really into driving around and eating meals over the trunk of my car. One of the highlights of that extended, distanced adventuring was reveling in Beets + Greens, a vegetarian sandwich from Oak Hill Post. It was layered with roasted beets, broccolini, arugula, marinated olives, sauce gribiche and Boursin cheese, all inside house-made focaccia; aside from Pitaland pita, all the bread at Oak Hill Post is made in-house.

That sandwich confirmed that co-owners Christian Schulz and Rebecca Nicholson hit the mark when they pivoted from their original plans to launch a “finer diner” concept to instead deliver an easy-to-love takeaways neighborhood spot with purposefully constructed sandwiches, a wicked good hamburger, scratch-made pasta dishes and weekly specials. Look for this concept to remain the same, with the addition of an expanded beverage program, when Schulz and Nicholson open for indoor dining. Yes, the menu is limited, and I’m OK with that; sometimes, it’s better to offer the best of what you’re doing than to try to hit too many notes all at once.

600 Brookline Blvd., Brookline; 412/254-2970, oakhillpost.com

Poulet Bleu

The Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group always seems to find the right balance between hospitality, fun and food. I’ve been impressed with owners Richard DeShantz and Tolga Sevdik’s decade-long build-up of their brand and I’m eager to experience its continued development. Of their restaurants, it’s Poulet Bleu that stands out as my overall favorite this year.

Although the restaurant’s bistro menu is pared down from its original list due to the COVID crisis, there is still plenty of goodness to get lost in. Poulet Bleu’s French onion soup is my favorite in town; its oniony, veal-stock broth and broiled cap of Comte and Emmental cheeses is a decadent delight. Aligot potatoes, which also feature those cheeses with a heap and another heap of butter, are an indulgence worth indulging. If you’re looking for something lighter, go for a classic French preparation of mussels with apple cider, leeks and bacon. The desserts at Poulet Bleu are top-notch, too — you could make an end of night memorable with chocolate souffle and one of the restaurant’s beautiful after-dinner spirits.

3519 Butler St., Lawrenceville; 412/325-3435, pouletbleupgh.com

Pusadee’s Garden

I don’t remember the last time I was so excited about a Pittsburgh restaurant opening. Technically, in the case of Pusadee’s Garden, it’s a reopening. Still, when diners arrived in early January, they visited what, start-to-finish, is a brand new restaurant. (I’ve made an exception to the typical end-of-calendar-year cutoff as the restaurant was scheduled to open in December 2020 but had to delay due to public-health and safety measures.) MossArchitects’ transportive, tranquil design includes an open kitchen, glass-box bar and rectangular rooms of semi-private dining, all of which encase a modernist garden courtyard.

I’m blown away by the Pusadee’s Garden menu, which is built on multi-regional Thai dishes and recipes from the Tongdee family’s kitchen, all designed for sharing. Savor the variety of marinated meats charred over slow-burning charcoal on tao stoves, each one dressed to highlight its flavor; lose yourself in the indulgent depth of beef short rib with Penang curry; and brighten your day with smoky, just funky nam prik noom, pulverized eggplants and chilis rolled with lotus root and lettuce. Pusadee’s Garden now has a liquor license, but don’t despair at the end of BYOB; bar manager Curran “Curry” Dewhirst’s innovative cocktail program, as well as the excellent wine cellar, are reasons to celebrate.

5321 Butler St., Lawrenceville; 412/252-2683, pusadeesgarden.com

Sakura Teppanyaki and Sushi

Chef/co-owner Feng Gao’s Shaanxi cuisine speaks to my heart; Sakura is my comfort food restaurant. When I need a pick-me-up, I might order hand-pulled noodles with eggs and tomatoes; when I need to be fired up, it could be those noodles with pork and tingling mala chili oil. I love to gather with friends for celebrations that call for sharing, with steamed or roasted whole fish, hot with blended peppers and studded with vegetables, tofu and thin, chewy noodles as a centerpiece.

For several years, co-owner Fengping Geng, one of Pittsburgh’s most gracious restaurant hosts, invited my friends and me for a make-your-own dumpling Lunar New Year party, but you don’t have to make the dumplings to enjoy some of Pittsburgh’s finest. Just order any of those, and stick to roots-cooking dishes such as the crackly, toothsome Laotongguan pork sandwich, lamb stew and hot-oil noodles from the somewhat lengthy menu, and you’re in for a treat. A note: I’m more biased with this selection than I am with any other establishment on this list. Sakura’s comfort also includes occasional texts from Geng alerting me that her husband has made his pork belly stew and asking would I like to come to pick some up; rich with five-spice, bowls of it gave me solace through the long, pandemic winter.

5882 Forbes Ave., Squirrel Hill; 412/422-7188, sakura-pgh.com

Salem’s Market and Grill

There’s so much I love about Salem’s Market and Grill. My fondness for the restaurant begins with the multicultural dining room — as much as most people don’t like to talk or think about it, Pittsburgh’s dining spaces are too often lacking diversity, and Salem’s is the type of place where you can find a crowd representing the broad cross-section of people who live in the city (sitting in the now-reopened dining room was something I dearly missed, though I did appreciate the expanded outdoor seating). Everyone is there for the outstanding pan-Middle-Eastern cuisine.

The Halal menu is a draw for omnivores and vegetarians alike, with dishes such as lamb kebabs, spinach paneer, shawarma sandwiches and falafel setting the stage for a mouthwatering meal. If you’re having a day where you can’t quite decide what to get from the main menu, the restaurant’s hot bar always presents flavorful options at a reasonable price. Salem’s adjoining market, which owner Abdullah Salem refurbished earlier this year, was one of my go-to spots for pandemic shopping, too — the in-house butcher counter is my favorite in the city.

2923 Penn Ave., Strip District; 412/235-7828, salemsmarketgrill.com

Senti

PHOTO BY CHUCK BEARD

There are just a handful of places in Pittsburgh where I think dressing up is the best way to go, and Senti is one of them. It’s just so elegant, thanks to owner Franco Braccia, who consistently demonstrates why having an owner oversee the front-of-house operations is every bit as valuable as a celebrity chef in the kitchen. The native of Abruzzo, Italy, has worked in the restaurant industry for nearly 40 years. His smart table touches, especially as diners returned to on-premise dining, set the stage for a terrific meal.

Start with seasonal dishes such as arancini con piselli; the crispy fried spheres of risotto, peas and Grana Padano over red-pepper cream sauce sing the joy of springtime. House-made pasta dishes such as the luxuriously layered Veneto style lasagna or the bright fettuccine con ricotta are a must-get, and I would recommend at least one of the main courses for sharing, too. Senti has some terrific cocktails, especially the classics, on its menu, but you’re going to want to delve into the epic wine list, too.

3473 Butler St., Lawrenceville; 412/586-4347, sentirestaurant.com

Spork

PHOTO BY ADAM MILLIRON

I love Spork’s arc to elegance. It took a couple of years for executive chef Christian Frangiadis to fully find his vision, but the chef and his all-star crew have turned the Bloomfield establishment into Pittsburgh’s most elegant dining experience. Frangiadis, who ran some of Pittsburgh’s finest restaurants in the late 1990s and early 2000s prior to taking a decade-long break in the U.S. Virgin Islands, offers a menu that draws from garden-to-table cuisine (the restaurant’s adjacent garden is an enviable operation) and modernist-meets-traditional elements such as koji-curing and global fermentation techniques.

Besides an often-changing menu with dishes such as braised short rib with black-garlic sweet potato puree and dry-aged prime strip steak with foie gras, pecan miso butter, fermented blackberry jelly, roasted poblano cream sauce and duck fat potatoes, Frangiadis offers special menus throughout the year. Combine that with general manager Sean Enright’s dynamic front-of-house staff and a top-notch cocktail program and it’s a destination for special-occasion dining.

5433 Penn Ave., Bloomfield; 412/441-1700, sporkpittsburgh.com

Taiwanese Bistro Cafe 33

I relished the small touch of connection bestowed by Cafe 33 co-owner Jenny Tao every time I picked up food (which was often) during the period when restaurants were operating for takeaway only. It reminded me how much joy we lost without being able to share space with service industry professionals who gain energy from hospitality during carefree dining.

Happily, it didn’t mean missing delight in the enjoyment of dishes such as fish with pickled sour mustard soup, three-cup chicken, and minced pork with chive stems in black bean sauce. Tao’s takeout transition was seamless; even dishes such as scallion pancakes with eggs (a shoo-in to appear on any future feel-good food list I might make) and pan-fried dumplings held up for the time it took to assemble a picnic or home meal. I’m looking forward to returning to one of my favorite dining rooms in Pittsburgh for a renewed sense of interconnectedness.

1711 Shady Ave., Squirrel Hill; 412/421-2717, twcafe33.com

The Speckled Egg

PHOTO BY TOM O’CONNOR

The Speckled Egg is a lovely refuge from the returning hustle and bustle of Downtown. Tucked into the nook in the lobby of the majestic Union Trust building, Jacqueline and Nathan Schoedel’s daytime restaurant weaves elements of a classic diner (with dishes such as buttermilk pancakes, chicken salad sandwiches and eggs and corned beef) with contemporary touches such as avocado toast and cold-pressed juices. All of the dishes are built with quality, mostly locally grown, ingredients and layered flavors.

Here’s a nice bonus — in addition to the quality coffee drinks you’d hope to find at an upscale diner, there’s a fantastic selection of classic and bespoke cocktails, plus beer and wine. Service similarly straddles the line between down-home and upscale; I found that all of the little details were looked after yet never felt intrusive.

501 Grant St., Downtown; 412/251-5248, thespeckledeggpgh.com

Two Not Quite Restaurants That Are Still Best

I’ve thought a lot in the past year about what makes a restaurant a restaurant. Over the years, the criteria for what qualifies as a Best Restaurant have broadened. When I took over writing this list in 2015, it took negotiation to allow for an establishment that didn’t serve dinner or have a lot of seating to be included. This year, I’m including two establishments that continue to break the mold because they both offer some of the best bites in the region.

— HBK

Cafe Agnes

PHOTO BY MARCELLA OGRODNIK

I’ve been gobsmacked with delight, time and time again, since Marcella Ogrodnik launched her Salvadorian popup, Cafe Agnes, in early 2019. Ogrodnik is a Culinary Institute of America graduate who worked at, among other establishments, The French Laundry, Delfina and Cure, as well as serving as chef-in-residence at Villa Lena, an agriturismo and artist’s residency in Tuscany. With Cafe Agnes, she decided to pursue the cuisine of El Salvador, where she holds dual citizenship and lived for some of her high school years, as a way to celebrate the cuisine of the often-maligned country.

At the heart of her menu are pupusas and tamales, both of which begin with aromatic heirloom corn that Ogrodnik nixtamalizes, grinds and kneads into aromatic masa. She stuffs them with ingredients such as roast pork, beans and cheese, mushrooms with roasted poblanos and queso chihuahua, often using ingredients from farmers at the Bloomfield Saturday Market, which was where she set up her stand last season. Ogrodnik introduced a line of salsas, including the lush garlicky heat of salsa negra, last season, too. Look for Cafe Agnes to continue at the Bloomfield and Squirrel Hill markets this season, where Ogrodnik will again cook hot food that highlights Salvadorian dishes in addition to pupusas and tamales while using meat and produce from western Pennsylvania. She will continue to offer frozen versions for takeaway as well.

cafeagnes.com

Fet-Fisk: Royal Market

Fet-Fisk: Royal Market, the pandemic-era iteration of Nik Forsberg and Sarah LaPonte’s formerly ultra-dreamy popup series, hits all the right notes for me. I found jouissance in the array of cured meats, pâtés, prepared and pickled vegetables and condiments on Forsberg’s early smörgåsbords, and have been thoroughly impressed with the way he has developed his offerings to include smoked fish and sausage, confit mushrooms, prepared dishes such as English-style mackerel pie and special offerings such as the Lenten season “Fisk” fries.

Sure, the “dining room” for this takeaway-only spot might be a picnic blanket, your garden or kitchen table, and the offerings are explained in Forsberg’s poetic weekly emails rather than in-person. Still, for me, it made the Fet-Fisk experience all the more extraordinary that the magic held when I transported it to my own space. Look for Fet-Fisk’s prepared foods at the Bloomfield and Lawrenceville farmers markets this season, as well as expanded menus such as Friday evening “Burger Knights” for roadside pick-up at the market. Forsberg says Fet-Fisk popups will return once it feels safe for his crew and for guests to gather indoors again.

800 Mt. Royal Blvd. #9, Shaler; 412/465-0757, fetfisk.net/royal-market

Editor’s note: we have removed the restaurants that have closed since this feature was first published in May 2019 and no new restaurants have been added to the list. Due to COVID-19 safety measures, we recommend you check with individual restaurants regarding service hours and availability of on-premise dining/takeout prior to visiting.

Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2019 Best Restaurants list is shorter than it has been in previous years; 30 establishments are honored. The relative brevity of the list is the result of the continued growth and improvement of Pittsburgh’s restaurant landscape. While it might seem counterintuitive to have a shorter list, we feel it’s a reflection that the standard for inclusion is higher than ever before.

“Does this restaurant fulfill its intention in an exceptional fashion?” is, of course, a subjective question, but I think it gets to the core of what separates a best restaurant from very good restaurants.

We continue, as we have for the last several years, to recognize the importance of broadening the definition of what makes a best restaurant; for us, a multicultural establishment that serves scrumptious food on disposable plates (Salem’s Market & Grill) stands every bit as worthy as the fine dining restaurants included on the list.

You can read more about our selection process here.

Happy dining Pittsburgh.

The list:

Click on the restaurant you want to check out first or continue scrolling through the entire list.

• APTEKA
• BAR MARCO
• BITTER ENDS LUNCHEONETTE
• THE CAFE CARNEGIE
• CAFE ZINHO
• CASBAH
• CHENGDU GOURMET
• DIANOIA’S EATERY
• DINETTE
• DISH OSTERIA & BAR
• DRIFTWOOD OVEN
• ELEVEN CONTEMPORARY KITCHEN
• FISH NOR FOWL
• FL.2
• GAUCHO PARRILLA ARGENTINA
• LAUTREC
• LEGUME BISTRO
• MORCILLA
• BEST NEW RESTAURANT – POULET BLEU
• SALEM’S MARKET & GRILL
• SENTI
• SMOKE BARBEQUE TAQUERIA
• SPORK
• SUPERIOR MOTORS
• TAIWANESE BISTRO CAFE 33
• UMAMI
• VIVO KITCHEN

Related: Best New Restaurants in Pittsburgh in 2019

APTEKA

Cuisine: Central/Eastern European
It’s Best Because: It most uniquely defines a Pittsburgh restaurant in 2019. 

If there is one restaurant that most represents the current pinnacle of the resurgence in Pittsburgh dining, it is Apteka in Bloomfield. Chefs/Owners Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski dig deep into the eastern European culinary traditions that, while mostly lost in our city’s restaurants today, weave through the fabric of Pittsburgh’s culinary history.

At the same time, they lean forward in a way that doesn’t make Apteka feel like a throwback. For example, Lasky and Skowronski offered a char-roasted whole, immature sunflower head brushed with toasted sunflower oil and dressed with smoked peppers, dry cabbage, dill and housemade (vegan) yogurt that felt traditional yet, as far as I know, had never been on a restaurant menu in the United States. Apteka’s bar program follows suit, especially with its Sunday night “Lonely No More” one-off cocktails.

The vibe at Apteka is of-the-now cool, and you can expect service that is cafe casual. Everything served is vegan.

Chefs/Owners Kate Lasky & Tomasz Skowronski
BLOOMFIELD: 4606 Penn Ave.
aptekapgh.com

Get There>

What we’ve said in the past: Pittsburgh’s Best New Restaurant: Apteka

BAR MARCO

Cuisine: Mediterranean
It’s Best Because: It’s the perfect spot for an elevated — yet fun — meal. 

Bar Marco has been my touchstone Pittsburgh restaurant since it opened in 2012 in the Strip District. Over the years, it’s morphed from a wine and cocktail bar with good snacks to an ambitious, assertively aspirational restaurant and then, in the past three years, found its footing as a classy, upbeat gem where everyone feels at home.

Executive Chef Justin Steel’s menu leans Italian, letting high-quality ingredients shine without too much imposition or fussiness. The wine program, led by Sommelier Dominic Fiore, was recognized this year with a semi-finalist nomination for a James Beard Foundation Outstanding Wine Program award for its focus on natural wine. Hat-tip to ownership for fair labor practices at this no-tip restaurant — all of Bar Marco’s full-time staff are on salary.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Justin Steel
STRIP DISTRICT: 2216 Penn Ave.
412/471-1900
barmarcopgh.com

Get There>

What we’ve said in the past: Dish Review: Bar Marco’s Turnaround

BITTER ENDS LUNCHEONETTE

Cuisine: Farm-to-Table
It’s Best Because: Its high-quality, hyper-seasonal ingredients make for tasty eating in a chill atmosphere. 

Becca Hegarty, the thrice-nominated James Beard Foundation Award Rising Star Chef of the Year semifinalist, runs her 17-seat Bloomfield restaurant with a fastidious attention to provenance of ingredients, sourcing produce, grains, meat and eggs from some of the region’s finest farmers. What I love about Bitter Ends is how Hegarty’s attention to quality translates into an experience that’s more akin to old-school breakfast and lunch counters than you’ll find at most newer restaurants.

Expect and embrace a limited menu — it’s a sign that everything served is in-season or properly preserved, and all the dishes are assembled with attention to detail.

Chef/Owner Becca Hegarty
BLOOMFIELD: 4613 Liberty Ave.
tillthebitterends.com

Get There>

What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Bitter Ends Garden & Luncheonette is a Sweet Success

THE CAFE CARNEGIE

Cuisine: American
It’s Best Because: You get to have lunch in a museum. 

Here’s a quality recipe for building one of my favorite lunch destinations in Pittsburgh: Combine one of Pittsburgh’s top chefs with two of the country’s top museums, add a dash of modernist design and finish with attentive service.

Consulting Chef Sonja J Finn (Dinette) and her team offer an energizing menu of balanced salads, tasty sandwiches and seasonal specials that will have your brain and body ready to appreciate the wonders of the Carnegie Museums of Art and Natural History or wherever else your day might take you. The Cafe Carnegie is family-friendly, with a kid’s menu that goes beyond basic with dishes such as an assortment of tea sandwiches and shrimp cocktail.

Consulting Chef Sonja J Finn
OAKLAND: 4400 Forbes Ave.
412/622-3225
thecafecarnegie.com

Get There>

What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: The Cafe Carnegie

PHOTO BY ERIN KELLY

CAFE ZINHO

Cuisine:  Mediterranean
It’s Best Because: Toni Pais is a Pittsburgh legend. 

There are few Pittsburgh meals that are more transportive than sharing an al fresco dinner with a group of friends at Cafe Zinho in Shadyside. It’s easy to feel the magic of the city as the summer breeze is blowing and the conversation is flowing over (BYO) bottles of wine paired with dishes such as impeccably cooked, lightly dressed fresh fish or lamb burger with mint pesto.

Executive Chef/Owner Toni Pais is a legend of the Pittsburgh kitchen, having once operated lauded restaurants such as Baum Vivant in Shadyside (Pittsburgh Magazine’s Restaurant of the Year from 1995-2002) and Cafe Zao Downtown. Cafe Zinho is one of Pittsburgh’s 12 Essential Restaurants.

Executive Chef/Owner Toni Pais
SHADYSIDE: 238 Spahr St.
412/363-1500

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What we’ve said in the past: ReviewCafé Zinho

CASBAH

Cuisine: Mediterranean
It’s Best Because: More than 20 years into its run, Casbah just keeps getting better. 

Here’s the thing I love about Casbah: I can take anyone from my father, who appreciates a classic, straightforward pasta menu, to my brother, who likes to eat fresh and healthy, and they will be thrilled to dig into Casbah’s selection of thoughtfully prepared dishes from a menu of Mediterranean-inspired favorites.

Executive Chef Dustin Gardner manages to keep standbys such as short rib ravioli with oyster mushrooms and Swiss chard worth ordering while keeping things novel by adding nuanced touches such as garnishing tuna tartare with Meyer lemon and celery leaves. Service, cocktails and wine are all top-notch, too. Casbah is one of Pittsburgh’s 12 Essential Restaurants.

Executive Chef Dustin Gardner
SHADYSIDE: 229 S. Highland Ave.
412/661-5656
casbahpgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Casbah Still is Rocking

PHOTO BY ERIN KELLY

CHENGDU GOURMET

Cuisine: Sichuan Chinese
It’s Best Because: It’s one of the best Sichuan restaurants in the United States. 

Chengdu Gourmet Executive Chef/Owner Wei Zhu is a three-year-running James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic for his outstanding Sichuan cookery. Here’s what I tell people when they ask me about visiting the restaurant: It’s much more fun with a group, plan on sharing everything and, if you are new to Sichuan cuisine, feel good about asking a lot of questions.

You’ll want to balance the fiery mala-spiced dishes such as chongqing crispy chicken and cumin lamb with cooling items such as crispy pickled cucumbers and eggplant in garlic sauce. Chengdu Gourmet is BYOB — I recommended pairing your meal with inexpensive lager beer or a high-acid, slightly sweet white wine.

Executive Chef/Owner Wei zhu
Squirrel hill: 5840 Forward Ave.
412/521-2088
chengdugourmet.net

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What we’ve said in the past: Chengdu Gourmet in Squirrel Hill Brings the Heat

DIANOIA’S EATERY

Cuisine: Italian
It’s Best Because: It’s timeless, yet of the moment. 

DiAnoia’s Eatery seamlessly bridges the divide between wildly popular, Instagramable (and also flavorsome) dishes such as Sorrentina-style gnocchi, which comes in its own bread bowl, with rooted Italian cuisine such as porchetta served with its drippings and olive-oil-kissed, pan-roasted branzino served with roasted potatoes and tomatoes. Visit during the day for crushable lunchtime sandwiches and antipasti, and in the morning for beautiful coffee drinks and an egg sandwich that rivals those of New York City bodegas.

Service is top-notch, as is the bar program. In May, Executive Chef/Co-Owner Dave Anoia spun the restaurant’s popular gas-oven pizza into an adjacent space: Pizzeria Davide.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Dave Anoia
STRIP DISTRICT: 2549 Penn Ave.
412/918-1875
dianoiaseatery.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: DiAnoia’s Eatery Bridges the Gap

DINETTE [temporarily closed]

Cuisine: Mediterranean
It’s Best Because: It’s a perfect place to relax with a casual, flavor-forward meal. 

Dinette remains as relevant and vital a force in Pittsburgh dining as when Sonja J Finn opened it in 2008. It’s a perfect spot for an intimate evening with a loved one, and it’s also one of my top recommendations for places to go when you want to pamper yourself to a weeknight evening with a glass of wine, a simple-yet-lovely meal and some quality time with a good book.

Trust the seasonal selections and go with your cravings when ordering from the delectable top-of-the-menu selections; the same advice holds true with Finn’s elevated pizza topping combinations. Fair wages and working conditions, as well as leadership in environmental stewardship, are part of the reason that Dinette is one of Pittsburgh’s 12 Essential Restaurants.

Chef/Owner Sonja J Finn
SHADYSIDE: 5996 Centre Ave.
412/362-0202
dinette-pgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Dinette Now Is a No-Tipping Restaurant

DISH OSTERIA & BAR [temporarily closed]

Cuisine: Mediterranean
It’s Best Because: It’s pure Pittsburgh magic. 

Pittsburgh food lovers mourned in 2017 when Michele and Cindy Savoia announced they were shuttering their 17-year-old Dish Osteria & Bar. We rejoiced in April when what was a closing turned out to be an extended sabbatical. It’s as if the Savoias froze time; all the magic that made Dish one of Pittsburgh’s most beloved restaurants is still there, as are nearly the entire closing staff.

The stunning seafood dishes such as sardines alla griglia and cravable pasta plates such as rigatoni alla scamorza affumicata are as delectable as they ever were. Michele and his brother, Andrea, plus a dynamic front-of-house crew, provide a timeless sense of grace and hospitality. If Dish isn’t already your go-to feel-good destination, it quickly will become so.

Chef/Co-Owner Michele Savoia
SOUTH SIDE: 128 S. 17th St.
412/390-2012
dishosteria.com

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What we said when we learned of the reopening: Dish Osteria Will Reopen This Spring

DRIFTWOOD OVEN

Cuisine: Pizza
It’s Best Because: It’s a family-friendly pizza joint with a lot of nice touches. 

Pittsburgh went ga-ga when author/model Chrissy Teigen tweeted in February about how much she loved Driftwood Oven. It caused a bit of a frenzy (and some very long lines) for a few weeks, but it also clued people in to what a lot of us already knew: Neil Blazin and Justin Vetter’s brick-and-mortar version of their once-mobile pizzaria is outstanding.

Blazin, the baker, prepares stellar pizzas risen with a natural starter. His menu also includes farm-to-table salads and sourdough sandwiches such as mortadella with spicy pickled peppers. Vetter oversees an energetic, attentive and friendly front-of-house staff. We appreciate that Blazin and Vetter provide a fair wage for those workers, too. And here’s a nice bonus: Driftwood Oven is family-friendly.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Neil Blazin
LAWRENCEVILLE: 3615 Butler St.
412/251-0253
driftwoodoven.com

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What we’ve said in the past: All Ashore! Driftwood Oven Lands A Permanent Home

PHOTO BY ERIN KELLY

ELEVEN CONTEMPORARY KITCHEN

Cuisine: American
It’s Best Because: It’s an anchor in Pittsburgh dining. 

As the Strip District undergoes its most significant transformation in decades, Eleven Contemporary Kitchen provides a much-needed sense of upscale continuity. Eli Wahl helms the kitchen of the big Burrito Restaurant Group’s flagship restaurant, which since 2004 has elevated dining in Pittsburgh.

The dinner menu features dishes such as roasted carrots with parsnip purée, madeira-orange reduction, almond crunch and spicy greens as well as wild Alaskan halibut with pea puree, trumpet mushrooms, ramps and crispy spelt; seasonal tasting menus such as “Celebration of Spring” continue to wow, too. If you’re a Pittsburgher who hasn’t tried Eleven because you’re always visiting newer restaurants, I encourage a visit. If you’re a conventioneer or other traveler staying Downtown, it’s worth the short walk to dine at this always-excellent establishment.

Executive Chef Eli Wahl
STRIP DISTRICT: 1150 Smallman St.
412/201-5656
elevenck.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Pittsburgh Chef of the Year: Bill Fuller

FISH NOR FOWL [temporarily closed]

Cuisine: Modern American
It’s Best Because: It brings culinary adventure back to a once-favorite space.

Fish Nor Fowl, the sixth standalone concept from the Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group, Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2019 Restaurateurs of the Year, is firing on all cylinders in the former Salt of the Earth space. Executive Chef /Partner Dan Carlton’s modern American menu features a selection of shareable dishes that change with the weather — some standouts from this year include halibut collar with lemon and butter, farfalle with uni, baby corn, chervil and lime and burrata with citrus, fennel and bitter greens.

General Manager Maggie Meskey oversees an exemplary front of house staff, the cocktail program ranks in Pittsburgh’s top-tier and DeShantz’s modern-hygge design makes for an outstanding experience.

Executive Chef/Partner Dan Carlton
GARFIELD: 5523 Penn Ave.
412/460-4644
fishnorfowlpgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past:
Pittsburgh Restaurant Review: Fish nor Fowl

FL.2

Cuisine: American
It’s Best Because: It’s an all-around excellent experience. 

Earlier this year, while eating a coconut-chia parfait and sipping on a vivid blend of fresh-pressed juices in fl.2’s stunning dining room, I was reminded about how luxurious it feels to enjoy an elegant breakfast in a beautiful space. But I typically go to fl.2 in the evening, which is when the restaurant’s extraordinarily talented executive chef, Julio Peraza, oversees one of the best dinner menus in Pittsburgh.

Start with kampachi sashimi dressed with white seaweed, citrus and white soy-yuzu, and then share a whole rotisserie chicken or locally raised trout with all the trimmings. Attending one of Peraza’s collaborative chefs’ dinner series is always a treat, too.

DOWNTOWN: 510 Market St., second floor
412/773-8848
fl2pgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past:
Pittsburgh Restaurant Review: fl.2 Is a Level Up

GAUCHO PARRILLA ARGENTINA

Cuisine: Argentine
It’s Best Because: You get to eat all the meats, cooked over fire. 

Several of my best mealtime memories in Pittsburgh involve gathering with a few friends and a few bottles of (BYO) wine and crushing all the meats at Gaucho Parrilla Argentina, owner Anthony Falcon’s Strip District ode to asado. Sure, sometimes there is a long-ish line, but when you’re with the right people, waiting can be part of the fun (tip: go for an off-hour lunch if lines aren’t your thing).

For a proper feast, step up to the counter and order the asado platter, which includes five cuts of steak, and add some sides such as roasted carrots, roasted potatoes with garlic and rosemary, an El Gaucho salad and provoleta.

Executive Chef Matthew Neal
Updated address
DOWNTOWN: 146 6th St.
412/709-6622
eat-gaucho.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Gaucho Parrilla Argentina is Smokin’

LAUTREC

Cuisine: Fine Dining
It’s Best Because: It’s most worthy of a long drive just for dinner. 

Lautrec, the fine-dining restaurant at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort, is more than 60 miles from Pittsburgh, yet it maintains a place on this list because of how extraordinary an experience it is to dine there. Executive Chef Kristin A. Butterworth combines classic technique with a farm-to-table ethos to craft a menu full of visually and gastronomically stunning dishes.

Butterworth’s prix fixe menu is a delicious salute to the seasons, and her chef’s table menu is an magnificent delight. Also on the table — an outstanding wine list.

Executive Chef Kristin A. Butterworth
NEMACOLIN WOODLANDS RESORT, FARMINGTON, FAYETTE COUNTY: 1001 Lafayette Drive
724/329-8555
nemacolin.com/dining/fine-dining/lautrec

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What we’ve said in the past: Profile of Kristin A. Butterworth

LEGUME BISTRO

Cuisine: American
It’s Best Because: It’s matured into an all-around outstanding dining experience.

Legume Bistro, the 12-year-old restaurant from Trevett and Sarah Hooper, has developed into one of Pittsburgh’s most mature restaurants — a smart and personable front-of-house staff set the mood for an attentive dining experience, and the kitchen’s deep commitment to following the rhythm of western Pennsylvania’s seasons means the menu changes in little ways nearly every day.

I appreciate the zing of preserved ingredients in the winter, the pop of fresh produce in spring, the brightness of summer’s best and the richness of foraged fall. Csilla Thackray, formerly of The Vandal and Bar Marco, joined the culinary staff as chef de cuisine earlier this year. Legume is one of Pittsburgh’s 12 Essential Restaurants.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Trevett Hooper
OAKLAND: 214 N. Craig St.
412/621-2700
legumebistro.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Legume Bistro Turns 10

MORCILLA

Cuisine: Spanish
It’s Best Because: Its Spanish-influenced snacks, shareable big plates and a low-key excellent cocktail program make for a powerhouse of a meal. 

Although Pittsburgh eating aficionados mourn the closing of Cure, Justin Severino’s culinary prowess (and his absurdly amazing charcuterie) lives on at his other restaurant, Morcilla. He works with Executive Chef Nate Hobart to offer a delectable array of Spanish-influenced snacks such as Spanish mackerel escabeche with espelette aioli, fennel and saffron, plus large-format dishes such as cider-braised chicken with calasparra rice and herbs.

The dining room — now with better sound-proofing — is terrific for group dining, and the bar area is perfect for casual snacks accompanied by some of the bars quaffable cocktails, ciders, gin tonics and selections from its deep sherry list.

Executive Chef Nate Hobart
​​LAWRENCEVILLE: 3519 Butler St.
412/652-9924
morcillapittsburgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Re-Open Date Set for Morcilla in Lawrenceville

BEST NEW RESTAURANT – POULET BLEU

Cuisine: French
It’s Best Because: Dining at Poulet Bleu is a transportive experience. 

Poulet Bleu is the Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group’s first foray from its Downtown core of bar/restaurants, and it’s a grand success, earning this year’s award for Best New Restaurant.

DeShantz’s tempting French bistro menu tilts to the classics with dishes such as seared foie gras with tart cherries and apple compote, trout almondine and boeuf bourguignon. And don’t get me started about the French onion soup; its rich broth is resonant with deeply caramelized onions, veal stock and Cognac, and the crust of melted Comte and Emmental cheeses is a savory blanket.

Pastry Chef James D. Wrobleski III’s winning dessert menu features stunners such as chocolate souffle and pavlova. Wine maestro John Wabeck curated the French-heavy wine list, and classic cocktails shine on the bar menu. DeShantz went classic with his design choices, too. Soft blue and white are the dominant tones; accented with brass and pewter, they speak to an era of refined dining. The Polynesian-influenced upstairs bar is a swell getaway, too.

Executive Chef Richard DeShantz
LAWRENCEVILLE: 3519 Butler St.
412/325-3435
pouletbleupgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Poulet Bleu

SALEM’S MARKET & GRILL

Cuisine: Middle Eastern
It’s Best Because: It’s budget-friendly, delicious and welcoming. 

I love the lunchtime hubbub at Salem’s Market & Grill. Come prepared for bare-bones ambience and amenities that are balanced by warm hospitality and fantastic food. The diversity of its clientele is a reflection of the population of the city — it’s the Pittsburgh restaurant where you’ll most likely be surrounded by people who come from a different background than you do.

Pittsburghers of all stripes line up for generous hot-bar portions of goat curry, tandoori chicken and daily specials such as grilled fish, or order items such as shish tawook, chicken shawarma and kufta kebab from the grill menu.

General Manager/Owner Abdullah Salem
STRIP DISTRICT: 2923 Penn Ave.
412/235-7828
salemsmarketgrill.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Salem’s Market & Grill in the Strip District

SENTI

Cuisine: Italian
It’s Best Because: Franco Braccia and his staff bring upscale Italian to Lawrenceville. 

Senti’s low-key exterior makes it easy to miss, which is a shame because once you’re inside, it’s a real treat. Pittsburgh is lucky to have owner Franco Braccia running front-of-house service; his ability to read and react to what a table needs is extraordinary.

Chef Antonio Garcia’s Italian classics such as ossobuco di Maiale (pork shank braised in white wine, served with creamy polenta and gremolata) are stunners and, this year, Chef Jon Sterrett introduced a culinary counterpoint; his “Nuovo” menu features progressive Italian dishes such as gnocchi with braised lamb ragù and a mint kombucha palette cleanser and baby carrots with chili oil, caramelized ricotta, pomegranate seeds, parsley and carrot-ginger foam.

Chefs Antonio Garcia and Jon Sterrett
​LAWRENCEVILLE: 3473 Butler St.
412/586-4347
sentirestaurant.com

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SMOKE BARBEQUE TAQUERIA

Cuisine: Barbeque
It’s Best Because: Barbecue comes nestled in house-made tortillas and that sparks all the joy. 

There are few categories of food I enjoy as much as smoked meats, and Smoke, which owners Jeff Petruso and Nelda Carranco moved from its original Homestead location to Lawrenceville in 2014, hits squarely in my happy place.

Petruso’s Oyler Pit smoker perfumes the neighborhood as brisket, pork shoulder, ribs and other cuts of meat slow-cook to perfection. Eat them with accoutrements inside house-made flour tortillas or enjoy them on their own. And jump on daily specials such as Cubano quesadilla, pastrami tacos, and, when they have them, hamburgers.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Jeff Petruso
LAWRENCEVILLE: 4115 Butler St.
412/224-2070
smokepgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Flavorful Tacos are Main Attraction at Lawrenceville’s SMOKE

SPORK

Cuisine: American
It’s Best Because: The garden-to-table meets modern American menu always feels right for the season. 

Executive Chef Christian Frangiadis sat at the pinnacle of Pittsburgh dining in the late 1990s. After more than a decade in the Caribbean — and a few years finding his footing at Spork — he’s climbed back to the top of the peak.

The restaurant’s backyard garden provides stunningly fresh produce during the growing season, and its preservation program provides accents for dishes throughout the winter. Elegant touches such as tableside preparation of pressed dry-aged duck are complemented by a fun vibe, attentive service and an outstanding cocktail program.

Executive Chef Christian Frangiadis
BLOOMFIELD: 5430 Penn Ave.
412/441-1700
sporkpittsburgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: An Impressive Duck Lands at Spork in Bloomfield

SUPERIOR MOTORS [temporarily closed]

Cuisine: New American
It’s Best Because: It’s innovative and also fun. 

Pittsburgh Magazine’s Best New Restaurant of 2018 keeps rolling strong, with Executive Chef/Co-Owner Kevin Sousa deepening his exploration of what new American cookery means. Dishes such as mackerel with shoyu, leek, mushroom and dill are rooted in our region while at the same time draw from global influences. Pair those dishes with a selection or two from Superior Motors’ superlative beverage program.

Sousa’s introduction of a series of collaborative dinners with like-minded chefs and reasonably priced weekday tasting menus gives diners even more of a reason to visit the Braddock restaurant.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Kevin Sousa
BRADDOCK: 1211 Braddock Ave.
412/271-1022
superiormotors15104.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Best New Restaurant of 2018: Superior Motors

TAIWANESE BISTRO CAFE 33

Cuisine: Taiwanese
It’s Best Because: You get real-deal Taiwanese cuisine paired with excellent service. 

In what used to be a laundromat is now the best Taiwanese restaurant menu in Pittsburgh. Executive Chef/Co-Owner Asan Tao’s menu is full of tasty hits such as three-cup chicken, scallion pancake with egg or beef (I prefer the egg), pan-fried noodles and beef stew noodle soup. Look into the deeper cuts, too — dishes such as turnip cake, tripe with vegetables and jellyfish with celery salad are also worth your attention.

Co-Owner Jenny Tao makes the bubble tea — testing each batch from a tiny cup — and oversees the front-of-house staff; if you’re unfamiliar with Taiwanese cuisine, be sure to lean on them as your guide.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Asan Tao
SQUIRREL HILL: 1711 Shady Ave.
412/421-2717
twcafe33.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Taiwanese Bistro Cafe 33

UMAMI

Cuisine: Japanese
It’s Best Because: It’s the spot for late night fun with good eats. 

Pittsburgh’s late-night options are scant. At Umami, the culinary party lasts deeper into the night than most establishments, and what they’re serving satisfies a craving better than just about anything else.

Hungry revelers can indulge in Umami’s tasty bites from the robatayaki and sushi menus, as well as succulent diversions such as pork gyoza and yaki udon until midnight on weeknights and 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights. The sake list is good, and there often is a D.J. keeping the vibes just right. Look for an omakase-only sushi counter from owners Roger Li and Derek Brunell later this year.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Roger Li
LAWRENCEVILLE: 202 38th St.
412/224-2354
umamipgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Umami in Lawrenceville

VIVO KITCHEN

Cuisine: Mediterranean
It’s Best Because: It’s a suburban restaurant worth driving to from the city. 

Vivo Executive Chef/Co-Owner Sam DiBattista has the old-school, new-school hybrid energy that many of us aim to age into. He’s been at it longer than nearly any other chef on this list, yet his menu and his swagger translates as contemporary. What this means are dishes such as stinging nettle risotto with roasted fiddlehead ferns and ramps.

DiBattista also offers my favorite chicken deal in the region — his crispy whole chicken with garlic is a must get at $19.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Sabatino “Sam” DiBattista
SEWICKLEY: 432 Beaver St.
412/259-8945
vivokitchen.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Tearing into a Whole Chicken at Vivo

How We Made Our Choices

Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2019 Best Restaurants list is shorter than it has been in previous years; 30 establishments are honored. The relative brevity of the list is the result of the continued growth and improvement of Pittsburgh’s restaurant landscape. While it might seem counterintuitive to have a shorter list, we feel it’s a reflection that the standard for inclusion is higher than ever before.

“Does this restaurant fulfill its intention in an exceptional fashion?” is, of course, a subjective question, but I think it gets to the core of what separates a best restaurant from very good restaurants.

Spork, for example, makes the list for the first time because the culinary and management team of the three-year-old restaurant has honed-in on its menu and cocktail programs, as well as incorporated an impressive garden-to-table ecosystem. It’s also why Chengdu Gourmet remains on the list and remains one of my favorite restaurants in Pittsburgh. Although the restaurant is light on atmosphere, executive chef/owner Wei Zhu’s commitment to bettering his craft, including a trip to China for advanced culinary classes this year, keeps the restaurant leaning forward, making it part of a larger conversation about Sichuan cuisine in the United States.

We continue, as we have for the last several years, to recognize the importance of broadening the definition of what makes a best restaurant; for us, a multicultural establishment that serves scrumptious food on disposable plates (Salem’s Market & Grill) stands every bit as worthy as the fine dining restaurants included on the list.

One thing that I’m thinking about this year more than ever before is how ownership treats its employees. There aren’t any restaurants that qualified for this list solely on the virtue of virtuousness, but I do think that a new addition this year, Driftwood Oven, as well as other longstanding establishments, deserve a nod of support for ensuring that their employees are looked after (Driftwood Oven’s owners are part of the Legume family tree).

We also made a rare exception to our policy that a restaurant must have opened by the final day of the previous calendar year to be included on the list. Dish Osteria & Bar reopened in April following a two-year hiatus; aside from some welcome soundproofing added to the dining room it was as if time had stood still. The beloved establishment, which first opened in 2000, is every bit as magical as it ever was and thus it appears on this list.

Finally, this year marks a new way of doing things around here: for the past 24 years, our list was selected by a committee. A pared down version of that committee remains and their advice is invaluable, but this list is fully the determination of the editorial staff of Pittsburgh Magazine.

Happy dining, Pittsburgh.

Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2019 Best Restaurants list is shorter than it has been in previous years; 30 establishments are honored. The relative brevity of the list is the result of the continued growth and improvement of Pittsburgh’s restaurant landscape. While it might seem counterintuitive to have a shorter list, we feel it’s a reflection that the standard for inclusion is higher than ever before.

“Does this restaurant fulfill its intention in an exceptional fashion?” is, of course, a subjective question, but I think it gets to the core of what separates a best restaurant from very good restaurants.

We continue, as we have for the last several years, to recognize the importance of broadening the definition of what makes a best restaurant; for us, a multicultural establishment that serves scrumptious food on disposable plates (Salem’s Market & Grill) stands every bit as worthy as the fine dining restaurants included on the list.

You can read more about our selection process here.

Happy dining Pittsburgh.

The list:

Click on the restaurant you want to check out first or continue scrolling through the entire list.

• APTEKA
• BAR MARCO
• BITTER ENDS LUNCHEONETTE
• THE CAFE CARNEGIE
• CAFE ZINHO
• CASBAH
• CHENGDU GOURMET
• DIANOIA’S EATERY
• DINETTE
• DISH OSTERIA & BAR
• DRIFTWOOD OVEN
• ELEVEN CONTEMPORARY KITCHEN
• FISH NOR FOWL
• FL.2
• GAUCHO PARRILLA ARGENTINA
• LAUTREC
• LEGUME BISTRO
• MORCILLA
• BEST NEW RESTAURANT – POULET BLEU
• SALEM’S MARKET & GRILL
• SENTI
• SMOKE BARBEQUE TAQUERIA
• SPOON
• SPORK
• SUPERIOR MOTORS
• TAIWANESE BISTRO CAFE 33
• THE TWISTED FRENCHMAN
• UMAMI
• UNION STANDARD
• VIVO KITCHEN

Related: Best New Restaurants in Pittsburgh in 2019

APTEKA

Cuisine: Central/Eastern European
It’s Best Because: It most uniquely defines a Pittsburgh restaurant in 2019. 

If there is one restaurant that most represents the current pinnacle of the resurgence in Pittsburgh dining, it is Apteka in Bloomfield. Chefs/Owners Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski dig deep into the eastern European culinary traditions that, while mostly lost in our city’s restaurants today, weave through the fabric of Pittsburgh’s culinary history.

At the same time, they lean forward in a way that doesn’t make Apteka feel like a throwback. For example, Lasky and Skowronski offered a char-roasted whole, immature sunflower head brushed with toasted sunflower oil and dressed with smoked peppers, dry cabbage, dill and housemade (vegan) yogurt that felt traditional yet, as far as I know, had never been on a restaurant menu in the United States. Apteka’s bar program follows suit, especially with its Sunday night “Lonely No More” one-off cocktails.

The vibe at Apteka is of-the-now cool, and you can expect service that is cafe casual. Everything served is vegan.

Chefs/Owners Kate Lasky & Tomasz Skowronski
BLOOMFIELD: 4606 Penn Ave.
aptekapgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Pittsburgh’s Best New Restaurant: Apteka

BAR MARCO

Cuisine: Mediterranean
It’s Best Because: It’s the perfect spot for an elevated — yet fun — meal. 

Bar Marco has been my touchstone Pittsburgh restaurant since it opened in 2012 in the Strip District. Over the years, it’s morphed from a wine and cocktail bar with good snacks to an ambitious, assertively aspirational restaurant and then, in the past three years, found its footing as a classy, upbeat gem where everyone feels at home.

Executive Chef Justin Steel’s menu leans Italian, letting high-quality ingredients shine without too much imposition or fussiness. The wine program, led by Sommelier Dominic Fiore, was recognized this year with a semi-finalist nomination for a James Beard Foundation Outstanding Wine Program award for its focus on natural wine. Hat-tip to ownership for fair labor practices at this no-tip restaurant — all of Bar Marco’s full-time staff are on salary.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Justin Steel
STRIP DISTRICT: 2216 Penn Ave.
412/471-1900
barmarcopgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Dish Review: Bar Marco’s Turnaround

BITTER ENDS LUNCHEONETTE

Cuisine: Farm-to-Table
It’s Best Because: Its high-quality, hyper-seasonal ingredients make for tasty eating in a chill atmosphere. 

Becca Hegarty, the thrice-nominated James Beard Foundation Award Rising Star Chef of the Year semifinalist, runs her 17-seat Bloomfield restaurant with a fastidious attention to provenance of ingredients, sourcing produce, grains, meat and eggs from some of the region’s finest farmers. What I love about Bitter Ends is how Hegarty’s attention to quality translates into an experience that’s more akin to old-school breakfast and lunch counters than you’ll find at most newer restaurants.

Expect and embrace a limited menu — it’s a sign that everything served is in-season or properly preserved, and all the dishes are assembled with attention to detail.

Chef/Owner Becca Hegarty
BLOOMFIELD: 4613 Liberty Ave.
tillthebitterends.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Bitter Ends Garden & Luncheonette is a Sweet Success

THE CAFE CARNEGIE

Cuisine: American
It’s Best Because: You get to have lunch in a museum. 

Here’s a quality recipe for building one of my favorite lunch destinations in Pittsburgh: Combine one of Pittsburgh’s top chefs with two of the country’s top museums, add a dash of modernist design and finish with attentive service.

Consulting Chef Sonja J Finn (Dinette) and her team offer an energizing menu of balanced salads, tasty sandwiches and seasonal specials that will have your brain and body ready to appreciate the wonders of the Carnegie Museums of Art and Natural History or wherever else your day might take you. The Cafe Carnegie is family-friendly, with a kid’s menu that goes beyond basic with dishes such as an assortment of tea sandwiches and shrimp cocktail.

Consulting Chef Sonja J Finn
OAKLAND: 4400 Forbes Ave.
412/622-3225
thecafecarnegie.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: The Cafe Carnegie

photo by erin kelly

CAFE ZINHO

Cuisine:  Mediterranean
It’s Best Because: Toni Pais is a Pittsburgh legend. 

There are few Pittsburgh meals that are more transportive than sharing an al fresco dinner with a group of friends at Cafe Zinho in Shadyside. It’s easy to feel the magic of the city as the summer breeze is blowing and the conversation is flowing over (BYO) bottles of wine paired with dishes such as impeccably cooked, lightly dressed fresh fish or lamb burger with mint pesto.

Executive Chef/Owner Toni Pais is a legend of the Pittsburgh kitchen, having once operated lauded restaurants such as Baum Vivant in Shadyside (Pittsburgh Magazine’s Restaurant of the Year from 1995-2002) and Cafe Zao Downtown. Cafe Zinho is one of Pittsburgh’s 12 Essential Restaurants.

Executive Chef/Owner Toni Pais
SHADYSIDE: 238 Spahr St.
412/363-1500

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What we’ve said in the past: ReviewCafé Zinho

CASBAH

Cuisine: Mediterranean
It’s Best Because: More than 20 years into its run, Casbah just keeps getting better. 

Here’s the thing I love about Casbah: I can take anyone from my father, who appreciates a classic, straightforward pasta menu, to my brother, who likes to eat fresh and healthy, and they will be thrilled to dig into Casbah’s selection of thoughtfully prepared dishes from a menu of Mediterranean-inspired favorites.

Executive Chef Dustin Gardner manages to keep standbys such as short rib ravioli with oyster mushrooms and Swiss chard worth ordering while keeping things novel by adding nuanced touches such as garnishing tuna tartare with Meyer lemon and celery leaves. Service, cocktails and wine are all top-notch, too. Casbah is one of Pittsburgh’s 12 Essential Restaurants.

Executive Chef Dustin Gardner
SHADYSIDE: 229 S. Highland Ave.
412/661-5656
casbahpgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Casbah Still is Rocking

photo by erin kelly

CHENGDU GOURMET

Cuisine: Sichuan Chinese
It’s Best Because: It’s one of the best Sichuan restaurants in the United States. 

Chengdu Gourmet Executive Chef/Owner Wei Zhu is a three-year-running James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic for his outstanding Sichuan cookery. Here’s what I tell people when they ask me about visiting the restaurant: It’s much more fun with a group, plan on sharing everything and, if you are new to Sichuan cuisine, feel good about asking a lot of questions.

You’ll want to balance the fiery mala-spiced dishes such as chongqing crispy chicken and cumin lamb with cooling items such as crispy pickled cucumbers and eggplant in garlic sauce. Chengdu Gourmet is BYOB — I recommended pairing your meal with inexpensive lager beer or a high-acid, slightly sweet white wine.

Executive Chef/Owner Wei zhu
Squirrel hill: 5840 Forward Ave.
412/521-2088
chengdugourmet.net

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What we’ve said in the past: Chengdu Gourmet in Squirrel Hill Brings the Heat

DIANOIA’S EATERY

Cuisine: Italian
It’s Best Because: It’s timeless, yet of the moment. 

DiAnoia’s Eatery seamlessly bridges the divide between wildly popular, Instagramable (and also flavorsome) dishes such as Sorrentina-style gnocchi, which comes in its own bread bowl, with rooted Italian cuisine such as porchetta served with its drippings and olive-oil-kissed, pan-roasted branzino served with roasted potatoes and tomatoes. Visit during the day for crushable lunchtime sandwiches and antipasti, and in the morning for beautiful coffee drinks and an egg sandwich that rivals those of New York City bodegas.

Service is top-notch, as is the bar program. In May, Executive Chef/Co-Owner Dave Anoia spun the restaurant’s popular gas-oven pizza into an adjacent space: Pizzeria Davide.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Dave Anoia
STRIP DISTRICT: 2549 Penn Ave.
412/918-1875
dianoiaseatery.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: DiAnoia’s Eatery Bridges the Gap

DINETTE

Cuisine: Mediterranean
It’s Best Because: It’s a perfect place to relax with a casual, flavor-forward meal. 

Dinette remains as relevant and vital a force in Pittsburgh dining as when Sonja J Finn opened it in 2008. It’s a perfect spot for an intimate evening with a loved one, and it’s also one of my top recommendations for places to go when you want to pamper yourself to a weeknight evening with a glass of wine, a simple-yet-lovely meal and some quality time with a good book.

Trust the seasonal selections and go with your cravings when ordering from the delectable top-of-the-menu selections; the same advice holds true with Finn’s elevated pizza topping combinations. Fair wages and working conditions, as well as leadership in environmental stewardship, are part of the reason that Dinette is one of Pittsburgh’s 12 Essential Restaurants.

Chef/Owner Sonja J Finn
SHADYSIDE: 5996 Centre Ave.
412/362-0202
dinette-pgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Dinette Now Is a No-Tipping Restaurant

DISH OSTERIA & BAR

Cuisine: Mediterranean
It’s Best Because: It’s pure Pittsburgh magic. 

Pittsburgh food lovers mourned in 2017 when Michele and Cindy Savoia announced they were shuttering their 17-year-old Dish Osteria & Bar. We rejoiced in April when what was a closing turned out to be an extended sabbatical. It’s as if the Savoias froze time; all the magic that made Dish one of Pittsburgh’s most beloved restaurants is still there, as are nearly the entire closing staff.

The stunning seafood dishes such as sardines alla griglia and cravable pasta plates such as rigatoni alla scamorza affumicata are as delectable as they ever were. Michele and his brother, Andrea, plus a dynamic front-of-house crew, provide a timeless sense of grace and hospitality. If Dish isn’t already your go-to feel-good destination, it quickly will become so.

Chef/Co-Owner Michele Savoia
SOUTH SIDE: 128 S. 17th St.
412/390-2012
dishosteria.com

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What we said when we learned of the reopening: Dish Osteria Will Reopen This Spring

DRIFTWOOD OVEN

Cuisine: Pizza
It’s Best Because: It’s a family-friendly pizza joint with a lot of nice touches. 

Pittsburgh went ga-ga when author/model Chrissy Teigen tweeted in February about how much she loved Driftwood Oven. It caused a bit of a frenzy (and some very long lines) for a few weeks, but it also clued people in to what a lot of us already knew: Neil Blazin and Justin Vetter’s brick-and-mortar version of their once-mobile pizzaria is outstanding.

Blazin, the baker, prepares stellar pizzas risen with a natural starter. His menu also includes farm-to-table salads and sourdough sandwiches such as mortadella with spicy pickled peppers. Vetter oversees an energetic, attentive and friendly front-of-house staff. We appreciate that Blazin and Vetter provide a fair wage for those workers, too. And here’s a nice bonus: Driftwood Oven is family-friendly.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Neil Blazin
LAWRENCEVILLE: 3615 Butler St.
412/251-0253
driftwoodoven.com

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What we’ve said in the past: All Ashore! Driftwood Oven Lands A Permanent Home

photo by erin kelly

ELEVEN CONTEMPORARY KITCHEN

Cuisine: American
It’s Best Because: It’s an anchor in Pittsburgh dining. 

As the Strip District undergoes its most significant transformation in decades, Eleven Contemporary Kitchen provides a much-needed sense of upscale continuity. Eli Wahl helms the kitchen of the big Burrito Restaurant Group’s flagship restaurant, which since 2004 has elevated dining in Pittsburgh.

The dinner menu features dishes such as roasted carrots with parsnip purée, madeira-orange reduction, almond crunch and spicy greens as well as wild Alaskan halibut with pea puree, trumpet mushrooms, ramps and crispy spelt; seasonal tasting menus such as “Celebration of Spring” continue to wow, too. If you’re a Pittsburgher who hasn’t tried Eleven because you’re always visiting newer restaurants, I encourage a visit. If you’re a conventioneer or other traveler staying Downtown, it’s worth the short walk to dine at this always-excellent establishment.

Executive Chef Eli Wahl
STRIP DISTRICT: 1150 Smallman St.
412/201-5656
elevenck.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Pittsburgh Chef of the Year: Bill Fuller

FISH NOR FOWL

Cuisine: Modern American
It’s Best Because: It brings culinary adventure back to a once-favorite space.

Fish Nor Fowl, the sixth standalone concept from the Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group, Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2019 Restaurateurs of the Year, is firing on all cylinders in the former Salt of the Earth space. Executive Chef /Partner Dan Carlton’s modern American menu features a selection of shareable dishes that change with the weather — some standouts from this year include halibut collar with lemon and butter, farfalle with uni, baby corn, chervil and lime and burrata with citrus, fennel and bitter greens.

General Manager Maggie Meskey oversees an exemplary front of house staff, the cocktail program ranks in Pittsburgh’s top-tier and DeShantz’s modern-hygge design makes for an outstanding experience.

Executive Chef/Partner Dan Carlton
GARFIELD: 5523 Penn Ave.
412/460-4644
fishnorfowlpgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past:
Pittsburgh Restaurant Review: Fish nor Fowl

FL.2

Cuisine: American
It’s Best Because: It’s an all-around excellent experience. 

Earlier this year, while eating a coconut-chia parfait and sipping on a vivid blend of fresh-pressed juices in fl.2’s stunning dining room, I was reminded about how luxurious it feels to enjoy an elegant breakfast in a beautiful space. But I typically go to fl.2 in the evening, which is when the restaurant’s extraordinarily talented executive chef, Julio Peraza, oversees one of the best dinner menus in Pittsburgh.

Start with kampachi sashimi dressed with white seaweed, citrus and white soy-yuzu, and then share a whole rotisserie chicken or locally raised trout with all the trimmings. Attending one of Peraza’s collaborative chefs’ dinner series is always a treat, too.

Executive Chef Julio Peraza
DOWNTOWN: 510 Market St., second floor
412/773-8848
fl2pgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past:
Pittsburgh Restaurant Review: fl.2 Is a Level Up

GAUCHO PARRILLA ARGENTINA

Cuisine: Argentine
It’s Best Because: You get to eat all the meats, cooked over fire. 

Several of my best mealtime memories in Pittsburgh involve gathering with a few friends and a few bottles of (BYO) wine and crushing all the meats at Gaucho Parrilla Argentina, owner Anthony Falcon’s Strip District ode to asado. Sure, sometimes there is a long-ish line, but when you’re with the right people, waiting can be part of the fun (tip: go for an off-hour lunch if lines aren’t your thing).

For a proper feast, step up to the counter and order the asado platter, which includes five cuts of steak, and add some sides such as roasted carrots, roasted potatoes with garlic and rosemary, an El Gaucho salad and provoleta.

Executive Chef Matthew Neal
STRIP DISTRICT: 1601 Penn Ave.
412/709-6622
eat-gaucho.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Gaucho Parrilla Argentina is Smokin’

LAUTREC

Cuisine: Fine Dining
It’s Best Because: It’s most worthy of a long drive just for dinner. 

Lautrec, the fine-dining restaurant at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort, is more than 60 miles from Pittsburgh, yet it maintains a place on this list because of how extraordinary an experience it is to dine there. Executive Chef Kristin A. Butterworth combines classic technique with a farm-to-table ethos to craft a menu full of visually and gastronomically stunning dishes.

Butterworth’s prix fixe menu is a delicious salute to the seasons, and her chef’s table menu is an magnificent delight. Also on the table — an outstanding wine list.

Executive Chef Kristin A. Butterworth
NEMACOLIN WOODLANDS RESORT, FARMINGTON, FAYETTE COUNTY: 1001 Lafayette Drive
724/329-8555
nemacolin.com/dining/fine-dining/lautrec

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What we’ve said in the past: Profile of Kristin A. Butterworth

LEGUME BISTRO

Cuisine: American
It’s Best Because: It’s matured into an all-around outstanding dining experience.

Legume Bistro, the 12-year-old restaurant from Trevett and Sarah Hooper, has developed into one of Pittsburgh’s most mature restaurants — a smart and personable front-of-house staff set the mood for an attentive dining experience, and the kitchen’s deep commitment to following the rhythm of western Pennsylvania’s seasons means the menu changes in little ways nearly every day.

I appreciate the zing of preserved ingredients in the winter, the pop of fresh produce in spring, the brightness of summer’s best and the richness of foraged fall. Csilla Thackray, formerly of The Vandal and Bar Marco, joined the culinary staff as chef de cuisine earlier this year. Legume is one of Pittsburgh’s 12 Essential Restaurants.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Trevett Hooper
OAKLAND: 214 N. Craig St.
412/621-2700
legumebistro.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Legume Bistro Turns 10

MORCILLA

Cuisine: Spanish
It’s Best Because: Its Spanish-influenced snacks, shareable big plates and a low-key excellent cocktail program make for a powerhouse of a meal. 

Although Pittsburgh eating aficionados mourn the closing of Cure, Justin Severino’s culinary prowess (and his absurdly amazing charcuterie) lives on at his other restaurant, Morcilla. He works with Executive Chef Nate Hobart to offer a delectable array of Spanish-influenced snacks such as Spanish mackerel escabeche with espelette aioli, fennel and saffron, plus large-format dishes such as cider-braised chicken with calasparra rice and herbs.

The dining room — now with better sound-proofing — is terrific for group dining, and the bar area is perfect for casual snacks accompanied by some of the bars quaffable cocktails, ciders, gin tonics and selections from its deep sherry list.

Executive Chef Nate Hobart
​​LAWRENCEVILLE: 3519 Butler St.
412/652-9924
morcillapittsburgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Re-Open Date Set for Morcilla in Lawrenceville

BEST NEW RESTAURANT – POULET BLEU

Cuisine: French
It’s Best Because: Dining at Poulet Bleu is a transportive experience. 

Poulet Bleu is the Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group’s first foray from its Downtown core of bar/restaurants, and it’s a grand success, earning this year’s award for Best New Restaurant.

DeShantz’s tempting French bistro menu tilts to the classics with dishes such as seared foie gras with tart cherries and apple compote, trout almondine and boeuf bourguignon. And don’t get me started about the French onion soup; its rich broth is resonant with deeply caramelized onions, veal stock and Cognac, and the crust of melted Comte and Emmental cheeses is a savory blanket.

Pastry Chef James D. Wrobleski III’s winning dessert menu features stunners such as chocolate souffle and pavlova. Wine maestro John Wabeck curated the French-heavy wine list, and classic cocktails shine on the bar menu. DeShantz went classic with his design choices, too. Soft blue and white are the dominant tones; accented with brass and pewter, they speak to an era of refined dining. The Polynesian-influenced upstairs bar is a swell getaway, too.

Executive Chef Richard DeShantz
LAWRENCEVILLE: 3519 Butler St.
412/325-3435
pouletbleupgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Poulet Bleu

SALEM’S MARKET & GRILL

Cuisine: Middle Eastern
It’s Best Because: It’s budget-friendly, delicious and welcoming. 

I love the lunchtime hubbub at Salem’s Market & Grill. Come prepared for bare-bones ambience and amenities that are balanced by warm hospitality and fantastic food. The diversity of its clientele is a reflection of the population of the city — it’s the Pittsburgh restaurant where you’ll most likely be surrounded by people who come from a different background than you do.

Pittsburghers of all stripes line up for generous hot-bar portions of goat curry, tandoori chicken and daily specials such as grilled fish, or order items such as shish tawook, chicken shawarma and kufta kebab from the grill menu.

General Manager/Owner Abdullah Salem
STRIP DISTRICT: 2923 Penn Ave.
412/235-7828
salemsmarketgrill.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Salem’s Market & Grill in the Strip District

SENTI

Cuisine: Italian
It’s Best Because: Franco Braccia and his staff bring upscale Italian to Lawrenceville. 

Senti’s low-key exterior makes it easy to miss, which is a shame because once you’re inside, it’s a real treat. Pittsburgh is lucky to have owner Franco Braccia running front-of-house service; his ability to read and react to what a table needs is extraordinary.

Chef Antonio Garcia’s Italian classics such as ossobuco di Maiale (pork shank braised in white wine, served with creamy polenta and gremolata) are stunners and, this year, Chef Jon Sterrett introduced a culinary counterpoint; his “Nuovo” menu features progressive Italian dishes such as gnocchi with braised lamb ragù and a mint kombucha palette cleanser and baby carrots with chili oil, caramelized ricotta, pomegranate seeds, parsley and carrot-ginger foam.

Chefs Antonio Garcia and Jon Sterrett
​LAWRENCEVILLE: 3473 Butler St.
412/586-4347
sentirestaurant.com

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SMOKE BARBEQUE TAQUERIA

Cuisine: Barbeque
It’s Best Because: Barbecue comes nestled in house-made tortillas and that sparks all the joy. 

There are few categories of food I enjoy as much as smoked meats, and Smoke, which owners Jeff Petruso and Nelda Carranco moved from its original Homestead location to Lawrenceville in 2014, hits squarely in my happy place.

Petruso’s Oyler Pit smoker perfumes the neighborhood as brisket, pork shoulder, ribs and other cuts of meat slow-cook to perfection. Eat them with accoutrements inside house-made flour tortillas or enjoy them on their own. And jump on daily specials such as Cubano quesadilla, pastrami tacos, and, when they have them, hamburgers.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Jeff Petruso
LAWRENCEVILLE: 4115 Butler St.
412/224-2070
smokepgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Flavorful Tacos are Main Attraction at Lawrenceville’s SMOKE

SPOON

Cuisine: American
It’s Best Because: It has anchored East Liberty dining since 2010. 

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Brian Pekarcik’s attuned-to-the-seasons menu is rooted in modern American cuisine, with a nod to Pittsburgh in dishes such as beet pierogi with house-made sausage and pickled fennel slaw. Look for elegant main courses such as duck breast with lemon-herb crust, chestnut spaetzle, pickled pear and juniper-port reduction. Spoon’s cocktail list long has been one of the strongest in Pittsburgh.

Service at Spoon is formal enough to make it a smart choice for an important celebration yet not so fussy as to stop you from popping in for a fun weekday dinner.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Brian Pekarcik
EAST LIBERTY: 134 S. Highland Ave.
412/362-6001
spoonpgh.com

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SPORK

Cuisine: American
It’s Best Because: The garden-to-table meets modern American menu always feels right for the season. 

Executive Chef Christian Frangiadis sat at the pinnacle of Pittsburgh dining in the late 1990s. After more than a decade in the Caribbean — and a few years finding his footing at Spork — he’s climbed back to the top of the peak.

The restaurant’s backyard garden provides stunningly fresh produce during the growing season, and its preservation program provides accents for dishes throughout the winter. Elegant touches such as tableside preparation of pressed dry-aged duck are complemented by a fun vibe, attentive service and an outstanding cocktail program.

Executive Chef Christian Frangiadis
BLOOMFIELD: 5430 Penn Ave.
412/441-1700
sporkpittsburgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: An Impressive Duck Lands at Spork in Bloomfield

SUPERIOR MOTORS

Cuisine: New American
It’s Best Because: It’s innovative and also fun. 

Pittsburgh Magazine’s Best New Restaurant of 2018 keeps rolling strong, with Executive Chef/Co-Owner Kevin Sousa deepening his exploration of what new American cookery means. Dishes such as mackerel with shoyu, leek, mushroom and dill are rooted in our region while at the same time draw from global influences. Pair those dishes with a selection or two from Superior Motors’ superlative beverage program.

Sousa’s introduction of a series of collaborative dinners with like-minded chefs and reasonably priced weekday tasting menus gives diners even more of a reason to visit the Braddock restaurant.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Kevin Sousa
BRADDOCK: 1211 Braddock Ave.
412/271-1022
superiormotors15104.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Best New Restaurant of 2018: Superior Motors

TAIWANESE BISTRO CAFE 33

Cuisine: Taiwanese
It’s Best Because: You get real-deal Taiwanese cuisine paired with excellent service. 

In what used to be a laundromat is now the best Taiwanese restaurant menu in Pittsburgh. Executive Chef/Co-Owner Asan Tao’s menu is full of tasty hits such as three-cup chicken, scallion pancake with egg or beef (I prefer the egg), pan-fried noodles and beef stew noodle soup. Look into the deeper cuts, too — dishes such as turnip cake, tripe with vegetables and jellyfish with celery salad are also worth your attention.

Co-Owner Jenny Tao makes the bubble tea — testing each batch from a tiny cup — and oversees the front-of-house staff; if you’re unfamiliar with Taiwanese cuisine, be sure to lean on them as your guide.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Asan Tao
SQUIRREL HILL: 1711 Shady Ave.
412/421-2717
twcafe33.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Taiwanese Bistro Cafe 33

THE TWISTED FRENCHMAN

Cuisine: Modern French
It’s Best Because: You can experience fine dining with a touch of modernism. 

In the beautifully outfitted kitchen of what used to be an auction house, Twisted Frenchman Executive Chef/Partner Andrew Garbarino crafts multi-course tasting menus built with high-quality ingredients and a fusion of modern and classic techniques.

General Manager Yannick Thomas oversaw front-of-house operations at a pair of two-Michelin-star restaurants in France prior to moving to Pittsburgh — his approach to service is extraordinary.

Executive Chef/Partner Andrew Garbarino
EAST LIBERTY: 2595 Baum Blvd.
412/665-2880
thetwistedfrenchman.com

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What we’ve said in the past: The Twisted Frenchman Gets an Actual Frenchman

UMAMI

Cuisine: Japanese
It’s Best Because: It’s the spot for late night fun with good eats. 

Pittsburgh’s late-night options are scant. At Umami, the culinary party lasts deeper into the night than most establishments, and what they’re serving satisfies a craving better than just about anything else.

Hungry revelers can indulge in Umami’s tasty bites from the robatayaki and sushi menus, as well as succulent diversions such as pork gyoza and yaki udon until midnight on weeknights and 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights. The sake list is good, and there often is a D.J. keeping the vibes just right. Look for an omakase-only sushi counter from owners Roger Li and Derek Brunell later this year.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner Roger Li
LAWRENCEVILLE: 202 38th St.
412/224-2354
umamipgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Umami in Lawrenceville

UNION STANDARD

Cuisine: American
It’s Best Because: Derek Stevens and company know how to make Downtown a dining destination. 

The second-floor kitchen at Union Standard is dominated by a J & R Manufacturing wood-fired grill and rotisserie. From it, Executive Chef/Owner Derek Stevens offers smoky delights such as wood-grilled strip steak, tasty rotisserie chicken and roasted whole branzino.

That enough is worth a visit, but don’t overlook the restaurant’s vegetarian and vegetable-forward options, which shine just as brightly as the meat dishes. Dig into a cauliflower schnitzel, braised collard greens and whatever seasonal soup is offered; Stevens and company pay attention to the agricultural clock as well as any restaurant in Pittsburgh.

Executive Chef/Owner Derek Stevens
DOWNTOWN: 524 William Penn Place
412/281-0738
unionstandardpgh.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Restaurant Review: Union Standard

VIVO KITCHEN

Cuisine: Mediterranean
It’s Best Because: It’s a suburban restaurant worth driving to from the city. 

Vivo Executive Chef/Co-Owner Sam DiBattista has the old-school, new-school hybrid energy that many of us aim to age into. He’s been at it longer than nearly any other chef on this list, yet his menu and his swagger translates as contemporary. What this means are dishes such as stinging nettle risotto with roasted fiddlehead ferns and ramps.

DiBattista also offers my favorite chicken deal in the region — his crispy whole chicken with garlic is a must get at $19.

Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Sabatino “Sam” DiBattista
SEWICKLEY: 432 Beaver St.
412/259-8945
vivokitchen.com

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What we’ve said in the past: Tearing into a Whole Chicken at Vivo

How We Made Our Choices

Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2019 Best Restaurants list is shorter than it has been in previous years; 30 establishments are honored. The relative brevity of the list is the result of the continued growth and improvement of Pittsburgh’s restaurant landscape. While it might seem counterintuitive to have a shorter list, we feel it’s a reflection that the standard for inclusion is higher than ever before.

“Does this restaurant fulfill its intention in an exceptional fashion?” is, of course, a subjective question, but I think it gets to the core of what separates a best restaurant from very good restaurants.

Spork, for example, makes the list for the first time because the culinary and management team of the three-year-old restaurant has honed-in on its menu and cocktail programs, as well as incorporated an impressive garden-to-table ecosystem. It’s also why Chengdu Gourmet remains on the list and remains one of my favorite restaurants in Pittsburgh. Although the restaurant is light on atmosphere, executive chef/owner Wei Zhu’s commitment to bettering his craft, including a trip to China for advanced culinary classes this year, keeps the restaurant leaning forward, making it part of a larger conversation about Sichuan cuisine in the United States.

We continue, as we have for the last several years, to recognize the importance of broadening the definition of what makes a best restaurant; for us, a multicultural establishment that serves scrumptious food on disposable plates (Salem’s Market & Grill) stands every bit as worthy as the fine dining restaurants included on the list.

One thing that I’m thinking about this year more than ever before is how ownership treats its employees. There aren’t any restaurants that qualified for this list solely on the virtue of virtuousness, but I do think that a new addition this year, Driftwood Oven, as well as other longstanding establishments, deserve a nod of support for ensuring that their employees are looked after (Driftwood Oven’s owners are part of the Legume family tree).

We also made a rare exception to our policy that a restaurant must have opened by the final day of the previous calendar year to be included on the list. Dish Osteria & Bar reopened in April following a two-year hiatus; aside from some welcome soundproofing added to the dining room it was as if time had stood still. The beloved establishment, which first opened in 2000, is every bit as magical as it ever was and thus it appears on this list.

Finally, this year marks a new way of doing things around here: for the past 24 years, our list was selected by a committee. A pared down version of that committee remains and their advice is invaluable, but this list is fully the determination of the editorial staff of Pittsburgh Magazine.

Happy dining, Pittsburgh.

For a more recent Best Restaurants List, head to our 2019 List here. 

Pittsburgh’s dining options are expanding, and so is Pittsburgh Magazine’s annual Best Restaurants list. This year, our independent Restaurant Review Panel recommends 37 restaurants for inclusion and, as the magazine’s dining critic, I’ve added three more, for a neat total of 40.

Some notable longstanding Pittsburgh restaurants such as Hyeholde are resurgent, and outstanding newcomers such as Union Standard and Bitter Ends Garden & Luncheonette add their fresh perspectives to a slowly maturing culinary landscape.

On top of that, we are continuing to broaden our discussion of the definition of what makes a restaurant “best” to extend beyond the classic interpretation of fine dining. We love a fancy, formal night out at a restaurant with snappy service and pressed white tablecloths such as the one you’ll find at Lautrec (in fact, we’d like to see more of those in Pittsburgh), yet we recognize that well-executed informal restaurants such as Gaucho Parrilla Argentina and Apteka are fulfilling their mission at a high level, too.

International restaurants, once relegated as offshoot “ethnic” food back-pats, are meaningful, too, particularly those that speak with a distinctive voice. To that end, the longstanding Indian vegan restaurant Udipi Cafe gets a nod after more than two decades of operation, and we continue to celebrate the growth of Squirrel Hill’s regional Chinese specialties with the inclusion of Taiwanese Bistro Cafe 33.

What does this mean for you? Options. For the second year running, the Best Restaurants list is broken into categories so that you can find the best of what you’re looking for to suit your mood.
— Hal B. Klein

(Editor’s Note: Restaurants must have opened by December 31, 2017 to qualify for inclusion on the list.)

All Arounders

These restaurants have it all: talented chefs, top-notch service and a focus on ambience. They are perfect for a celebration yet approachable enough for a nice weeknight meal, and they often are our favorite go-to destinations.

Cure

LAWRENCEVILLE: 5336 Butler St.
412/252-2595, curepittsburgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Justin Severino​
[Mediterranean]  Executive Chef/Co-Owner Justin Severino, chef de cuisine Danielle Felix and the rest of the culinary team at Cure consistently craft some of Pittsburgh’s most exciting dishes. Coddled eggs with sherry chantilly and smoked maple, for example, is elegant comfort in a calcium shell, and roasted trout with braised swiss chard, calabrian chili, crispy fried white runner beans and burnt lemon hits the mark as an elevated yet unfussy main course. Pasta dishes, available by the half- and whole-order, work as a side dish, a main course and even, paired with a glass of wine or one of Cure’s perfectly balanced cocktails, an indulgent snack.

Bar Marco

STRIP DISTRICT: 2216 Penn Ave.  
412/471-1900, barmarcopgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Justin Steel
[Mediterranean]  Whether you’re on an important third date or simply out for a casual night with pals, it always is a treat to visit Bar Marco. Now in its sixth year of operation, the restaurant has matured into a neighborhood gathering spot that’s a draw for everyone, even if you don’t live in the Strip District. Executive Chef/Co-Owner Justin Steel’s handmade pasta dishes such as bucatini carbonara and gemelli with ramp and arugula pesto and peas are pure comfort, and his seasonal dishes such as fried smelts, carrot gnocchi and fennel salad with citrus transport diners to the Mediterranean while remaining rooted in contemporary Pittsburgh dining. Sommelier Dominic Fiore applies his extensive viniculture knowledge and creative purchasing to craft a dynamic, curated list of natural wines.

Morcilla

​​LAWRENCEVILLE: 3519 Butler St.
412/652-9924, morcillapittsburgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Justin Severino​
[Spanish]  Nothing like a flood to shake things up. Executive Chef/Co-Owner Justin Severino turned a bad situation into an opportunity after a burst pipe in the apartment upstairs caused catastrophic damage to his Lawrenceville restaurant. Severino’s new menu features an increase in large-format plates, with dishes such as lamb tagine and cider-braised chicken with calasparra rice joining Morcilla’s whole-roasted suckling pig as must-gets, as well as new shareable items including artichoke and idiazabal gratin. Severino also focused on a nagging noise problem with the new construction — with increased soundproofing through the dining room, Morcilla now is cozy and quiet.

Legume

OAKLAND: 214 N. Craig St.
412/621-2700, legumebistro.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Trevett Hooper
[American]  Trevett Hooper’s Legume restaurant won early acclaim with progressive eaters when he opened the first iteration of the producer-to-table eatery in 2007, and he reached a wider audience moving to Oakland in 2011. This year, Legume’s reputation for responsive seasonal cuisine and genuine connection to local food systems hit the national spotlight, earning a James Beard award semifinalist nod for Best Restaurant (Hooper also was a 2013 Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic semifinalist). The restaurant’s cozy attached bar, Butterjoint, serves the Legume menu as well as snacks, including one of the best hamburgers in Pittsburgh. Hooper’s new project, Pie For Breakfast, will open later this year.

All Arounders (cont.)

These restaurants have it all: talented chefs, top-notch service and a focus on ambience. They are perfect for a celebration yet approachable enough for a nice weeknight meal, and they often are our favorite go-to destinations.

Casbah​

SHADYSIDE: 229 S. Highland Ave.
412/661-5656, casbahpgh.com
Executive Chef
Dustin Gardner
[Mediterranean]  Now into its second decade, Casbah remains one of Pittsburgh’s most important restaurants. Executive Chef Dustin Gardner caters to longtime regulars as well as new visitors with a menu that seamlessly intertwines classic Casbah favorites such as cavatelli with fennel sausage and double-cut pork chops with butternut squash risotto with newer dishes such as sheep’s-milk gnudi, bay scallops, preserved lemon, pomegranate, cauliflower puree and bread crumbs. Front-of-house service is professional, the wine list is deep and the cocktail program is, quietly, one of the best executed in Pittsburgh.

Spoon

EAST LIBERTY: 134 S. Highland Ave.
412/362-6001, spoonpgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Brian Pekarcik
[American]  Executive Chef/Co-Owner Brian Pekarcik returned to Spoon’s kitchen in February following the departure of Jamilka Borges (see “Chef of the Year,” p. 68). Pekarcik’s first full-time foray at the restaurant since 2014 means a refocused menu of contemporary American dishes such as goat-cheese souffle with frisee, grapefruit, lardons and pickled prawns and day-boat scallops with salsify purée, twice-cooked pork belly, blood orange reduction and broccolini. Service at Spoon consistently is among the best in town, crisp and professional without being overbearing.

Eleven Contemporary Kitchen

STRIP DISTRICT: 1150 Smallman St.
412/201-5656, elevenck.com
Executive Chef
Eli Wahl
[American]  Eleven Contemporary Kitchen is one of Pittsburgh’s most revered establishments. The high-end flagship of the big Burrito Restaurant Group’s mix of elegant cuisine, full spectrum beverage program and attentive service makes it a destination for special occasions, and Eleven’s tavern menu also makes it one of the city’s preeminent happy hour destinations. Executive Chef Eli Wahl’s seasonal tasting menus are noteworthy, and main courses such as Elysian Fields lamb loin with smoked lamb belly, celery root purée, roasted beets, Brussels sprouts, Anson Mills oats and whole-grain mustard jus are crowd pleasers.

Whitfield

EAST LIBERTY: 120 S. Whitfield St.
412/626-3090, whitfieldpgh.com
Executive Chef
Bethany Zozula
[American]  The restaurant at Ace Hotel in East Liberty is run by two James Beard Foundation nominated chefs. Executive Chef Bethany Zozula is a 2018 semifinalist for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic and Pastry Chef Casey Renee is, two years running, a semifinalist for Outstanding Pastry Chef. Visit Whitfield for, well, just about anything you’re craving. Breakfast and lunch menus offer satisfying, comforting selections such as Toad-in-a-Hole, mushroom gravy and biscuits and duck leg confit with escarole and hashbrowns. The restaurant’s dinner menu highlights Whitfield’s ambitious whole-animal butchery program. Here, diners can find selections such as Jamison Farm lamb, rabbit “porchetta” and Jubilee Hilltop Ranch steaks. There always are terrific vegetarian options, too, including a daily, multi-course tasting menu.

Union Standard

DOWNTOWN: 524 William Penn Place
412/281-0738, unionstandardpgh.com
Executive Chef/Owner
Derek Stevens
[American]  Derek Stevens made his mark in Pittsburgh as the longstanding executive chef of Eleven, running the Strip District kitchen for more than a decade. In 2017, after more than 25 years of working for other people, he decided to strike out solo and open Union Standard Downtown. Stevens’ menu marries the cuisines of the Mid-Atlantic, Appalachia and the Northeast with impeccably sourced dishes such as Jamison Farm lamb with Anson Mills polenta, blistered green beans, blood orange and pistachio and Laurel Hill trout with fingerling potato, smoked jalapeno and chow chow. Union Standard is a top choice for brunch and lunch Downtown, and the raw bar and cocktail program make it a terrific after-work and happy hour destination.

Killer Casual

A solid combination of excellent food and casual-yet-attentive service draws diners to these restaurants. These are the types of places where you quickly can become a regular.

Chengdu Gourmet

SQUIRREL HILL: 5840 Forward Ave.
412/521-2088, chengdugourmet.net
Executive Chef/Owner
Wei Zhu
[Sichuan Chinese]  For the second year running, Wei Zhu, Executive Chef/Owner of Chengdu Gourmet, was honored with a nomination for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic by the James Beard Foundation. Zhu’s Sichuan cuisine is lauded as some of the best in the United States, which is all the more reason you should stick to dishes from that region, rather than the Americanized offerings, when ordering a meal at Chengdu Gourmet. Get dishes such as Chongqing beef hot pot (a spicy stew swimming with beef, vegetables, tofu, noodles and mushrooms), emerald fish, shredded potatoes with vinegar and napa with ginkgo and tofu, a cooling dish that will balance the fiery ma-la spice that’s a signature of Sichuan cuisine. Inexpensive lager beer and high-acid wines are the best pairings to bring to the BYOB establishment.

Stagioni

SOUTH SIDE: 2104 E. Carson St.
412/586-4738, stagionipgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Stephen Felder
​[Italian]  Stagioni is either a beloved part of your regular restaurant rotation or one of Pittsburgh’s best kept secrets. Executive Chef/Co-Owner Stephen Felder’s menu of seasonal Italian classics such as grilled whole branzino with fennel, orange and pistachio, tomato-braised meatballs with escarole, cannellini beans and Calabrian chili and ricotta gnocchi with sausage-rapini ragout are reason enough to visit several times per year. Make sure to make reservations for Felder’s monthly Sunday Supper dinners — the family-style feasts are a scrumptious conversation starter.

Vivo Kitchen

SEWICKLEY: 432 Beaver St.
412/259-8945, vivokitchen.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Sabatino “Sam” DiBattista
[Mediterranean]  Vivo is a rare restaurant that primarily is a neighborhood favorite, yet, also is worthy as a destination dinner. The family-run business — Sam DiBattista is the restaurant’s executive chef and his wife, Lori, runs front-of-house operations — radiates warmth from greeting to goodbye. Roasted chicken is de rigueur this year in Pittsburgh, but cooking a whole, crispy bird is something DiBattista perfected years ago. He also is a prince of pescatarian cookery, using straightforward techniques such as grilling and roasting to bring the best out of the ocean’s bounty.

Dinette

SHADYSIDE: 5996 Centre Ave.
412/362-0202, dinette-pgh.com
Chef/Owner
Sonja J Finn
[Mediterranean]  This year, Sonja J Finn celebrates a decade of ownership at Dinette, one of the establishments that prompted Pittsburgh’s modern restaurant resurgence. Dinette is one of the rare pizza establishments where we recommend bypassing traditional builds and instead looking to the seasonal, thoughtful combinations such as Empire apples with bacon, red onion, sage, Gorgonzola piccante and fresh mozzarella. We love the non-pizza dishes just as much — and often more than — the pizza. Finn’s attention to the seasons and straightforward yet thoughtful combinations always hit the spot.

The Vandal

LAWRENCEVILLE: 4306 Butler St.
412/251-0465, thevandalpgh.com
Executive Chef Csilla Thackray
[American]  It’s marvelous witnessing a restaurant metamorphosize into a new stage of maturity. The Vandal remains as hip as when it was included on Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2016 Best Restaurants list — and the chicken sandwich and hamburger still are draws. Even better — the addition of a refined dinner menu, table service and an upgraded design makes the restaurant now as much an evening destination as it is a lunch and brunch spot. Look to dishes such as green borscht with potato, dill and cured egg and stuffed quail with paprikash, spaetzle and cucumber, where Executive Chef Csilla Thackray draws from her Hungarian heritage.

Killer Casual (cont.)

A solid combination of excellent food and casual-yet-attentive service draws diners to these restaurants. These are the types of places where you quickly can become a regular.

DiAnoia’s Eatery

STRIP DISTRICT: 2549 Penn Ave.
412/918-1875, dianoiaseatery.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Dave Anoia
[Italian] DiAnoia’s Eatery appeals to our cravings morning, noon and night. Stop by in the morning for a breakfast sandwich reminiscent of New York City bodegas and an espresso. Visit in the afternoon for a deli sandwich, salad and glass of house wine. In the evening, put it all together with a multicourse meal of antipasti, homemade pasta and delectable mains such as roasted whole branzino and porchetta with its drippings. Breads and desserts are prepared in-house by the restaurant’s top-tier pasty team. Thirsty? DiAnoia’s cocktail menu mirrors the food menu, with well-balanced, perfectly prepared drinks that get stronger as the day gets longer.

The Cafe Carnegie

Critic’s Selection
OAKLAND: 4400 Forbes Ave.
412/622-3225, thecafecarnegie.com
Consulting Chef
Sonja J Finn
[American] Cafe Carnegie is one of my favorite lunch destinations in Pittsburgh. The upscale yet casual restaurant is nestled in the lobby of The Carnegie Museums of Art and Natural History, which means a quick cultural escape is footsteps away. One of the things I love best about Consulting Chef Sonja J Finn’s menu is that a meal will leave you feeling stronger and more energetic than when you came in. Go for peppy, satisfying salads such as the Zuni Cafe-influenced pulled chicken salad or salad chevre chaud, or a heartier dish such as Jamison Farm lamb pot pie.

Taiwanese Bistro Cafe 33

SQUIRREL HILL: 1711 Shady Ave.
412/421-2717, twcafe33.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Asan Tao
[Taiwanese]  Regionally specific Chinese cuisine is on the rise in Pittsburgh, and there perhaps is no better demonstration of this trend than Taiwanese Bistro Cafe 33. Executive Chef/Co-Owner Asan Tao forgoes generic “Chinese food” in favor of a menu of Taiwanese specialties such as cold jellyfish, three-cup chicken and pork with mustard greens soup. Certain dishes, such as pork-blood “tofu” with garlic-chive soup, intestines in garlic sauce and book-tripe with vegetables, might be unfamiliar to Western palettes but absolutely are worth ordering. Co-Owner Jenny Tao oversees a genial front-of-house staff who are eager to guide guests to assemble a perfect meal.

Superior Motors

BRADDOCK: 1211 Braddock Ave.
412/271-1022, superiormotors15104.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Kevin Sousa
[New American] Executive Chef/Co-Owner Kevin Sousa serves New American cuisine influenced by modernist technique at his Braddock establishment, which the independent Restaurant Review Panel selected as this year’s Best New Restaurant. Sousa’s artfully composed dishes such as carrot or tuna tartare with nori, kimchi, miso and katsuobushi and sturgeon with spaetzle, cauliflower, cabbage and mustard are a draw to the restaurant, as is Superior Motors’ forward-thinking cocktail program.

Umami

LAWRENCEVILLE: 202 38th St.
412/224-2354, umamipgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Roger Li
[Japanese]  Pittsburgh is a city starving for late-night dining options. One of the reasons we love Umami, a third-floor izakaya from Roger Li (Ki Ramen, Ki Pollo) and Derek Brunell (Round Corner Cantina) is that the establishment serves crushable Japanese pub food such as chawanmushi, karaage and okonomiyaki until midnight during the week and 2 a.m. on weekends. Li and his team also serve some of the best sushi in Pittsburgh — pay particular attention to the daily specials. We’re smitten with items such as whole fish, King Trumpet mushroom and bacon-quail eggs cooked on the charcoal-fired robata grill. The izakaya’s intricate design and DJ-curated playlists are transportive.

Fancy Night Out

These are the places for which you should dress up when you visit — special-occasion restaurants that entice diners with high-level decor and service in addition to cuisine. 

Lautrec

NEMACOLIN WOODLANDS RESORT, FARMINGTON, FAYETTE COUNTY: 
1001 Lafayette Drive
724/329-8555, nemacolin.com/dining/fine-dining/lautrec
Executive Chef
Kristin A. Butterworth
[Fine Dining]  This year, Lautrec Executive Chef Kristin A. Butterworth earned a well-deserved, and long-overdue, semifinalist nod for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic from the James Beard Foundation. Butterworth’s cuisine marries classical technique and contemporary culinary philosophy with impeccable sourcing as she crafts dishes such as escargot with aerated potato, wheat berry, shiitakes, bone marrow crumb and garlic-herb butter for the restaurant’s tasting menus. Combine those plates with pampered service and it’s clear why Lautrec is one of just a handful of Forbes Five-Star, AAA Five-Diamond restaurants in the world.

Cocothé

SEWICKLEY: 545 Beaver St.
412/259-8847, cocothe.com
Executive Chef
Dave DeVoss
[New American]  There perhaps is no restaurant in Pittsburgh which is as darling an upscale hidden gem as Cocothé in Sewickley, where Executive Chef Dave DeVoss crafts forward-thinking dishes inspired by Continental dining tradition. His seasonal menus include appetizers such as beef tartare with port wine poached pear, radicchio salad and cranberry and hazelnut crackers as well as entrees such as roasted salmon with apple and lemon smashed potatoes, beurre blanc sauce and shaved apple and fennel salad. You’re lucky if you live nearby, and it’s worth the drive if you don’t.

The Twisted Frenchman

EAST LIBERTY: 2595 Baum Blvd.
412/665-2880, thetwistedfrenchman.com
Executive Chef/Partner
Andrew Garbarino
[Modern French]  In 2017, Executive Chef/Partner Andrew Garbarino moved The Twisted Frenchman restaurant down the block into a multimillion-dollar remodel of an old auction house. On the second floor of the building is the new iteration of his modern French restaurant, which sits above the more casual Bar Frenchman. He and his kitchen team prepare 3-, 8- and 14-course tasting menus, as well as a 21-course chef’s table experience. Garbarino focuses on high-quality ingredients and uses both classic French and modernist techniques in his preparations. Service is top-notch, as is the wine list.

Senti

​LAWRENCEVILLE: 3473 Butler St.
412/586-4347, sentirestaurant.com
Owner
Franco Braccia
[Italian]  Senti is the perfect destination for diners who desire a bit of pampering while indulging in a classy evening of refined northern Italian cuisine. Owner Franco Braccia applies his decades of experience in the restaurant industry at Senti by running an attentive front-of-house, reading tables and quickly reacting to ensure the best experience for guests. Senti offers delectable classic Italian dishes such as Brodetto di Pesce con Pasta (spaghetti with an array of seafood in white wine tomato sauce), squash ravioli with beef broth, radicchio, gremolata and raisin coulis and grilled branzino with lemon, arugula and cauliflower. Lunch service is more casual but just as polished as dinner. The wine list is splendid.

Fancy Night Out (cont.)

These are the places for which you should dress up when you visit — special-occasion restaurants that entice diners with high-level decor and service in addition to cuisine. 

umi Japanese Restaurant

SHADYSIDE: 5849 Ellsworth Ave.
412/362-6198, bigburrito.com/umi
Executive Chef
Mr. Shu
[Japanese]  Umi is a trailblazing Pittsburgh restaurant. The nearly 20-year-old establishment became a sushi destination long before there were any options of its caliber in Pittsburgh, and it remains on top of the seasoned rice pile. Executive Chef Mr. Shu’s handiwork is beloved by everyone from Pittsburgh’s professional athletes, visiting film stars and an array of regulars. We recommend the 7- or 11-course omakase offerings, though we also enjoy menu items such as black cod with miso. Make a reservation, particularly if you’re interested in enjoying Mr. Shu’s omakase at the sushi bar.

or, The Whale

DOWNTOWN: 463 Boulevard of the Allies
412/632-0002, orthewhalepgh.com
Chef/Owner
Dennis Marron
[American]  Sustainability, seafood and steaks are the buzzwords at or, The Whale, the restaurant at the Distrikt Hotel Downtown. Chef/Owner Dennis Marron and his team are meticulous in their sourcing, working with suppliers such as Jubilee Hilltop Ranch to craft a menu from ethically raised and very delicious ingredients. You won’t feel landlocked with seafood dishes such as dayboat scallops with butternut squash caponata, sunflower shoots, black radish and fingerling potato chips, and selections from the dry-aged steak program, grilled over hardwood fire, are unbeatable.

fl. 2

DOWNTOWN: 510 Market St., second floor
412/773-8848, fl2pgh.com
Executive Chef
Julio Peraza
[American]  Architect Lázaro Rosa-Violán’s stunning redesign transformed the restaurant space at the Fairmont Pittsburgh into Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2018 Delicious Design winner. Executive Chef Julio Peraza’s dinner menu includes shareable main courses such as a whole rotisserie chicken served with an herb salad and braised lamb shank with white-bean stew and double-smoked bacon, as well as delicate dishes such as scallop crudo and cured kampachi. We also love fl.2 for an elegant yet casual lunch or brunch; it’s a perfect spot for a business meeting or quick catch up with a friend.

Best Budget

The focus of these establishments is tasty food at an approachable price-point. Atmosphere and/or service often are secondary considerations — the low-fuss attitude of these restaurants is a draw for some diners.

Gaucho Parrilla Argentina

STRIP DISTRICT: 1601 Penn Ave.
412/709-6622, eat-gaucho.com
Chef/Owner
Anthony Falcon
[Argentine]  There regularly are lines around the block at Gaucho Parrilla Argentina, and for good reason. Chef/Owner Anthony Falcon, Executive Chef Matt Neal and their team are serving some of the tastiest steaks in town, and they’re doing it at an affordable price. Flank, ribeye, New York strip and other cuts of beef are cooked over open hardwood fire to smokey perfection; top them with one — or more — of the house-made sauces. Gaucho’s menu also includes excellent pork, fish and chicken options, as well as seasonal vegetarian options. Look for the Asado Truck, the restaurant’s mobile option, around town.

Apteka

BLOOMFIELD: 4606 Penn Ave.
aptekapgh.com
Chefs/Owners
Kate Lasky & Tomasz Skowronski
[Central/Eastern European]  Apteka is so cool. Chefs/Owners Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski dig into their central and eastern European heritage with an all-vegan menu that includes popular dishes such as pierogi and borscht, but also lesser-known, equally tasty items such as zupa grzybowa (mushroom and smoked chili soup with cabbage and herbs) and boczniaki z kapusta (oyster mushroom and braised cabbage in beer broth with butternut miso and rye crumb). The duo this year introduced a late-night special — a vegan burger that, and we don’t say this lightly, is a deeply satisfying alternative hamburger treat.

Bitter Ends Garden & Luncheonette

Critics Selection
BLOOMFIELD: 4613 Liberty Ave.
412/450-0229, tillthebitterends.com
Chef/Co-Owner
Becca Hegarty
[American]  Combine the best aspects of the farm-to-table movement with an old-school neighborhood lunch counter, and you have Bitter Ends Garden & Luncheonette. The restaurant, which seats 17, might be pocket-sized, yet Chef/Co-Owner Becca Hegarty makes magic with what she serves on her curated, vegetable-forward menu that also features house-baked breads and pastries. Hegarty and her partners pay fastidious attention to quality of ingredient, farming some of what’s cooked and teaming up with other regional producers for the rest. Saddle up to the counter for a killer sausage and egg breakfast sandwich, a vegetable hoagie or a bowl of soup. Or, all of them … and a doughnut.

B52 Cafe

LAWRENCEVILLE: 5202 Butler St.
412/781-5204, b52pgh.com
Chef/Owner
Omar Abuhejleh
[Middle Eastern] Omar Abuhejleh’s Upper Lawrenceville establishment is a restaurant with flavorful, Levantine-influenced vegan cuisine that also serves as a soulful community cafe. Start your day with a specialty coffee or a bracing shot of espresso while enjoying avocado or almond butter toast on house-baked bread; the buckwheat sourdough pancakes are another excellent option. For a healthy and satisfying lunch, begin your meal with a selection of mezze such as best-in-town baba ganouj and labneh made from fermented cashews, crush a za’atar flatbread and dig into a falafel salad.

Best Budget (cont.)

The focus of these establishments is tasty food at an approachable price-point. Atmosphere and/or service often are secondary considerations — the low-fuss attitude of these restaurants is a draw for some diners.

SMOKE Barbeque Taqueria

LAWRENCEVILLE: 4115 Butler St.
412/224-2070, smokepgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner
Jeff Petruso
[Barbeque]  Pittsburgh doesn’t have many terrific taco options, which is why we love this hybrid barbecue-taco shop. Executive Chef/Co-Owner Jeff Petruso does a fantastic job of mashing up Texas-style barbecue with Austin taco culture at SMOKE Barbeque Taqueria in Lawrenceville. He prepares tantalizing smoked meats such as brisket, ribs and pork shoulder that are served in house-made flour; freshly made corn tortillas also are available. Look for daily specials, too. Tuesdays mean hamburgers, which are scratch-made top to bottom and rank among the best in Pittsburgh.

Udipi Cafe

MONROEVILLE: 4141 Old William Penn Highway
412/373-5581
Owner
Manjunath Sherigar
[Indian]  2018 might mark Udipi Cafe’s first year on Pittsburgh Magazine’s Best Restaurants list, yet savvy diners have known since 1996 that Manjunath Sherigar’s restaurant is home to the region’s best vegan southern Indian cuisine. Look past the bare-bones decor and treat your taste buds to invigorating dishes such as avial (vegetables cooked in coconut sauce and spice) and kadhi bhindi curry (Okra with herbs and spices). The restaurant’s dosas — thin pancakes made from fermented rice and lentil flours, stuffed with ingredients such as spiced potato, onion and chutney — are a draw.

Noodlehead

SHADYSIDE: 242 S. Highland Ave.
noodleheadpgh.com
Owners
Watcharee Tongdee and Michael Johnson
[Thai]  Quick and casual is the name of the game at Noodlehead. All of the noodle recipes on the restaurant’s modest menu were created or inspired by Tongdee family matriarch Pusadee Tongdee. With a name like Noodlehead, it’s not much of a surprise that noodles are what you want to get at this cash-only, BYOB restaurant. Standout dishes include chiang mai curry (egg noodles, chicken, pickled mustard greens, crispy shallots, yellow curry coconut milk sauce) and kee mao (big flat rice noodles, bok choy, napa cabbage, spicy chili garlic sauce); the noodle soups are solid, too.

Salem’s Market & Grill

Critic’s Selection
STRIP DISTRICT: 2923 Penn Ave.
412/235-7828
General Manager/Owner
Abdullah Salem
[Middle Eastern]  Salem’s may very well be the most inclusive restaurant space in Pittsburgh. Although the establishment has a cafeteria atmosphere — think hot-line and disposable table settings — I believe the informality is part of the draw to Salem’s. The restaurant’s menu is 100 percent Halal, and the meat — better sourced than most Pittsburgh eateries — is part of a whole-animal butchery program that extends to the attached market. From-the-grill items such as seekh and kufta kabobs are savory delights, and dishes from the hot bar, particularly goat and lamb curries, spinach paneer and chickpeas, make for a deeply satisfying, and also affordable meal. Be sure to order naan — hot from the restaurant’s tandoor, it’s pure comfort food.

Classic Pittsburgh

Familiarity of service and go-to menu favorites make these long-standing restaurants important destinations for Pittsburghers.

Tessaro’s American Bar & Hardwood Grill

BLOOMFIELD: 4601 Liberty Ave.
412/682-6809, tessaros.com
Grill Master
Courtney McFarlane
[Burgers/American]  Pittsburghers have since 1981 flocked to the Bloomfield burger joint and bar for a taste of a true Steel City classic. Every day, Tessaro’s butcher Dominic Piccola grinds the restaurant’s custom blend of chuck, brisket, short rib, New York strip and other cuts. Then, grill master Courtney McFarlane cooks the ground beef over a hardwood fire, as he’s done nearly every day since 1992. As any regular would tell you, there are no French fries at Tessaro’s; instead order a favorite side such as boiled red-skin potatoes or broccoli (hey, your body will thank you). On Thursdays, there is a ribs special. We love the bar — and the longstanding bartenders — at Tessaro’s too.

Cafe Zinho

SHADYSIDE: 238 Spahr St.
412/363-1500
Executive Chef/Owner
Toni Pais
[Mediterranean]  Executive Chef/Owner of Cafe Zinho Toni Pais taps into his Portuguese roots with dishes such as mariscada, a garlic-and-cilantro-forward shellfish stew with a wine and tomato base and bulhao-pato style clams (cooked in white wine, olive oil and garlic). Other seafood standouts include branzino with olive oil and lemon slices and the not-to-be-missed daily specials. Dishes such as suckling pig shanks in papaya barbecue sauce will please meat-forward diners, and plates such as spinach ricotta ravioli with piquillo pepper coulis are certain to delight vegetable-forward ones. Be sure to grab an outdoor seat in the warmer months.

Penn Avenue Fish Company

STRIP DISTRICT: 2208 Penn Ave.
412/434-7200, pennavefishcompany.com
Owners
Henry B. Dewey and Angela Earley
[Seafood]  Penn Avenue Fish Company merges a vibrant fish market with a casual, BYOB eatery. Deep inside the space is a sushi counter, where chefs craft nigiri bites with fresh fish lofted atop seasoned rice served at body temperature. If sushi isn’t your thing, go for a decadent fish sandwich, such as English-style cod with breadcrumbs and tartar sauce or Sneaky Pete — grilled salmon on whole-grain ciabatta with fresh arugula, hearts of palm and spicy avocado crème sauce.

Classic Pittsburgh (cont.)

Familiarity of service and go-to menu favorites make these long-standing restaurants important destinations for Pittsburghers.

Piccolo Forno

LAWRENCEVILLE: 3801 Butler St.
412/622-0111, piccolo-forno.com
Chef/Owner
Domenic Branduzzi
[Italian]  In 2005, long before Lawrenceville became a booming hotspot, third-generation Pittsburgh restaurateur Domenic Branduzzi started serving pizza, pasta and more at Piccolo Forno. The focus here is on Tuscan cuisine. Branduzzi’s mother, Carla, still hand-makes all of the pasta for the restaurant, just like she did at her former restaurant in the Strip. Go for gnocchetti di Castagne (ricotta and chestnut flour gnocchi with braised beef short rib, fig and marsala ragu, ricotta salata and hazelnuts) and pappardelle con coniglio e funghi (braised rabbit with pappardelle pasta, roasted tomatoes and wild mushrooms).

Hyeholde

MOON TOWNSHIP: 1516 Coraopolis Heights Road
412/264-3116, hyeholde.com
Executive Chef
Brent Peyton
[American]  Diners looking for an elegant meal packed full of history that can’t be found anywhere else in the region should look to Hyeholde, where meals have been served in the faux-Tudor manor house for 80 years. Brent Peyton currently is the establishment’s executive chef and his menu leans toward classic dishes such as rosemary-cranberry crusted elk and braised beef short ribs but also includes lentil stew with Wagyu beef cheek and winter vegetable flan. Business casual attire is suggested, unless you’re enjoying a picnic basket on Hyeholde’s gorgeous grounds.

Alla Famiglia

ALLENTOWN: 804 E. Warrington Ave.
412/488-1440, allafamiglia.com
Executive Chef/Owner
Jonathan C. Vlasic
[Italian]  Alla Famiglia remains a favorite among members of the independent Restaurant Review Panel for its bountiful portions, crisp service and white-tablecloth dining that suggests a dressed-up evening. Jonathan C. Vlasic expanded his 13-year-old restaurant this year into the adjacent building, adding an upscale dining room and bar. The house specialty is a double-cut veal chop, and that’s exactly what you should get. It comes in a variety of permutations such as grilled Florentine style with lemon and rosemary jus and pizzaiola, a braised preparation with marinara, hot and sweet peppers, sausage, onions and fontina, caramelized on the outside and tender within.

We go out to eat for different reasons. 

Some diners are drawn to an exploration of cuisine and are more interested in what’s on the plate than the the atmosphere that surrounds them.

Other diners expect eating at a restaurant to be a special-occasion, white-tablecloth experience.

Often, we seek out the middle ground: casual, dependable and delicious places where we share great food with friends and family. 

This year, our independent Restaurant Review Panel recommends 34 establishments to be honored on Pittsburgh Magazine’s Best Restaurants list. These restaurants offer a diversity of dining choices that will guide Pittsburghers and visitors, no matter what they’re seeking.

This year’s list is wide-ranging. It includes a Sichuan restaurant tucked under a bowling alley in Squirrel Hill run by a James Beard Foundation Award semifinalist (Chengdu Gourmet) and a five-star, five-diamond establishment with white-glove service located 60 miles south of Pittsburgh (Lautrec). There’s a vegetable-forward, seasonal-obsessed restaurant in the heart of reinvigorated East Liberty (Dinette) and a classy, tasting-menu-only destination in suburban Sewickley (Cocothé).

Two of the newly opened spots selected for the list this year are regional-specific, vegan restaurants (Apteka and B52). We also welcome the return of a critic’s favorite (Bar Marco) as well as a long-standing restaurant finally getting its day on the podium (Salem’s Market & Grill). 

Read on for our picks of Pittsburgh’s best.
 

This year, as Pittsburgh Magazine’s dining critic, I’ve sorted the BEST RESTAURANTS list into five categories to help you find what you’re looking for, no matter your dining style or craving.  — Hal B. Klein

Morcilla

​LAWRENCEVILLE: 3519 Butler St.
412/652-9924, morcillapittsburgh.com
Executive Chef/co-Owner Justin Severino
[Spanish]  Morcilla landed heaps of accolades from Pittsburgh Magazine’s independent Restaurant Review Panel in 2016: Best New Restaurant, Outstanding in Their Field Chef (Justin Severino) and Rising Star Chef (Chef de Cuisine Nate Hobart). Morcilla continues on the upswing in 2017. Severino and Hobart serve an array of extraordinary Spanish dishes in their taverna with a boisterous atmosphere in Lower Lawrenceville. Pittsburghers in search of a late-evening bite now can sit at the bar and enjoy charcuterie, conservas and other snacks with a glass of sherry, cider or vermouth.  
 

Bar Marco

STRIP DISTRICT: 2216 Penn Ave.
412/471-1900, barmarcopgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Justin Steel
[Italian]  No other restaurant in Pittsburgh turned things around last year the way Bar Marco did. Executive Chef/Co-Owner Justin Steel found his culinary voice in 2016 and now is preparing some of the most craveable dishes in Pittsburgh. Steel focuses on regional Italian specialties such as pork tonnato, gorgeously crafted seasonal salads and extraordinary pasta dishes, as well as larger plates such as osso bucco with saffron risotto. Visit on Tuesday nights for a classic Chicken Parmigiana special. Sommelier Dominic Fiore leads an attentive, well-informed front-of-house staff.
 

Spoon

EAST LIBERTY: 134 Highland Ave.
412/362-6001, spoonpgh.com
Executive Chef Jamilka Borges
[American]  A new executive chef (Jamilka Borges) and a fresh interior design revitalized Spoon, which was one of the foundation restaurants of Pittsburgh’s recent dining resurgence. Borges brings her nuanced touch to dishes such as smoked bluefish, in which a vivid display of flavor, texture and color enhance the meaty fish. Main courses such as farrotto — a farro-based play on risotto served with sunchokes and pickled apples — are a delight. Perfectly balanced cocktails and outstanding wine service (Pittsburgh Magazine named Spoon “Best Complete Bar Program” earlier this year) complement the cuisine.
 

Casbah

SHADYSIDE: 229 S. Highland Ave.
412/661-5656, casbahpgh.com
Executive Chef Dustin Gardner
[Mediterranean]  In 2016, Executive Chef Dustin Gardner returned to Casbah, where he previously worked as sous chef, to helm the kitchen of the celebrated Shadyside restaurant. He infused the longtime favorite with new energy by adding a killer Saturday-brunch service as well as dishes such as reimagined beet salad with Marcona almonds and French green-lentil vinaigrette, and pappardelle with honey-roasted mushrooms and poppy seeds. Specialty weeks such as the seasonal Festa di Pasta celebrations and the end-of-summer Tomato and Corn Menu always are a hit.  
 

White runner-bean soup with saffron, green-garlic Manchego and pimenton dulce
 

Cure

LAWRENCEVILLE: 5336 Butler St.
412/252-2595, curepittsburgh.com
Executive Chef/co-Owner Justin Severino
[Mediterranean]  Cure just keeps getting better. Now in its sixth year, Justin Severino’s restaurant in Upper Lawrenceville continues its run as a destination-dining experience. Severino offers a six-course tasting menu, which enables diners to experience the full array of his outstanding, Mediterranean-influenced cuisine. A la carte dining also is a welcome option at Cure. We love that you can stop by for a salumi plate accompanied by a glass of wine, small and large portions of pasta and entrees such as Spanish mackerel with white runner beans, Calabrian chili, sweet and spicy pickled celery and preserved Meyer lemon.  
 

Legume

OAKLAND: 214 N. Craig St.
412/621-2700, legumebistro.com
Executive Chef/co-Owner Trevett Hooper
[American]  Eating at Legume is a delicious cycle of the seasons. Corn and tomatoes are celebrated at the peak of summer. Squash is honored as the first crisp air of autumn sets in. Cassoulet warms our bones when it gets cold in December. Zurek, a sour rye-bread soup, is served in March when the cupboards are bare and the fields still are barren. April brings ramps and dandelions, the first edible signs of spring. In early summer, the menu once again tilts more heavily toward vegetables.  
(above) Pork T-bone with grilled ramps, pickled pineapple and Carolina Gold rice.
 

Chengdu Gourmet

SQUIRREL HILLl: 5840 Forward Ave. 
412/521-2088, chengdugourmet.net
Executive Chef/owner Wei Zhu
[Sichuan Chinese]  One of the best Sichuan restaurants in the United States is located in Pittsburgh. Executive Chef/Owner Wei Zhu, a 2017 James Beard Foundation semi-finalist in the Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic category, serves intoxicating preparations of dishes such as cumin lamb, mapo tofu and chongqing crispy chicken, plus balancing vegetable dishes such as hand cabbage and sauteed Chinese broccoli with black pepper. The best thing to do when visiting here is to gather a group of people first: you’re going to want to order more than you’re able to eat. And don’t even think about ordering from the Americanized menu; stick to the Sichuan menus.
 

Eleven Contemporary Kitchen

STRIP DISTRICT: 1150 Smallman St. 
412/201-5656, elevenck.com
Executive Chef Eli Wahl
[American]  Eleven Contemporary Kitchen is flexible. Diners can enjoy a business lunch in the main dining room, a casual happy hour with friends in the comfortable bar, a great brunch with family or crushing one of the best burgers in the ’Burgh with just about anyone. Eleven also offers an elevated dinner dining experience with attentive service and skillfully prepared dishes such as wild Alaskan halibut with crème fraiche potato puree, ramps, English peas and tarragon crumb with mustard-seed vinaigrette.
 

Whipped strawberry cheesecake with candied Marcona almonds, white-chocolate “Magic Shell” and basil sugar
 

Whitfield

EAST LIBERTY: 120 S. Whitfield St.
412/626-3090, whitfieldpgh.com
Executive Chef Bethany Zozula
[American]  Hotel dining in Pittsburgh advanced a level when Whitfield, the restaurant attached to Ace Hotel in East Liberty, opened at the end of 2015. The restaurant offers a variety of options: a steakhouse menu with cuts from grass-finished cows from Jubilee Hilltop Ranch, a tavern menu of dishes such as smoked trout and duck confit, and a nightly vegetarian tasting menu. Don’t skip dessert. Casey Renee, Whitfield’s pastry chef, is a 2017 James Beard Foundation semifinalist in the Outstanding Pastry Chef category.  
 

täko

​DOWNTOWN: 214 Sixth St.
412/471-8256, takopgh.com
Executive Chef/co-Owner Richard DeShantz
[Tacos]  Executive Chef/Co-Owner Richard DeShantz and Chef de Cuisine Dave Racicot craft an ambitious menu of chef-driven tacos. Racicot’s daily taco specials such as braised-beef short ribs over crispy cheese and tuna tartare wrapped in an heirloom-corn tortilla are can’t-miss dishes. täkō’s bar program is one of the best in Pittsburgh, and servers always are helpful. DeShantz also operates Butcher and the Rye, Meat & Potatoes and Pork & Beans, all of which are within walking distance of täkō.  
 

Stagioni

SOUTH SIDE: 2104 E. Carson St.
412/586-4738, stagionipgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Stephen Felder
[Italian]  Executive Chef/Co-Owner Stephen Felder wanted to add house-baked pizza to the menu of his restaurant from the time it operated in its original Bloomfield location. This year, he did. Now, he offers pies topped with ingredients such as artichoke, porchetta and roasted mushrooms. Pasta dishes such as ricotta cavatelli and wild boar ragu with orange gremolata and port currants also are standouts, as are the outstanding polenta selections.  
 

Cheesecake with raspberries
 

Wild Rosemary

UPPER ST. CLAIR: 1469 Bower Hill Road
412/221-1232, wildrosemary.com
Chef/co-owner Gloria Fortunato
[Mediterranean]  One of the most sought-after tables — the most consistently hard to reserve in Pittsburgh — is found in a classic neighborhood restaurant. Longstanding regulars have first dibs on the restaurant’s 28 seats, but all that means is that would-be-diners should call and get their names on a waiting list. Chef/Co-Owner Gloria Fortunato’s menu changes frequently, inspired by the gentle passing of the seasons.  
 

Soba

​SHADYSIDE: 5847 Ellsworth Ave. 
412/362-5656, sobapa.com
Executive Chef Lily Tran
[Pan Asian]  big Burrito Restaurant Group’s pan-Asian restaurant is on the upswing as Executive Chef Lily Tran deepens her exploration of cuisine. Her dim sum menu — with dishes such as roasted squash dumplings with shiitake mushrooms and cipollini onion, and bahn mi bao buns with pork belly, duck pate, pickles and cilantro — is a treat, as are dishes such as Burmese tea-leaf salad with peanuts, tomato, split peas, sesame seed, crispy shallot, shrimp dust and jalapeño.  
 

Avenue B

SHADYSIDE: 5501 Centre Ave. 
412/683-3663, avenueb-pgh.com
Executive Chef/owner Chris Bonfili
[American]  Avenue B in Shadyside keeps going strong year after year, so much so that it expanded into an additional room in 2016. Bistro favorites such as wild-caught fish and chips topped with malt aioli and served with Napa cabbage slaw, and braised short ribs with sweet pea and mascarpone ravioli, mushroom dashi and black garlic keep both longtime regulars and new Pittsburghers happy. Here’s a nice bit of hospitality: the BYOB restaurant doesn’t charge a corkage fee on Sunday nights.  
 

Morels, green almonds, green garbanzo and ramps
 

Vivo Kitchen

SEWICKLEY: 432 Beaver St.
412/259-8945, vivokitchen.com
Executive Chef/co-Owner Sabatino “Sam” DiBattista
[Mediterranean]  Vivo Kitchen strikes a perfect balance between ambitious and casual, making it both a comfortable neighborhood restaurant for Sewickley residents and an easy destination drive for city dwellers looking for a night out. Go for comforting dishes such as crispy whole chicken accented with fried garlic and seasonal treats such as morels served with country ham, halloumi and chili peppers. An added touch: DiBattista designed and built most of the restaurant’s interior.  
 

Dinette

SHADYSIDE: 5996 Centre Ave. 
412/362-0202, dinette-pgh.com
Chef/owner Sonja Finn
[Mediterranean]  Chef Sonja Finn is one of the founding figures in Pittsburgh’s dining renaissance. It’s almost a given that better restaurants now change their menus with the season. Not only has Finn been doing that longer than most Pittsburgh chefs, but she also continues to be at the top of the list of those who do it now. Whether you’re there for late-winter Jerusalem artichokes with paprika aioli or peak-summer Serbian-style rooftop-grown salad of roasted hot peppers, tomatoes, feta and onion, you’re in good hands.
 

Il Pizzaiolo

MT. LEBANON: 703 Washington Road 
412/344-4123, ilpizzaiolo.com
Executive Chef Matt Stover
[Italian]  Owner Ron Molinaro and his team expanded the Italian eatery and pizzeria to two new locations in the past 12 months, but the original in Mt. Lebanon remains the best of the bunch. Classic Neapolitan pizza — something Molinaro perfected long before the current trend toward that style of pizza — is a draw, thanks to high-quality ingredients and expert craftsmanship. Be sure to visit the restaurant’s cozy wine bar for a pre- or post-meal drink.  
 

Pan-seared halibut with cauliflower and orange foam
 

Senti

​LAWRENCEVILLE: 3473 Butler St.
412/586-4347, sentirestaurant.com
Executive Chef Antonio Garcia
[Italian]  It’s all class at Senti, a northern Italian restaurant in Lower Lawrenceville. Executive Chef Antonio Garcia delights diners with dishes such as Capesante alla Mela Verde (seared scallops with crispy potatoes and smoked green apple) and Filetto di Maiale (pork tenderloin served with prune and fig compote, fried leeks and lemon-zest mashed potatoes). Owner Franco Braccia runs the front-of-house with an old-world charm that’s hard to find anywhere else in Pittsburgh. The wine list is one of the best you’ll find in town.
 

Lautrec

NEMACOLIN WOODLANDS RESORT, FARMINGTON, FAYETTE COUNTY: 1001 Lafayette Drive
724/329-8555, nemacolin.com/dining/fine-dining/lautrec
Executive Chef Kristin A. Butterworth
[Fine Dining]  Lautrec, the five-star, five-diamond restaurant at the Nemacolin Woodlands Resort in Farmington, is destination dining for Pittsburghers. Executive Chef Kristin A. Butterworth offers prix-fixe, vegan, vegetarian and dessert menus, plus the extraordinary Chef’s Table tasting-menu experience. Ingredients often are sourced from nearby purveyors such as Footprints Farm. Sure, it’s a 60-mile drive from Downtown to Lautrec, but it’s absolutely worth it.
 

The Twisted Frenchman

EAST LIBERTY: 128 S. Highland Ave. 
412/361-1340, thetwistedfrenchman.com
Executive Chef/partner Andrew Garbarino
[Modern French]  Andrew Garbarino is one of the most ambitious chefs in Pittsburgh. His focus on high-end, hard-to-find ingredients such as Hokkaido scallops, Poulet Rouge, Russian imperial Osetra caviar and highest-grade Japanese Wagyu beef enhances his modern, French-inspired cuisine. Garbarino plans to take The Twisted Frenchman to the next level with a move down the block and a relaunch as a multilevel, dual-concept space (tasting-menu-only upstairs, brasserie downstairs) later in the year.  
 

Cocothé

SEWICKLEY: 545 Beaver St.
412/259-8847, cocothe.com
Executive Chef Dave DeVoss
[American]  Cocothé’s move into the space adjacent to its original location earned Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2017 Delicious Design award for this American restaurant with French influences. It also allowed Executive Chef Dave DeVoss to deepen his exploration of cuisine and offer two- or three-course tasting menus with dishes such as veal sweetbreads with braised red cabbage and cheese ravioli topped with lingonberry sauce and a seafood tartar of osetra caviar, scallop, bluefin tuna and pickled pink peppercorn.
 

photo by Ann fernandez
 

Bruneaux

Sewickley: 409 Beaver St.
412/741-9200, bruneaux409.com
Executive Chef Patrick Kaderka
[French]  Members of Pittsburgh Magazine’s independent Restaurant Review Panel were taken with Bruneaux’s ambitious French-inspired menu, noting that Continental cuisine and elegant decor are hard to find in Pittsburgh, particularly in the suburbs. Panel members loved Executive Chef Patrick Kaderka’s beautiful plating, too. The baked Dover sole, served with lemon, capers and blistered tomatoes, is a solid jumping-off point.
 

Black cod with miso and lemon
 

umi Japanese Restaurant

SHADYSIDE: 5849 Ellsworth Ave.
412/362-6198, bigburrito.com/umi
Executive Chef Mr. Shu
[Japanese]  Seats — especially those at the sushi counter — book quickly at umi. Executive Chef Mr. Shu began running the raw bar at big Burrito Restaurant Group’s high-end sushi restaurant in 1999, drawing diners from all around the region. Make a reservation for omakase, the seven- or 11-course tasting menu, or create your own meal with appetizers such as ebi-stuffed shiitake and tako su (octopus salad) plus an array of sushi and sashimi.  
 

Gaucho Parilla Argentina

STRIP DISTRICT: 1601 Penn Ave.
412/709-6622, eatgaucho.com
Executive Chef/Owner Anthony Falcon
[Argentine]  You’ll smell Gaucho before you see it. The warming aroma of beef cooking over the restaurant’s hardwood grills envelops the Strip District, acting as a homing beacon for meat lovers. There often is a line — sometimes around the block — but it moves fast, and the wait is worth it. Flame-kissed steaks are a draw, as are wood-roasted pork, fish and chicken. Thinking of throwing a party for a large group? La Bodega, Gaucho’s downstairs event space, fits 30 people for a sit-down dinner and 45 for a cocktail party.  
 

Apteka

BLOOMFIELD: 4606 Penn Ave.
aptekapgh.com
Chefs/owners Kate Lasky & Tomasz Skowronski
[Central/Eastern European]  Chef/Owners Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski are redefining central and eastern European cuisine with their enticing, all-vegan menu. Pair those dishes with any of the innovative cocktails bolstered by unconventional ingredients such as pickled prune, celery seed and juniper, and it’s pretty clear why Pittsburgh Magazine’s independent Restaurant Review Panel selected Apteka as its 2017 Best New Restaurant. Lasky and Skowronski also have the esteem of Pittsburgh chefs — the duo is honored in the 2017 chefs’ poll as the city’s Rising Star chefs.  
 

B52 Cafe

LAWRENCEVILLE: 5202 Butler St.
412/781-5204, b52pgh.com
Chef/owner Omar Abuhejleh
[Middle Eastern]  Looking for a restaurant that demonstrates that animal products aren’t a necessary component to your meal? You might find yourself to be a frequent visitor to B52, a cafe and eatery that specializes in Levantine vegan cuisine. Dishes such as lentil soup, baba ghanouj, falafel sandwich and kofta tofu scramble all are standouts. Coffee and tea drinks — bolstered by house-made almond milk and other flavors — are a draw to B52 as well.   
 

Smoke Barbeque Taqueria

LAWRENCEVILLE: 4115 butler st.
412/224-2070, smokepgh.com
Executive Chef/co-owner Jeff Petruso
[Barbeque]  Catch the best southwestern flavors at Smoke. The specialty here is barbecued meat served in fresh-made flour tortillas (Executive Chef/Co-Owner Jeff Petruso also crafts delicious corn tortillas, but you have to ask for them). Smoke turns into a hamburger joint on Tuesday, and the burgers — particularly the decadent specials — are every bit as tasty as the tacos. Sunday brunch also is a lot of fun: Smoked, then-fried chicken tacos and chorizo-gravy biscuits are treats, and the drinks are excellent.  
 

(above) Stuffed lobster tail with grilled asparagus, baked potato and sweet mustard
 

Penn Avenue Fish Company

STRIP DISTRICT: 2208 Penn Ave.
412/434-7200, pennavefishcompany.com
Owner Henry B. Dewey
[Seafood]  Pittsburgh’s finest fish market also houses one of the city’s best budget eateries. Diners are drawn to Penn Avenue Fish Company for a rotating — dependent on what’s fresh — selection of sandwiches such as North Atlantic salmon with teriyaki glaze and grilled swordfish with house-made barbecue sauce. Soups, fish-topped salads, fish tacos, wraps and more round out the menu. Penn Avenue Fish Company also serves a highly regarded selection of sushi.  
 

Lamb curry is one of many dishes offered at Salem’s hot bar
 

Salem’s Market & Grill

STRIP DISTRICT: 2923 Penn Ave.
412/235-7828
General Manager/Owner Abdullah Salem
[Middle Eastern]  Salem’s very well may be the most inclusive restaurant in Pittsburgh, attracting everyone from recent immigrants to city government workers. The 100-percent halal menu is a delicious mix of Middle Eastern, Indian, Pakistani and Mediterranean cuisines. Go for dishes such as luscious lamb or goat curry, saag paneer, seekh and shish kebabs, and lamb chops. Don’t skip the hot, pillowy naan, which comes fresh from the restaurant’s tandoor. The attached market contains one of Pittsburgh’s finest butcher shops.
 

Joseph Tambellini Restaurant

HIGHLAND PARK: 5701 Bryant St.
412/665-9000, josephtambellini.com
Executive Chef/co-Owner Joseph Tambellini
[Italian-American]  Talk about classic Pittsburgh: Executive Chef/Co-Owner Joseph Tambellini is part of an extended family of Tambellini restaurateurs; he cut his teeth working for his father and uncle in 1979 at Robert Tambellini’s, Downtown. Members of our independent Restaurant Review Panel enjoy dining at this eponymous restaurant for its classic, white-tablecloth service. Italian-American greatest hits such as zucchini planks, chicken Marsala and meatballs are favorite dishes for Pittsburgh diners. Don’t skip the wine list; it’s terrific.  
 

Piccolo Forno

LAWRENCEVILLE: 3801 Butler St.
412/622-0111, piccolo-forno.com
Chef/owner Domenic Branduzzi
[Italian]  Piccolo Forno was cool long before its neighborhood, Lawrenceville, became so. Chef/Owner Domenic Branduzzi prepares Northern Italian comfort food with dishes such as lasagna toscana and rotating risotto specials. Branduzzi also was well ahead of the recent boom in quality, house-made pizza; it’s worth a visit to have one for lunch or share one as part of your dinner. Look for Ki Ramen, a partnership between Branduzzi and talented chef Roger Li (Umami), this year.  
 

Classic burger with American cheese, bacon, red onions and pickles
 

Tessaro’s American Bar & Hardwood Grill

BLOOMFIELD: 4601 Liberty Ave.
412/682-6809, tessaros.com
Grill Master Courtney McFarlane
[Burgers/American]  Tessaro’s, an iconic Pittsburgh establishment, expanded into a neighboring building and added outdoor seating in 2015. That’s great for the neighborhood, because the enticing aroma of burgers built from house-ground chuck and juicy steaks cooking on the restaurant’s hardwood grill permeate throughout Bloomfield. Sit at the bar to feel as though you’re a regular, even if it’s your first time visiting (because it certainly won’t be your last).  
 

Café Zinho

SHADYSIDE: 238 Spahr St. 
412/363-1500
Executive Chef/owner Toni Pais
[Mediterranean]  Executive Chef/Owner Toni Pais is one of the deans of Pittsburgh dining. He moved to our city from Portugal in 1978 and rose to prominence with the opening of Baum Vivant in 1992; the restaurant won Pittsburgh Magazine’s nod for Restaurant of the Year for eight consecutive years. But it’s Café Zinho, which he opened on a quiet street in Shadyside in 1997, that’s proved to be his lasting legacy. Loyal diners rave — and return often — to enjoy his Portuguese-influenced cuisine both in the vibrant dining room, and, when the weather is pleasant, at a table on the peaceful street.  
 

Dragon Roll, Dean Roll, Philadelphia Roll, California Roll &  Edememe
 

Little Tokyo Japanese Restaurant

Mt. Lebanon: 636 Washington Road 
412/344-4366, littletokyopittsburgh.com
Owner Frank Lin
[Japanese]  Welcoming and gracious service draw diners to Little Tokyo, a neighborhood institution that opened in 1997. The Japanese restaurant is the type of establishment where the staff, led by personable owner Frank Lin, makes first-time guests feel at home and longtime regulars feel like family. Dishes such as salmon dengaku — a miso-marinated, grilled fillet — and tonkatsu are popular, as are selections from the very good sushi counter.  
 

In addition to compiling the Best Restaurants List, members of Pittsburgh Magazine’s independent Restaurant Review Panel this year opted to recognize eateries with laudable specialties. They turned to PM dining critic Hal B. Klein for a list of restaurants he visits to satisfy a specific craving:
 

• Chef-Made Sandwiches: Thin Man Sandwich Shop
   
• Outdoor Dining: Pusadee’s Garden
   
• Old-School Meets New-School: DiAnoia’s Eatery 
   
• Ice Cream: Millie’s Homemade Ice Cream
   
• Smoked Ribs: Pork & Beans
   
• Beautifully Plated Food with a Chill Vibe: The Vandal
   
• Lunch with a View: Café Carnegie
   
• Mobile Pizza: Driftwood Oven
   
• New-School Pittsburgh Pizzeria: Pizza Taglio
  ​
• ​Late-Night Eats: Umami
  ​
• Southern Indian Cuisine: Udipi Cafe
   
• Korean Eats: Nak Won Garden
   
• Soup Dumplings: Everyday Noodles
   
• Soup and a Sandwich in Suburbia: Cafe Io
   
• Kaiseki: Chaya
  ​

Bill Fuller last was Pittsburgh Magazine’s Chef of the Year in 1998. An accompanying photograph depicts the chef, then 30, as Don Juan of the kitchen, his eyes staring into the soul of the camera as he peers through the window of a stucco building. Dressed in whites, he sports a handlebar mustache sturdy enough to drive a Harley, accented by a thick, racing-stripe goatee. Hooped earrings dangle from both ears. The caption: “Bill Fuller looks for future challenges.”

“High-energy, short fuse and very comfortable with being in charge. I like busy and crazy and being at the center to hold it all together,” he described himself at the time.

Nearly 20 years later, Fuller’s fuse is longer, though it sometimes hits the crackling point. High-energy and happy to be at the center of it all remain ingrained in his character.

He’s corporate chef and partner of big Burrito Restaurant Group, the most influential restaurant company in the city and one that’s built itself as a training ground for cooks, bartenders and front-of-house managers. Through Fuller’s consistently growing commitment to local food systems, big Burrito has helped to develop and cultivate the local farm-to-restaurant economy — and to shape the way Pittsburgh dines.

“There’s no job like mine. Very few people get to do this,” Fuller says.

Fuller’s portfolio includes overseeing five specialty restaurants — Eleven Contemporary Kitchen, Casbah Mediterranean Kitchen and Wine Bar, Soba, umi and Kaya — as well as 14 fast-casual Mad Mex restaurants and a full-service catering operation. Even in an increasingly competitive environment, his restaurants remain in-demand and relevant.

Fuller grew up in Falls Creek, a small borough that spans the boundary of rural Jefferson and Clearfield counties. He was, by his account, “dirt poor.” Hunting, gardening, canning and freezing food was a means of survival. His family relied on hunger-assistance programs, particularly after his father left the family. Even then, there often wasn’t food on the table at the end of the week. “We got free lunches. I was so ashamed,” Fuller says.

He left home immediately after graduating from high school and spent four months hitchhiking to Seattle. “I wanted to be Jack Kerouac.”

Fuller didn’t stay on the road for long, returning to Falls Creek shortly before Christmas of that year. A few months later, he moved to Washington, D.C. to follow a woman he met at a Grateful Dead show, and he got a job cooking at Krammerbooks & Afterwords Cafe. The relationship didn’t last, but Fuller’s relationship with restaurant kitchens did. He soon was working in the kitchen at The Occidental, a restaurant in Downtown Washington, under the wing of Chef Jeffrey Buben, one of the biggest names in town.

“It was about organization, structure, speed and efficiency,” Fuller says. “If you could survive in that kitchen, you could do anything.”

Fuller worked for Buben for seven years.

“He was willing to listen. He was willing to absorb. Talk about high-energy. He was willing to do whatever it took to get the job done,” says Buben, now chef/owner of Woodward Table and Bistro Bis in Washington.

Although Fuller was rough around the edges, even then the hungry young chef displayed leadership qualities, Buben says. “Some people have talent, the intuitive sense of cooking. Some people have drive. The people that have both are the ones that go head and shoulders above everyone else. When you have someone like that you push them forward.”

Fuller’s connection to growing up in poverty in western Pennsylvania still nagged him, so he put himself through college, earning a bachelor’s degree in chemistry from George Mason University. “I’m living in D.C. and meeting all these diplomat kids and intellectuals, and I realized I was just some hick line cook,” he says.

His next stop was California to pursue a doctorate in chemistry at the University of California Berkeley. He stayed for three years, earning a master’s degree before dropping out of the program. “I wanted to get back into the restaurant business,” he says.

He moved to Pittsburgh — the city nearest to his hometown — and worked at a restaurant on Mount Washington for a few months. He then met big Burrito founders Tom Baron and Juno Yoon. The duo (Yoon since has sold his stake in the company) had no previous restaurant ownership experience but now were operating their first Mad Mex restaurant in Oakland. In 1995, they opened Kaya — a Caribbean-themed eatery — in the Strip District. They hired Fuller as Kaya’s sous chef, but Baron says, “He immediately took charge and took control. He took ownership of what we were doing.”

In October 1995, big Burrito Group opened its second specialty restaurant, Casbah, in Shadyside. “As soon as they got that place, I knew I wanted it,” Fuller says.

Fuller nearly worked himself to death. In February 1996, he was hospitalized for exhaustion, unable to walk due to a leg infection. He spent three days in a hospital. He went straight from the hospital to work at Casbah.

“Yelling, screaming, working long hours, discipline above all. Structure above all. I was awful,” he says.

Fuller now says that behavior reflected the general tilt of chef culture at the time — the harder you pushed yourself, the more hours you worked, the more you proved you were a real chef.

Changing kitchen culture is something that’s now at the forefront of Fuller’s agenda — but, in addition to the machismo of that moment, he faced another challenge in the mid-1990s. “That high level of demand for excellence, discipline and quality wasn’t happening in Pittsburgh. We had to make cooks. There was very little going on here.”

Says Buben: “He helped start the Renaissance there. The company he went to work for was very aggressive with putting their personal stamp on restaurants. It was ahead of its time.”

Fuller with Justin Severino, executive chef/co-owner of Cure and Morcilla

As big Burrito Restaurant Group opened more restaurants, Fuller built more cooks. A lot of them:

• Justin Severino, executive chef and co-owner of Cure and Morcilla, first worked for Fuller as a culinary intern in 1998.
• Derek Stevens first worked for Fuller in 1999 and ran the kitchen at Eleven for 10 years before opening Union Standard in early 2017.
• Stevens’ longtime sous chef Bethany Zozula now is executive chef of Whitfield at Ace Hotel.
• Kevin Sousa, who plans to open Superior Motors in Braddock, was an executive chef at Kaya and Soba.
• Chad Townsend worked for Fuller and Stevens at Eleven and later for Sousa at Salt of the Earth; Townsend took over that restaurant after Sousa’s departure and now operates Millie’s Homemade Ice Cream.

The list goes on and on (click here to see the full Fuller family tree).

“He took me under his wing. He saw I was hungry and that I wanted something,” Severino says.
Early in his career, Severino was offered the sous chef position at Casbah, but he wanted to leave Pittsburgh. Severino told Fuller he was planning to move to Florida, but Fuller talked him out of it and hooked him up with a job on the California coast.

“Bill is the reason I moved to California. And California was absolutely the biggest influence on me as a chef,” says Severino.

Fuller hired Severino as sous chef of Eleven when he returned from California in 2007.

For other Fuller protégés, the biggest takeaways took place outside the kitchen.

Fuller with former big Burrito Chefs Kevin Sousa and Chad Townsend

“I learned an innumerable amount of cooking and food things, but you can learn those anywhere. But management and consistency, that’s a huge thing. That’s really hard to do and that’s really hard to teach. I’m realizing how hard that is now as we’re trying to create those systems and those routines at Millie’s,” says Townsend.

Fuller hasn’t stopped making chefs. “When free-agent signing time comes, the Steelers never go out and sign big names. They draft well, they develop, they promote from within, and year after year they have a quality organization. They don’t come out with a new offense all the time; they don’t do crazy new stuff. And, look, they keep going at a high level,” he says.

In 2016, he oversaw a seamless shift of executive chefs at three of big Burrito’s specialty restaurants. The movement began when Stevens left his long tenure at Eleven to open his restaurant, Union Standard. His departure set off a chain reaction that ended with new chefs running the kitchens of Eleven, Casbah and Soba.

“It went even better than I hoped it would. I always have a plan for what might come next. I know who works under the executive chefs and what their strengths and weaknesses are,” Fuller says.

Henry B. Dewey, Eric “Spudz” Wallace and Anthoy Falcon all worked for Fuller before running their own kitchens.

For example, Dustin Gardner, executive chef of Casbah since the 2016 transition, has developed a father-son relationship with Fuller. The house in which Gardner was living burned down in 2008, shortly after he started working for big Burrito. Fuller offered the young chef a room in his house. “He didn’t know me from anybody, and he offered this scumbag line cook to come stay in his house with him and his family,” Gardner says. “I’ll never forget that.”

Not everything Fuller touched has been a success.

Four big Burrito restaurants don’t exist anymore: Mr. Jones (a home-cooking restaurant in the North Hills), Vertigo Bar and Grill (in a laundromat across from Soba), and Saybrook Fish House (two of them, part of a franchise). “We survived those mistakes by blasting forward,” he says.

And he admits to arguing against a gourmet hamburger concept. “I thought it was a fad. I was totally wrong. I own that.”

An occasional miss aside, Fuller says a conservative approach to menu-planning is one of the secrets to big Burrito’s longevity: Identify larger trends and develop new menu items from them but stay away from flash-in-the-pan fads.

“One of the biggest things I learned from Bill was how important it was to understand what your customers want and how to give it to them,” says Stevens of Union Standard.

“Chefs tend to get bored and want to jump on any trend that’s new and exciting. But customers aren’t necessarily reading the same blog and cookbooks as we are. So you learn how to try to identify what people want and how to give it to them.”

Memories of Fuller’s food-insecure childhood remind him often that others remain in need of a meal. He serves on the board of the Greater Pittsburgh Community Food Bank and is a leader in its annual “Empty Bowls” fundraiser.

He also took over leadership of the Food Revolution Cooking Club at Pittsburgh Obama 6-12 school in East Liberty when it looked like it was about to dissolve; he teaches 25 students each semester. “There’s freedom in knowing how to cook for yourself,” he says. “These kids are going out in the world with more life skills.”

Fuller’s current focus is improving the quality of life for his chefs. He’s worked to streamline operations and tasks so that sous chefs typically work 45 to 50 hours per week and executive chefs 50 to 55.

Fuller with Derek Stevens and Bethany Zozula

“Now, we ask ‘What went wrong?’ when someone clocks in for more hours a week than they’re supposed to be working,” he says. “It’s not the same outlaw, tough-guy culture that it was. That’s not sustainable. I want stable people.”

Says Gardner: “We wanted to believe him, but we resisted doing it at first. There’s this badge of honor to work 80 hours a week. He set a blueprint for us. If you follow it you can have a life and still be great at your job.”

Fuller, who is married and the father of two children, turns 50 this year. He says that even though he doesn’t spend as much time as he’d like in the kitchen anymore, he still has big culinary and business plans. Expanding the Mad Mex concept is a priority for the company, and he’s also thinking about a sixth specialty restaurant, though he is cagey about specifics.

“The next 20 years are about making it a stronger, more sustainable company that can really grow and develop a lot of people.”

Next: The Fuller Family Tree

Dozens of chefs have worked for Bill Fuller, before going on to running kitchens of their own. The Fuller family tree has many, many branches.

!! Denotes chefs who are important to the development of Pittsburgh restaurants or otherwise notable.
* Denotes significant service at multiple big B restaurants

Executive Chefs

• Gary Terner
• Marla Beaman
  ​
• Tim O’Neil
• Mike Hendricks (GM South Hills Whole Foods)
• * Eric “Spudz” Wallace (Monterey Bay Fish Grotto)
• !!* Kevin Sousa (soon: Superior Motors • past: Salt of the Earth, Union Pig and Chicken Harvard & Highland)
• * Brandy Stewart (private chef)
• * Danielle Cain (big Burrito catering)
• !! Sean Ehland (current: Marla Bakery Restaurant, San Francisco • past: pastry chef at Aster (San Francisco) & McCrady’s (Charleston)
• Jason Watts (Sienna on the Square)
• Ben Sloan

Notable Chefs

• Jamie Achmoody
• Tim Ehlman (sous chef, Aster, San Francisco)

Executive Chefs

• Heith Miles
• Matt Millea
  ​
• Lon Durbin
• * Eric “Spudz” Wallace
• Vincent Smith
• Alan Peet (Oakmont Country Club)
• !!* Derek Stevens (current: Union Standard)
• *Eli Wahl (now: Eleven)
• *Dustin Gardner 

Notable Chefs

• !! Henry B. Dewey (Penn Avenue Fish Company)
• !! Quintin Wicks (Revival Kitchen, Reedsville)
• !!* Justin Severino (Cure, Morcilla)
• $ Dan Carlton (Butcher and the Rye)
• Valentina Vavasis (former dining critic, Pittsburgh Magazine)
• !! Chris Bonfili (Avenue B)
• Andy Schaumann
  ​
• David Thoms
  ​
• * Danielle Cain
• Jim Stein (McCrady’s, Charleston)
• Brian Little
• Shelby Ortz (Lux Artisan Chocolate)

Executive Chefs

• !!* Henry B. Dewey (Penn Avenue Fish Company)
• Michael Kiziak
  ​
• Drew Lise (later: Hyeholde)
• Mike Hendricks
• !! Anthony Falcon (Gaucho Parrilla Argentina)
• Jamie Achmoody
  ​
• !!* Kevin Sousa (see Kaya)
• *Brandy Stewart
• *Danielle Cain 
• *Dustin Gardner
• Lily Tran

Notable Chefs

• Jeff Iovino (Cafe Io)
• !!* Melanie Krawiec (sous chef Union Standard)

Executive Chefs

• Mr. Shu

• Matt Glick
• !! Keith Fuller worked one day at Mad Mex Monroeville so that he could say he worked for big Burrito

Executive Chefs

• Greg Alauzen
  ​
• !! Derek Stevens (Union Standard)
• *Eli Wahl

Notable Chefs

• Len Paisano (NOLA (deceased))
• !! Chad Townsend (current: Millie’s Homemade Ice Cream • past: Salt of the Earth)
• !! Bethany Zozula (Whitfield at Ace Hotel)
• !!* Justin Severino (see: Casbah)
• !! Nate Hobart (current: Morcilla • past: Cure)
• !!* Melanie Krawiec
  ​
• Barbara Ferguson
• Tom Lonardo (Legume chef de cuisine)
• Glen Hoover
• Geof Comings (Five Points Artisan Bakeshop)
• !! Fabien Moreau (La Gourmandine)
• Cory Hughes (Google)

JUSTIN SEVERINO

Nate Hobart → current chefs at Cure & Morcilla​

KEVIN SOUSA

Chad Townsend → Salt / Millie’s staff Brandon Fisher, Adam To and others; Brian Little

DEREK STEVENS

Bethany Zozula → her Whitfield staff; Melanie Krawiec → Union Standard Staff

For years, it was an ongoing rumor that Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski, operators of the popular “Pierogi Night” pop-up series, were planning to open a standalone restaurant. In March 2016, they finally did — and they made a lot of people happy by doing it. Pittsburgh Magazine’s independent Restaurant Review Panel named that restaurant, Apteka, our Best New Restaurant of the year. Lasky and Skowronski also were named “Best Rising Star Chefs” in our annual survey of chefs whose establishments are included on the Best Restaurants list.

Apteka is a vegan eatery that draws on Lasky’s sixth-generation Pittsburgh roots and Skowronski’s Polish heritage. The focused menu — just a handful of small plates, big plates and sandwiches are offered at any time — is a plant-based exploration of eastern and central European cuisine. Dishes such as Boczniaki z kapusta (oyster mushroom and braised cabbage in beer broth with butternut miso and rye crumb) and Baba Jaga (a vegetable-pate sandwich with pickles, smoked onion remoulade, pickled beet and mustard on house-baked seed bread) are deeply satisfying. Pierogi, the stuffed dumplings that started this whole thing, come on a big plate with two fillings: sauerkraut/mushroom and celeriac/apple/potato/horseradish. They are as delicious as they are popular. 
 

Apteka’s bar program also is outstanding. We named it “Best Bar for the Proletariat” in our “Best Bars” feature in February as a consequence of its impressive cocktails, crafted from housemade syrups, infusions, shrubs and tinctures. The best part about these exceptional drinks? They’re all under $10. The ethos here: If you can craft a product that’s more flavorful and also less expensive than you would find commercially, why not pass that savings on to the guests? 

The decor at Apteka might appear to be slightly bare-bones, but nuanced details emerge the longer you stay: The craftsmanship of the handcrafted wood bar. The back patio.

More is in the works as Lasky and Skowronski recently planted an outdoor garden area. Ambient music ranging from chill to surreal sets the mood, and guest DJs frequent a corner of the room.

What we love best about Apteka is that this is a casual, inviting eatery that is welcoming to everyone. It feels as if it’s a restaurant on the cutting edge, yet it also retains a timeless quality in its vibe.

Apteka
BLOOMFIELD: 4606 Penn Ave.aptekapgh.com
 

It’s not just the food that’s beautifully crafted at Cocothé in Sewickley. The restaurant’s interior — from its deep display windows to its shimmering black granite bar — exhibits the same attention to detail found on Executive Chef Dave DeVoss’ standout plates. That’s why Pittsburgh Magazine’s independent Restaurant Review Panel has selected Cocothé for its Delicious Design award.
 

The renovation — completed in August 2016 — took about two months from start to finish; Cocothé owner Courtney Yates says that the original rehabilitation of the building, begun after she purchased it in 2012, took about 1½ years.

The Main Street building, constructed in 1936, inspired Yates, who designed the space. “It was an art deco-style building. So I wanted to keep that theme running through to the design,” she says.
 

The thoughtful design of dishes such as foie gras on brioche match the restaurant’s stunning interior.
 

It starts with the recessed doorway, which is arched at the top and framed from the inside with a large rectangle of black beams. On either side of the door are deep, angled display windows with four large windows, which flood the room with natural light by day and frame a picture of the lively Sewickley street at night. 

Black and white is the dominant color scheme. The bar is accented with triangle layers of alternating color; the square chairs, outfitted in white leather, are trimmed and footed in black. The white tables, inspired by futurist architect/industrial designer Eero Saarinen, are square on the top and open to the floor like the bell of a trombone. 
 

Splashes of color pepper the contrasting primary scheme. Large photos, taken by award-winning photographer Porter Yates (Courtney’s brother), hang on the walls. Flowers, from nearby Cuttings Flower & Garden Market, pop from vases large and small; the lively displays change with the seasons.

Cocothé
SEWICKLEY: 545 Beaver St., 412/259-8847, cocothe.com
 

This year, we asked chefs to name their choice for Pittsburgh’s Rising Star chef. It’s fair to say that there’s a bright future for the city: Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski of Apteka received the most votes, with three. Nate Hobart, Bethany Zozula, Dave Anoia and Danielle Felix each received two votes, while nine other chefs (plus “a big wave of chefs”) each received one vote. Chengdu Gourmet is the kitchen in which most of the chefs said they wanted to work in for a day; Cure, Chaya, Pizza Taglio, Apteka and Gaucho Parrilla Argentina each have fans in two chefs who would like to visit their kitchens.

With another year, we have another round of chefs calling for expanded offerings of international cuisine and vegetable-driven food. Our chefs also say they need more … chefs.

They love working with a variety of ingredients (aside from two who mentioned tomatoes, there was no overlap in their favorite ingredient of the year). they are done with “tweezer” food, over-complicated dishes and plates with large hunks of meat in the center. 

Although one chef called for the end of the “local/sustainable” food movement, the vast majority of Pittsburgh chefs are enthusiastic in their support for the region’s farmers and ranchers. Who Cooks For You? Farm was the runaway star, with six votes; Churchview Farm received three votes, Root & Heart Farm, John Jameson and Tiny Seeds Farm each received two votes, and 14 purveyors each got one vote.
 

Who is your choice for rising star chef?

Kate Lasky & Tomasz Skowronski (3)
Nate Hobart (2)
Bethany Zozula (2)
Dave Anoia (2)
Danielle Felix (2)
Neil Blazin
Andrew Garbarino
Mr. Cenup (Ephesus Pizza)
Onion Maiden chefs
Jamilka Borges
Curtis Gamble
Brent Peyton
Dustin Gardner
Casey Renee
Justin Lubecki
there is a big wave of chefs putting their stamp on the city
 

In what restaurant (not your own) would you most like to work in for a day?

Chengdu Gourmet (3)
Cure (2)
Chaya (2)
Pizza Taglio (2)
Apteka (2)
Gaucho Parrilla Argentina (2)
Union Standard
Burgh’ers
Vivo
Nicky’s Thai Kitchen
Capital Grill
Nemacolin Woodlands Resort
La Gourmandine
Station
Hyeholde
Dinette
pastry kitchen at Ace Hotel
 

What other city or region do you most want to visit for culinary inspiration?

Mexico City (2)
Los Angeles (2)
San Francisco
Portland, Oregon
Portland, Maine
Istanbul    
Naples
Ho Chi Minh City
Montreal
San Gimignano
Reykjavik
Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan)
Washington, D.C.
Lima    
Asheville, N.C.
Pakistan    
India
Dubai    
Buenos Aires
Barcelona    
Tokyo
Paris    
Bilbao
Raleigh  
 Chicago
 

What was your favorite ingredient to work with this year?

Heirloom hot peppers
Jerusalem artichokes
Gustarosso San Marzano tomatoes
Sun Noodle products
Anson Mills flours and grains
pork    
ramps
Weatherbury Farm flours and grains
foraged puffball mushrooms
rice    
cumin
high-fat butter
fresh Greek mint
fermented chilies
chicken
Kaffir lime leaves
Who Cooks For You? Farm tomatoes
Osetra caviar    
carrots
tomato (Best season in a long time)
sweet potatoes
foie gras    
dijon mustard
kefir cultures
 

What would you like to see in Pittsburgh food next year?

more casual dining with good food (2)
more cooks (2)
Small butcher shops
a great Italian bakery focused on the breads and pastries of Italy
even more adventurous eaters
more high-quality sushi
more tacos
more restaurants with a “true identity”
more vegetable-driven food that makes you feel good after eating it
more food spots from our immigrant populations
more diversity in cuisine
Chinese barbeque
more camaraderie in the chef community
more halal and kosher items
late-night lounge
non-dairy as a viable option
more pastry chefs
hardcore vegan-east Asian cuisine with a bar
consistency
more non-Western dining options
Chengdu Gourmet gets a Michelin star
restaurants using good-quality ingredients across the menu
 

Who is your favorite farmer or produce supplier? 

Who Cooks For You? Farm (6)
Churchview Farm (3)
Root & Heart Farm (2)
John Jameson (2)
Todd Wilson (Tiny Seeds Farm) (2)
John Scott (Clarion Beef Farm)
Restaurant Depot
Penn’s Corner Farm Alliance
Three River Food Company
Serenity Hill Farm
George Weary (lamb farmer)
“Farmer John”
Anthony’s Original
Paragon
McConnell’s
Jubilee Hilltop Ranch
Footprints Farm
The Chef’s Garden
Wild Purveyors 
 

What culinary trend should we do away with?

Smearing sauces onto plate edges
“tweezer” food
[The idea that] more is better — sometimes more is just gross
truffle oil    
foam
Negroni variations
local/sustainable
using fat as flavor
meat-centric food
meat    
hotdogs
over-complication of dishes
squid ink    
mason jars
micro anything on everything
oysters in Pittsburgh
tapas    
bone marrow
fusion everything
long beards in the kitchen
desserts that get things poured over them and melt
not everyone has their own twist on what they envision 
 

RESPONDENTS

Eli Wahl (Eleven)
Chris Bonfili (Avenue B)
Sonja Finn (Dinette)
Ron Molinaro (Il Pizzaiolo)
Lily Tran (Soba)
Justin Steel (Bar Marco)
Justin Severino (Cure/Morcilla)
Joseph Tambellini (Joseph Tambellini)
Stephen Felder (Stagioni)
Kate Lasky and Tomasz Skowronski (Apteka)
Jamilka Borges (Spoon)
Wei Zhu (Chengdu Gourmet)
Patrick Kaderka (Bruneaux)
Abdullah Salem (Salem’s)
Sam DiBattista (Vivo)
Anthony Falcon (Gaucho)
Casey Renee (Whitfield)
Omar Abuhejlah (B52)
Dave DeVoss (Cocothé)
Brent Young (Whitfield)
Bill Fuller (big Burrito)
Kristin A. Butterworth (Lautrec)
Andrew Garbarino (Twisted Frenchman)
Trevett Hooper (Legume)
 

We lost some good ones in the past year.

Perennial Pittsburgh Magazine Best Restaurant honorees Root 174, e2 and Dish Osteria and Bar all shut their doors since we last published a Best Restaurants issue in 2016. In both my professional role as this magazine’s restaurant critic and food editor and in my personal affection for these establishments, I will miss them.  

Keith Fuller, executive chef/co-owner of Root 174 in Regent Square announced in July that he was closing his five-year-old restaurant.

“We had a good five years. We did a lot of volunteering for community organizations (such as Empty Bowls, the Environmental Charter School, the Greater Pittsburgh Community Food Bank and Project Lunch Tray), which is something I’m really proud of. We were a very consistent restaurant, but this year was financially challenging for us,” Fuller said at the time. 

I loved Root 174’s mix of comfort food and boundary-pushing cuisine, and I have warm memories of dinners with friends and family at the restaurant. Fuller’s playful side — most notably with his Star Wars-themed “May the Fourth Be With You” meals, brought an element of whimsy to the table. Fuller now is chef/partner at Pork & Beans, the excellent barbecue spot Downtown that’s part of the Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group.

Three months later, Kate Romane gave word she was closing e2, her beloved restaurant in Highland Park. The iconic Pittsburgh chef — one of 13 Pittsburgh Magazine highlighted in a November 2016 feature on women chefs who are changing the culture of Pittsburgh restaurants — opened e2 in 2010. She quickly built a reputation for serving terrific, Italian-influenced dishes; brunch and the “Sunday Sauce” family-dinner series were especially popular. 

​Romane now runs Black Radish Kitchen in Point Breeze. She uses the space as a base of operations for her catering business, hosts public and private special events and also manages two new subscription food-delivery services: “Love and Meatballs,” which includes meatballs, sauce, focaccia and Gorgonzola mess and “Love and Lox,” with bagels, butter, jam and cured salmon. 

The final — and saddest — shoe dropped when Michele and Cindy Savoia, owners of Dish Osteria and Bar, announced the last day of service at their cherished South Side institution would be on April 22. Dish was a longstanding honoree on Pittsburgh Magazine’s Best Restaurants list (and received the independent Restaurant Review Panel’s endorsement for inclusion on the 2017 list prior to its closing), and it also was named “Best Bar for a Conversation” in our “Best Bars in Pittsburgh” feature. 

It was one of my favorite restaurants in the city.

From an early evening aperitif and a humble plate of grilled sardines to a late-night feast of salads, seafood, pasta and wine, a visit to Dish was a dependable foray into gastronomic delight and good-humored conversation. The final weeks at Dish were a celebration of the restaurant’s impact on Pittsburgh’s dining community. The establishment each evening was crowded from the minute it opened until the moment it closed, capped by a take-it-to-the-street party on the final night. I know I’m not alone in saying, “Dish, we’ll miss you.”  
 

The biggest point of discussion and contention for our Independent Restaurant Review panel during many meetings and deliberations over the past year involved trying to answer a seemingly simple question: “How do we in Pittsburgh define a best restaurant?” 
 

photos by laura petrilla

Should an establishment where diners must order at a hectic counter and then pick up food in response to a page on their mobile phones be placed on the same list as a five-star, five-diamond, white-tablecloth fine-dining experience? Does outstanding cuisine trump casual service and mediocre decor? In the end members of the panel decided, for the most part, the answer is yes — as long as you know what you’re getting into. Just because an experience is different than a throwback-standard definition for fine eatery doesn’t mean it's less valuable. In fact, it often is more valuable. 

Here’s how you know that Pittsburgh’s restaurant scene is ascendant: The number of restaurants for this year remains unchanged from a year ago, but readers will find a lot of new names and places: 14 of the 33 restaurants for 2016 did not appear on the list last year. 

This unprecedented changeover reflects the increasingly diverse and ever-improving landscape of Pittsburgh dining. We still love our plates of meat and potatoes (and Meat & Potatoes), but we also are seeing chef-driven restaurants thrive with concepts that push beyond the traditional. 

Most of the additions to this year’s list are newcomers to our city’s booming community of restaurants. They range from a white-tablecloth Italian eatery run with old-world charm (Senti) to Sichuan cuisine cooked by a master chef (Chengdu Gourmet) to a hip enclave serving simple-yet-crafted plates (The Vandal). 

Some restaurants dropped from the list in previous years return this year because the panel believes the quality of ingredients and the skill of the kitchens merited newfound recognition; Dinette, one of my personal favorites, is a restaurant that meets that standard. Lautrec, at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort in Fayette County, also returns to the list because there is simply nothing else like it in western Pennsylvania. It’s a bit farther afield than we generally would include on our Pittsburgh-centric list, but we’re confident that this dining destination is too important to our gastronomic community to omit.

Read on for our picks of Pittsburgh’s best. Use our list as a guide, and return frequently to help you decide where you should eat, no matter what your mood or cravings dictate.
 

​Shadyside: 5501 Centre Ave.
412/683-3663, avenueb-pgh.com
Executive Chef/Owner Chris Bonfili
[American]  Go here for an upscale yet casual business lunch or dinner. The vibe at Avenue B sits comfortably on the line between neighborhood bistro and upscale dining. It’s the perfect place to make important decisions over fresh fish, seasonal vegetables and well-composed salads. Try dishes such as sea bass and scallops, served with purple potato succotash, spring onion pesto and saffron beurre blanc. Newly added Sunday-night dinner service is corkage-free.  $$
 

Downtown: 212 Sixth St.
412/391-2752, butcherandtherye.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Richard DeShantz
[American]  Go here for a decadent Downtown evening. The combination of classic cocktails, a massive wall of top-shelf bourbon and well-prepared, approachable cuisine makes Butcher and the Rye a perfect destination for a post-event meal. Start with “crispy pig wings” or a bowl of mussels, and then move on to hearty plates of monkfish “osso bucco” or cassoulet with duck confit, boudin noir and cannellini beans.  $$
 

Shadyside: 238 Spahr St.
412/363-1500
Executive Chef/Owner Toni Pais
[Mediterranean]  Go here to feel as if you’re escaping Pittsburgh for a night. Cafe Zinho is a port of tranquility hidden away off Ellsworth Avenue in Shadyside. There, legendary Pittsburgh chef Toni Pais connects with his Portuguese heritage with dishes such as whole branzino with lemon slices and olive oil, Portuguese fisherman’s stew caldeira and Bulhao Pato clams with white wine, roasted garlic, olive oil and cilantro.  $$
 

Shadyside: 229 S. Highland Ave.
412/661-5656, casbahpgh.com
Executive Chef Dustin Gardner
[Mediterranean]  Go here for consistent, comfortable quality. Some regulars at Casbah have been eating the same thing, week after week, for 20 years. Other Pittsburghers make Casbah their favorite destination for family celebrations or holiday parties. Indeed, what makes this restaurant so special is that it’s able to accommodate a variety of tastes while maintaining a high level of integrity in its cookery. Chef Dustin Gardner moved back to Casbah, where he previously was sous chef, from Soba earlier this year.  $$–$$$
 

Carp with green and pickled peppers (left) and spicy crab (below)

Squirrel Hill: 5840 Forward Ave.
412/521-2088, chengdugourmet.com
Executive Chef/Owner Wei Zhu
[Sichuan Chinese] Go here for the most adventurous meal you’ll have in Pittsburgh. Chengdu Gourmet can be challenging for the uninitiated to navigate. First step: focus on the Sichuan menu rather than the Americanized one. Then, work with the waitstaff to build a balanced meal. Yam noodles, Chongqing beef hot pot, snow pea shoots and double-cooked pork belly with leeks are good places to start. Don’t miss the house-made winter sausage, which is available only from December through February. Chengdu Gourmet’s Wei Zhu is among the chefs to receive Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2016 designation as “Outstanding in Their Field.”  $
 

Hudson Valley Duck  with seard foie gras, bananna pepper, nappa cabbage and marcona almond

Sewickley: 541 Beaver St.
412/259-8847, cocothe.com
Executive Chef David DeVoss
[American]  Go here for a quiet, refined meal on a wonderful small-town main street. We love how the quaint charm of Cocothé’s dining room pairs with the considered dishes of Executive Chef David DeVoss. Start your meal with perfectly cooked scallops paired with cannellini beans and pears, or a terrine of Hudson Valley foie gras with sweet-potato butter. Cocothé is set to expand later this year.  $$-$$$
 

photo by adam Milliron

Lawrenceville: 5336 Butler St.
412/252-2595, curepittsburgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Justin Severino
[Mediterranean]  Go here for a meal at Pittsburgh’s most recognized restaurant. Over the course of the last several years, Justin Severino — one of Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2016 “Outstanding in Their Field” chefs — has grown his flagship restaurant Cure into a nationally renowned powerhouse. Severino reaches out to chefs across the country for his Cure’ated dinner series, bringing in notable chefs such as Mike Solomonov (Zahav in Philadelphia) and Tarver King (The Restaurant at Patowmack Farm in Lovettsville, Va.). This year he also added a multi-course tasting menu to the Cure experience. A la carte options, including half-portions of pasta, remain some of our favorites in the city.  $$–$$$
 

Peel and Eat" Florida Gulf shrimp sauteed with ramps, fresno chilis, lemon and butter

Shadyside: 5996 Centre Ave.
412/362-0202, dinette-pgh.com
Executive Chef/Owner Sonja Finn
[Mediterranean]  Go here for a carefully crafted, casual night out. The best way to experience Dinette is to share a series of seasonal small plates and pizzas with your friends. Dinette might be best known for its pizza — and it is good pizza — but diners also should look to the top of the restaurant’s menu when assembling their meal. From a high-summer cantaloupe with Berkshire hog guanciale to late-winter parsnip-cream soup, the hyper-seasonal small plates are don’t-miss items at Dinette. The affordable and attentive menu helps to make Dinette a great draw for small groups.  $-$$
 

PHOTO BY Adam milliron

Editor's Note: e2 closed on Oct. 28, 2016

Highland Park: 5904 Bryant St. 
412/441-1200, e2pgh.com
Executive Chef/Owner Kate Romane
[Mediterranean] Go here for a warm celebration with friends and family. e2 is a perennial hit with members of our independent Restaurant Review Panel thanks to Executive Chef/Owner Kate Romane’s easy-to-enjoy take on Italian comfort food. Dishes such as penne pepato (spicy Sicilian red sauce and salata ricotta) and wild mushroom ravioli with leeks and porcini broth are perfectly executed and fine crowd pleasers. Show up early for the restaurant’s wildly popular brunch; doughnut, zeppole and frittata are big draws. $–$$
 

 
South Side: 128 S. 17th St. 
412/390-2012, dishosteria.com
Chef/Owner Michele Savoia
[Italian]  Go here to feel as though you’re a regular, even if you’re not. South Side locals and curious diners have been making Dish their home since Savoia took over the space — which once housed a pub called McCain’s — in 2000. He’s crafted a menu that moves with the rhythms of the seasons but also retains the comfort found in meeting the expectations of long-term regulars. Dish is a place where you want to linger; assemble a meal with a mixture of small plates, pasta dishes and excellent seafood. Be sure to enjoy the restaurant’s fabulous wine list, too.  $$
 

Strip District: 1150 Smallman St. 
412/201-5656, elevenck.com
Executive Chef Eli Wahl
[American]  Go here for a happy hour with coworkers or an expense-account dinner. Longtime Casbah head Eli Wahl took over as Eleven’s executive chef in March, replacing esteemed Pittsburgh chef Derek Stevens. Wahl hasn’t missed a beat transitioning to the helm of the big Burrito Restaurant Group’s high-end restaurant. Indulge in a pork chop served with corn bread and braised greens, or go lighter with succulent sea scallops and polenta cake served in a smoked-onion-and-parmesan brodo.  $$–$$$
 

Soup dumplings are a must-get at Everyday Noodles

Squirrel Hill: 5875 Forbes Ave.
412/421-6668, everydaynoodles.net
Executive Chef Steve Chow
[Taiwanese]  Go here for soup dumplings. Every visit to Everyday Noodles should include an order of soup dumplings, the umami-rich, broth-filled dumplings that are hard to stop eating. Dim Sum dishes such as rolled onion pancakes with sliced beef are worthy additions to any table. And don’t be afraid to branch out and try something that might be unfamiliar; marinated beef tendon, jellyfish salad and sliced seaweed with minced garlic all are delightful bites.  $
 

Strip District: 1601 Penn Ave. 
412/709-6622, eatgaucho.com
Executive Chef/owner Anthony Falcon
[Argentine]  Go here for a wood-fired party. Gaucho Parrilla Argentina expanded in 2015 into the neighboring building. The result of that expansion is a much larger kitchen and a significant seating area (there were no seats at Gaucho 1.0). It was a smart decision, because lines for the popular Strip District eatery continue to grow. The wait — Gaucho’s friendly and efficient staff keeps spirits high when lines are long — is worth it. Make sure to order hardwood-grilled steaks, but also get fish, chicken and other dishes too.  $–$$
 

Photo by Hal B. Klein
 

Mt. Lebanon: 703 Washington Road
412/344-4123, ilpizzaiolo.com
Executive Chef/Owner Ron Molinaro
[Italian]  Go here to celebrate the simple beauty of high-quality ingredients. Pennsylvania’s first Neapolitan pizzeria remains its best. Owner Ron Molinaro imports the finest Italian ingredients to make his stunning, airy pizzas. Toppings are simple and purposeful; eating here will reframe your expectation of what really should be called great pizza. Fior di latte (fresh mozzarella) is made daily from Caputo Brothers Creamery curds. Look beyond pizza to the pasta menu — all fresh pastas are made in-house — or enjoy a larger plate of eggplant parmesan.  $$
 

Potato Crusted Halibut Cheek with garden dill, malt vinegar pickled cucumber, onion marmalade and spring garlic cream

Farmington, Fayette County: 1001 Lafayette Drive
724/329-8555, nemacolin.com/dining/fine-dining/lautrec
Executive Chef Kristin A. Butterworth
[Fine Dining]  Go here for the meal of a lifetime. Raid your closet, grab your fancy garb and take a scenic drive to Lautrec. Whether you’re in the stunning 96-seat dining room or taking it all in at the private chef’s table, Executive Chef Kristin A. Butterworth and her team will prepare sumptuous seasonal offerings for you. Lautrec is one of only 27 five-star, five-diamond restaurants in the world. This year, Pittsburgh Magazine is recognizing Butterworth’s impressive work by honoring her as one of our “Outstanding in Their Field” chefs.  $$$$
 

Oakland: 214 N. Craig St. 
412/621-2700, legumebistro.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Trevett Hooper
[American]  Go here to celebrate the season, whatever the season. Executive Chef/Co-owner Trevett Hooper’s focus on seasonality means you’ll always find something to be excited about when perusing the restaurant menu. In winter, he coaxes funky brightness into hearty beef soup with the addition of kimchi, while at the height of summer diners can enjoy richly flavored corn soup enhanced with Morita chile oil and cilantro. If you happen to see any “limited-availability” dishes on the menu, jump on them because the season for some of the dish’s star ingredients is peaking and fleeting.  $$–$$$
 

Downtown: 649 Penn Ave. 
412/325-7007, meatandpotatoespgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Richard DeShantz
[American]  Go here to get your grub on, hard. Meat & Potatoes, the original restaurant of the Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group, continues to pack in crowds for dinner, brunch and late-night dining. The gastropub is located in the center of the Cultural District, which makes it a solid spot for a pre- or post-show meal. Go big with “meat and potatoes for two,” a 34-ounce ribeye served with mushroom ragu and bone-marrow gratin, or snack on fried pig’s ears with chili-lime sauce while sipping a perfectly crafted cocktail.  $–$$
 

Champinones a la Plancha: beech, maitake and oyster mushrooms, egg yolk, shallot and bread

Lawrenceville: 3519 Butler St.
412/652-9924, morcillapittsburgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Justin Severino
[Spanish]  Go here to enjoy small and large plates of Spanish cuisine. Morcilla is a stunner. It’s Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2016 Best New Restaurant, and Chef de Cuisine Nate Hobart is our choice for Rising Star Chef of the Year. Diners have two options when visiting Morcilla: they can hang out, snack and drink in the standing-room-only front bar, or they can grab a seat and feast in the 50-seat dining room. Either way, be sure to order a wide variety of plates to satisfy your every craving. If you’re seated in the dining room, don’t miss the suckling pig.  $$
 

Asparagi e Tartuffo pizza: truffled cacio, asparagus, egg and truffle oil

Lawrenceville: 3801 Butler St.
412/622-0111, piccolo-forno.com
Owner Domenic Branduzzi 
[Italian]  Go here for a roots take on northern Italian classics. Domenic Branduzzi’s restaurant on Butler Street precedes the Lawrenceville real-estate boom, and it’s on the verge of becoming enshrined as a neighborhood classic. Regulars love the wood-fired pizzas. Pasta dishes, such as lasagna toscana and gnocchi di semolina (Roman-style gnocchi with braised short ribs and currants), also are standouts. Be sure to arrive early or plan to stay late so you can enjoy a glass of grappa or amaro at sister space Grapperia.  $–$$
 

Editor's Note: Root 174 Closed on July 13, 2016. 

Regent Square: 1113 S. Braddock Ave.
412/243-4348, root174.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Keith Fuller
[Modern American]  Go here for a slightly off-centered meal prepared with a chef’s grace. Executive Chef Keith Fuller consistently creates some of the most interesting menus in the city. His dishes, such as chicken stuffed with house-made chorizo or braised lamb neck with pickled cauliflower and baba ganoush, are familiar enough to be comforting but offbeat enough to entice your adventurous side. Chef de Cuisine Kevin Costa now runs the day-to-day operations of the kitchen while Fuller develops the menu at his new venture, Pork and Beans, a collaboration with chef Richard DeShantz.  $$
 

Seared salmon with fresh herbs, wild mushroom broth, roasted root vegetables and arancini

Lawrenceville: 3473 Butler St.
412/586-4347, sentirestaurant.com
Executive Chef Shawn Carlson
[Italian]  Go here for classic Italian cuisine and extraordinary service. Franco Braccia, Senti’s co-owner and proprietor, runs the restaurant’s front-of-house with a classical elegance that increasingly is hard to find. Pair that with a plate of spaghetti in salsa or lasagna alla veneta and a luxurious glass or bottle of wine from the restaurant’s deep and alluring collection, and you’re in for a elegant evening. Although the restaurant has no formal dress code, guests will feel more comfortable if they wear something nice to Senti.  $$
 

Carota Cafe's baby kale, tatsoi, pea shoots, whole grains, roasted petite carrots & radish, sunflower seeds and herb vinaigrette

Strip District: 54 21st St.
412/315-5950, smallmangalley.org
Executive Chefs Stephen K. Eldridge, Jessica Lewis, Rafael Vencino, Jacqueline Wardle 
[Eclectic]  Go here to choose your own adventure. Smallman Galley actually is four independent restaurants under a single roof. Members of Pittsburgh Magazine’s independent Restaurant Review Panel believe each eatery — Provision PGH by Stephen K. Eldridge, Carota Cafe by Jessica Lewis, Aubergine Bistro by Rafael Vencino and Josephine’s Toast by Jacqueline Wardle — is a strong contender in its own right, but panelists decided to honor the entire restaurant incubator in one swoop for its interactive experience. Diners can create custom meals by ordering a dish from one restaurant and something else from another.  $-$$
 

An assortment of tacos and side dishes from the Smoke Barbecue Taqueria kitchen

Lawrenceville: 4115 Butler St.
412/224-2070, smokepgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Jeff Petruso
[Barbecue]  Go here for barbecue wrapped in a tortilla. Smoke moved from its original location in Homestead to a new, bigger Lawrenceville storefront in 2015. That move came with a huge upgrade in the smoker that Executive Chef/Co-owner Jeff Petruso uses as the starting point for his epic taco creations. They’re far from traditional — think American Southwest meets barbecue — but they’re ridiculously tasty. Favorites include brisket, migas and pork rib. Hamburger Tuesdays also are a popular treat.  $
 

photo by heather mull

Shadyside: 5847 Ellsworth Ave. 
412/362-5656, sobapa.com
Executive Chef Lily Tran
[Pan Asian]  Go here for an international experience. The big Burrito Restaurant Group’s pan-Asian restaurant is a draw for both big crowds and eaters looking to spice up their dinner. Executive Chef Lily Tran has infused the kitchen with new energy since early 2016, when she was promoted from sous chef. Tran uses the new late-night menu as an experiment station; her pho and chiang mai noodles now are must-get dishes on the regular menu too.  $$–$$$
 

East Liberty: 134 S. Highland Ave. 
412/362-6001, spoonpgh.com
Chef/Co-Owner Brian Pekarcik 
[American]  Go here for crisp service and upscale cuisine. Executive Chef/Co-owner Brian Pekarcik redesigned Spoon’s menu this year, adding more shareable plates and globally influenced options. Expect that trend to deepen as new Executive Chef Jamilka Borges — she won acclaim last year with her Wine Room at Bar Marco — adds her voice to the culinary conversation. The service at Spoon remains among the best in Pittsburgh thanks to general manager John Wabeck.  $$
 

OLIVE OIL-POACHED OCTOPUS, SMOKED POTATOES, CALABRIAN CHILI AÏOLI AND RAMPS

South Side: 2104 E. Carson St. 
412/586-4738, stagionipgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-Owner Stephen Felder 
[Italian]  Go here for honest Italian cuisine and seasonal specialties. Executive Chef Stephen Felder’s seasonal suppers are a treat for the palate. From the Feast of the Seven Fishes in December to a height-of-the-summer celebration in August, these four-course dinners are evocative of the best Italian tradition: Find the best of what’s growing and do as little as you can to highlight the flavors. Stagioni’s lunch menu also is a sleeper treat.  $$
 

Miso poached apple with pickled grape, frisée, cashew and cranberry vinagrette
​
 

Bloomfield: 4744 Liberty Ave.
412/251-0540, station4744.com
Executive Chef Curtis Gamble
[Modern American]  Go here for of-the-moment cuisine in a modern gastropub setting. Executive Chef Curtis Gamble’s menu combines classic and contemporary flavor profiles with a hint of modernist technique, with dishes such as miso-poached apple and lavender pound cake. The two-room restaurant offers bar seating in the casual front room and larger tables in the back room, which is meant to evoke a turn-of-the-century railroad waiting room. Sunday brunch is a fun, tasty time.  $$
 

Roasted whole fish with house-made tortillas and salsas

Downtown: 214 Sixth St.
412/471-8256; takopgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Richard DeShantz
[Tacos]  Go here for a good time and good grub. Executive Chef Richard DeShantz and Chef de Cuisine David Racicot (formerly of notion) take tacos in a new direction at this hotspot Downtown. Traditional bites such as carnitas and pollo asado will cure your craving for a trip to the Baja peninsula, while adventurous tacos such as tako (octopus) and Korean break the mold in a craveable way. The bar program is one of the best in the city, so don’t miss the margaritas and the delicious drinks on the custom- and classic-cocktail list.  $
 

Bloomfield: 4601 Liberty Ave. 
412/682-6809, tessaros.com
Grill Master Courtney McFarlane
[Burgers/American]  Go here for hamburgers. Although the new wave of gourmet hamburger spots might be getting much of the recent attention in Pittsburgh, members of the independent Restaurant Review Panel are happy to recognize this Pittsburgh classic for its top-notch hamburgers. Tessaro’s opened in Bloomfield in 1985 and is one of the city’s burger institutions. A recent building remodel and new outdoor courtyard make this a better time than ever to visit this old-school gem.  $
 

Beets: pickled, roasted, leaf, powdered, with goat cheese mousse and arugula, raw and fried

East Liberty: 128 S. Highland Ave.
412/361-1340, thetwistedfrenchman.com
Executive Chef/Partner Andrew Garbarino
[Modern French]  Go here for upscale, classically influenced dining with a twist. Executive Chef Andrew Garbarino’s ambitious kitchen combines French technique with modernist thought, and he peppers warm service with a bit of whimsical theater. The chef, trained at the Culinary Institute of America, shoots for the stars with dishes such as a three-way risotto tasting and petit poussin with Perigord truffle stuffing. The waitstaff is top-notch, as is the wine list.  $$$
 

Shadyside: 5849 Ellsworth Ave.
412/362-6198, bigburrito.com/umi
Executive Chef Mr. Shu
[Japanese]  Go here for sushi. Executive Chef Mr. Shu (Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2003 and 2013 Chef of the Year) brings solid selections to an otherwise sushi-starved city. He uses fish flown in from Japan and other locations, and he keeps his well-seasoned rice at an ideal temperature for nigiri. The best experience a guest can have at Umi is ordering a seven- or 11-course omakase (chef’s tasting menu), but diners also can enjoy sushi, sashimi and maki from the restaurant’s a la carte menu. Be sure to make a reservation, as tables at Umi book fast.  $–$$$$
 

Toast with housemade riccotta (below) and red peas (right) with poached egg and hot sauce

Lawrenceville: 4306 Butler St.
412/251-0465, thevandalpgh.com
Executive Chef Csilla Thackray
[American]  Go here for a taste of what’s cool, right now. The Vandal is one of the restaurants that is redefining the dining experience in Pittsburgh. It’s casual as can be — guests order at the counter, take a number and wait for food to be dropped off at their tables — yet it also is warm, hospitable and professionally run. Go for breakfast, brunch or lunch and enjoy diligently sourced and thoughtfully prepared dishes, such as beets with house-made ricotta, a killer pork sandwich and baked Anson Mills red peas with a poached egg and toast.  $
 

Upper St. Clair: 1469 Bower Hill Road
412/221-1232; wildrosemary.com 
Chef/Co-owner Gloria Fortunato
[Mediterranean]  Go here to snag a seat at the hardest-to-get table in town. It might be a shock to some readers to discover that this table isn’t found in the city at all but in suburban Upper St. Clair. Chef/Co-owner Gloria Fortunato cooks enticing dishes, such as pan-seared mallard duck breast with basil-pistachio relish and Luxardo cherries, and bistro ravioli stuffed with braised spring peas and leeks served in a lemon broth with walnut pesto, at her 28-seat restaurant. The menu changes frequently, so diners should come with an open mind. They also should make reservations well in advance of when they hope to dine there.  $$$-$$$$
 

  
Photos by laura petrilla

Pittsburgh Magazine recognizes five outstanding chefs for their extraordinary work in their specific fields: Kristin Butterworth, the chef de cuisine at Lautrec, takes fine dining to soaring heights while developing a network of until-now undiscovered farmers in southwestern Pennsylvania to help supply her restaurant; Justin Severino opened Morcilla, our 2016 Best New Restaurant, while also upping his game at his first restaurant, Cure; Casey Renee, the pastry chef of Whitfield at Ace Hotel, marries Michelin-star training with a down-home approach to creating delectable desserts; 
 

Wei Zhu, the Sichuan superstar, brings authentic Chinese cuisine to Pittsburgh while crafting a style all his own; and Rick Easton, the world-class baker who drew crowds from in and out of the city to Bread and Salt Bakery, for his famed Roman-style pizza before it closed in February.

We also honor Nate Hobart, chef de cuisine of Morcilla, as Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2016 Rising Star Chef.  
 

Kristin A. Butterworth
Lautrec

Kristin A. Butterworth, chef de cuisine of Lautrec at the Nemacolin Woodlands Resort in Farmington, isn’t your typical producer-to-table chef. She doesn’t need to worry much about the day-to-day buzz of Pittsburgh or the nation’s growing casual-food culture. 

Butterworth, who follows some notable Pittsburgh chefs on Instagram and sometimes comes into the city to dine, certainly is aware of the latest food trends. A meal at Lautrec is formal, but the refined cuisine is anything but stuffy. That’s deliberate. 

Her restaurant, located about 60 miles from Downtown Pittsburgh, caters largely to an affluent, vacation-traveller crowd. 

To that end, Butterworth has more in common with modern fine-dining pioneers such as Pittsburgh native Frank Ruta, the executive chef of The Grill Room in Washington, D.C., than she does with contemporary trendsetters such as Jessica Koslow of Sqirl in Los Angeles. 

“Years ago you could only get higher-end ingredients like foie gras and truffles in restaurants like this. Now you can find them in any number of places. And I think that’s great because more people get to experience it. But at the same time there’s an art — especially on the service end of things — that you only find at a fine-dining restaurant like this one,” she says. 

Menus designed by Butterworth start with her deep relationships with farmers in southwestern Pennsylvania, including Ellen and Jeremy Swartzfager of Footprints Farm in Gibbon Glade. “Shortly after I started here, they told me they had eggs and chickens and wanted to know what they could do to get their foot in the door,” she says.

Footprints Farm now is the restaurant’s primary supplier of chickens and eggs; the Swartzfagers also raise pork and duck for the restaurant. They’re about to expand into microgreens, lettuce and specialty flowers, too. Then there is Judy Sanders of Smithfield, who Butterworth says raises “every bird imaginable. She doesn’t even have a name for her farm, but what she’s doing is so beautiful and perfect.”

Butterworth’s from-scratch focus harkens back to one of her first jobs. She worked for two years at Luigi’s, a small Italian restaurant in Clymer, Indiana County. “It’s a tiny little place, but they’re famous in that area. Everything was made from scratch,” she says.

She left southwestern Pennsylvania in 2002 to attend the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners in Costigliole d’Asti. “That’s when I really started to embrace cookery,” she says.

Later, she came to work at Nemacolin for her first stint at the resort. She spent a year and a half there, first at what was then the Golden Trout and then at Lautrec under then-chef-de-cuisine Brad Kelly. “Nemacolin was a springboard for my career,” she says.

From there, Butterworth took a position in the kitchen on the opening team of the New Cloister Hotel and The Georgian Room Restaurant at the Cloister at Sea Island in Georgia. Fourteen months after opening, they were awarded the prestigious five-star (AAA), five-diamond (Forbes) rating. Butterworth stayed there for more than four years before moving to the Inn at Little Washington in Washington, Va., where she was Chef Patrick O’Connell’s sous chef.

She worked with O’Connell for a year and then was offered the job of chef de cuisine at Lautrec in 2010. She’s continued to buoy the reputation of the restaurant, which along with The Georgian Room is one of only 27 five-star, five-diamond restaurants in the world. Even with that distinction, she’s not resting on any laurels. “We’re still evolving. You have to keep doing that. You can keep up with what’s happening in the world without losing the classic style,” she says.

To that end, she’s taken the mantle and now is inspiring a team of young, hungry chefs who otherwise might not have gotten a chance to cook in a kitchen like this. “A lot of them are right out of culinary school or apprentice programs. They’ve never worked in a five-star restaurant before. I get to teach them classic techniques and how to perfect a dish,” she says. 

Still, it all comes down the basics, to the same things she was feeling when she worked at Luigi’s.

“I just love to cook. People ask me what’s my five-year plan, and I just want to cook. I don’t want to be in an office. I want to work with my chefs on the line. That’s the best part of the job for me.”
 

Justin Severino
Cure / Morcilla

If you pay attention to what’s happening in Pittsburgh restaurants, then you likely already know Justin Severino’s name. When national media talk about Pittsburgh’s restaurant resurgence, Severino, 38, always is one of the first chefs to be mentioned. Cure, the eatery in Upper Lawrenceville where he is executive chef and co-owner, consistently is packed. In December, he opened a second restaurant, Morcilla, in Lower Lawrenceville. 

Yet just a few years ago all of that success seemed to be a faraway dream.

“Cure is the biggest risk I’ve ever taken in my life. Nobody here knew who I was, and there was nothing going on in that part of town. But I had to do it,” Severino says.

His bet paid off, as did doubling down with a second restaurant: Morcilla is Pittsburgh Magazine’s Best New Restaurant of 2016. 

Severino started cooking while working for an Ashtabula, Ohio-based construction business owned by his father. While working on weeks-long projects in other cities, he and his co-workers stayed in hotels and ate in budget-conscious chain restaurants. After growing up in a home in which his mom cooked three meals a day, Severino says his body wasn’t accustomed to eating so much cheap, processed food. The active, athletic chef hated how that food made him feel. 

He learned some recipes — “typical Italian-American stuff” — from his mother and grandmother and convinced his dad to rent a group apartment instead of a hotel room for his crew. “I’d leave work an hour early to get dinner ready for everybody,” he says.

It wasn’t long before hobby cooking turned into a passion project and then something even bigger. The kitchen provided an escape from his otherwise humdrum life. “My friends were having parties and meeting girls, and I’m standing in hip-waders diverting a river in Columbus [Ohio] with a bunch of 50-year-old men. That didn’t make sense,” he says. 

​Severino enrolled full-time at the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute, and after graduation he left Pittsburgh for the central California coast. There, he worked at some of California’s most storied restaurants, including Manresa, chef David Kinch’s three-star restaurant in Los Gatos. After running his own butcher shop in Santa Cruz, he moved back to Pittsburgh. 

​Severino took jobs in a couple of well-known kitchens, including Eleven Contemporary Kitchen, Casbah and finally as the opening executive chef of the now-closed Elements Contemporary Cuisine, Downtown. He felt as if he’d paid his dues, and he grew increasingly frustrated that he couldn’t express his own culinary vision in any of those kitchens. So he took his big risk. He refinanced his house and asked his friends for loans and gifts. 

He leased the old Sunrise Cafe on the corner of 54th and Butler streets. The building, neglected for years, was a horror show of grease and vermin. He and a couple of pals gutted the space and rebuilt it from scratch.

“I started cooking out of desperation because I hated construction, and now one of the most powerful tools that I have as a restaurateur is that I know construction,” he says.

He’s continued to renovate Cure every year, and he devoted time off from his first restaurant’s kitchen to hand-building his second space, Morcilla. Sometimes between Cure and Morcilla he’d work 18-hour days. 

Now, both kitchens are humming, recognized not just by Pittsburgh Magazine but also by organizations such as the James Beard Foundation, which earlier this year named Morcilla as a semifinalist for Best New Restaurant. For the third consecutive year, Severino also made the organization’s long list for Best Chef, Mid-Atlantic region. 

Still, Severino takes it all with a grain of salt. “You think you know exactly what you’re doing. You think you know what your style of cooking is. And then you open a restaurant and you realize you don’t know anything."
 

Casey Renee
Whitfield At the Ace Hotel

At age 25, Casey Renee was living in New York City and spending her days, as she puts it, “as a professional liar.”

At the time, she was working as a corporate advertising buyer, putting together campaigns for television and radio and feeling pretty lousy about the work she was doing. Thrown into a quarter-life crisis, she quit her job and decided to attend culinary school full-time at the Natural Gourmet Institute, where she’d previously taken a few just-for-fun classes. “I just dove head-first into it,” says Renee, 31, now the pastry chef of Whitfield at the Ace Hotel in East Liberty.

After she graduated from culinary school, Renee worked at a couple of restaurants and for a catering company until, she says, “I fell into momofuku,” chef/restaurateur David Chang’s celebrated East Village noodle bar that’s impossible to just fall into. “OK, I pushed in.”

She nearly pushed too hard. On one of her first days of work she slipped and fell while holding a pair of very expensive egg cups. Although she managed to land the fall without breaking any bones or shattering the cups, she felt certain she wouldn’t be asked back for another day of the stage (a short test period when potential job candidates in higher-end restaurants work for free). Not only was she asked back, but Chang hired her to the full-time staff.

Renee worked her way up through positions in the kitchen at momofuku and at the same time worked for Brent Young, the Pittsburgh native who owns The Meat Hook in Brooklyn. She received a scholarship from Chang to intern at Thornhill Farms, a farm in South Carolina that is a feeder for forward-thinking Chef Sean Brock’s restaurants McCrady’s and Husk in Charleston, S.C. 

She returned to New York with a deeper appreciation for high-quality, flavorful produce, and she soon joined the culinary team at ko, Chang’s two-Michelin-star, tasting-menu-only restaurant. There are only four line cooks at ko, and they are responsible for creating both savory and sweet items. 

Her first dish on ko’s menu was a sweet one, barley sorbet with granola, grapefruit puree and grapefruit foam. “Once I started making dishes for the menu, they were always pastry dishes. I kept gravitating toward them,” Renee says. 

“I don’t know what it is about making desserts that I love. Well, I do have a ridiculous sweet tooth, so maybe it has something to do with that,” she adds.

Diving in head-first again, she went to work as a line cook and then sous chef to Brooks Headley, then the renowned pastry chef at Del Posto (he now runs Superiority Burgers), a rare recipient of four stars from the New York Times. “It was such a great time to be there working with Brooks. I got to do everything. I learned 10 years of pastry crammed into one year,” she says.

As high as Renee was flying in New York, she felt as though it was time to leave the metropolis and return to her native Pittsburgh. “I wanted to be back in a city that was more community-focused, where everyone looked out for each other instead of fighting for positions,” she says.

She’d kept in touch with Young, who was getting set to open Whitfield (Young still lives in Brooklyn but oversees the overall vision for the restaurant). Renee now brings her Michelin-starred, New York Times-lauded training to Whitfield, but she’s approaching her craft with a much more down-home approach. 

Take her olive oil-chocolate cake, for example. The cake itself is classically composed; moist and tender, the chocolate cut through with enough salt (a backbone of salinity is one of her signatures) to soften the sweetness. A layer of nutella mousse adds richness to the dish. The kicker is the blood-orange creamsicle, which enlivens the dish with brightness in flavor and in color; it resembles a Willy Wonka fantasy. 

It’s all part of the process for Renee, who consistently tries to push herself forward.

“I’ll make progress, then fail, keep trying and finally I’ll become sick of the dish. Sometimes I need to walk away to get it right. There’s always a moment when I think that I won’t get there. But I’ll hit a breakthrough, and I will,” she says.

She sure does.
 

Next: Three More Outstanding Pittsburgh Chefs
 

Wei Zhu
Chengdu Gourmet

Wei Zhu, chef and owner of Chengdu Gourmet in Squirrel Hill, crafts an authentic taste of his homeland with his well-executed menu of classic dishes, but while adhering to tradition he’s forging his own style by looking to contemporary Chinese dining trends and international flavors.

“The food here is my style, Wei Zhu’s style,” says Zhu, 49, a native of the city of Chengdu in China’s Sichuan province.
A recently added beef soup dish combines traditional Sichuan elements such as garlic, ginger, pea shoots and Sichuan peppercorns, but it also is served with Japanese ramen noodles and dressed with fresh and pickled jalapeño peppers. Or there’s Zhu’s addictive Chinese winter sausage, an item on the menu for only a few months of the year. The rich, fatty links are enhanced with organ meat and ferment into funky, delicious bites as they age.

“At other Chinese restaurants, they just make the same dishes. I am always trying to keep updated on what chefs are doing in China,” he says.

For example, raw fish is becoming increasingly popular in China. Although diners in the United States might wonder why something that feels more at home in a sushi joint is on a Sichuan menu, Zhu says this is right on trend with what’s happening in China.

He says it can take a couple of months of working on a dish before he’s satisfied that it’s ready for his menu. He’ll research dishes popular with contemporary Chinese chefs and then try to make adjustments, testing the dishes on his staff as he goes. 

Zhu moved to Pittsburgh seven years ago to work as the chef at Szechuan Gourmet on Murray Avenue in Squirrel Hill and China Star in McCandless Township. Before that, he cooked at restaurants in New York and New Jersey. Zhu grew up as the son of a baker, and according to cultural tradition he was expected to do the same work when he graduated from middle school at age 16. But his discovery of savory cooking opened up a whole new world for him, and after baking for two and a half years, he petitioned Chinese government leaders for permission to change careers; they allowed him to do so.

It was a challenge, he says, to cook for American diners. Their palates weren’t accustomed to many of the flavors of Sichuan province. Sichuan peppercorn, one of the primary components of the region’s cuisine, was banned in the United States until 2008. The dried berries of the prickly ash tree are an essential balancing element of the cuisine, as its numbing effect counters the fiery heat of peppers. 

“Chinese food in America usually has too much sugar, and I’m not going to do that,” says Zhu, who prefers dishes that are pungent or sour.

There also were self-imposed limitations, with Zhu believing most American diners might not be open enough to experiment with the cuisine. He still offers an extensive “American” Chinese menu at his restaurant, but thanks to an expanding customer base eager for adventure and a growing population of Chinese students in Pittsburgh, he says he finally feels more comfortable pushing the boundaries of his cuisine. 

Zhu still hopes to overcome some hurdles as he ascends Pittsburgh’s culinary Pantheon. He’s taking English-language classes Downtown so he can communicate more effectively with his customers and with local chefs. The downside of the classes: They keep Zhu out of the kitchen for a few hours a week. That forces him to confront the biggest challenge he’s faced so far: hiring a top-notch kitchen staff that can consistently prepare food to his standard.  

His other challenge he has is logistical. “It is hard to find all the ingredients I want here,” he says. “I have to go to New York to get some of the vegetables and the spices, but some of the dishes are still different than in China because it’s too hard to get all of the ingredients here.”

Later this year, Zhu says he hopes to build a small dining room downstairs at Chengdu Gourmet where he can experiment more deeply with his dishes. 

Ryan Lee translated for Wei Zhu for this article.
 

Rick Easton
Bread and Salt (no longer in operation)
(photo by Hal B. Klein)

Although Rick Easton’s Bread and Salt Bakery now is no longer in operation, Pittsburgh Magazine’s independent Restaurant Review Panel still voted to recognize Easton for his contribution to Pittsburgh’s gastronomic rise in 2015.

Easton’s bakery in Bloomfield was in many ways the most significant opening of 2015, garnering heaps of attention in Pittsburgh and from national media outlets ranging from The New York Times to Eater. Former Times food writer Mark Bittman wrote his final column about Easton’s world-class pizza al taglio (Roman-style pizza).

Easton, 40, is a native of Washington County and returned to Pittsburgh in 2012 after spending 12 years in Charlottesville, Va. He came back to Pittsburgh with the intention of opening a bread bakery after rising to local prominence for his naturally leavened rustic loaves of bread. He continued to bake those breads in Pittsburgh, and, before opening Bread and Salt, earned a cult following by selling them from The Livermore in East Liberty. By the time he ended Bread and Salt’s year-long run in February, however, his eatery primarily was known for the famous pizza, although his daily soup, sandwich and small-plate specials, and sweet treats such as bombolini and lemon curd, were equally spectacular. 

There were issues with Bread and Salt, many of which were discussed by the independent Restaurant Review Panel during its meetings. Easton hadn’t intended for the space to be a restaurant, but once it was evident the location had become a destination-dining spot, he could have pivoted in that direction by adding more places to sit down and eat. The by-the-pound pricing system confused some customers; it wouldn’t have taken much to train the counter staff to walk people through it. Speaking of prices, they were higher at Bread and Salt than at similar establishments because Easton used high-quality ingredients; just because a product is called ‘pizza’ doesn’t inherently mean it needs to be cheap. 

Easton raised the standard for sourcing by doing yeoman's work supporting regional farmers, particularly in his connection with grain-grower Nigel Tudor of Weatherbury Farm in Avella. For that and for his extraordinary culinary talent, Pittsburgh Magazine salutes him for his extraordinary work in Pittsburgh in 2015. 

He’s now living in New York City and pursuing opportunities there.
 

Rising Star Chef
Nate Hobart
Morcilla, chef de cuisine

Nate Hobart is 23 years old. For the last 3.5 years, the lanky, 6 feet, 4 inch-tall chef loomed large as the sous chef of Cure in Upper Lawrenceville, faithfully executing the vision of his boss and mentor, Justin Severino.

Now the chef de cuisine at Morcilla in Lower Lawrenceville, Hobart is a well-known commodity inside Pittsburgh’s restaurant community. We believe his rocksteady demeanor and strong leadership abilities now have earned him acclaim outside that world: Hobart is Pittsburgh Magazine’s 2016 Rising Star Chef.

“I’ve never worked with anyone like him,” says Severino, the executive chef and co-owner of Cure and Morcilla.

Hobart started working with Severino while he was still a student at the Le Cordon Bleu Institute of Culinary Arts. In the past five years, he’s become Severino’s trusted right hand; at one point the chef fired nearly all of Cure’s culinary team, and the two men ran the restaurant as a pair for five months.

“Even though he was super-young, he was always poised, focused and on time. We made the food better because we didn’t have to worry about what was happening with anyone else,” Severino says.

The rapport between the two chefs allowed Severino to promote from within his culinary team in Pittsburgh when he was searching for someone to run the day-to-day operations of the kitchen at Morcilla, Pittsburgh Magazine’s Best New Restaurant for 2016. Severino’s input still is integral to developing and changing the menu at the Spanish restaurant, but Hobart increasingly is taking ownership of both culinary and kitchen-management responsibilities. Severino might get the bulk of the credit for Morcilla’s success, but this is Hobart’s kitchen.

Hobart credits his work ethic and his head-down, focused approach to cooking for his success. Although, he won’t actually admit he is a success — yet. 

“I feel like I already am ahead of myself. That’s what pushes me to come in here and give it my best and give it my all. I’ve been given this awesome opportunity at a really young age, so it forces me to do better every day and show everyone around me that I’m going to work harder than you are. I have to do that to prove myself,” Hobart says. 

The rise of the celebrity chef and the increased popularity of dining out as a primary means of entertainment have created a culture in which many young chefs decide to strike out on their own once they start to build a bit of buzz for themselves. Hobart isn’t having any of it.

“For right now, I don’t want it to be any other way. I feel like I’m way too young to make those decisions. I just want to continue to learn and grow from these experiences working here,” he says. 
 

Lawrenceville: 3519 Butler St.
412/652-9924, morcillapittsburgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Justin Severino
 

photos by laura petrilla

Downtown: 214 Sixth St.
412/471-8256; takopgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Richard DeShantz
 

Lawrenceville: 4306 Butler St.
412/251-0465, thevandalpgh.com
Executive Chef Csilla Thackray
 

Lawrenceville: 3473 Butler St.
412/586-4347, sentirestaurant.com
Executive Chef Shawn Carlson
 

Sewickley: 541 Beaver St.
412/259-8847, cocothe.com
Executive Chef David DeVoss
​

This year we sent a list of seven questions to the chefs who appear on our Best Restaurants list, and we received responses from 25 chefs. In a reprise of our findings from last year’s poll, opinions varied widely on what matters to each chef.

Justin Severino once again landed atop the poll for Chef of the Year with four votes, but Trevett Hooper was right at his heels with three. Richard DeShantz of the Richard DeShantz Restaurant Group and Curtis Gamble of Station each received two votes; 13 other chefs got one vote each. With seven votes, Hooper’s Legume restaurant was the chefs’ choice for the restaurant they’d most like to work in for a day; Everyday Noodles drew three votes, Umi received two votes, and 14 restaurants each received one vote.

Once again, non-American cuisine such as high-quality sushi, dim sum, better Indian food and Korean BBQ topped the list of what chefs would like to see more of next year in Pittsburgh. The chefs also issued a call for vegetable-forward food, street food and customers who are open to trying new things. On the flip side, chefs say they’re eager to do away with artistic smears and splatters on plates, as well as bacon, microgreens and — as one chef put it — “Egos. Let’s just be cool with one another.” They’d also like to see more staff in their kitchens. 

We asked the chefs about their favorite farmers and produce suppliers. In their responses, Tara Rockacy’s Churchview Farm stood out among the 17 favorites, with seven votes; Who Cooks For You? Farm (3) and Jamison Farm (2) also received multiple votes. The chefs say they are eager to pair that produce with their favorite ingredients of the year, which include gluten, lamb shoulders, n'duja, black garlic and sunchokes. Every chef polled this year chose a unique ingredient.
 

Who is your choice for chef's chef of the year?

• Justin Severino (4)
• Trevett Hooper (3)
• Richard DeShantz (2)
• Curtis Gamble (2)
• Michele Savoia
• Joey Hilty
• Sonia Finn
• Keith Fuller
• Dave Anoia
• Toni Pais
• Csilla Thackray
• Chad Townsend
• Brian Pekarcik 
• Anthony Falcon
• Rafael Vencino
• Ben Sloan
• Too many chefs in Pittsburgh deserve this honor
   

In what restaurant (not your own) would you most like to spend a day working?

• Legume (7)
• Everyday Noodles (3)
• Umi (2)
• Szechuan Gourmet
• Chengdu Gourmet
• Butcher and the Rye
• Della Terra
• Saison
• Dinette (Pittsburgh) /
• White Rabbit (Moscow)
• Zahav
• Union Standard
• Aubergine Bistro
• Duquesne Club 
• Morcilla
• Dinette
• Cure
• Chaya Japanese Cuisine
   

What other city do you most want to visit for culinary inspiration?

• New York (3)
• Montreal (3)
• Chicago (3)
• San Francisco (2)
• Baton Rouge
• Istanbul
• Modena, Italy
• Buenos Aires
• Portland, ME
• Tokyo
• Mexico City
• Bologna
• Austin
• Dublin, Ireland
• Paris
• San Sebastian 
• Los Angeles
• Charleston, S.C.
• New Orleans
   

What was your favorite ingredient to work with?

• Anything fermented
• Fresh-milled polenta from Weatherbury Farm
• Lamb
• Gluten
• Jicama
• Foie gras
• ​N’duja
• Hungarian peppers
• Iota
• Kefir
• Red palm oil
• Trinidad perfumes
• Black garlic
• Chilies
• Agave nectar
• Lobster
• Island Creek Oysters
• Rock shrimp
• Lamb shoulders
• Sunchokes
• Fresh turmeric
• Eggs
• Rapini
• Suckling pigs
• Whatever is coming back into season at the moment
• Peppers 
   

Who is your favorite farmer or produce supplier?

• Churchview Farm (7)
• Who Cooks For You? Farm (3)
• Jamison Farm (2)
• Anthony’s Original Produce
• Marshall from Braddock Farm
• Chef’s Garden
• Tom the Tomato Man
• Pete from Heritage Farms
• Jen from Root & Heart Farm
• Weatherbury Farm
• McConnell’s Farm
• Brian Wiltrout
• Jubilee Hilltop Ranch
• Footprints Farm
• Penn’s Corner Farm Alliance 
• Nywp Enterprise LLC.
• Garfield Farms
   

What culinary trend should we do away with?

• Microgreens (2)
• Bacon (2)
• Smearing dish components on the rim of a plate (2)
• Over-complication
• Over-composed dishes
• Small portions / high prices
• Sous vide
• Pea shoots on everything
• Chicken and waffles
• Gastropubbery
• Expensive burgers
• Toast
• Egos. Let’s just be cool with one another
• Eggs everywhere
• The gluten-free obsession
• All of them! stop following trends and cook from the heart
• Without trends we don’t evolve in the kitchen so I say to each their own
   

What would you like to see in pittsburgh food next year?

• More culinary staffing (3)
• Veggie-forward foods (2)
• Street food (2)
• High-quality sushi (2)
• “Ethnic” (2)
• Better Indian food
• Korean BBQ
• Dim sum
• Emphasis on whole, fresh foods during production
• A food-truck court
• More French food
• More chefs involved with school food programs
• “I want to see more tasting menus and femininity. I think we are suffering from a certain level of heavy-handiness and male-driven concepts that the city is ready to grow out of.”
• Openness to try new things
• French bistro
• “I’d like to see the City Council pass a resolution in favor of requiring [genetically modified organism] labeling. Pittsburgh was one of the first cities to pass a resolution against the non-therapeutic use of antibiotics in 2014. Pittsburgh should lead the way with GMO labeling, too.”
• Chef-driven diner
• Sunday suppers/communities connecting over food to create harmony among one another
• The standard raised
• “Increased quality of restaurants not just quantity. The rapid growth is starting to worry me that there is a ‘bubble’ in [Pittsburgh] that is going to burst. Or at least rapidly deflate.”
• More upscale places. Fine dining is a dying breed. 
   

RESPONDENTS:

Chris Bonfili, Avenue B; Domenic Branduzzi, Piccolo Forno; Kristin Butterworth, Lautrec; Shawn Carlson, Senti; Richard DeShantz, Butcher & the Rye/Meat and Potatoes/tako; David DeVoss, Cocothe; Anthony Falcon, Gaucho Parrilla Argentina; Stephen Felder, Stagioni; Bill Fuller, big Burrito Restaurant Group; Keith Fuller, Root 174; Curtis Gamble, Station; Andrew Garbarino, Twisted Frenchman; Dustin Gardner, Soba (and currently Casbah); Nate Hobart, Morcilla; Trevett Hooper, Legume; Jessica Lewis, Carota Cafe/Smallman Galley; Brian Pekarcik, Spoon; Kate Romane, e2; Justin Severino, Cure/Morcilla; Derek Stevens, formerly of Eleven (slated to open Union Standard later this year); Csilla Thackray, The Vandal; Rafael Vencino, Aubergine Bistro/Smallman Galley; Jacqueline Wardle, Josephine’s Toast/Smallman Galley; Wei Zhu, Chengdu Gourmet
 

Salt of the Earth in Garfield shuttered on July 30 after a five-year run. The restaurant, a project of original Executive Chef Kevin Sousa and owners Doug and Liza Cruze, marked a turning point in Pittsburgh dining when it opened in September 2010.

Sousa’s forward-thinking, modernist menus at the time were groundbreaking for Pittsburgh. His restaurant was at the vanguard of a new style of destination-dining, contemporary restaurants that focused more on sourcing and creativity than on pleasing a white-tablecloth crowd. Service, while still crisp and efficient, became more relaxed. 

When Sousa moved on to other projects, Salt kept the avant-garde spirit but also loosened up to include a wild late-night menu that spurred the creation of the much-missed Salt burger and the first previews of what would become Chad Townsend’s Millie’s Homemade Ice Cream (Townsend was Sousa’s chef de cuisine and later followed him as the restaurant’s executive chef). I revisited Salt of the Earth for my first review for Pittsburgh Magazine in January 2015, and what I found was a restaurant that still was a strong force in Pittsburgh, even if some of the early energy had faded. In the end, Salt closed not because it was falling behind any new openings but because sometimes restaurants simply run their course. 

Salt’s legacy lingers in Pittsburgh: Townsend’s ice cream parlor in Shadyside has lines around the block, closing chef Brandon Fisher is running the kitchen at the Rolling Rock Club in Ligonier and former bar manager Maggie Meskey created the bar program at tako and now is the general manager of Pork and Beans. Sousa has said he plans to open another restaurant, Superior Motors, in Braddock. The opening date has not been announced.

Given the bumper crop of outstanding restaurants that opened in Pittsburgh last year — eight of them now are among our “Best Restaurants” list — it was challenging for our independent Restaurant Review Panel to choose Pittsburgh Magazine’s Best New Restaurant for 2016. Panel members believe Morcilla stands above the rest, however, because of its blend of excellent cuisine, a terrific drinks program, stylish design and strong front-of-house service. 

Morcilla is the second restaurant from Executive Chef Justin Severino (one of our 2016 Outstanding Chefs) and Hilary Prescott Severino; the pair also operates Cure in Upper Lawrenceville. Chef de Cuisine Nate Hobart, who oversees the day-to-day operations of Morcilla’s kitchen, also is Pittsburgh Magazine’s Rising Star Chef for 2016.
 

 
(l-R) Pigs feet & cheeks croqueta , bacalo croqueta

“Everything we do goes back to the basics. Just being a good cook, being clean and organized. And then you build from there. You build ideas and concepts and dishes,” says Hobart.

Morcilla’s menu of Spanish cuisine is divided into small plates — which diners can enjoy at the front-room standing bar or in the 50-seat dining room — and platters, which are served only in the dining room.

The small plates are a mix of meats cured in-house by Hobart (plus a few imported treats, such as the decadent Jamon Iberico de Bellota), fried items such as the luscious, unctuous “pig’s feet and cheeks” croquetta, and montaditos (small sandwiches) such as beef tartare with cured egg yolk and vegetable escabeche. 
 

 
(l-R) JAMON IBERICO DE BELLOT, OYSTERS ON THE HALF-SHELL 

Severino and Hobart change their larger-format plates and platters menu with the seasons, so we suggest coming to Morcilla with an open mind — although if the whole suckling pig is on the menu, we also recommend ordering that. 

Morcilla’s drinks menu features a thoughtful and curated mix of elegant cocktails, house-made tonics and a deep selection of sherry, vermouth and gin. There also is a small but intriguing offering of funky Spanish ciders and an outstanding collection of Spanish wines to pair with your meal.

Diners should make reservations if they hope to eat inside the taverna-style dining room framed by a steeply angled wood-plank ceiling; Morcilla’s popularity means tables often are booked days or weeks in advance.  

Morcilla
Lawrenceville: 3519 Butler St.
412/652-9924, morcillapittsburgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Justin Severino
​

The biggest challenge Moss Architects faced during their redesign of Monterey Bay Fish Grotto wasn’t what to add but how to strip everything away. The end result — a sleek restaurant on Mount Washington, with postcard views of Pittsburgh — impressed our independent Restaurant Review Panel enough that it awarded the 2016 Delicious Design award to Monterey Bay.

“It was … bizarre,” says Andrew Moss, president and founder of Moss Architects, of the previous design of the space, which featured faux palm trees ensconcing the load-bearing posts and various shades of deep sea-blue carpeting and paint. 
 

“From a design-strategy point of view, it was a process of trying to simplify and remove things. Our goal was to create a clean, modern dining experience that takes a back seat to the view,” Moss says. 

It’s a stunning view. The restaurant isn’t just located atop Mount Washington but crowns a high-rise building on Grandview Avenue. Floor-to-ceiling windows reveal a breathtaking overview of Pittsburgh’s rivers, bridges, buildings and hills. “We felt that every seat should have a view. That wasn’t the case in the old restaurant,” Moss says.

The dining experience begins with a ride in the new glass-windowed elevator, with the city unfolding as the lift moves higher. Guests exit the elevator to a recessed center axis that streamlines and organizes the room before they ascend a small set of stairs to enter a white-tablecloth dining room framed with cherry-wood panels.  
 

Clear Story handled the restaurant’s new lighting design, which was crafted to create a soft, elegant experience while not distracting from city views by casting unwanted shadows or reflections on the glass windows. 

Moss and his team also transformed the space below the main dining room into an elegant cocktail lounge and a sushi bar. The bar’s low ceilings and modernist-influenced furniture are a cozy contrast to the grand elegance of the upstairs room. It’s a perfect place for a quiet drink. 

It also was a quick project; the restaurant’s owners asked for an eight-week turnaround in hopes of reopening on Valentine’s Day 2015. The buildout took slightly longer, but by early April patrons once again were enjoying the fish-forward menu — this time with an even more extraordinary view than before.  
 

This year, our independent Restaurant Review Panel has recommended 33 establishments for the Pittsburgh Magazine Best Restaurants list. We welcome a few newcomers, including Gaucho Parrilla Argentina and Eighty Acres Kitchen & Bar, and we bring back stalwarts Tessaro’s and Vivo Kitchen.

Pittsburgh dining during the past year has involved chefs honing in and getting better at what they’re doing. Chef-driven kitchens are deepening relationships with western Pennsylvania suppliers such as Penn’s Corner Farm Alliance, One Woman Farm and Jamison Farm. Small and shared plates, seasonal dishes and chef’s tasting menus all continued to increase in popularity.

With so much to consider in or near Pittsburgh, for the second year we’ve focused on restaurants close to home.

The outlook for Pittsburgh dining is rosy. Now let’s celebrate our best restaurants.
 

PHOTOS BY LAURA PETRILLA, UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED

Waygu flank steak, truffle grits, mushrooms, arugula, bosco tartufo and five-minute egg
​

[AMERICAN]  Seasonal selections and chalkboard specials are the signatures of Executive Chef/Owner Chris Bonfili’s Centre Avenue bistro. Diners have enjoyed starters such as ginger-barbecue pork lettuce wraps with crispy wontons and main courses including grilled swordfish accented by grilled lemon and smoked tomato beurre fondue in Avenue B’s comfortably elegant dining room. The Bonfili family also serves casual-yet-considered cuisine at B Gourmet in Sewickley.  $$-$$$

​Shadyside: 5501 Centre Ave.
412.683.3663; avenueb-pgh.com
Executive Chef/Owner Chris Bonfili  

Ricotta ravioli, sweet-pea purée, shiitake mushrooms, fava beans and proscuitto cotto
​

[AMERICAN]  Executive Chef Jamilka Borges runs one of the most dynamic kitchens in Pittsburgh. Downstairs in The Wine Room, diners indulge in a multiple-course meal built around seasonal produce and ethically raised meat sourced from Borges’ hyperlocal supply chain. The plates then are paired with carefully selected wine vintages. Upstairs, refined bar food is designed to partner with the innovative custom-drink bar program. On Pasta Tuesdays — a new addition this year — Co-owner Justin Steel creates an array of pasta dishes reflective of the mentorship of the late Marco Enrico. Saturday and Sunday brunch remains a must-go.  $-$$

Strip District: 2216 Penn Ave.
412.471.1900; barmarcopgh.com
Executive Chef Jamilka Borges

Dirty pasta
 

[AMERICAN]  At Butcher and the Rye, you’re enticed to think on a grand scale. The downstairs bar is built around a towering wall of whiskey; with more than 600 American and international selections, it is among the deepest lists in the country. One bar isn’t enough for the two-time James Beard Foundation Outstanding Bar Program semi-finalist: There’s an elegant, if sometimes crowded, cocktail bar upstairs. In between the bars, guests can sit in a multilevel, whimsical dining room and feast on pan-seared seabass, Wagyu flank steak and scallops with blue-crab risotto. Desserts, such as the s’mores with brown-butter ice cream, are as decadent as the entrées. It’s a perfect recipe for elegant festivity.  $$

Downtown: 212 Sixth St.
412.391.2752; butcherandtherye.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Richard DeShantz​

The “Monster” grilled cheese with Gouda and cheddar cheeses, bacon, egg, pulled pork, tomato, caramelized onions, spinach and toasted bread with tomato-basil soup
 

[AMERICAN]  There’s something for everyone at Café io. Families out for a meal, work colleagues toasting the end of a week at the office and high-school kids on a first date all will enjoy the pleasing menu at Jeff Iovino’s neighborhood restaurant. Diners rave over the café’s grilled-cheese selection — “Monster” and “Big Bad Wolf” are packed to the brim with ingredients that move beyond the typical. Don’t miss the eponymous “Iovino” starter, tempura-fried Mozzarella with Italian sweet sausage, marinated tomatoes, basil and organic greens. If you’re looking for something more substantial, the “Main Bites” section contains everything from crispy fish tacos to open-face turkey and gravy. There’s also a “Kidz” menu for the younger diners.  $-$$

Mt. Lebanon: 300 Beverly Road
412.440.0414; cafeio.com
Executive Chef/Owner Jeff Iovino

Chocolate velvet terrine
​

[MEDITERRANEAN]  Tucked around the corner from the hubbub of the Ellsworth Avenue business district is Café Zinho, local legend Toni Pais’ funky and vibrant restaurant. Pais was a trailblazer in Pittsburgh dining; his Baum Vivant was Pittsburgh Magazine’s Restaurant of the Year for most of the 1990s. At Café Zinho, the chef’s Portuguese heritage and fine-dining flair shine in dishes including seafood stew, octopus and whole fish preparations. The combination of excellent food and festive atmosphere make this BYOB restaurant a perfect place for celebration.  $$

Shadyside: 238 Spahr St.
412.363.1500
Executive Chef/Owner Toni Pais  

PHOTO BY CHUCK BEARD

Pork chops with spring-pea risotto and garlic cream
 

[MEDITERRANEAN]  Pittsburghers love the big Burrito Restaurant Group’s Mediterranean-focused restaurant so much that it has appeared on our Best Restaurants list every year since it opened in 1995. So it’s no surprise that Executive Chef Eli Wahl and his team also run one of our five 2015 Killer Kitchens — the restaurant constantly puts out some of the best meals in town. Seasonal soups and salads make for an outstanding start to a meal or as part of one of Pittsburgh’s finest lunch combos, where those dishes are served with pasta or a sandwich. For dinner, indulge in Elysian Fields lamb, prepared in any number of ways.  $$-$$$

Shadyside: 229 S. Highland Ave.
412.661.5656; casbahpgh.com
Executive Chef Eli Wahl

Beef tartare with black garlic, celery and pickled mushrooms
 

[MEDITERRANEAN]  Executive Chef/Co-owner Justin Severino and his team — in another of our Killer Kitchens — set the standard for of-the-moment Pittsburgh with their combination of classic Mediterranean tradition and modern culinary techniques. Begin with a salumi plate; the selection of house-cured meats isn’t just the best in Pittsburgh — it is among the best anywhere in the country. On the fresh side, try a crudo; whether it’s from the land or the sea, it’ll be a balanced blend of raw bliss. The wine list at Cure is top-notch, and cocktail chef Colin Anderson’s cocktails are geared to pair with the cuisine. Severino and crew will open Morcilla, a Spanish-style restaurant, later this year in Lower Lawrenceville.  $$-$$$

Lawrenceville: 5336 Butler St.
412.252.2595; curepittsburgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Justin Severino

Pappardelle al Coniglio
 

[ITALIAN]  The Olive Garden might have crafted the slogan “When you’re here you’re family,” but it’s better passed on to a place that really makes you feel that way. Chef/Owner Michele Savoia blends seasonal delights and Sicilian classics to create what many locals consider their favorite neighborhood restaurant, even if they don’t live in the South Side. Savoia is meticulous in finding fresh seafood, so be sure to find out what the daily specials include. For the best experience, share a plate of antipasta with your friends and then dive into a plate or two of pasta or one of the daily specials. The predominantly Italian-only wine program at Dish is outstanding, and there’s also a deep selection of apéritifs and digestifs to bookend the meal.  $$-$$$

South Side: 128 S. 17th St.
412.390.2012; dishosteria.com
Chef/Owner Michele Savoia

PHOTO BY CHUCK BEARD

Gorgonzola mess appetizer
 

[MEDITERRANEAN]  E2’s slogan, “Bring Your Bottle. Bring Your Mess,” is indicative of the hospitality you’ll find at this Highland Park favorite. The monthly Sunday Sauce series is an ideal way to spend an uproarious evening: Red-sauce Italian food centers an experience that will make you feel like family, even if half of the people you dined with started out as strangers. Brunch is one of the most popular Sunday options in Pittsburgh, and with hot doughnuts and savory-sweet dishes such as “Mush,” it’s easy to see why. With so many special reasons to come to E2, it’s easy to overlook dinner. Don’t, because Executive Chef/Owner Kate Romane is on top of her game after traveling to Italy last year.  $-$$

Highland Park: 5904 Bryant St.
412.441.1200; e2pgh.com
Executive Chef/Owner Kate Romane

Scottish salmon
 

[AMERICAN]  It’s all about comfort at Eighty Acres Kitchen & Bar. Pappardelle is cooked al dente and mixed with a rich pork and veal Bolognese. If you’re looking for something to really fill you up, diners loved Executive Chef/Owner Don Winkie’s red wine-braised Jamison Farm lamb shank. Service at Eighty Acres is warm and quick to apply the little touches that make you feel special. For example, if the staff knows you’re going to share a salad, it will be delivered already neatly divided. Speaking of salads, it’s worth getting the excellent roasted beet salad just for the perfectly fried ball of goat cheese.  $-$$

Plum: 1910 New Texas Road
724.519.7304; eightyacreskitchen.com
Executive Chef/Owner Don Winkie

Pan-roasted Amish chicken breast with braised chicken-thigh risotto
 

[AMERICAN]  Executive Chef Derek Stevens and his Killer Kitchen team at Eleven create a menu that makes the restaurant Pittsburgh’s go-to choice for celebration dinners, power lunches and family-in-town brunches. The four-course chef’s tasting menu is a terrific way to explore the best of what the kitchen has to offer. If you’re ordering from the regular menu, there’s everything from a light and citrusy yellowtail sashimi to prime beef ribeye. Service at Eleven is attentive and engaged without being cloying.  $$-$$$

Strip District: 1150 Smallman St.
412.201.5656; elevenck.com
Executive Chef Derek Stevens  

PHOTO BY CHUCK BEARD

Pork and cabbage potstickers
 

[TAIWANESE]  Thwack! Whip! Pow! Those are just a few of the sounds you’ll hear as you pass by the Everyday Noodles’ kitchen crew creating the eponymous ribbons of noodles behind a Plexiglas wall. Those noodles are served in soups and in dishes that satisfy both adventurous and everyday appetites. Don’t miss the soup dumplings: tender packets filled with pork or crab and a spoonful of rich broth. Start your meal with a pan-fried green-onion pancake and a cold appetizer such as the five-spiced eggplant, and round out your main course with Chinese watercress or baby bok choy.  $

Squirrel Hill: 5875 Forbes Ave.
412.421.6668; everydaynoodles.net
Executive Chef Steve Chow

Asado de tira — grilled shortrib, lime, chive, onion and toast
 

[ARGENTINE]  It’s just about impossible for those with carnivorous appetites to walk past the scent of charred meat roasting over a wood fire and not be drawn into Anthony Falcon’s Strip District eatery. The original quarters might have been cramped, but patrons didn’t mind eating elbow-to-elbow with friends or strangers once they were face-deep in a Carne Con Pan — a steak sandwich with peppers, grilled onions and chimichurri — or rosemary-braised beef mixed with a lively horseradish sauce and served on a baguette. “Vaca, Cow” — steak plates — are served in small or large sizes accompanied by salad and toast; the ribeye especially is flavorful. At press time, the restaurant was moving into an adjacent building, so be on the lookout for a larger menu and more seating soon.  $

Strip District: 1607 Penn Ave.
412.709.6622; eatgaucho.com
Executive Chef Matthew Neal

Roasted carrots, fresh cheese, toasted edamame, little gem lettuce and chili vinaigrette 
 

[WORLD CUISINE]  Our 2014 Best New Restaurant keeps getting better. There’s now an expanded lunch menu and a fairly new weekend brunch service, so there’s no excuse to miss out on one of downtown’s best restaurants. The steel-cut oats (oats, poached egg, confit pork, Manchego and mostardo) are a highlight of the new brunch, especially when paired with a kimchi Bloody Mary. Dinner remains as lively as it’s ever been; chicken meatball ramen and braised goat are some mainstays. Make sure to order something from the tiki-influenced cocktail program.  $-$$

Downtown: 535 Liberty Ave.
412.281.4748; gritandgracepgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Brian Pekarcik  

Dover sole, asparagus flan, sautéed wild mushrooms, fava beans, almond beurre noisette, bull’s blood microgreens
 

[AMERICAN]  If you’re looking for elegant, comfortable continuity, there’s no better place to be than Hyeholde, a 78-year-old stalwart of Pittsburgh dining. Menu favorites have included crab cakes, pan-seared trout and pine nut-crusted elk. If you’re feeling festive, make a reservation at least 48 hours in advance to sit at the chef’s table for a multiple-course extravaganza. As an added bonus, you’ll be experiencing all of this in a building that resembles a castle, and that’s always fun. Dale Miller recently replaced former Executive Chef Jim Brinkman.  $$-$$$

Moon Township: 1516 Coraopolis Heights Road
412.264.3116; hyeholde.com
Executive Chef Dale Miller

PHOTO BY CHUCK BEARD
 

Almond-crusted Chilean seabass with mandarin-orange beurre blanc and wildberry marmalade
 

[ITALIAN-AMERICAN]  Joseph Tambellini Restaurant is a welcome throwback to the era when going out to dinner was a special occasion and you were encouraged to get a little dressed up. So it’s no surprise that service is outstanding at this Italian-American restaurant where “red sauce” and “white tablecloth” intermingle without worry of spillage. Start with Tambellini’s popular zucchini planks and stuffed banana peppers. Both meat and seafood courses here are excellent, as is the iconic eggplant Parmesan. The restaurant’s extraordinary wine list is both deep and reasonably priced.  $$-$$$

Highland Park: 5701 Bryant St.
412.665.9000; josephtambellini.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Joseph Tambellini

PHOTO BY CHUCK BEARD

Fried chicken
 

[LATIN/CARIBBEAN]  Kaya, one of the longest-standing restaurants on the list, is synonymous with fun. Kayafest, the annual street festival thrown by the restaurant, is the city’s unofficial summertime kick-off party. The fish tacos, topped with spicy crème fraîche and packed with cooling cabbage slaw and avocado, rank among the top tacos in Pittsburgh. Fried Chicken Night, a Thursday staple since fall 2010, is a joyous celebration of poultry. Kaya also is one of the most vegetarian- and vegan-friendly restaurants in Pittsburgh; it’s easy for non-carnivores to find something to enjoy on the main menu. The monthly vegetarian tasting menu affords Executive Chef Benjamin Sloan a chance to demonstrate that contemporary vegetarian cuisine is every bit as satisfying as meat-filled tastings.  $-$$

STRIP DISTRICT: 2000 Smallman St.
412.261.6565; bigburrito.com/kaya
Executive Chef Benjamin Sloan

Mulberry sorbet
 

[AMERICAN]  Legume, one of our five Killer Kitchens, is a perfect blend of classic bistro style and contemporary farm-to-table philosophy. Western Pennsylvania’s four distinct seasons are reflected by a rotation of dishes that highlight locally raised produce such as tomatoes and eggplants served fresh from the field in August (and then perfectly preserved in March). Look for more Eastern European dishes on the Legume menu in the next year as Executive Chef/Co-owner Hooper starts to prepare for his next restaurant, Dacha. Zurek, a sourdough soup inspired by his winter trip to Poland, was a hit. Weekday lunch at Legume is one of the best deals in town.  $$

Oakland: 214 N. Craig St.
412.621.2700; legumebistro.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Trevett Hooper  

Devils on horseback
 

[AMERICAN]  Pittsburgh sports stars, visiting celebrities and downtown diners all agree that Meat & Potatoes is the place to be for a big night out. Executive Chef/Co-owner Richard DeShantz has had plenty to celebrate, too, because in the last year, he’s been featured on quite a few local and national food shows — plus, he and business partner Tolga Sevdik opened täkō in late April next door to Butcher and the Rye. Hunky cuts of beef are first on the agenda here, but you also should make a point to enjoy creative seafood creations such as the salmon with black rice, kimchi and Korean hot sauce. If you’re a weekday reveler, the Monday Nightcap — which doesn’t even start till 10 p.m. — is an uproarious mix of food and drink specials set to a live DJ soundtrack.  $-$$

Downtown: 649 Penn Ave.
412.325.7007; meatandpotatoespgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Richard DeShantz

Chipotle and cheddar spoonbread with blue-crab cream
 

[AMERICAN]  Nine on Nine is a top spot for a pre-theater or pre-concert meal downtown. The three-course tasting menu includes soup or salad, entrée and dessert and promises to have you in your seats — and pleasantly full — before the curtain rises. For large groups of diners who have a little extra time, the three- or four-course “Sit Down Banquet” is a marvelous way to enjoy Executive Chef Lee Corbett’s handiwork. If you’re looking for a snack and a drink in an elegant atmosphere, sit at Bar Nine and order a hangar-steak taco.  $$-$$$$

Downtown: 900 Penn Ave.
412.338.6463; nineonninepgh.com
Executive Chef Lee Corbett

Sushi offerings, including Flower Roll, Pretty Girl Roll and tuna, salmon and yellowtail nigiri
 

[SEAFOOD]  The owners of Penn Avenue Fish Co. last year expanded the Strip District space and the bare-bones dining room. This is one of Pittsburgh’s most exciting places for lunch. Watch the city’s premier fishmongers cut to order the catch of the day while enjoying an assortment of classic fish sandwiches, fish tacos and mussels. Good sushi is hard to come by in Pittsburgh, but they do it right here; your best bet is to ask your server what’s fresh and take it from there. Extended weekday and Saturday hours mean that you also can enjoy an early fish-focused dinner in the Strip.  $-$$$

Strip District: 2208 Penn Ave.
412.434.7200; pennavefishcompany.com
Co-owners Henry Dewey and Angela Earley

PHOTO BY CHUCK BEARD

Asparagus and English-pea risotto with pancetta and mint pesto
 

[ITALIAN]  Lawrenceville might be developing at a rapid clip, but Piccolo Forno is a Butler Street trailblazer that’s now looked at as a stalwart of local dining. The continuity of tradition extends to the menu, which largely is made up of northern Italian classics such as Prosciutto e Rucola pizza and Paccheri con Sugo di Cingiale — dishes that reflect owner Domenic Branduzzi’s Tuscan heritage. Piccolo Forno often is so popular that there’s a long wait for tables. In the past, you’d have to stand outside or go to a nearby bar until it was your turn to sit. Now, Branduzzi’s neighboring Grapperia — a grappa and amari bar — is the perfect place to whet your appetite while you wait.  $-$$

Lawrenceville: 3801 Butler St.
412.622.0111; piccolo-forno.com
Executive Chef Galen Blyth

Braised octopus, romesco, olive, pickled potato, chorizo and white bean
 

[MODERN AMERICAN]  With each passing year, Root 174’s Executive Chef/Co-owner Keith Fuller gets increasingly adventurous in culinary curiosity. In the early years, crispy, glazed Brussels sprouts were a main draw, and though they’re still on the menu — and fantastic — dishes such as heart sausage or duck tongues now set Root 174 apart from other Pittsburgh eateries. For less daring eaters, Fuller coaxes fantastic flavor from everyday items. The cauliflower soup with purple carrot purée and toasted hazelnuts is comfortable yet exciting. Vegetarians and vegans take note: Fuller might be a master of meat manipulation, but you won’t feel forgotten here. Dishes including the vegan “meatloaf” (green lentils, mushrooms, yams, turnips and apple soy sauce) never are throwaways.  $$

Regent Square: 1113 S. Braddock Ave.
412.243.4348; root174.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Keith Fuller

Carrot salad with berbere, radish, goat's milk yogurt and kale 
 

Editor's Note: Salt of the Earth Closed Aug. 1, 2015
​[MODERN AMERICAN]  There have been a lot of changes at Salt of the Earth over the past year. The (in)famous chalkboard menu wall now also serves as a canvas for local artists. Chefs are dressed in chef coats, not T-shirts. There’s bread service. One thing remains constant: The food is outstanding. Executive Chef Brandon Fisher now runs Salt’s kitchen, and he and his Killer Kitchen crew mix classic thinking and modernist technique to create menus that manage to be daring yet comforting at the same time. Well, two things remain constant: The outstanding burger, once a late-night menu indulgence, now is a staple on the daily menu. There is a perfectly curated wine list, a small selection of beer picked to complement the daily menu and an outstanding bar program, too.  $$

Garfield: 5523 Penn Ave.
412.441.7258; saltpgh.com
Executive Chef Brandon Fisher

Prosciutto-wrapped salmon with eggplant caponata and arugula salad
 

[ITALIAN]  Although Co-owner/Executive Chef/Managing Partner Matthew Porco’s establishment was our Best New Restaurant just two years ago, it already feels as if Sienna on the Square is a Market Square institution. Pasta plates are a specialty, and classics such as bucatini with Mozzarella-stuffed meatballs and housemade pappardelle with a delectable Bolognaise are not to be missed. Porco works with local ranchers including Serenity Hill Farms to source his meat. Sienna on the Square’s sister space, the three-tiered Sienna Mercato, is nearby and a winner of this year’s Delicious Design award.  $$

Downtown: 22 Market Square
412.281.6363; siennapgh.com
Chef de Cuisine Jason Watts  

PHOTO BY CHUCK BEARD

Sesame seared rare tuna in Korean barbecue sauce with ginger-fried rice, cucumbers and red-onion salad, kimchi and peanuts
 

[PAN-ASIAN]  Soba, big Burrito’s pan-Asian concept, has been a mainstay in the Pittsburgh dining scene for 19 years. Executive Chef Dustin Gardner now runs the kitchen after working for nearly six years as the chef de cuisine at nearby Casbah. Since taking over the kitchen last year, Gardner has added his own touches to the menu, including Korean fried-chicken buns, more sashimi choices and a chicken-crab wonton. Gardner’s skill is evident in dishes with seasonal influences — such as a springtime halibut with fiddlehead ferns, asparagus kimchi and caramelized onion.  $$-$$$

​Shadyside: 5847 Ellsworth Ave.
412.362.5656; sobapa.com
Executive Chef Dustin Gardner

Gorgonzola-blue cheese soufflé and fall orchard salad
 

[AMERICAN]  Spoon is the perfect combination of a chef-driven menu, attentive service and an outstanding beverage program. Executive Chef/Co-owner Brian Pekarcik oversees the kitchen, which features a seasonal rotation of dishes such as dayboat scallops, crispy-skin black bass and porchetta. Service at Spoon, as well as S+P Restaurant Group restaurants Willow and Grit & Grace, always is attentive and thorough. Spoon’s curated wine list is among the best in town, and its bar is a gem hidden in plain sight; it’s worth a visit to Spoon simply to enjoy the weekly bartender’s tasting menu.  $$

East Liberty: 134 S. Highland Ave.
412.362.6001; spoonpgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Brian Pekarcik

Olive oil-poached octopus, smoked potatoes, Calabrian chili aïoli and ramps
 

[ITALIAN]  Executive Chef/Co-owner Stephen Felder’s restaurant is a celebration of Italian cookery. Monthly Sunday suppers highlight the bounty of every season, and every spring, food lovers anticipate his preparation of Le Virtu, the impossibly complex 49-ingredient soup that marks the transition from winter storage eating into the bounty of the growing season; it is offered only three days per year. For the rest of the year, enjoy perfectly prepared, straightforward cuisine in the South Side dining room. You’ll be forgiven if you temporarily forget that you’re still in Pittsburgh.  $$

South Side: 2104 E. Carson St.
412.586.4738; stagionipgh.com
Executive Chef/Co-owner Stephen Felder

Tender's bar staff has served cocktails including the Raspberry Gin Lemonade, Old Pal and Fresh Strawberry Fix.
 

[AMERICAN]  Tender was selected for the Best Restaurants list in large part because of the strong vision and execution of former Executive Chef Brian Little. Ownership has decided to move from Little’s modernist cuisine to focus on refined, contemporary bar food under the direction of former sous chef Steven Snyder. Snyder is a talent in his own right, and dishes such as pulled pork with slaw and house-pickled carrots are likely to please drinkers at a bar that remains one of the very best in the city.  $-$$

Lawrenceville: 4300 Butler St.
412.402.9522; tenderpgh.com
Executive Chef Steven Snyder

Gourmet burger with vegetable kabob
 

[BURGERS/AMERICAN]  The smell of wood smoke wafting down Liberty Avenue is a beacon for burger lovers. Every day, butcher Dominic Piccola grinds a beef chuck for the restaurant’s famous flame-grilled hamburgers. While the regular bacon cheeseburger is great, order it in the form of a breakfast burger with a fried egg on top to make it transcendent. On Thursday nights, diners can indulge in quarter- and half-racks of beef or pork ribs (or make it a combo) as a break from their burger delights. Servers at Tessaro’s mingle the crisp professionalism of a white tablecloth restaurant with the friendly feel of a neighborhood diner. Be on the lookout for expanded indoor seating and an outdoor patio.  $

Bloomfield: 4601 Liberty Ave.
412.682.6809; tessaros.com
Owner The Harrington Family;
Chief Grill Cook Courtney McFarlane

Mr. Shu with rock shrimp

[JAPANESE]  The best way to get the full Umi experience is to sit at the sushi bar and order omakase. Do that, and Executive Chef Mr. Shu will prepare a tasting menu of either seven or 11 courses that will leave you happy. You’ll be impressed by his array of tasty dishes, all prepared and delivered with epic efficiency. There’s a terrific menu of raw and cooked dishes available for guests who sit in the main dining room. Umi is immensely popular with Pittsburgh’s top athletes and local celebrities.  $-$$$$

SHADYSIDE: 5849 Ellsworth Ave.
412.362.6198; bigburrito.com/umi
Executive Chef Mr. Shu  

Grilled octopus, matcha aïoli, black-ginger quinoa, ramps and togarashi
 

[AMERICAN/MEDITERRANEAN]  Vivo Kitchen in the heart of downtown Sewickley is a popular favorite for residents of the borough as well as city-dwellers looking for a short trip out of town for an evening. The family-run restaurant is warm and cheerful. During the growing season, the DiBattista vegetable garden — overseen by co-owner Lori DiBattista, who also is a gracious presence in the Vivo dining room — is put into use in the kitchen. Dishes such as whole branzino with olive oil and lemon show off Chef/Co-owner Sabatino “Sam” DiBattista’s Italian heritage.  $$-$$$

Sewickley: 432 Beaver St.
412/259-8945; vivokitchen.com
Chef/Co-owner Sabatino “Sam” DiBattista

Gloria Fortunato with pan-seared scallops with bucatini
 

[MEDITERRANEAN]  Even though there’s an influx of new establishments in neighborhoods including downtown and Lawrenceville, it’s worth taking a short drive to one of Pittsburgh’s top destination restaurants, located in the South Hills. At Wild Rosemary, guests make reservations weeks in advance for a chance to eat at the 28-seat BYOB bistro. Chef/Co-owner Gloria Fortunato’s menu changes every three weeks and always is a reflection of the season. The tagline on the menu — “Good Things + Patience. Yep.” — is great.  $$$-$$$$

Upper St. Clair: 1469 Bower Hill Road
412.221.1232; wildrosemary.com
Chef/Co-owner Gloria Fortunato

​

PHOTOS BY LAURA PETRILLA

Front, left to right: Joshua Hicks, assistant butcher; Matt Owens, line cook; Jessica George, sous chef. Back, left to right: Douglas Bowers, dishwasher; Andy Gartside, line cook; David Johns, sous chef; Christopher Shuplock, line cook; Kevin Brown, line cook; Tyler Mossman, head butcher; Tim Majarian, line cook; Thomas Lonardo, sous chef; Elliot Pople, line cook; Devalle Bennett, dishwasher; Devin Tucker, line cook; Beautia Dew, pastry cook; Amanda Barbano, pastry chef. 
Inset: Trevett Hooper, Executive Chef/Co-owner. Not pictured: Megan Fenell, line cook; John Locke, dishwasher; Elliott Townsend, sous chef
 

Legume

By 1:30 in the afternoon, the bright kitchen at Legume in Oakland is abuzz with the sounds of knives cleaving through goat shanks, house-blend hamburgers sizzling on the stove and carrots chopped rat-a-tat-tat.

Action slows while Executive Chef/Co-owner Trevett Hooper gives his team of sous chefs and line cooks the rundown for the day. He’s been here since the morning, prepping for the day alongside pastry chef Amanda Barbano, sous chef Jessica George and her lunch team. The rest of the brigade came in a few hours later, earlier than a traditional call for evening chefs. Hooper says he believes that the more prep work each chef does for his or her station, the more he or she will be invested in contributing to a top-notch restaurant.

“This place attracts people who are interested, dedicated and curious about what they are doing. My hope is that the more engaged they are the more they want to learn, and the more they want to learn, the more they want to give to the restaurant,” Hooper says.

He gives a lot of the credit for Legume’s consistency to the team he’s built over the past seven years. For example, evening sous chef David Johns translates Hooper’s broad vision into specific platings.

“My strength, in terms of process, is much more about the big picture. David’s strength is looking at things up close [and] putting the touches on it. He’s able to take what I do and make it better,” he says.

Downstairs, Hooper’s quest to use whole animals sourced directly from local ranchers is interpreted by lead butcher Tyler Mossman. Mossman also works alongside Hooper preparing vegetables for the restaurant’s ambitious fermentation program.

During the growing season, when produce rolls in from Pittsburgh-area farms, it’s all hands on deck for canning and preserving, so Pennsylvania produce still can be used during the colder months.

“We have to keep it interesting for our chefs to work here,” Hooper says.
 

Left to right: Nate Hobart, chef de cuisine (will move to Morcilla); Aaron Hoskins, chef de cuisine (incoming); Justin Severino, Executive Chef/Co-owner; Zachary Behm, sous chef; Max Scribner, line cook; Connor Mabon, prep cook; Michael Hoffman, garde manger Not pictured: Colin Anderson, cocktail chef
 

Cure

"​A huge part of why I opened a place with this few seats is that I wanted to have a relationship with everybody [who] works in the kitchen,” says Cure Executive Chef/Co-owner Justin Severino.

Glance over at the open kitchen from any of the 44 seats, and it’s clear that the chefs working with Severino are a tight-knit crew. There is a resonant energy of cohesion and commitment in Cure’s kitchen while the chefs spend hours together prepping dishes such as squid-ink and leek-ash gnudi with Jamison Farm lamb-heart Bolognaise before service starts at 5 p.m.

“A lot of new cooks want to be a big-time chef, but they’re not willing to do what it takes to get there. People that we hire to work here have to be willing to put in the work, or they won’t work out,” Severino says.

Chef de cuisine Nate Hobart started working with Severino when he was just 17; he’ll soon be chef de cuisine at Severino’s new restaurant, Morcilla. Aaron Hoskins, formerly of The Rogue Gentlemen in Richmond, Va., will step in as chef de cuisine of Cure.

“I knew Nate was going to be a great chef one day,” Severino says. “If I put my time and energy into working with him, he’d get a lot out of it, and I’d have someone on my team who could grow into someone I’d work with for a really long time.”

​Severino says that he’s determined to keep Cure moving on an upward trajectory. Sometimes the changes he makes are noticeable, and sometimes they’re small. The restaurant opened with second-hand kitchen equipment and cheap flatware. But every year Severino and his wife, Hilary Prescott Severino, make improvements; for example, they’ve installed a fancy new “space oven,” a larger space for the restaurant’s famous charcuterie program and, this year, a much-expanded and upgraded kitchen.

More than anything, Severino says that instead of an old-school generalissimo-based approach to kitchen management, his custom of showing respect to his staff is what has helped Cure to gain national attention.

“Don’t manage people with fear and stress,” he says. “Hold yourself accountable for what happens. Be present, both physically and mentally.”
 

Left to right: Rob Livingston, line cook; Terrill Orr, line cook; Adam To, sous chef; Brandon Fisher, Executive Chef; Danielle Felix, line cook; Gary Owens, line cook
Not pictured: Eddie Byas, dishwasher
 

Salt of the Earth

Executive Chef Brandon Fisher, sous chef Adam To and their crew of four line cooks work in an open kitchen to keep Salt of the Earth one of the most interesting restaurants in the city.

“We want to make sure people who come here for new dishes can always get that but also that people feel comfortable even if they’re not adventurous diners,” says Fisher.

Those new dishes often begin during Fisher and To’s weekly planning sessions.

“On Monday mornings, chef and I will sit down together and brainstorm ideas. We’ll go over the menu, we’ll look at cookbooks and we’ll talk about what’s in season,” To says.

There are a few menu templates such as “Soup” and “Sashimi” that change with the seasons. The two chefs also will hear from the line cooks about dishes that are close to being on the menu but are not quite working as intended. Fisher and To are not afraid to make adjustments.

“That kind of feedback helps us to make the changes we need to make,” says Fisher.

For example, a pork dish with both chop and belly took a few iterations to get just right. Fisher and To went back and forth about what was on the plate, and then they got feedback from the rest of the team. Eventually they turned an herb component into an oil and modified couscous with soffrito to add depth of flavor. The dish became a hit.

For To, the base criterion for what makes Salt popular is simple: “When I look at our menu, I want to see that it’s a restaurant that I’d also be excited to eat at,” he says.

The only thing that’s sacred is The Burger, a leftover from the restaurant’s now-ended late-night menu. “That’s not going anywhere,” says Fisher.
 

 
Left photo (left to right): Selena Orkwis, line cook; Jeff Shannon, line cook; Ben McKinney, line cook; Jamar McCray, line cook; Michael Head, line cook
Right photo (left to right): Eli Wahl, Executive Chef; Dan Okren, line cook; Rashad Grant, prep cook; Chelsea Schnuerle, pastry cook; Tim Kearns, sous chef
Not pictured: Kelly Debor, pastry chef; Joshua Hawkins, dishwasher/prep cook; Jack Martin, sous chef; Alex Mellon, dishwasher/prep cook; Alvaro Romero Moreno, line cook; Nicodemus Newman, dishwasher/prep cook; Nate Prough, line cook; Samira Seibaa, pastry assistant; David Simmons, dishwasher/prep cook; Marty Sons, sous chef; Marcus Taylor, dishwasher/prep cook
 

Casbah

Eli Wahl, executive chef of Casbah in Shadyside, says that his kitchen’s reputation for consistent excellence over the years starts with a straightforward recipe.

“I have good people working here,” he says.

Wahl oversees a staff of 20 sous chefs, pastry chefs, line cooks and dishwashers. On any given night, line cooks are working at four stations. The garde manger preps salads, works the fryer and warms items. The grill cook works the grill and warms lamb in the ever-enticing “Shank Tank.” The sauté cook finishes pasta, whitefish and gnudi. At the middle station, sets are prepared for the grill cook, checks are run and appetizers are finished.

Wahl says his three sous chefs all have complementary strengths that help to create a system of cohesion before and during service.

Tim Kearns rose through the Casbah ranks and is able to run just about any part of the operation. “He’s the one that’s worked here as a cook the longest. He’s worked all the stations. He’s so strong,” Wahl says.

Marty Sons is full of ambition and helps to keep systems in place. “When he was a cook, we trusted him with the keys,” says Wahl. “He’d get here at 7 a.m. because he was so committed.”

Jack Martin adds an important outside voice to the kitchen brigade. “He came here with a bunch of experience. He’s a really good cook,” Wahl says.

Hardworking dishwashers are the unsung heroes of most restaurant kitchens — even more so at Casbah, where they also handle a good chunk of the restaurant’s prep work, covering everything from stemming Swiss chard to popping peas from their pods. “They’re essential to what we do here,” says Wahl.

Prep cook Rashad Grant started as a dishwasher and now is responsible for making sure the walk-in refrigerator is stocked, the bones are roasted and the stocks are moving for everything to be ready for the next day.

“We have great systems in place here,” Wahl says. “They work.”
 

Left to right: Melanie Krawiec, sous chef; Michael Taylor, sous chef; Bethany Zozula, executive sous chef; Derek Stevens, Executive Chef; Cindy Ambrocio, line cook; Melissa Fritz, line cook; Deontai Holloman, line cook; Matthew Taylor, prep cook; Rosa Betzaida, prep cook; Brendon McMahon, line cook; Will Marrow, bread baker; Nicole Richman, bread baker (front); Michael Shephard, line cook; Julie Martin, pastry chef; Ericka Kulan, pastry cook; Stephanie Davis, line cook; David Kirk, line cook; Paul Murphy, dishwasher; Shane Lee, dishwasher; Juan Valencia, line cook.  Not pictured: Jasmine Blackshear, line cook; Gage Brady, dishwasher; Justin Crawford, line cook; Bahati Muya, dishwasher
 

Eleven Contemporary Kitchen

Around 9 a.m., the kitchen at Eleven in the Strip gets moving. Executive Chef Derek Stevens or executive sous chef Bethany Zozula check the huge dry-erase board outside the refurbished closet that Stevens calls his office. Once the master list of stations, prep list, orders and butchery projects is updated, the day begins.

It takes a strong hand to run a brigade as large as the team at Eleven. Stevens, who opened the restaurant in 2004 as executive sous chef, is the right person to do it. “I have high expectations of people,” he says.

That begins with Zozula, who started as a cook and over the years has taken on more responsibility for the daily rhythm of the restaurant.

“She knows this kitchen inside out,” Stevens says.

Shortly after Stevens and/or Zozula start their day, prep cooks Rosa Betzaida and Matthew Taylor arrive. Betzaida started at Eleven as a dishwasher shortly after the restaurant opened; now she makes fresh pasta, crab cakes and just about anything else Stevens throws her way.

Taylor is the “utility guy,” says Stevens. He preps vegetables, strains stocks and makes soups. He’s also responsible for the staff meal — a big deal at Eleven, which has a back-of-house staff of about 20. Taylor says that Taco Tuesdays especially are popular.

Line cooks at Eleven are trained to specialize on specific stations, but management also thinks it’s important for them to learn as much as they can about how the kitchen operates. To that end, when it’s a little bit slower, they’re rotated to train on a new station.

It’s helpful that the kitchen crew largely has been stable for the past few years. Stevens says that stability in a large part comes from a change he made in his own management style: Instead of micromanaging everything, he says, “I’ve come to realize over the years that it’s important to trust people to do their job.”

The owners of Sienna Mercato had ambitious plans for their three-restaurant concept when they secured a long term lease on the old Trombino Piano Gallerie building downtown.

“We wanted to make each floor different yet make sure there was some kind of continuity between the three,” says co-owner Susan Certo, who designed the space with Co-owner Tom Certo, Co-owner/Front-of-House Manager Michael McCoy and Co-owner/Executive Chef/Managing Partner Matthew Porco. Architect Doug Sipp documented the owners’ design concepts.
 

Several key design elements tie together the restaurants, which debuted months apart in 2014. First, eyes are drawn on all three floors to exposed, worn red brick. Steel runs throughout; the original mighty beams frame the ceilings of the first two floors and the bar on the third.

Ghost signs, graphic reminders of things no longer there, are a device of continuity and distinction. Each restaurant is identified by a representative logo: Emporio’s name is scripted inside a meatball, Mezzo inside a pig and Il Tetto inside the top of a beer glass.
​

Emporio is the most casual of the three eateries. “It has an industrial feel,” says Certo. Exposed steel beams are the most prominent feature here, mirrored below by the light aluminum chairs. The glass garage door that opens to Penn Avenue creates an airy feel.
 

Mezzo, on the center floor, is the most refined of the three eateries. Chalk art by Brooklyn-based Two Arms flows over the marble bar, the wood-fired pizza oven and the high-ceilinged dining room. Heavy, distressed white and olive-green chairs and custom tables, both hand-built by Old Barn Star in Lancaster, Pa., combine with the faded goldenrod banquettes to craft a fancy farmhouse feel. Little touches — such as the cow-scene black-and-white wallpaper — demonstrate a fine attention to detail.
 

Il Tetto, with its sweeping city vista, tops the building. “We didn’t want to do too much on this level because the view speaks for itself,” says Certo. Still, it’s hard to miss the Italian-influenced steel streetlights, the retractable roof — which looks like a greenhouse during the colder months — and the massive black walnut bar.

​Certo and the rest of Sienna Mercato’s owners are to be commended for completing this ambitious project. Each restaurant merits commendation for its design; together they are one of the most impressive dining spaces in the city.

DOWNTOWN: 942 Penn Ave.
412/281-2810; siennapgh.com

When architect and designer Teresa Bucco started thinking about how she and her team would design Altius, which opened in the old Georgetown Inn space in 2014, she knew she had an opportunity to turn a metaphoric dining scene into a tangible vision.

“The views are spectacular,” she says. “How do you approach design to maximize those views?” The answer was to strip down the interior to its studs and start from scratch. “Once we started opening it up, we just kept going.”
 

The contemporary American restaurant is inviting, grand and airy. Gone are boxed rooms and closed spaces that previously obstructed some of the views; load-bearing walls were reconfigured to maximize every inch of available space. Now, as the saying goes, there’s not a bad seat in the house.
 

The interior is a sleek, modern space that draws all eyes to the grand vista overlooking the city. Turn your swivel chair toward the promenade of windows and immerse yourself in the beauty of Pittsburgh. It’s stunning. Slate gray is the main color used throughout Altius, but Bucco added an ingenious twist in the scheme to enhance the energy of the room.

"The materials you touch are warm,” she says.

For example, the chairs are leather and the tabletops walnut. National Woodwork in Windgap fabricated the casework for the sets.
 

Even the Grandview Avenue exterior was modified to enhance the space. Bucco says she believes restaurants should connect with the street, but because the views from Altius are opposite the street, she instead put large windows on the side of the building to maximize the scenery. On the street side, she added a series of blue lightboxes to create the illusion of windows and a large column window near the entrance that’s angled so that visitors can see straight through the building.

It’s worth a trip to Mount Washington to enjoy this modern space peppered with warm accents, especially when that space frames the best view of Pittsburgh in Pittsburgh.

Mount Washington: 1230 Grandview Ave.
412/904-4442; altiuspgh.com

Every Wednesday through Saturday night The Wine Room at Bar Marco hosts a special event, where Executive Chef Jamilka Borges prepares tasting menus that are beautiful reflections of her creativity. Her menu design begins with weather, but it’s not dictated strictly by time or temperature.

“I hate using the word ‘seasonal’ because there are a lot of things I do in The Wine Room [to] fit my mood not only because it’s in season. So in spring, you’ll see lighter dishes and in the winter heavier ones like braises, but if I get into something, like, say, making gnocchi, you’ll also see variations on that for awhile,” she says.

Each course is paired with a wine that often is biodynamic, natural or experimental in style. Dominic Fiore, who brings a wealth of experience from working at Daniel and Betony in New York, is the wine director.

“It’s exciting because it’s a conversation between the two of us,” says Borges, who debuted The Wine Room in February 2014 with original wine director Sarah Thomas.

What’s nearly as wonderful as the food and wine is the company you’ll keep during the 90-minute dining experience. Because the room seats only 10 people, you can book it for your own special event or share it with other people who are bound to become new friends by the end of the evening.

Indeed, that’s part of the magic of The Wine Room at Bar Marco; it feels much more like a dinner party at which you can just show up rather than a typical restaurant experience.

STRIP DISTRICT: 2216 Penn Ave., downstairs
412/471-1900; barmarcopgh.com

Our independent Restaurant Review Panel also opted to highlight a number of special dining events this year that enhanced the city’s culinary experiences by engaging diners with memorable meals in stunning environments. Some of these dinners were one-off events that featured visiting chefs or highlighted the work of some of Pittsburgh’s finest. Other events marked the growth of what we anticipate will be longer-term fixtures on the Pittsburgh restaurant scene.
 

From Garden to Table — A Gala Tribute to Thomas Keller
June 2014 at the Duquesne Club

Famed chef Thomas Keller (Per Se, The French Laundry) was the guest of honor at an elegant evening that raised more than $300,000 to complete funding for the first phase of the Pittsburgh Botanic Garden’s ongoing conservation project. Although Pittsburgh is a city that generally enjoys celebrating in casual attire, this night was all about classy dress and fine dining.

Pittsburgh chefs Keith Coughenour (Duquesne Club), Tim Fetter (Eat’n Park Hospitality Group), Justin Severino (Cure) and Derek Stevens (Eleven) took charge of a massive kitchen brigade to deliver to those 350 well-heeled guests a three-course meal — bookended by standing hors d’oeuvres on one end and a spectacular dessert display on the other — that included a rack of Keller’s favorite Elysian Fields lamb.
 

PHOTOS BY CAMI MESA
 

The Rise of Farm Dinners
Farm dinners have become increasingly popular in recent years. Although they’re nothing new, this past year showed Pittsburgh that these events really are starting to hit their stride. And that’s terrific, because who doesn’t want to get out of the city and spend a few hours dining in a bucolic setting? Three in particular stood out among the many outstanding options.

Tara Rockacy at Churchview Farm curated a series of 17 sold-out dinners that highlighted a pantheon of Pittsburgh chefs. Justin Severino’s Italian BBQ at White Oak Farm featured many of the heroes of Pittsburgh’s Italian restaurants.

And, not to toot our own horn too much, but the Pittsburgh Magazine dinner at the Turner Family Farm melded a perfect summer evening of bluegrass music, community and family-style dining with a menu from Executive Chef Cory Hughes of Six Penn Kitchen that included roasted Jamison Farm lamb shoulder, creamed corn and mascarpone panna cotta.
 

PHOTO BY SCOTT SMATHERS
 

Friends of James Beard Benefit Dinner Honoring Toni Pais
May 2014 at The Art Institute of Pittsburgh
There are very few chefs in Pittsburgh who have achieved the acclaim and respect of Toni Pais, executive chef/owner of Café Zinho in Shadyside. The chef’s achievements were honored at a James Beard Culinary Tribute dinner at The Art Institute of Pittsburgh’s Landmark Gallery.

Pais cooked roasted tomato bisque with dill and a Portuguese wild mushroom migas as his contributions to the meal. Additionally, chef/instructors at the Art Institute contributed seven dishes of their own. Proceeds from the event went toward scholarships for culinary students at the Art Institute.
 

Photo by Hal B. Klein
 

Pennsylvania Game Dinner
November 2014 at the Bar Marco Union Hall
The Union Hall upstairs at Bar Marco hosted some terrific events in the last year, but none was as engaging as the Pennsylvania Game Dinner in November. The meal highlighted the talent of chef Adam Leonti of Vetri in Philadelphia. He teamed with an army of Pittsburgh’s best chefs for a nine-course dinner that raised $9,500 for the Food Revolution Pittsburgh Cooking Club.

Leonti did Philadelphia proud with his courses, especially the roasted pheasant and amaretti-cookie ravioli and roasted venison complemented with Testun al Foglie di Castagno, a stunning three-milk cheese from Tuscany. Pittsburgh chefs stood strong too, especially Stagioni chef Stephen Felder with his course of duck ragu with cavatelli.
 

PHOTO BY RODGER OBLEY
​

Brooklyn Brewery MASH Tour Returns to Pittsburgh
June 2014
Brooklyn Brewery loved visiting Pittsburgh in 2013 so much that it sent its chef, Andrew Gerson, and his MASH tour back to Pittsburgh for a second round of festivities. The brewery does a great job of mixing of upscale and more accessible events so that there’s something for everyone. On the higher end, there was a spectacular Slow Supper by Gerson and chef Kate Romane of E2 at the John V. Heineman Company warehouse in Lawrenceville. More accessible events included a beer and food-pairing lesson by Gerson at Marty’s Market and a “Found Footage” film festival at the Regent Square Theater.
 

Orbis Caffe’s Monthly Dinners
Once a month, things get a little foreign at Orbis Caffe in Mt. Lebanon. Owners Sonja and Grant Schutte put on a dinner series that explores the cuisines of countries throughout the world. Grant and his daughter, Holly, cook the meals, which last year included “visits” to Britain, Cambodia and Greece. At a cost of $40 per person, these BYOB events also are a great deal. “You feel like you are in someone’s home and enjoying the excitement of trying new tastes and combinations that the host has made for you to try and enjoy,” said one member of our independent Restaurant Review Panel.
 

PHOTO BY LAURA PETRILLA
 

Komen for the Cure Dinner
October 2014 at Casbah
The big Burrito Restaurant group is big on giving back to the community. In 2014, it helped to raise thousands of dollars for various organizations by hosting 58 charity events at its restaurants. Casbah in particular is a hot spot to help raise money, hosting a monthly benefit dinner for a particular cause. The Susan G. Komen for the Cure dinner was a big hit in the series that also raised money for organizations including Muriel’s Breath of Life, Ward Home and the New Hazlett Center for the Performing Arts. Highlights of the five-course dinner were cauliflower risotto and apple bread pudding. “I love those dinners. I get to have a lot of fun with the menus,” says Casbah Executive Chef Eli Wahl.

   
 Photos by Laura Petrilla

(from left) Richard DeShantz, Trevett Hooper, Justin Severino and Brian Pekarcik
​
 

Restaurants increasingly are associated with the personalities of the chef whose name is on the menu. Yet most of what we know about these chefs comes from what they serve at their restaurants and, perhaps, display on their Instagram feeds. We wanted to know a little bit more about how local chefs perceive their customers and their compatriots, as well as their overall view of Pittsburgh’s dining culture. Our solution was straightforward: Ask them.

We sent a list of 17 questions to the chefs who helm our Best Restaurants, and we received responses from 21 chefs. What was very clear is that their opinions of Pittsburgh’s dining culture are as diverse as anyone’s. Most categories didn’t have a definite winner. Chefs tended to like their own pastry chefs (if they had them) and bartenders, and they overwhelmingly chose “home” as their preferred after-work hangout.
 

   
(from left) Matthew Porco, Mr. Shu, Derek Stevens and Keith Fuller
 

While Justin Severino received the most votes — six — for Chef of the Year, 13 other restaurant chefs also received at least one vote. Cure, however, was the chefs’ top choice by a wide margin (10) for the Pittsburgh kitchen in which they would like to work for a week.

When combined, adjacent spots Legume and Butterjoint won for favorite restaurant (six), with Cure pulling in second with four votes.

Seven chefs said they believe the Pittsburgh restaurant scene could use more and better restaurants that focus on non-American cuisines such as ramen, non-Thai Southeast Asian, sushi and Mexican. Some chefs also said that Pittsburgh needed late-night dining options and a large, high-quality, year-round farmers market.
 

(from left) Chris Bonfili, Gloria Fortunato, Jamilka Borges and Kate Romane
 

One Woman Farm, Penn’s Corner Farm Alliance, Who Cooks For You Farm, Paragon and Churchview Farm all received multiple votes for favorite produce supplier, but none stood out as a clear winner.

While 13 different meat suppliers received at least one vote, local lamb produced by Jamison Farm and Elysian Fields Farm took a combined five of those votes.

We also asked chefs to share their pet peeves about customers. Answers varied, but they can be narrowed down to three main irritations: treating staff members as if they were servants and not people, faking food allergies to avoid having something in a dish and writing a bad review online instead of telling someone at the restaurant directly about displeasure with a meal.
 

Respondents

Chris Bonfili, Avenue B; Jamilka Borges, Bar Marco/The Wine Room; Domenic Branduzzi, Piccolo Forno and Grapperia; Richard DeShantz, Meat & Potatoes, Butcher and the Rye and täkō; Sabatino “Sam” DiBattista, Vivo Kitchen; Anthony Falcon, Gaucho Parrilla Argentina; Stephen Felder, Stagioni; Brandon Fisher, Salt of the Earth; Bill Fuller, big Burrito Restaurant Group; Keith Fuller, Root 174; Dustin Gardner, Soba; Trevett Hooper, Legume and Butterjoint; Brian Pekarcik, Spoon, Grit & Grace and BRGR; Matthew Porco, Sienna on the Square and Sienna Mercato; Justin Severino, Cure; Derek Stevens, Eleven Contemporary Kitchen; Kate Romane, E2; Mr. Shu, Umi Japanese Restaurant; Joseph Tambellini, Joseph Tambellini Restaurant; Eli Wahl, Casbah; Don Winkie, Eighty Acres Kitchen & Bar.
 

The Poll

* Note: Some chefs voted for more than one in certain categories, and not everyone voted in every category. Also, responses don’t correlate with the order in which chefs are listed.
 

JUSTIN SEVERINO PHOTO BY LAURA PETRILLA
 

Who is your Pittsburgh Chef of the Year?

Justin Severino, Cure  [6]
Michele Savoia, Dish Osteria & Bar  [2]
Derek Stevens, Eleven Contemporary Kitchen  [2]
Richard DeShantz, Meat & Potatoes, Butcher and the Rye and täkō
Anthony Falcon, Gaucho Parrilla Argentina
Sabatino “Sam” DiBattista, Vivo Kitchen
Dave Racicot, täkō
Leah Lizarondo, The Brazen Kitchen blogger
Trevett Hooper, Legume and Butterjoint
Brian Pekarcik, Spoon, Grit & Grace and BRGR
Rick Easton, Bread and Salt Bakery
Keith Fuller, Root 174
Bill Fuller, big Burrito Restaurant Group
Jamilka Borges, Bar Marco
Kate Romane, E2
 

What is your favorite restaurant?

Cure [4]
Legume [4]
Butterjoint [2]
Dish Osteria & Bar [3]
Eleven Contemporary Kitchen [3]
Butcher and the Rye [2]
Chengdu Gourmet
Dinette
Sesame Inn
Grit & Grace
Feng Japanese Steak Hibachi & Sushi House
Umi Japanese Restaurant
Meat & Potatoes
“Many”
 

If you could work in another Pittsburgh kitchen for a week, which one would it be?

Cure [10]
Legume [2]
Everyday Noodles [2]
Chengdu Gourmet
Bread and Salt Bakery
Vivo Kitchen
Umi Japanese Restaurant
Dinette
YinzBurgh BBQ
Penn Avenue Fish Co.
Soba
​

MAGGIE MESKEY PHOTO BY LAURA PETRILLA
 

Who is your favorite bartender?

Maggie Meskey, täko [3]
Mike Mills, formerly of Butcher and the Rye [2]
Evan Thorsen, The Livermore/The Cloakroom and Soba [2]
Will Groves, formerly of Butterjoint [2]
Shane Morrison, Acacia
“Acacia staff”
Josh Katora, Vivo Kitchen
Carrie Clayton, The Livermore
Giuseppe Capolupo, The Livermore
Sean Rosenkrans, Allegheny Wine Mixer
Deirdre Durant, Kelly’s Bar & Lounge
“Eighty Acres team”
Amanda Carto, formerly of Butterjoint
John Wabeck, Spoon
Byron Nash, Harris Grill
 

Who is the best pastry chef in Pittsburgh?

Julie Martin, Eleven [2]
“Food Glorious Food” [2]
“Gaby et Jules Patisseries et Macarons” [2]
Rick Easton, Bread and Salt Bakery 
Emily Bourdon, Soba
April Simpson, Vanilla Pastry Studio 
Annalee DePaoli, Piebird (forthcoming) 
Melanie Mills, Ali’s Marketplace
“La Gourmandine”
Shelby Ortz, Lux Artisan Chocolates
Vanessa Gangewere, Meat & Potatoes, Butcher and the Rye and täko  
Erin Ribo, Sienna Mercato
 

What new kitchen skill or technique do you want to learn this year?

Curing meats [3]
Better understanding dumplings [2]
Bread-baking [2]
Baking
Pastries
Canning in a commercial kitchen, legally
Mastering corn tortillas
CVAP (controlled vapor technology)
Overall refinement of skill
Fine tuning and expanding pasta techniques
Molecular gastronomy
Asian noodles
How to make more money
Keeping knives super-sharp at all times
Cheese-making with ancient techniques
 

WHO COOKS FOR YOU FARM PHOTO BY LAURA PETRILLA
 

Who is your favorite produce supplier?

Penn’s Corner Farm Alliance [6]
One Woman Farm [4]
Who Cooks For You Farm [3]
Paragon Foods [3]
Churchview Farm [2]
Sunfresh Food Service
Chef’s Garden
Monteverde Inc.
Garfield Community Farm
Anthony’s Original Produce
 

What’s your biggest pet peeve with customers?

Treating staff poorly [3]
Threatening or writing bad/snarky reviews on online review sites [3]
Faking food allergies [2]
No-call, no-shows for reservations [2]
Substitutions
Lack of perspective
Ordering buttered noodles for kids instead of real food
Calling chef during busy time
Customers creating their own dishes
Sending back food even though it was made exactly as described on menu
Not trying new things
Everyone wants to eat at 7 p.m.
Throwing away wooden plates
None. I love all of my customers.
 

Next: favorite after-work hangouts, inspiring ingredients, guilty pleasures, go-to take-out spots and more..

ALLEGHENY WINE MIXER PHOTO BY LAURA PETRILLA
 

Where is your favorite after-work hangout?

Home [10]
Butterjoint [3]
Allegheny Wine Mixer [2]
Kelly’s Bar & Lounge
The Livermore
Squirrel Cage (or the
Squirrel Hill Cafe)
Emporio’s bar
Round Corner Cantina
Mad Mex
Acacia
Someone Else’s Bar (in Castle Shannon)
 

What ingredient did you find most inspiring this year?

Minus 8 vinegars
Seafood, specifically oysters
Lamb ribs
Octopus
Duck
Masa
High-quality olive oil
Arugula from Churchview Farm
Bee pollen
Monkfish liver
Kimchi
Ramps
Fish marrow
Eggs
Citrus, especially Meyer lemons
and blood oranges
Fermented and dried
Iberian cayenne pepper
Burrata
Matcha
Cashew milk
Live scallops
 

What is your guilty-pleasure food?

Cheetos [2]
Chicken wings [2]
French-fry-and-butter sandwich on baguette
Chicken wings, Buffalo-style, extra-crispy, blue cheese
Rigatoni alla Scamoza from Dish Osteria and Bar
Too much of everything
Taco Bell
Potato bun split-tops with hot dogs slathered in Heinz ketchup
Beef tendon
Fish and chips plus a pint of beer from Piper’s Pub
Burrito from Chipotle
Korean food
Fried foods
Chocolate ice cream
Hot dogs
Chick-fil-A
Chocolate-covered marshmallows from IKEA
Fiori’s pizza
Milk-soaked Oreos microwaved
till warm, vanilla-bean gelato, hot fudge, walnuts
Doughnuts
 

ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM PHOTO BY RENEE ROSENSTEEL
 

Who is your favorite meat supplier?

Jamison Farm [3]
Strip District Meats [3]
Elysian Fields Farm [2]
Heritage Farm [2]
Samuels Seafood
Clarion Farms
Weiss Provisions
True World Foods
Jo-Mar Provisions
Jubilee Hilltop Ranch
Michael’s Meats
Curtze Food Service
Butcher on Butler
Serenity Hills Farm
Thoma’s Meat Market
Miller’s Meat Market
 

What’s always in your fridge?

Pickles [4]
Cheese [3]
Hot sauce [3]
Butter [3]
Eggs [2]
Kimchi [2]
Mustard [2]
Beer [2]
Pancetta
Pecorino Romano
Soffrito
Roasted garlic
Good San Marzano gravy in the freezer
Anchovies
White wine
Cured meats
Coconut water
Grapes
Kid provisions
Dr. Pepper
Rendered pig fat
Asian vegetables
Scallions
Fresh garlic
Sriracha
Fresh berries
Almond milk
Kale
Whole milk
Kefir
 

TAKO photo by hal b. klein

What is your favorite development in the Pittsburgh restaurant scene this year?

High-quality bakeries opening [2]
Growth of downtown as a dining destination [2]
Food trucks [2]
Multiple Szechuan restaurants
No clue
All of the James Beard recognition
You see a lot more Pittsburgh chefs branching out and establishing their own identity
Community events and collaborations such as the backyard BBQ and Italian BBQ
Some really great ethnic restaurants, Nak Won Garden, Chengdu Gourmet, etc.
Looking forward to täkō
412 Food Rescue
Artisanal breweries
More and more restaurants sourcing locally and presenting these ingredients with elegant simplicity
International camaraderie through social media
 

What ingredient is overused?

Pork belly [4] (Note: 3 qualified that they also love it)
Brussels sprouts [4]
Microgreens as garnish [2]
In-house charcuterie
Paper-thin radish or beet as garnish
Sriracha
Kale
Ground meat
Chipotle pepper
Ramps
Many
Pickled mustard seeds
 

SPAK BROTHERS PHOTO BY HEATHER MULL
 

Where is your go-to takeout place?

Spak Brothers [2]
Gaucho Parrilla Argentina [2]
How Lee
China Palace
Jade Grill
Sesame Inn (the North Hills location)
East End Food Co-op salad bar
Salem’s Market & Grill 
Taipei Tokyo
Korea Garden
Thai Gourmet
BRGR
Beto’s Pizza
Ramen Bar
Noodlehead
​

What is Pittsburgh’s restaurant scene missing? What would you like to see here?

Late-night dining [4]
Ramen [2]
“Ethnic” food [2]
Mexican [2]
Sushi
Better non-Thai Southeast Asian
A Derek Stevens restaurant
Casual but delicious Italian
Formal/white tablecloth dining
More of many things
Women chefs
Lounge with a DJ and good food
Better overall dining culture with better-educated diners
Large, year-round farmers market
Nerd bars
 

As we celebrate our 25th Best Restaurants edition, it is our sincere pleasure to present this year’s list of 33 Best Restaurants. We welcome some newcomers — including Butcher and the Rye, Grit & Grace, Everyday Noodles and notion — but we also recognize legendary locales, such as Casbah and Umi, which have made the cut every year since opening.

The local restaurant industry is booming; we’re happy to document the progress along the way. With so much to consider in or near Pittsburgh, the focus this year is on restaurants close to home. Spots that are a bit farther from the city — such as award-winning Lautrec at Nemacolin Woodlands Resort and Out of the Fire Café in Donegal — might not be included, but they continue to warm our hearts and please our palates, as do the following selections.

SHADYSIDE: 5501 Centre Ave.
  |  412/683-3663, AVENUEB-PGH.com

AMERICAN  |  $$-$$$  |  
Chef/Owner CHRIS BONFILI

This quiet bistro along busy Centre Avenue is a very popular lunch and dinner spot, with an apt motto of “Eat. Relax. Enjoy.” Avenue B offers seasonal fare that’s not the least bit fussy; one favorite is the Wagyu beef meatloaf. Choices that deviate from the norm include housemade falafel and molé pork belly. Fish dishes consistently are done well, and Chris Bonfili, chef/owner, generally offers a five-course tasting menu. It’s always nice to finish the meal with French-press coffee and one — or a few — of the revered desserts.

STRIP DISTRICT: 2216 Penn Ave.
  |  412/471-1900, BARMARCOPGH.com

AMERICAN  |  $$-$$$  
|  Executive Chef JAMILKA BORGES

Bar Marco is unique because of its owners’ out-of-the-box approach to running the restaurant, as well as their active involvement in addressing community food issues. During No Menu Monday events, guest chefs cook whatever inspires them; this is a great platform for budding cooks, new restaurateurs and charitable causes looking to spread the word about their mission. Bartenders use their “mental Rolodex and their own creativity” to compose whatever drink — using many housemade ingredients — suits your fancy. Executive Chef Jamilka Borges and Co-owner/Chef Justin Steel collaborate on the food offerings. The dinner menu is brief but focuses on flavorful choices; starters include dates with Manchego and bacon, and entrées change seasonally. Brunch is off-the-charts delicious, with sweet and savory choices. In the newly opened Wine Room, located downstairs, Borges and sommelier Sarah Thomas curate four- and 10-course prix-fixe tastings with wine pairings.

CRANBERRY: 20111 RT. 19 & Freedom Road  |  724/742-2333
, BRGRPGH.com
GOURMET BURGERS  |  $  |  
Executive Chef/Co-owner 
BRIAN PEKARCIK

You’ll often find a line of people waiting to eat at BRGR. Burger-patty options include dry-aged prime beef, turkey, salmon and black bean-corn falafel. Feeling hungry? Try the Button Buster, a beef burger topped with braised beef short ribs, white cheddar cheese, béarnaise sauce and crispy onions. Smith’s hot dogs, a favorite brand among locals, also are available. Enjoy one of the spiked handcrafted shakes — the salty caramel is comprised of vanilla ice cream, bourbon, caramel sauce, sea salt and vanilla bean. Happy hour extends to the weekend: Specials run Monday through Friday 5-7 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 10 p.m.-12 a.m. By popular demand, BRGR has opened a third location inside PNC Park, and it intends to put a location inside The Galleria in Mt. Lebanon. The BRGR food-truck team can be found throughout the city Wednesday through Friday and at special events around town.

DOWNTOWN: 212 Sixth St.  |  
412/391-2752, BUTCHERANDTHERYE.com

AMERICAN  |  $$  |  
Executive Chef/Co-owner RICHARD DeSHANTZ

This downtown hot spot instantly became a hit when it opened late last year. Featuring a boisterous first-floor bar and a quieter upstairs bar, Butcher boasts a bourbon collection of 350-plus bottles as well as wines, cocktails and beer, including an exclusive house brew from Church Brew Works. While upstairs, indecisive diners can peruse liquor options on an iPad, scrolling through a catalog with detailed descriptions. No wonder the place received a James Beard Foundation nomination for Outstanding Bar Program. Small- and large-plate choices include crispy pig “wing” with Thai chili sauce, five-cheese mac ‘n’ cheese and shepherd’s pie with braised beef cheeks. Each room sports its own imaginative look; eclectic design elements and items of décor — such as a giant stuffed bear, recycled doors and local art — pair well with the festive food.

SHADYSIDE: 229 S. Highland Ave.
  |  412/661-5656, BIGBURRITO.com/CASBAH

MEDITERRANEAN  |  $$-$$$  |  
Executive Chef ELI WAHL

Casbah continues to double as an East End staple and a fine-dining destination, particularly for lunch and Sunday brunch. The food exhibits a Mediterranean influence and spans all preferences, from housemade pastas to rich meat dishes to grilled scallops. Lunchtime favorites range from the jumbo lump crab salad to the roasted turkey sandwich with Manchego, pickled red onion and black-pepper bacon. Great dinner choices include the cioppino, the signature double-cut pork chop and various cuts and preparations of local Elysian Farms lamb. The mosaic-accented bar is a fun place to eat, mingle and drink, with many wines available by the glass. The signature daily bread pudding and housemade sorbets and ice creams remain flawless.

SHADYSIDE: 238 Spahr St.  |  
412/363-1500, Facebook

MEDITERRANEAN  |  $-$$  |  
Executive Chef/Owner TONI PAIS

Café Zinho is a cozy, tucked-away spot off Ellsworth Avenue that offers a comfy, intimate environment with Bohemian décor. Its European-bistro fare, with a Portuguese emphasis, reflects the background of esteemed Executive Chef/Owner Toni Pais. Top-notch features include the Portuguese mariscada, a seafood stew in a savory tomato broth, and any fish dish, including the white anchovy appetizer and the whole branzino. Appetizers and desserts all reflect a classical European approach to cuisine, with reasonable portion sizes, high-quality ingredients and strong flavor profiles.

LAWRENCEVILLE
: 5336 Butler St.  |  412/252-2595, 
CUREPITTSBURGH.com

URBAN MEDITERRANEAN  |  $$-$$$  |  
Executive Chef/Co-owner 
JUSTIN SEVERINO

Cure continues to receive praise locally and nationally — as does its Executive Chef/Co-owner Justin Severino, a 2014 James Beard Foundation nominee for Best Chef – Mid-Atlantic. Cure is dedicated to local sourcing and prides itself on maintaining good relationships with farmers. The salumi platter, which consistently receives attention from diners and critics, is a must-have, featuring housemade salami, speck and ciccioli, among other items. Supper includes meat selections, such as the pork rib roast or squab breast. Severino — who has extensive knowledge of animal butchery and prepares each offering with care — says he wants others to know that his restaurant offers more than cured meats. To that end, seasonal salads are refreshing.

SOUTH SIDE
: 128 S. 17th St.  |  412/390-2012, 
DISHOSTERIA.com

ITALIAN  |  $$-$$$
  |  Chef/Owner MICHELE SAVOIA

Dish is both classic Italian and classic Pittsburgh: Its food has a Sicilian edge, but its historic building, tucked a few blocks off East Carson Street, feels purely of this city. At the lively bar, you can get affordable Italian wines and classic cocktails. Among the appetizers, the carpaccio with arugula, Parmigiano Reggiano, lemon and extra-virgin olive oil is one of the best in town — as is the octopus. The pasta entrées are flavorful — including the classic spaghetti with calamari, shrimp, scallops, mussels and clams in a white-wine garlic sauce. The meaty, old-fashioned roasted pork stuffed with scamorza, speck and sage is served with gnocchi and broccolini.

HIGHLAND PARK: 5904 Bryant St.  |  412/441-1200
, E2PGH.com

MEDITERRANEAN  |  $-$$  |  Executive Chef/Owner 
KATE ROMANE

E2 is a small neighborhood spot featuring rustic Mediterranean cuisine and farm-sourced ingredients. There’s no doubt that the kitchen staff uses fresh produce — Executive Chef/Owner Kate Romane uses some crops sourced from Churchview Farm, where she lives with her partner. Favorite dishes include the fried polenta with goat cheese, greens and hot sausage and the simple spaghetti aglio e olio, anchovy, broccoli rabe and chilis. Brunch is wildly popular; entrées include frittatas, omelets, salads and French toast. While you wait for your main course, try the housemade doughnuts. Sunday Sauce takes place the last Sunday of each month and involves a “big, fat, family-style dinner.” You also can be the host of your own family-style “Big Table” dinner in the renovated downstairs dining space.

STRIP DISTRICT: 1150 Smallman St.  |  
412/201-5656, BIGBURRITO.com/ELEVEN

AMERICAN  |  $$-$$$  |  
Executive Chef DEREK STEVENS

Eleven remains one of Pittsburgh’s finest dining destinations. The restaurant contains several well-designed environments, including the open main dining room, the upstairs balcony and the sleek bar. The menu lists excellent seafood choices, including raw oysters and grilled fish. Meat eaters can enjoy prime beef ribeye, lamb and roasted chicken. The vibrant bar has its own tavern menu, featuring favorites that include the crabcake sandwich. Eleven offers lunch, brunch, dinner and a chef’s tasting menu; choose your fare and reserve a private dining room for your special event.

TAIWANESE  |  $
  |  Executive Chef STEVE CHOW

Veteran restaurateur Mike Chen provides the brains behind this noodle haven, which now offers delivery service. At the restaurant’s opening,
he brought chefs from Taiwan to train staffers, ensuring authenticity. Diners can watch chefs through a glass window, looking on as the pros make fresh noodles and dumplings. Top menu choices include the authentic soup dumplings — thin-skinned and filled with hot soup and small amounts of pork and/or crab — and the “dry” noodles with ground pork. New-to-Pittsburgh items include braised beef tendon, pickled jellyfish salad and the shrimp and loofah soup dumplings. Get one of the milk bubble teas, with optional additions such as lychee jelly.

DOWNTOWN: 535 Liberty Ave.
  |  412/281-4748, GRITANDGRACEPGH.com

WORLD CUISINE  |  $-$$  |  
Executive Chef/Co-owner BRIAN PEKARCIK

Grit & Grace, one of the hottest tickets in town, took honors this year in our Best New Restaurant and Delicious Design categories. Brought to us by the S + P Group, which owns Spoon and the BRGR burger joints, Grit & Grace makes shareable global cuisine. Dim sum on trays, small plates and large plates all borrow flavors from various styles, including American, Korean, Indian and Chinese. The cocktails match the food, and the sleek, narrow interior helps to make this stylish downtown spot a go-to.

MOON TOWNSHIP
: 1516 Coraopolis Heights Road  |  
412/264-3116
, HYEHOLDE.com

AMERICAN  |  $$-$$$  |  
Executive Chef JIM BRINKMAN

Local stalwart Hyeholde Restaurant has been family-owned for more than 75 years. The restaurant, housed in a “castle” amid acres of gardens, features large wooden beams, tapestries and roaring fires. Hyeholde also has been the training ground for some of Pittsburgh’s finest chefs. The cuisine for the most part is old-fashioned, with options including sherry bisque, Caesar salad, pine-nut Cervena elk, pan-seared trout and grilled filet. During warmer periods, the restaurant serves casual food on its lovely outdoor patio. Hyeholde is a perfect location for a wedding, picnic (baskets can be reserved) or other special occasion.

HIGHLAND PARK: 5701 Bryant St.
  |  412/665-9000, JOSEPHTAMBELLINI.com

ITALIAN  |  $$-$$$  |  
Executive Chef/Co-owner JOSEPH TAMBELLINI

Joseph Tambellini and his wife, Melissa, run one of the city’s few white-tablecloth restaurants; it’s quiet, elegant and known for more than just the popular meatballs. Flavorful dishes contain classic Italian elements such as tomato, garlic, lemon and Parmesan. Seafood always is well-prepared, and veal dishes are abundant — marsala, Parmesan, Romano, piccatta and scallopini are a few choices. Chef Tambellini makes a habit of chatting with diners at their tables. The restaurant houses a traditional first floor, a slightly more contemporary second floor and private party room on the top level.

STRIP DISTRICT: 
2000 Smallman St.  |  412/261-6565, 
BIGBURRITO.com/KAYA
LATIN/CARIBBEAN  |  $-$$  |  
Executive Chef BENJAMIN SLOAN

Kaya’s cuisine melds tastes from the Caribbean Islands, South America and the Pacific. The long, colorful bar always is buzzing; there’s a special focus on rums and other Mexican and Caribbean drinks. Festive, fun food options include Jamaican jerk chicken wings with chipotle cream sauce and conch fritters. The popular signature house salad is garnished with pepitas and tossed in a lime-cilantro vinaigrette. Jerked pulled-pork quesadillas go over well with many diners. Kaya is a great destination for vegetarians, offering many meatless entrées as well as prix-fixe vegetarian dinners. The fried chicken offered Thursday evenings is well-known.

OAKLAND
: 214 N. Craig St.  |  412/621-2700, 
LEGUMEBISTRO.com

AMERICAN  |  $$-$$$  |  
Executive Chef/Co-owner TREVETT HOOPER

As stated on its website, Legume’s “continually evolving menu is the result of a seven-year-long conversation between customers, growers, cooks, servers and bartenders.” The eatery’s commitment to high-quality ingredients is evident; each ingredient reflects its natural flavor, and each dish features a nice variety of vegetables, grains and meats, many of which are locally sourced. The restaurant this year added weekday lunch service and continues to serve acclaimed burgers, pierogies and more at Butterjoint, the adjacent bar/eatery that shares a kitchen with Legume.

DOWNTOWN: 649 Penn Ave.
  |  412/325-7007, MEATANDPOTATOESPGH.com

AMERICAN  |  $-$$  |  
Executive Chef/Co-owner RICHARD DeShantz

Meat & Potatoes, a dynamic gastropub, doesn’t need much of an introduction: Richard DeShantz and Tolga Sevdik opened this spot, their first restaurant together, in 2011 to immediate acclaim. Since then it’s received attention locally and nationally and has proved its staying power with approachable but refined food, such as pork-belly tacos, fish and chips, and flat-iron steak. Appetizers, including ahi taquitos, perfectly match the bar menu of barrel-aged Manhattans and Sloe Gin Fizzes, along with many other cocktails, wines and beers. Brunch has become legendary; in order to try the brisket and eggs or French toast with bananas and bacon-almond brittle, you’ll want to make a reservation weeks in advance.

DOWNTOWN: 903 Penn Ave.  |  412/471-THAI
, NICKYSTHAIKITCHEN.COM

NORTH SIDE: 856 Western Ave.  |  412/321-THAI
, NICKYSTHAIKITCHEN.COM
THAI  |  $-$$
  |  Chef/Owner RATTHASAK “NICKY” INSAWANG

Considered by many locals to be the top Thai restaurant in the ’Burgh, Nicky’s is known for fresh ingredients and clean flavors. Chef/Owner Ratthasak Insawang had run the North Side restaurant, along with a Verona site (which he later sold), for several years before opening the downtown location in 2012. The North Side spot features a lovely outdoor garden with a fountain, greenery and Thai art. The downtown site has a more sophisticated vibe but also displays vibrant Thai décor. Favorite dishes include the basil tilapia, pineapple curry and grilled beef salad with fresh mint leaves and lime. Start every meal with a few appetizers, which are perfect for sharing.

DOWNTOWN: 900 Penn Ave.
  |  412/338-6463, NINEONNINEPGH.com

AMERICAN  |  $$-$$$$  |  
Executive Chef LEE CORBETT

Nine on Nine is a quiet white-tablecloth restaurant in the heart of the Cultural District. There are many ways to enjoy this restaurant — lunch, dinner, prix-fixe dining, private-event space, weekend music and a small bar. Dinner remains the star; wonderful appetizers include cold Spanish octopus with preserved lemon, warm blue crab cream soup, wild mushroom risotto, seared fois gras and lobster mac ‘n’ cheese. Among the well-executed main courses are the steak, scallops, Amish chicken breast and the daily vegetarian offering. The three-course theater menu is served from 5-6 p.m. In contrast, the chef’s tasting menu provides eight courses, plus dessert.

EAST LIBERTY: 
128 S. Highland Ave.  |  412/361-1188
, NOTIONRESTAURANT.COM

AMERICAN  |  $$$$  |  Chef/Owner Dave Racicot

notion’s tag line is “an edible expression of creativity,” and the eatery showcases the talents of Dave Racicot, its revered chef/owner. His dishes incorporate interesting interpretations of familiar and less-familiar ingredients; the Korean-flavored tartare, for example, is served with peanuts and iceberg lettuce circles — a contemporary twist on the lettuce wrap. The menu has two prix-fixe options: a four-course menu and a chef’s tasting (as many as 11 courses). The dining room is subdued, allowing you to focus on the food. Racicot schedules informative cooking classes and collaborative dinners with other area chefs, among other events.

HIGHLAND PARK: 5801 Bryant St.
  |  412/661-3334, POINTBRUGGE.com

EUROPEAN  |  $-$$  |  
Executive Chef KEVIN HUNNINEN

Park Bruges serves one of Pittsburgh’s best roast chickens. Steamed mussels, Mediterranean seafood stew and the hamburger also are hits at this friendly neighborhood joint. Special appetizers include classic Montreal poutine, available with such toppings as brisket and cheese curds. Park Bruges often is packed during brunch service, when lines of loyal patrons regularly form outside the door as they daydream about the Liège waffles. Belgian and craft beers are available, and in pleasant weather you can sip brews outside.